hey all,

I've been thinking about the mods I want to do to my magna and a thought just came to me (wow thoughts come to me at 11:30pm lol), which mods are effective at increasing the fuel economy of a TE magna? I'm only getting about 400k from it at the moment and would love some more as I'm just a poor ass student :P

thanks

how many k's has your car done. get a major service done, that could help improve fuel economy also u may have a faulty o2 sensor.i have a 96 te with 201km on the clock and i get about 550 to 600 to a tank mix of city and freeway. city alone i pro get 450 to 500

the only things that come to mind are
k&n panel filter and extractors and maybe a hi-flow cat

hmmm, kinda defeats the purpose I guess if it takes 3 years to pay off the mods...! I've heard people saying the FIR fuel saver off Ebay is quite good, especially the combo pack. The 'ring' type is better than the other type. I think its megasavings2000 that are selling them. For the TE you'd need 2 minimum, pref 3 if they'll fit. They're 20cm each and must be installed on the inlet pipe, and only to rubber or plastic hoses. 3 would require a 60cm inlet fuel line...

The combo pack also includes a panel one you fit on the dirty side of the filter, but not to oil type air filters.

Anybody tryed the Stromberg? a friend reckons it gives a sprightier engine and about a 5 percent improvement, but it gives a crapload of noise on fm which he only negated by shielding the wires.

Any parts of your air intake feel warmer than others? Don't know about the Te's and later, but the earlier models especially the air intake was right next to the water pumps etc like on my TP, and the filter box/air inlet pipes absorb the heat from it. This will lead to denser air and hence better fuel economy. Its even worse when the heating source is after the temperature sensor as air expands when hot and the air sensor therefore sends an incorrect picture. The TP's etc benefit from heat shielding as the bottom radiator hose? (its saturday morning and I've had a few to drink)! lol, can actually rest up against the air filter box which is of course, a bad thing!

to be honest, in my opinion, the best and only way to save fuel is to go light on the throttle.

i mean spending money to gain a few k's outta a tank doesnt really add up :)

I have found a few things which make a difference.

1. Don't use unleaded 91 RON, use 95 RON at Shell, I get a extra 50k's per half tank

2. Put the same spark plugs in the front as the back

3. Increase tyre pressures an extra 2 psi, if too hard back off until comfortable

4. The parking brake. the manual says to adjust to tight (at the wheels) then back off 5 clicks. I found the shoes still dragged. So I backed off 7 clicks, so no drag, this made a big difference.

This easily gets 600 k's per tank around town. Easy on the go pedal, not slow just easy.

Hope this helps.

I have found a few things which make a difference.

1. Don't use unleaded 91 RON, use 95 RON at Shell, I get a extra 50k's per half tank

2. Put the same spark plugs in the front as the back

3. Increase tyre pressures an extra 2 psi, if too hard back off until comfortable

4. The parking brake. the manual says to adjust to tight (at the wheels) then back off 5 clicks. I found the shoes still dragged. So I backed off 7 clicks, so no drag, this made a big difference.

This easily gets 600 k's per tank around town. Easy on the go pedal, not slow just easy.

Hope this helps.


thats good advice

all cost effective to!

Aslo if its a 4 cylinder, forget the recommended plugs, source a set or irridiums (Supercheap $9 to $12 when on special) to suit the car and put these in. They do make a difference.

I have found a few things which make a difference.

1. Don't use unleaded 91 RON, use 95 RON at Shell, I get a extra 50k's per half tank

Please don't give poor advice as putting anything other than 91 ron in a 3rd gen that's not tuned for it will not do anything. This has been covered a myriad of times before, and it's because the engines aren't equiped with a knock sensor. The rest of your suggestions are good.

Stick a block of wood under your accelerator.

Please don't give poor advice as putting anything other than 91 ron in a 3rd gen that's not tuned for it will not do anything. This has been covered a myriad of times before, and it's because the engines aren't equiped with a knock sensor. The rest of your suggestions are good.

All that means is that you will not gain power... but you will gain in fuel economy. 95ron is 95 ron... it will always burn better than 91ron, no matter how the car's tuned.

Please don't give poor advice as putting anything other than 91 ron in a 3rd gen that's not tuned for it will not do anything. This has been covered a myriad of times before, and it's because the engines aren't equiped with a knock sensor. The rest of your suggestions are good.

sorry man but i gotta disagree with you there. im usin V Power racing from shell 100ron. it makes a huge difference, performance and economy wise. i put in the normal stuff one day by accident after running the V Power for a month or so, there was obvios power loss and she felt very groggy and lagging. the higher the ron (relative octane number) the better the combustion.
anyways off 2 schoolie!!! :D
peace y'all

Mods do not increase the econemy at all.

The throttle is there to restrict the air flow, so keeping it closed will restrict air and fuel but also power. Having a dirty old paper air filter will actually increase fuel econ because its like having the throttle closed a tiny little bit extra because of the restriction.

Exhausts are different but modding them just doesn't make any difference either. Pushing the exhaust out probably uses about 0.2kw, so increasing your exhaust diameter won't increase fuel econemy. It does help peak power however, but thats beside the point.

95RON or not is the same amount of money spent guys. the cheaper fuel 91 make up for it. You can pump it but is about the same verdict.

IN FACT you find that when your car is stock, you have more fuel economy than it was before. Having those nice 205 65 R15 tyres gave me 700kms easily on my TE, once changed to the Verada rims I got 50kms less.

