Who tied those nuts so hard!!! Jee, I broke a stud and the nut is still on it, tried the other 3, two come lose but the third is probably going to break too!! How can I get this wheel off??

is it a steel wheel or an alloy mag. if it's just a steely grab out the old grinder and cut it off. then get a friend to take u to the wreckers and get another wheel and set of nuts. i did this too an old xa falcon i bought for the mags but they still had the lock nuts on and no key. tried the socket bashed over the end first but didn't help. so ot came the grinder and i split it right down the middle of the locknut. and i got the mags off without a scratch.

u might be lucky enough to find a member with a spare wheel and set of nuts sitting in the shed. never know unless u ask:D

if you cant undo em just break em once the wheel is off take the hub off and replace the studs

how are those studs fitted to the wheel hub then? Is it easy to put new ones in there? Where to get them?

It's a normal steel wheel and I do have a spare with some nuts as well, but I probably better take the grinder and try to split the nut because there's still a good tyre on the wheel (near new!!)

no need to cut the rim just break the stud bolts off use a socket and the t bar with a tube for leverage

use the TNs hub to get the parts

that's the point, the stud is loose and the nut is still there, I can turn the stud + nut freely with 2 fingers, so the t bar is of no use. But I can't get the nut of the broken stud. :rant:

I was indeed planning to take the hubs of the TN because they are much better, I checked them today, they don't even need machining!! But I need to put the old TP hubs back on the TN. What is cheaper, get a hub from the wreckers or buy a stud (probably 2) from mitsubishi?

ok i get it now the stud has stripped its spline on the hub and the wheel is still on

I would weld the stud at the back of the hub if i could reach it or try to make a screwdriver slot to hold the stud

you wont be able to undo the brake calliper and then undo the hub nut with the wheel on it

you could call a mobile welding service to blow off the nut with oxy this would save the rim

would your breakdown service do this for you ?? give them a call

as suggested an angle grinder with a metal cutting wheel on an angle will do the job

ah, with an oxy, that's an idea, we got one at work. From those pictures it seems like those studs are quite easy to replace once the hub is off. I do have NRMA break down service, do you really think they will come to me to fix the problem? for free? That would be interesting!

Or else, does that brake calliper come off easy? I got that magna manual here, it says you first need to undo the hand brake cable from underneath the centre console. Is that really necessary?

yes the break down service will come ---and do that thats what you pay for

12 mm spanner and pliers

I have that service still on the TN, would they also come for the TP or do I first need to change it over?

what's the pliers for, by the way? Do you know what's the size of that nut that holds the hub on the shaft?

That is fantastic, thanks buffy!!

Or else, does that brake calliper come off easy? I got that magna manual here, it says you first need to undo the hand brake cable from underneath the centre console. Is that really necessary?

No it is not necessary. The last couple of times that I've replaced rear brake pads, I've been able to get the calipers off without undoing the hand brake cable. There is just enough slack. I wouldn't say it is easy though.

The rear brake cly (in the calipar) are screw in so don't use a clap to force it back in cos it won't work.just so u kow there's an easyer way to make the brake cly go back into the housing then using a screw driver. now when u look at the back of the calipar u will see the bolt that holds the hand brake plate in place. when u twist it one way the cly starts getting pushed out but if u turn it the other way it will sink into housing. so twit it so it goes into the housing and get ur hand and push the cly that bit back in and keep doing that untill it's bake in.

also while ur there u might as well pull the calipar to bits and clean it with an old tooth brush and some metho. then regrease with fresh brake fluid. that way it keeps working in good nick. then id bleed all the brakes to keep them responding good.

when u twist it one way the cly starts getting pushed out but if u turn it the other way it will sink into housing.

What do you mean exactly smooth, are you saying that if I turn the bolt that holds that handbrake lever (not the bracket) (that bolt that is in the center at the back side of the cly) that this will actualy rotate that screw that pushes in the cly as well? If so, that would indeed be an easy solution!

Turning that bolt will in fact loosing up that lever, right? So what you try to do this way is stretch the handbrake cable a little, just enough to push back the cly a little but not as hard as that the bolt will come loose. Repeat these steps until there's enough clearence. Is that it??

remove tha calipar and hand brak bracket. it looks like a cicle with 2 flat side for the brake to go over. so take out the 12mm bolt that holds on the hand brake bracket. it's under that, the 12mm bolt threads into it.

this is the hand brake bracket and bolt take that off to see what i mean
http://img175.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rearbrakes1ja8.jpg


now this is the screw i mean
http://img329.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rearbrake22dc9.jpg

when i changed my pads,rotors,bearings and studs, i pulled off the calipars, disassembled them , gave em a good clean in metho and regreased in fresh fluid to make sure they were in top shape before i pulled them apart they looked in good nick. but when i took out the cly it was suface rust in there. so then i did all the brakes to make sure i won't have any hasseles down the track.

if ive missed something just ask. and ive re-newed or replaced almost every mech part in my tp so if u need any help in the future just ask:D

oh p.s when u turn the screw one way the cly will be pushed out. but when the screw gets turned the other way , the screw sinks into the calipar housing( not the cly). but it allows u too psuh the cly in a bit at a time with ur finger when u turn the screw first. bit hard to explain properly but if u muck around with it u'll see what i mean. it takes alittle longer to do it like this but u won't damage the seal around the cly this way.

heh we had a similar prob to my car the other week when we went to take the motor out, the stud was just spinning in the hub
simple fix - zing with the drill and $12.50 for a new hub

heh we had a similar prob to my car the other week when we went to take the motor out, the stud was just spinning in the hub
simple fix - zing with the drill and $12.50 for a new hub

$12.50 for a new hub?? That sounds very cheap. I put 2 new studs in the hub, they were $4 each from repco. Where did you get that new hub from?

whoop i ment for a wrecker not newnew
either way i seem to have picked up a good one, gave it a clean and checked the barings and seemed to be good :)