Hi, I am pretty sure the CV joints of my TP need to be replaced. Is anyone here around sydney/parramatta that would be happy to do that for me? Or knows a good place where to do that?

Hee magna buff without a magna :), so actually, you're buff :)

Yes, I think the old ones of the TN are still OK, but they have done 210,000k so yeah, is that really worth the change over? And besides that, if I can take them out, what can I do with the rest of the car?

Do you think the wreckers would have reconditioned ones, or is this an item that is usually not reconditioned? I think the guy hit a putt-hole and broke one of the CV's. You won't notice it until driving around 90klm, then the car starts shaking and it feels different from an in-balanced wheel.

You can get reconditioned ones but I wouldn't buy from a wreckers. Besides, the major part of the cost is labour rather than parts.

I had mine done a couple of weeks ago at Guildford Motors Petroleum, 210 Guildford Rd, Guildford Ph 9632 8581. They charged me $380 to supply and fit reconditioned CV joints and new boots (both sides) plus do a blue slip inspection on the car. I think the blue slip fee is about $55, so that would make it $325 for the CV's.

Prior to going there I got a price from some people advertising on ebay. Their advert was for complete shafts with new outer CV joints, reconditioned inner joints and new boots. This is their reply:


Hello,

The price supply and fitting the cv boots is $77 per side, the price for
supply and fitting the complete cv shaft (on exchange basis) is $125 per side.

Our address:

A & L drive shafts
6/46 Elizabeth St
Campsie NSW 2194

Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat 8am-12 Ph(02)97871622 Contact Tony

The reason I didn't go to them is that they weren't authorised to do blue slip inspections. I had bought the car unregistered and didn't want to drive it all the way to Campsie and back and still have to find someone else to do the blue slip inspection.

In fact most mechanical workshops will do the job for you and I suggest that about $300 to $350 would be a reasonable all-up cost.

regards
Coldamus

I can buy a new set for 200$, is that a reasonable price? It sounds ok :)

oh yes, I found those CV-s that I mentioned also from that place in Campsie (on eBay). So, in fact, for 250$ they will complete the job as per your message. That sounds OK to me.

Yes, when I found them on ebay, the $200 deal did not include fitting so I asked them whether they could do the fitting and they then gave me the reply quoted above: $125 per side, fitted. I think its a good deal.

However, before you throw your money around willy-nilly, make sure it really is the CV joints. My CV boots were torn so the boots had to be replaced anyway. If the CV joints are badly worn, you will notice a definite clicking noise when doing tight turns or U-turns.

I'm suggesting caution because I just had a problem with my other car (a TP wagon) which turned out to be just a dud ignition lead on one cylinder. Whenever I put it under load, it would misfire and the engine would buck and jolt. The vibration felt like it was coming from the drive-axles or the suspension - had me totally fooled.

regards
Coldamus

oh really? I had actually thought about that and changed the dissy, which in turn, didn't solve the problem. But, the leads themselves, I better check that out first!
Thanks!

I just did a test drive and I notice that the vibrations start around 85klm - 90klm, they stop immediately when I press the clutch (it'a a manual TP). What does that rule out? I think it rules out the brakes, the suspension and stabilizer bar. Am I right about that?

The other thing is, if it would be something in the electrical system (like missfiring), it would also happen in any other gear during acceleration, or not?

I tried the narrow left and right turn a few times, but I don't hear anything strange. What I will do tomorrow is jack the front side and let the wheels run in first gear to see if there's any instability.

While driving I do feel a very soft "knock" or something through the accellerator pedal which seems to occure with every turn of the wheels.

Anything else someone recommands to check???

Brake rotors...

All your leads...

Dizzy...

Coil...

Clutch and gear box?

I suggest brake rotors because in the Commodore when they were warped and way to thin at speeds between 55-70 it felt like something was shaking, but as soon as I stopped accelerating it would go away...

I just did a test drive and I notice that the vibrations start around 85klm - 90klm, they stop immediately when I press the clutch (it'a a manual TP). What does that rule out? I think it rules out the brakes, the suspension and stabilizer bar. Am I right about that?

The other thing is, if it would be something in the electrical system (like missfiring), it would also happen in any other gear during acceleration, or not?

You'd think it would rule out everything except the engine but as you say, why would it not happen in other gears.

At any rate, you seem to have exonerated the CV joints.

Perhaps check for broken engine mounts? Can't think of anything else at the moment.

regards
Coldamus

While driving I do feel a very soft "knock" or something through the accellerator pedal which seems to occure with every turn of the wheels.
If it is a ticking sort of sound, that could be the speedo cable. If so, it helps to straighten out the cable as much as possible - i.e. try to avoid having any sharp bends in it.

mmm, yes, I was thinking about clutch, gearbox, diff, cv-joints (still possible I think) or brakes. The other thing is, it seems to be fading. I am not sure yet if that is only my mind or that it really fades, but it very much looks like that.

This car had been standing still for a while when I bought it, and all strange squeakes that I had in the beginning (last week) have all gone now. Is it possible the vibrations can be caused by something that has been standing still for a while??

Is it possible the vibrations can be caused by something that has been standing still for a while??

Perhaps the tyres may have had flats on them from standing for a long time, especially if partly deflated. That would tend to go away with use. However it doesn't fit in with what you said about the vibration ceasing when you push in the clutch - that would tend to rule out wheels, tyres, brakes, driveshafts, CV joints and anything else that still rotates when coasting.

How bad is the vibration, mild or life-threatening? What happens if you go faster than 85-90kph? Does it smooth out or get worse?

How bad is the vibration, mild or life-threatening? What happens if you go faster than 85-90kph? Does it smooth out or get worse?

At first I felt like it was life-threatening and I slowed down immediately, but now after crusing approx 450km, it seems like a mild vibration. If I drive either slower than 80kph it won't happen, driving faster than 95 or so will also smooth out the vibs. Is that strange or what? I do have the feeling it comes from the front driver's side, but it's hard to tell.

Those symptoms are similar to wheels out of balance but would not explain why the vibration stops when you depress the clutch. Perhaps disengaging the clutch causes your speed to drop below the critical range. I can only suggest getting someone to check it. A mechanic should recognize whether it is CV joints or not. It doesn't seem like CVs to me because you would notice a clicking noise in sharp turns.

Those symptoms are similar to wheels out of balance but would not explain why the vibration stops when you depress the clutch. Perhaps disengaging the clutch causes your speed to drop below the critical range.

Yes, it is very similar, but another difference is that if the wheels are not balanced, the steering wheel will shake, in my car the steering wheel is not shaking but the car itself is shaking. It feels a bit like driving against a heavy wind with a wind sensitive car.

Just had a thought. Why not swap your wheels front to back. If that fixes the problem or changes the vibration significantly, then you can be fairly sure it is a wheel balance problem. If no change, it is something else.

It is a bit of work but a no-cost diagnosis method. We poverty-stricken 1st Gen. owners like no-cost alternatives.

regards
Coldamus

I just PM-ed you (coldamus), but maybe I better post it here as well.

I listened very carefully today on the M4 and I can hear a bearing grinding, it also feels like there is "free play" somewhere. The vibs start up hill, then fade on the crest, then return down hill, there must be free play in between. I am quite positive it has something to do with the right front drive shaft, the right front hub bearing or the diff part of the transmission. (or all at the same time....). There is some light right front damage, maybe something has hit the wheel and smashed a bearing or something.

I'll do the tyre check tomorrow, but I don't think it'll be that. Anyway, it's a "free of charge" check like you already said :)