A spoiler will increase your fuel usage.
any extra added weight
wrong tyre pressure
Engine oil not changed

sorry man but i gotta disagree with you there. im usin V Power racing from shell 100ron. it makes a huge difference, performance and economy wise. i put in the normal stuff one day by accident after running the V Power for a month or so, there was obvios power loss and she felt very groggy and lagging. the higher the ron (relative octane number) the better the combustion.
anyways off 2 schoolie!!! :D
peace y'all
You're also driving a 2nd gen magna which DOES have a knock sensor, 3rd gens don't.

You wont gain any power/economy with 92+RON from a 3rd gen, UNLESS the 91RON fuel you're currently using is poor quality, or you have advanced your timing. Sure the 95RON will burn abit better, but the difference is very very small, doubtful it would offset the extra cost.

All that means is that you will not gain power... but you will gain in fuel economy. 95ron is 95 ron... it will always burn better than 91ron, no matter how the car's tuned.
The higher ron rating in the fuel means better economy and better power gains and it's more explosive. Because the 3rd gens aren't equipped with a knock sensor and hence can't advance or retard their timing I don't think there's any gain in power or economy because as far as the car knows whatever ron fuel you put in it the car thinks it's 91 because that's what the factory tune is for.


sorry man but i gotta disagree with you there. im usin V Power racing from shell 100ron. it makes a huge difference, performance and economy wise. i put in the normal stuff one day by accident after running the V Power for a month or so, there was obvios power loss and she felt very groggy and lagging. the higher the ron (relative octane number) the better the combustion.
anyways off 2 schoolie!!! :D
peace y'all

Your profile says you drive a 4 cyl second gen so what does that have to do with 3rd gens which is what my comment was aimed at? You should read posts better man.

Mods do not increase the econemy at all.

The throttle is there to restrict the air flow, so keeping it closed will restrict air and fuel but also power. Having a dirty old paper air filter will actually increase fuel econ because its like having the throttle closed a tiny little bit extra because of the restriction.

Exhausts are different but modding them just doesn't make any difference either. Pushing the exhaust out probably uses about 0.2kw, so increasing your exhaust diameter won't increase fuel econemy. It does help peak power however, but thats beside the point.

What about if a few kw's/nm's is made earlier in the rev range, ie less throttle needed to perform similar tasks while driving, if you see what i mean.

Also just from personal experience any restriction will cut economy like people gain a few k's a tank from a straight through muffler. I think an exhaust system might help but as known they don't really make a difference as stock they're quite apt.

On octane of fuel you need to see whether the more efficient combustion of the higher octanes is worth the extra cost. Also take into consideration the better the fuel the better your engine will stay good in terms of longevity if you plan on keeping it for a while.

peace out

The higher ron rating in the fuel means better economy and better power gains and it's more explosive. Because the 3rd gens aren't equipped with a knock sensor and hence can't advance or retard their timing I don't think there's any gain in power or economy because as far as the car knows whatever ron fuel you put in it the car thinks it's 91 because that's what the factory tune is for.

Yes but how does the factory tune make the fuel less 'explosive'? :confused:

All the factory timing limits is the ammount of compression of the mixture before ignition occurrs; which is where the noticeable power gains are made.

There is only two was to reallt fix fuel consumption..

1. is to not drive like a lead foot.. drive like a granny.. trust me it works..:P

2. is to replace V6 with smaller moter..:P

Sorry Disciple your wrong.

95 RON makes a huge difference, knock sensor or none.

For those who haven't, try it, see if you see what I see. 50k's per half tank extra.

Poor advise ...phoeeeee

Sorry Discple your wrong.

95 RON makes a huge difference, knock sensor or none.

For those who havn't, try it, see if you see what I see.

Poor advise ...phoeeeee
Ok, that's your opinion. Mine is it doesn't do anything through testing a lot when I first got my car. Since it's been tuned for 98 ron fuel with a Haltech Interceptor my fuel consumption went from 11-12L/100 to 9-11L/100. Before the tune it made no difference running higher ron fuels. I just think people who think they're getting more k's out of a tank of higher octane fuels are fooling themselves into believing it because they've just forked out 10c more per litre.

Can someone with some real knowledge confirm any of this please?

91 RON or 95 RON makes no difference on the following basis. You spend more money on premium, so as compared to standard ULP (taking into account any "extra" kms you get out of a tank), even if you did come out on top, the difference in cost would be so marginal it really doesnt matter. What else is there to argue about with fuel?

91 RON or 95 RON makes no difference on the following basis. You spend more money on premium, so as compared to standard ULP (taking into account any "extra" kms you get out of a tank), even if you did come out on top, the difference in cost would be so marginal it really doesnt matter. What else is there to argue about with fuel?

We're not talking about money here mate... we're just talking straight fuel economy. The original question was not "how do i save money?". Although while we're on that subject, i think that if it makes no difference in the end (price wise), then why not run the 95? It'll burn better (possibly a little bit cleaner), you'll get an extra 50kms to a tank (as quoted by Alive), which may be beneficial on a long drive. You'll have to fill up less frequently, which means less unneccessary trips to the servo, which would waste more fuel if its out of your normal daily route. So i see no reason why not to run the 95ron...

