Ok guys my car wont start.
Now i know the first thing to do is call RACV, i will so. But i need to leave to uni by1 at the LATEST. Of course RACV will get a call but im still gonna ask you guys.

The car simply doesnt tick over. Very sure the battery is fine, no lights were left on etc and its not that old either.
Im kind of lost on what it could be. Dad is at work, so he cant help me out either. Car doesnt even attempt to tick-over, just hear a click in the motor from the ignition.

Please help me out guys! Cheers, Andy

Could be a dead relay or fuse. Do you just hear one click when you turn the ignition or does it go tick-tick-tick?

Just one mate. Nothin else.

RACV reckon they'll be here in 30minutes anyway. Got an exam this arvo :(
But i still want the professional AMC opinion.

my car did this once when i was at the shops. came back 2 hours later and started perfect, but i still dont know whats wrong. just leave it and try it again when you have to.

Could possibly be a battery...Can never rule that out
ANd yeah check ya fuses quickly with a torch....sucks even more on a crappy day like today:cry:

(lol maybe we should of got that mechanic to check out your car)

']Could possibly be a battery...Can never rule that out
ANd yeah check ya fuses quickly with a torch....sucks even more on a crappy day like today:cry:

(lol maybe we should of got that mechanic to check out your car)

lol screw you Paul

Well ill let you all know soon. The RACV bloke will be here very soon.
Kinda glad i renewed the membership.

Yep, check all fuses quickly and then battery connections and water levels. Have a Volt meter? Stand-by voltage should be around 12.6 - 12.7 - but that doesn't really tell much if there is no amps to boost it. Disconnect battery for 10 min to reset all?

Car doesnt even attempt to tick-over, just hear a click in the motor from the ignition.
Hey Andy the exact same thing happened with my RAV4 once. It ended up being loose battery cables on the battery terminals. Tightened them up and the engine turned over as if nothing had happened.

Yep, check all fuses quickly and then battery connections and water levels. Have a Volt meter? Stand-by voltage should be around 12.6 - 12.7 - but that doesn't really tell much if there is no amps to boost it. Disconnect battery for 10 min to reset all?

I was also going to say to do this, but it really gives no indication to CCA and if its able to start, considering those multimeters only have a 10A rating

Lets hope the RACV can sort this out man:doubt:

Can you see the starter motor?
If you have someone else there, tell them to try to start the car and give the starter abit of a jab with a screwdriver. The astron starters are known to be affected by heat pretty badly (was quite warm yesterday). My TR did this and it was the starter motor, you'd come back 30 mins later and it would fire up straight away.

Can you see the starter motor?
If you have someone else there, tell them to try to start the car and give the starter abit of a jab with a screwdriver. The astron starters are known to be affected by heat pretty badly (was quite warm yesterday). My TR did this and it was the starter motor, you'd come back 30 mins later and it would fire up straight away.

Dont jab it too hard...

My old car used to have this characteristic.. I just used to tap it with the wheel brace and all was good!

Ok back now. RACV bloke came 30 secs after i last posted.

He jump started the motor. At first thought it was a dead/busted alternator, his terminal said 4.1v when it should be 14.1v.
Was writing it up, then decided to use another tester, and it said 14.1v YAY!

So i took it for a 15 minute drive. Turned the motor off, turned it back on and it worked. So not sure exactly what it was. Maybe dad left something on last night. Either way, its working now. Mind you i shate myself when he showed me the RACV price for a new alternator, $310!! But its all good..........for now....

Thanks anyway guys.

Ok back now. RACV bloke came 30 secs after i last posted.

He jump started the motor. At first thought it was a dead/busted alternator, his terminal said 4.1v when it should be 14.1v.
Was writing it up, then decided to use another tester, and it said 14.1v YAY!

So i took it for a 15 minute drive. Turned the motor off, turned it back on and it worked. So not sure exactly what it was. Maybe dad left something on last night. Either way, its working now. Mind you i shate myself when he showed me the RACV price for a new alternator, $310!! But its all good..........for now....

Thanks anyway guys.
GL for your exam dood:)

Still very weird though

Mind you i shate myself when he showed me the RACV price for a new alternator, $310!! But its all good..........for now....

$60 for a swapover alternator for a first gen... i bought one recently.

if anyone paid $310 for an alternator, they deserve it for being so stupid.

$60 for a swapover alternator for a first gen... i bought one recently.

if anyone paid $310 for an alternator, they deserve it for being so stupid.

lol i wouldnt have brought one of theirs, i was just shocked at the price....

lawls...

yeah i believe it was something starter motor related too, ie did your radio etc work fine etc also you can hear the relays moving... actually maybe not in the magna, had problems like this in the patrol, relays next to the battery...

I would almost put my money on it being just a poor connection at the battery terminals. A lot of battery cables are a poor fit on the terminals because the connectors either (a) won't go on far enough to provide a substantial contact area or (b) are too loose and don't grip the terminals even when their bolts are fully tightened.

Quite often the contact is sufficient to run your radio, instrument lights etc. but not sufficient to carry the heavy current required for the starter.

Alternatively, if your car is an auto, it sometimes pays to jiggle the transmission lever a little when you have this kind of problem in case the neutral safety switch is slightly out of adjustment and is disabling the starter.

regards
Coldamus

Can you see the starter motor?
If you have someone else there, tell them to try to start the car and give the starter abit of a jab with a screwdriver. The astron starters are known to be affected by heat pretty badly (was quite warm yesterday). My TR did this and it was the starter motor, you'd come back 30 mins later and it would fire up straight away.

Its not the starter motor itself but the solenoid that is dodgy on hot days or when driving
for a long time, stop the car and car won't start again. Its happened on my TP and on my KS. But if its the solenoids fault, there won't be any ticking/cranking sounds from the
engine bay at all.

I would almost put my money on it being just a poor connection at the battery terminals. A lot of battery cables are a poor fit on the terminals because the connectors either (a) won't go on far enough to provide a substantial contact area or (b) are too loose and don't grip the terminals even when their bolts are fully tightened.

Quite often the contact is sufficient to run your radio, instrument lights etc. but not sufficient to carry the heavy current required for the starter.

Alternatively, if your car is an auto, it sometimes pays to jiggle the transmission lever a little when you have this kind of problem in case the neutral safety switch is slightly out of adjustment and is disabling the starter.

regards
Coldamus

Sometimes if you use a little Vasolene/petrolium jelly on the terminals it can improve the conection. I think it says something about that in the user's book under the reconecting the battery section. Yeah i know it sound F***en dumb but it works.