Hi guys, new user here...

I have an Auto '90 TP Wagon and she's a little beauty. Lately I've been having a problem with it stalling when it's cold though. And it seems to be chewing through the juice at a higher rate than it should but I haven't actually tested it yet, just realised I'm refueling more than I used too. I've a few bottles of injector cleaner through it but to no avail, I think it might be getting worse.

So what do you guys reckon? When it's warm she's beaut but overly thirsty. The Oxygen sensor has been suggested to me but I don't where to locate it and check it. Or just replace it? And someone said something about a MAF but I don't know what that is. Please let me know what you think, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

My bet is your coolant temp sensor is buggered.
What this is suppose to do is, it senses the coolant temp, when its cold it sends more fuel, once it warms up it sends normal fuel mixture.
Its the automatic choke system.

The O2 sensor and the MAF would be causing problems regardles if ur engine is hot or cold.

You can check it by finding it, removing it and putting it in hot water and testing the resistance with a multi meter.
The exact values I dont know, but should be different for hot and cold obviously.

Is that the same sensor that my temp guage uses because the temp guage works?

Is that the same sensor that my temp guage uses because the temp guage works?
Well, my gauge does not work when it is disconnected. It is in the inlet manifold coolant passage. When facing the engine from the front, it is on your right hand side (passenger side of car), behind the distributor and about half-way back towards the firewall. It has a single wire connected to it by a clip. As Ascension says, to test it fully you need to remove it and test in hot water at various temperatures. However you can get a rough idea by testing in situ. Resistance values should be between 5.1 to 6.6 k-ohms at 0 degrees C., between 2.2 to 2.9 k-ohms at 20 deg. C., between 1.0 to 1.2 k-ohms at 40 deg. C. and between 0.25 to 0.45 k-ohms at 80 deg. C.

The Oxygen sensor is screwed into the exhaust manifold just below the point where the pipes from the 4 cylinders meet. Facing the engine from the front of the car, look down between the radiator and the engine and you should see a single wire going to it. It is at about the level of the oil dipstick and a couple of inches left of it. It is tricky to test - should show a steady voltage of 0.1 to 0.2 volts until the engine warms up and exhaust gets above 300 degrees C. Should then fluctuate rapidly between 0.1 and 0.9 volts. If you need to change it, you will need a good spanner because it may be very tight.

The MAF is an airflow sensor in the air intake. However the idle speed transition from cold to hot is managed by the computer (ECU) via the idle speed controller motor (ISC). It reads the position of the ISC from the motor position sensor (MPS), so it would be worth checking those two first.

Actually, the easiest way of checking the Oxygen sensor, MAF, ISC and MPS is by reading the diagnostic codes from the ECU. There is no diagnostic code for the coolant temperature sensor though.

regards
Coldamus

Poida, no it is not the same sensor that your temp gauge uses.

Follow coldamus instructions in removing it, go buy a new one or one from the wreckers.

Replace this item first off the bat as 90% chance this is your problem, if it doesnt fix it then we can look into other aspects.