We're not talking about money here mate... we're just talking straight fuel economy. The original question was not "how do i save money?". Although while we're on that subject, i think that if it makes no difference in the end (price wise), then why not run the 95? It'll burn better (possibly a little bit cleaner), you'll get an extra 50kms to a tank (as quoted by Alive), which may be beneficial on a long drive. You'll have to fill up less frequently, which means less unneccessary trips to the servo, which would waste more fuel if its out of your normal daily route. So i see no reason why not to run the 95ron...

Wait on your missing my point. IMO, why else do you want fuel economy? To save money. Who really cares what the consumption numbers are if you are getting better value for your dollar. What I meant by my previous post is the cost of going up to 95RON outweighs any extra k's you get out of a tank. Simple really.

Wait on your missing my point. IMO, why else do you want fuel economy? To save money. Who really cares what the consumption numbers are if you are getting better value for your dollar. What I meant by my previous post is the cost of going up to 95RON outweighs any extra k's you get out of a tank. Simple really.

I thought you meant it was even... 91ron = 95ron... same price in the end. (when kms x price is added up).

Yeah, exams are over so my brain is still mush lol.

AHHH, lol. But you don't get extra k's out of the higher ron fuel because the car isn't tuned for it. As far I'm aware your car still needs to be tuned for higher ron fuels to even gain fuel economy.

Mods do not increase the econemy at all.

correct :)
infact really the only mod you can do is 'mod' it back to stock - its simple really back in the days mitsu didnt design the car to be played with they desiged with it adequate power and econ to match, doing things with exhausts and filters allow more air to flow through the motor and more air = more fuel
other then that just keep it well serviced and change the fuel filter :)

AHHH, lol. But you don't get extra k's out of the higher ron fuel because the car isn't tuned for it. As far I'm aware your car still needs to be tuned for higher ron fuels to even gain fuel economy.


I believe this aswell, 3rd gens are better off with 91ron unless tuned for it, they dont have a knock sensor which picks up the different type of fuel.

where as 2nd gens do

to give credit to desciples argument,

i had 2 dyno's on 2 separate weekends... back to back... same dyno same weather conditions

first time had cheapo petrol, secoind time had 95ron plus octane boost ... i pulled the exact same amount of power on the dyno both times

there is one mod that can definitely increase your fuel econ but on a cost/benefit ratio its hardly worth it.

thats a decent ecu.

get it on a dyno and have your air/fuel ratios adjusted so that the car runs perfectly in its sweet spot. most factory cars have certain safeties built into them from the factory, and usualy run rich most of the time.

having this done on a reasonably modded skyline made a 70 km a tank difference. i will admit im unsure as to how much result you would get from a magna.

oh and on the topic of fuel economy, i love my crx :D

to give credit to desciples argument,

i had 2 dyno's on 2 separate weekends... back to back... same dyno same weather conditions

first time had cheapo petrol, secoind time had 95ron plus octane boost ... i pulled the exact same amount of power on the dyno both times

Reading through this whole thread makes my mind hurt.
for an Extra $4 or so on top of 91RON you can get 95RON, which IF gets you 50k's or more works out to be same as if you put 5L more of 91RON in.
so in the end if you fork out the extra $4 for that fuel your getting more k's, a better quality fuel, and in the end your car will thank you for it.
If you get more k's dont have to flame them...Im sure there not idiots and do know that there car is getting better economy.
My Nannu runs only 98RON in his TE and reckons he gets over 50k's or more to a tank over standard fuel. Dont see why members are trying to tell other members what they should not be getting....
I would make sure your spark plugs are kept in tip top condition, and always change oil every 10,000k's, if you do alot fo short trips service it every 5,000k's
Maybe add a CAI if your keen and a panel filter.

Worth reading the wikipedia article on octane rating (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Effects_of_octane_rating). It talks about all this stuff.

For those who are too lazy:

1. Octane numbers refer to the fuel's activation energy. The higher the octane the more energy is required to make it go bang.
2. Higher octane doesn't automatically mean a bigger bang - that's down to the composition of the fuel. More carbons = more energy, more hydrogen or oxygen = less energy
3. However, premium fuels are often made to contain more energy anyway
4. Point #2 means that alcohol blend fuels generally contain less energy than regular fuels by volume

You can get more power out of an engine by increasing compression and/or advancing spark. Doing this with a fuel that doesn't have a high enough octane rating means the fuel will combust too early (knocking or pinging), and you'll lose power and hurt the engine.

This means - the act of increasing the power of your engine often requires an increase in the minimum required octane. Increasing your fuel's octane does not increase power.

However, if your engine was knocking anyway (for whatever reason), increasing your fuel's octane rating can get you power back that the knocking was taking away.

Not much of a summary really was it.. :nuts:

Worth reading the wikipedia article on octane rating (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating#Effects_of_octane_rating). It talks about all this stuff.

For those who are too lazy:

1. Octane numbers refer to the fuel's activation energy. The higher the octane the more energy is required to make it go bang.
2. Higher octane doesn't automatically mean a bigger bang - that's down to the composition of the fuel. More carbons = more energy, more hydrogen or oxygen = less energy
3. However, premium fuels are often made to contain more energy anyway
4. Point #2 means that alcohol blend fuels generally contain less energy than regular fuels by volume

You can get more power out of an engine by increasing compression and/or advancing spark. Doing this with a fuel that doesn't have a high enough octane rating means the fuel will combust too early (knocking or pinging), and you'll lose power and hurt the engine.

This means - the act of increasing the power of your engine often requires an increase in the minimum required octane. Increasing your fuel's octane does not increase power.

However, if your engine was knocking anyway (for whatever reason), increasing your fuel's octane rating can get you power back that the knocking was taking away.

Not much of a summary really was it.. :nuts:
But will a higher octane fuel on the basis of it being higher octane alone, improve fuel economy on a 3rd gen Magna in your opinion?

But will a higher octane fuel on the basis of it being higher octane alone, improve fuel economy on a 3rd gen Magna in your opinion?

Just because it's a higher octane (that is, assuming it's not also a higher-energy fuel), then there's no reason why it would.

However if it's also a higher-energy fuel, then yes it probably would.

From the article (assuming it is all correct.. wikipedia isn't always 100%), those fuels that have ethanol added to raise the octane number will probably reduce economy.. can't wait for that to be discussed lol

Just because it's a higher octane (that is, assuming it's not also a higher-energy fuel), then there's no reason why it would.

However if it's also a higher-energy fuel, then yes it probably would.

From the article (assuming it is all correct.. wikipedia isn't always 100%), those fuels that have ethanol added to raise the octane number will probably reduce economy.. can't wait for that to be discussed lol

Thats true to a point, if the fuel the ethanol is added to is low quality. The standard fuel in the US is around 86 octane? so adding ethanol to this and selling it as 91/92 octane, the fuel is still essentially 86. Now 86 fuel is crap, so just by adding ethanol and masking it as a higher octane will actually give you lower fuel economy than the standard 91/92 octane fuel.

Have a realistic fuel SAE for your car. A too thick a oil such as 15W-40 would be very bad as the engine would have to work harder to push the oil around. A too low of an oil (0w-30 for example) especially in an older car will slip straight past the rings and you'll burn oil (maybe chronically).

And this comes back to the whole synthetic/synthetic blend arguments where there's no right answer! Although do keep in mind that Ausie oils are potentially better in hot weather, such as the Penrite. Yes i like the Penrite! lol

Say HPR 5 for a syn blend or the Sin 5 for a fully synthetic in the penrite? Not really worth geting oil that costs you $170 an oil change etc., some people on here like the uber expensive oils, but likewise its bad to put in cheap oil that doesn't do your engine any good or a too thick of oil which will degrade performance and fuel economy!

Thats true to a point, if the fuel the ethanol is added to is low quality. The standard fuel in the US is around 86 octane? so adding ethanol to this and selling it as 91/92 octane, the fuel is still essentially 86. Now 86 fuel is crap, so just by adding ethanol and masking it as a higher octane will actually give you lower fuel economy than the standard 91/92 octane fuel.

I believe they use a different octane rating system in the US...

Arrgghhh!!! Why does my V6 TE get only 300 kms out of a tank

I try and drive like a grandma but it doesnt seem to help, oh and ive had
it looked at by mechanics on more than one occassion.

Is it possible that the cars are different, like maybe mine is a lemon?lol

To Fergo

"Arrgghhh!!! Why does my V6 TE get only 300 kms out of a tank"

I know you said that it has been to mechanics, but if mine did that ....?????

Seriously, have you had it to MItsi and let them run the dials over it as a test, not a fix situation?

I think I would be borrowing an ECU and doing a standrad 100 km test and checking the quantity of fuel put back in the tank. Also do the same with the air flow meter.

Hope this helps

Arrgghhh!!! Why does my V6 TE get only 300 kms out of a tank

I try and drive like a grandma but it doesnt seem to help, oh and ive had
it looked at by mechanics on more than one occassion.

Is it possible that the cars are different, like maybe mine is a lemon?lol

When you say "300 km out of a tank" do you mean by the fuel gauge or by the pump? Say if you leave an 8L safety, thats still 56L for 300km... 18.7L per 100km :shock: or even worse, if you really do leave 4L, that makes 20/100kmL...

Sorry about all that but thats um, impossible? So exactly how many litres do you use for that 300 km (disregard the petrol gauge)? Its possible that either the fuel gauge, voltage regulator, or the fuel sender unit may be faulty.

Is it possible you are losing compression, at least on one of your cylinders? Also have you made sure all your vacuum hoses are in perfect order?

Is your automatic gearbox shifting as it should? you may need to get the transmission fluid changed! (every two years unless its under heavy load, such as much towing, or has very high mileage under that time when it should be done sooner). Sure you can put it off, but why change engine oil at 10,000 to 'better look after your vehicle' if the transmission is neglected?! (I know its not as vital to, but still!)

Have you driven other TE/TF magna's to compare performance? You can only compare your car to another TE or a TF.

Park around the corner from a car dealership (so they don't see you have the same model Magna) and give one a test drive if possible ;). The general driving of the car should 'feel' the same. If its completely different to yours, in terms of it being smoother and more powerful a change of mechanics may be a good idea!

Oil too thick like previously stated. Around a 5w-... I believe for your car would be ideal. Run an oil stabiliser in it, that will help prevent blow-by as well as Nulon stop leak or whatever its called. That is not a thickener like the others, its a seal supple - menter :). hmmm, Nulon Performance Engine Treatment :D. Okay thats about $80 all up for the oil, esl (only need to use it one), the engine treatment and the Morey's Oil stabiliser (this is an optional part), but at least your engine will be less restricted by the oil thickness, have less friction from the performance treatment and be lubricated even at start by the stabiliser (works much better than the Magnetec crap).

Tyre pressures too low? use one at a different garage and have say, 32PSI all round. Its a good idea to have a tyre gauge too, but most of them are crap. The only good tyre gauge and I mean good in the sense of quality, ease of use, longevity, and accuracy is a PCL gauge. They're made in England too and not china like most of the others. Can't get them at supercheap but you'll have to go to a place like Autopro etc. They're around $12 but well worth the extra few dollars for a superior product. The reason for the gauge is that many of the service station gauges seem to become unreliable over time, and usually read too high. (like a faulty fuel pump gauge - wasn't the report like 33 percent of petrol states pumps were inaccurate with most saying they delivered more fuel than they really did? figures!).

Try a different fuel. Some cars just hate some fuels. Like BP standard is 91 whereas Caltex, Shell, Mobil is 92. Now for my car (ok its a TP), it runs fine on shell, caltex, Saff (runs best on this), united, but crap on BP, mobil, and liberty. The octane rating is completely different to the fuel makeup, so although generally a higher octane leads to better performance this is not always the case, as others have mentioned.

This has gone WAY off topic. I don't see how something mechanically impossible like better fuel economy through higher octane fuel from a car that doesn't have a knock sensor is even open to interpretation through opinion, but it looks as tho it is.

OP: Extractors maybe. Drive slower.

Where has everyone got this idea of the 3rd gens not having a knock sensor from? From reading the workshop manual it definately states in there that they DO have a knock sensor. Now I can't see why they'd put a knock sensor in the workshop manual, but leave it out of the cars:nuts:.

There is so much rubbish in this thread :doubt:

Is that knock sensor for the V6?
I can't find any reference to it in my manual.

I was getting about 1L/100km less than average with the addition of a pod filter on top of my other mods. This was mostly due to the car running a bit leaner I think.

Also I think the exhaust mods improved economy a little bit. Stock I often reached 16L/100km average across a week. With mods its mid 14s. Yes this is high consumption, but this is coz the majority of my driving is too and from work which is a 7-10 min journey and the car barely can warm up.

I have never gotten better economy of power with higher octane fuel. It does run a little smoother, but no more power at all. I think stonesours graphs put this myth to bed.

Mods can increase economy. Economy doesn't just involve engine power, its where that power is in the rev range, the transmission gearing mating to that power curve, servicing of the car, tyres etc. All cars are engineered for price, reliability and functionality to suit the average joe.

They all trade off against the other.....mods just trade off the above (especially price) for performance, or rice.

16L/100km is still excessive, but true if its cold and you've been driving it hard... its still excessive. When you're car is cold you're not supposed to floor it anyways, Falcon (not sure about the latest Magna's , Commodores etc) actually has a limiter on it which prohibits excessive acceleration until its warm. Some people don't know this and whinge they have no power (comparatively) when they first start the car when cold, but its designed that way!

Maybe the early 3rd gens didn't have a knock sensor until the TH 3.5? In any respect if you are getting better fuel economy out of premium who cares what everyone says!

I still think 16L/100km is excessive, cold or not, unless you're pushing it hard. So yeah, that 300km per tank you were talking about, you wouldn't be putting in around 40L would you?

Where has everyone got this idea of the 3rd gens not having a knock sensor from? From reading the workshop manual it definately states in there that they DO have a knock sensor. Now I can't see why they'd put a knock sensor in the workshop manual, but leave it out of the cars:nuts:.

2nd gens do (V6, don't know about the 4), but 3rd gens don't. This comes up pretty frequently

Where has everyone got this idea of the 3rd gens not having a knock sensor from? From reading the workshop manual it definately states in there that they DO have a knock sensor. Now I can't see why they'd put a knock sensor in the workshop manual, but leave it out of the cars:nuts:.

Are you referring to a 2nd gen magna as is in your profile, if so, than yes, the 2nd gen I4
and v6 do. In fact, they also have higher compression ratio of 10:1 rather than 9:1. I've
tuned my old KS to use 98 and it makes a big difference but with my new car, I just use
91 ron. Altough I do find that cheaper places have bad fuel and it could be a difference of
50km/tank. Also, the Ralliarts have 9.4:1 ratio and any higher, according to the engineers,
will require the use of 95 or higher fuel and possibly power in the vicinity of 200kW. As
whats his name mentioned on page 2, you need high compression engine and the ability to
advance the timing and knock sensors to protect the engine to use and get more power/
efficiency from higher octane fuel. As said, knock sensors are only used to retard the
timing if you accidentally put in bad fuel.

Maybe the early 3rd gens didn't have a knock sensor until the TH 3.5? In any respect if you are getting better fuel economy out of premium who cares what everyone says!
No 3rd gen Magnas came with knock sensors. The problem is that people are "claiming" to get better consumption with higher octane fuels, then give that advise as "fact" which is poor advise because it's a mechanical impossibility due to no knock sensor. That's my beef.

One final point to make. People who claim that 95 or higher give better economy, how do
you measure it? Do you do exactly the same style of driving with exactly the same amount
of stop/start, speed, acceleration, desceleration? You can only claim such things if you
perform clinical/laboratory experimentation. I monitor my fuel usage religiously, mainly
because I've got a novated leave vehicle and I get a variation of 30km/tank with BP from
the same servo with what I think to be consistent driving.

Can the topic of FUEL types be out of the threads guys?

The main focus was whether any mods that can help not using different grades of fuel.

Now if anyone out there at least say use this gadget that boost fuel economy or some special vapour injection etc, is more likely what was the whole idea about suggestions. I see confilcts over 91-95-98, give that a chill will ya? Thats not a mod. Unless you have tune your engine for it.

More interested about people trying other gadgets out here that they felt it was improving the fuel economy.

A few tips on improving economy:

1. Remove everything that is not used from the glovebox, centre console box, underseat
tray, and boot (especially heavy sub boxes).
2. Loose some weight.
3. Inflate tyres to 40psi, the ride maybe slightly bumpy. The tyres will wear out evenly as
well.
4. Don't drive with windows down, use the A/C or fit window socks. The drag caused with
windows down uses more fuel than having the A/C on.
5. Learn to read road conditions and anticipate light changes. Don't accelerate until the
last moment and then applying brakes heavily (One good thing I notice when I was in Perth
before the southern freeway overpasses were finished is that they had warning lights
before the traffic lights. If you pass those lights and they haven't started to flash, then
you should be able to pass the following intersection while maintaining the proper speed. If
they are flashing then you might as well let go off the accelerator and coast to the lights.)
6. There are no mods that will give you better economy that is cost effective.

A few tips on improving economy:

1. Remove everything that is not used from the glovebox, centre console box, underseat
tray, and boot (especially heavy sub boxes).
2. Loose some weight.
3. Inflate tyres to 40psi, the ride maybe slightly bumpy. The tyres will wear out evenly as
well.
4. Don't drive with windows down, use the A/C or fit window socks. The drag caused with
windows down uses more fuel than having the A/C on.
5. Learn to read road conditions and anticipate light changes. Don't accelerate until the
last moment and then applying brakes heavily (One good thing I notice when I was in Perth
before the southern freeway overpasses were finished is that they had warning lights
before the traffic lights. If you pass those lights and they haven't started to flash, then
you should be able to pass the following intersection while maintaining the proper speed. If
they are flashing then you might as well let go off the accelerator and coast to the lights.)
6. There are no mods that will give you better economy that is cost effective.

Thats about it. Agree there man.

Putting 40 PSI tyres in your tyres is not necessarily a good thing, and with a normal tyre if you over inflate it will wear out in the centre more than the outside. If you don't believe me do a search for tyre over inflation.

Actually this is direct from bridgestone http://www.bridgestone.com.au/tyres/products/car/care/facts.asp

Over inflation reduces the ability of the tyre to absorb road shocks, resulting in a much harsher ride. In fact, excessive over inflation may lead to impact fracture, or other casing failures. Over inflation will also cause excessive wear of the centre of the tyre. This will result in premature removal of the tyre. Check the tyre placard for recommended inflation pressures.

I'm not saying a few psi extra is bad, but for the standard size tyres 40PSI is too high.

Running the AC on is actually bad around town. The speed at which the AC becomes more efficient than the windows down is approx 80 km/hr. Below that windows down is more fuel efficient. This is PROVEN FACT too.

Hmm, there may be some mods that are cost effective,don't know how good the ring type FIR fuel saver. maybe worth a try as everyone reckons they're good!

40 psi is not overinflation. Any thing less, especially with the weight of magnas at the front
will bulge out the tyres causing the sides to wear out faster than the centre.
With windows and A/C, yeah, I forgot to mention at what speeds. Pitty with the pillarless
windows that no window sock manufacturer has made one that you can have the window
down.

Really? I would have thought 34 would be ideal. the placard says 29 which I agree is too low!

40 at the front and 36 at the rear (unless carrying rear passengers) for the 215/60R16
and 225/50R17. 38 front and 34 rear for the 205/65R15.

best way to reduce fuel costs is to not drive

theres no way to reduce fuel costs (a noticeable amount) if you drive sensibly

Tyre Pressure.
Motor manufacturers generally give tyre pressure advice that is biased towards comfort.
I have had a Gen2 and now a Gen3. In both cases the recommended tyre pressures are way too low for good handling and even tyre wear.

I now have 234/45/17's on and they are at 40 and 38 PSI.
Almost even tyre wear across the tread. Slightly more wear on the nearside as the car pulls very slightly. This will be a suspension alignment problem.
Gerry

To those that say the 3rd gens have no knock sensor I would like to draw you attention to the following images taken from the official Mitsubishi workshop .pdf manual, not the Gregories/Haynes version. If anyone wants it, it is available here http://www.thehammer.net/magna/.

The first image is from the chassis electrical diagram and clearly states that there is a knock sensor, see device A-63. The second image is from the mutipoint injection trouble shooting section, inspection procedure 20, regarding knocking.

Now why would they include all this in the workshop manual if there was no knock sensor?

Ok, then why doesn't the owners manual specify different power ratings for different RON fuel like the 2nd gens do?
I'm not saying you're right or wrong, i'm not sure now myself, just thought i'd throw that into the mix :).

To those that say the 3rd gens have no knock sensor I would like to draw you attention to the following images taken from the official Mitsubishi workshop .pdf manual, not the Gregories/Haynes version. If anyone wants it, it is available here http://www.thehammer.net/magna/.

The first image is from the chassis electrical diagram and clearly states that there is a knock sensor, see device A-63. The second image is from the mutipoint injection trouble shooting section, inspection procedure 20, regarding knocking.

Now why would they include all this in the workshop manual if there was no knock sensor?

Can you give me page numebrs? Cos that's not in my copy of the workshop manual.. see attached. Note there's no A-63 connector at all.

3rd Gen Magna (TH) 5sp, 235/40/18 running at 32psi, Fitted with Pacies tuned length, K 'n' N Air filter, standard Cat... I have ever only used BP ultimate and Shell Optimax thru her, on the highway Im getting 700k travelling at 110k ac on n off, due to wife gettin cold.

Massive difference with ecomony from fitting the Extractors, Air filter

Running 32psi, cos heat n road conditions out here dont really allow any higher..

My tips for fuel saving, USE CRUISE where ever possible, when slowing down to traffic just tap the clutch and cruise the speed down, overtake quick if needed, but if not needed take it easy. (If you happen to go over ur "set" cruise speed hit the resume n cruise back to that speed).... When entering lowered speed zones, such as roadworks or towns, same again hit the clutch n use decompression of the gear (5th) to the desired speed. Change gears with-in the 2000-3000 range.

Im looking at an additive on the Air box to try and get much cooler air into the intake, will be interesting to find out what fuel I can save..

That's odd. It's on the first page of 54p3118.pdf in mine.

I have no idea why they wouldn't have the power nos in the drivers handbook either. Maybe they thought that no-one would run on premium :confused:

I just don't see why they wouldn't have a knock sensor on them, especially as our fuel quality isn't the best over here in Australia.

3rd Gen Magna (TH) 5sp, 235/40/18 running at 32psi, Fitted with Pacies tuned length, K 'n' N Air filter, standard Cat... I have ever only used BP ultimate and Shell Optimax thru her, on the highway Im getting 700k travelling at 110k ac on n off, due to wife gettin cold.

Massive difference with ecomony from fitting the Extractors, Air filter

Running 32psi, cos heat n road conditions out here dont really allow any higher..

My tips for fuel saving, USE CRUISE where ever possible, when slowing down to traffic just tap the clutch and cruise the speed down, overtake quick if needed, but if not needed take it easy. (If you happen to go over ur "set" cruise speed hit the resume n cruise back to that speed).... When entering lowered speed zones, such as roadworks or towns, same again hit the clutch n use decompression of the gear (5th) to the desired speed. Change gears with-in the 2000-3000 range.

Im looking at an additive on the Air box to try and get much cooler air into the intake, will be interesting to find out what fuel I can save..
Driving with cruise control on is LESS efficient than driving with it off. You can maintain a more constant speed with it off and thus gain better fuel economy.

Im looking at an additive on the Air box to try and get much cooler air into the intake, will be interesting to find out what fuel I can save..
If anything, this will probably increase your fuel consumption due to the larger amount of air being drawn into the engine. The computer will lean the engine out to the same air fuel ratio, so more air = more fuel.

That's odd. It's on the first page of 54p3118.pdf in mine.

I have no idea why they wouldn't have the power nos in the drivers handbook either. Maybe they thought that no-one would run on premium :confused:

I just don't see why they wouldn't have a knock sensor on them, especially as our fuel quality isn't the best over here in Australia.

People should read every post. Knock sensors are only there to provide protection against
pinging with bad fuel. To get power from higher octane fuel, you need higher compression
engine of at least 10:1 ratio (not 9:1) and the ability to advance base timing (on the 2nd
gens, twist the dizzy cap). There is no point in MMAL to list different powers from different
fuel as there is no difference in power.

If anything, this will probably increase your fuel consumption due to the larger amount of air being drawn into the engine. The computer will lean the engine out to the same air fuel ratio, so more air = more fuel.

More air to fuel means lean. So you mean the computer will inject more fuel to make it
rich to compensate the extra air.

If anything, this will probably increase your fuel consumption due to the larger amount of air being drawn into the engine. The computer will lean the engine out to the same air fuel ratio, so more air = more fuel.
I second that. Cruise control tend to keep the go pedal applied for longer periods an come
on earlier where as I can control my right foot way better with traffic condition input.

People should read every post. Knock sensors are only there to provide protection against
pinging with bad fuel. To get power from higher octane fuel, you need higher compression
engine of at least 10:1 ratio (not 9:1) and the ability to advance base timing (on the 2nd
gens, twist the dizzy cap). There is no point in MMAL to list different powers from different
fuel as there is no difference in power.
The knock sensors are also used when in a closed loop mode, when the ecu is attempting to run the engine as lean as possible without detonation. This is where the higher RON is most benefitial, as higher afr's can be held without detonation occuring.


More air to fuel means lean. So you mean the computer will inject more fuel to make it
rich to compensate the extra air
Not to make it rich. The afr will remain pretty much the same with the both air types, but as the cooler air is denser, more fuel will be required to maintain that afr.

...The computer will lean the engine out to the same air fuel ratio....

Lean is more air to fuel and rich is more fuel to air. I was just stating that you saying the
computer will lean the engine out when there is more air is wrong. I'll inject more fuel to
make it less lean.

Driving with cruise control on is LESS efficient than driving with it off. You can maintain a more constant speed with it off and thus gain better fuel economy.


Nah thats where I have to disgree, the amount of roads out here that are flat and have distances of over 300 plus klm... I dont drive in cities, n when I do the cruise isnt touched... but out on these roads, you need it and it does help...

Nah thats where I have to disgree, the amount of roads out here that are flat and have distances of over 300 plus klm... I dont drive in cities, n when I do the cruise isnt touched... but out on these roads, you need it and it does help...
If the road you're driving on is dead flat with no undulations or corners then cruise control will be about the same as controlling the throttle yourself. If the road has hills, corners and undulates etc, then controlling the throttle yourself will be better on fuel than using cruise control. That's just a fact.

[QUOTE=Disciple]If the road you're driving on is dead flat with no undulations or corners then cruise control will be about the same as controlling the throttle yourself.


Yep ur pretty right with that, thats exactly what these roads r like

If the road you're driving on is dead flat with no undulations or corners then cruise control will be about the same as controlling the throttle yourself. If the road has hills, corners and undulates etc, then controlling the throttle yourself will be better on fuel than using cruise control. That's just a fact.

You beat me to it. Here (http://www.eartheasy.com/live_fuel_efficient_driving.htm)is also a link on how to save fuel. The cruise control tends to
change down a gear too late when climbing hills using more fuel as the engine is labouring
and also tends to let go of the accelerator to late when starting to go down hill.

What about in a manual?

What about in a manual?
It's the same in a manual. When you break it down, you've got cruise control on and you're heading up a hill, the cruise control will force the car to use as much throttle as is needed to get up the hill at the set speed. If you're controlling the throttle yourself, you can keep the throttle at the same level then make up the lost speed down the other side of the hill.

place a brick under your accelerator pedal.. i guarantee you will save fuel

All I know is that I wont get any better economy by using the trottle maually, plus the fact that I couldnt be bothered driving distances without using the cruise...but what the thread has asked what mods will improve it.... Headers are a great start

place a brick under your accelerator pedal.. i guarantee you will save fuel

:badgrin: . The way I drive is as follows (albeit for a 5spd tippy auto).

Accelerate moderately in 1st to 10kph and shift to 2nd,
accelerate moderately in 2nd to 20kph and shift to 3rd,
accelerate moderately in 3rd to 30kph and shift to 4th,
accelerate moderately in 4th to 40kph and shift to 5th, and
accelerate moderately to the desired 50/60 kph speed.
By accelerate moderately, I mean don't let it rev past 2500rpm in 1st and 2000rpm for the
other gears.

However, If there is a hill climb, or higher speeds than 60, I hold the 2nd and 3rd gears to
2500rpm.

I chuck it down a gear or two when rounding corners so that the engine does not struggle
and this is better than a kickdown.
But, once in awhile, I let it rip and reach 5000rpm in the first 3 gears :badgrin:

Im with you there man why have all that power and only doing 2000 to 2500 RPM's when in my car instead of getting to 60km in three gears (that right I have a automatic) i can get to 60km in first @ 5500RPM's :badgrin:
I would say that’s probably not that fuel efficient but I get to race d#*! head commodore drivers off a set of lights and TRY AND BEAT THEM, no offence to commodore drivers or the car.:redface:

I second that. Cruise control tend to keep the go pedal applied for longer periods an come on earlier where as I can control my right foot way better with traffic condition input.

Cruise control for city driving it pointless. For highway driving on roads that aren't too hilly then cruise control would be beneficial. In hilly areas if you're concerned about the fuel you'd probably let the speed drop back a bit up hills and let it regain going down, whereas with cruise control on it puts in the fuel on the incline to try and keep the speed...

So whether or not cruise control is more efficient depends on the driving situation.

EDIT: I didn't read the next page! lol, most people are saying the same thing :) anyways the comment about changing gears, I wouldn't necessarily agree with that...

If I change to 5th gear at 40km/hr the engine would seriously be on around 720rpm, lower than idle speed! You'd actually use more fuel getting it to 60 km/hr than you would if you were in 3rd or 4th. It bad to strain the engine!

Now someone did say that some of the later cars manual rev's at like 2600rpm or something at 110? Sounds like they were going to make it a 6 speed gearbox and forgot to add on overdrive (6th gear).

I don't know what they'd be revving at in 5th at 40km/hr, but even if its 2600 rpm at 110 km/hr then 5th gear at 40 would still be too much.

The later 3rd gens are geared shorter, not sure if the Ralliart has shorter gearing still, but at 110km/h in 5th mine sits on 2850rpm. If I have a longish stretch of 60km/h I'll put it in 5th because the engine still has stacks of torque. Not 40km/h, but definately 60km/h. It's a bit annoying sitting on 2850 rpm cruising in 5th on the highway at 110km/h, but it still averages 8L/100 at that speed on those revs so I'm not too concerned.

Cruise control for city driving it pointless. For highway driving on roads that aren't too hilly then cruise control would be beneficial. In hilly areas if you're concerned about the fuel you'd probably let the speed drop back a bit up hills and let it regain going down, whereas with cruise control on it puts in the fuel on the incline to try and keep the speed...

So whether or not cruise control is more efficient depends on the driving situation.

EDIT: I didn't read the next page! lol, most people are saying the same thing :) anyways the comment about changing gears, I wouldn't necessarily agree with that...

If I change to 5th gear at 40km/hr the engine would seriously be on around 720rpm, lower than idle speed! You'd actually use more fuel getting it to 60 km/hr than you would if you were in 3rd or 4th. It bad to strain the engine!

Now someone did say that some of the later cars manual rev's at like 2600rpm or something at 110? Sounds like they were going to make it a 6 speed gearbox and forgot to add on overdrive (6th gear).

I don't know what they'd be revving at in 5th at 40km/hr, but even if its 2600 rpm at 110 km/hr then 5th gear at 40 would still be too much.

I don't feel the engine struggling at all when shifting to 5th at 40 as long as you keep up
the juice as in the auto, the revs don't drop that much when shifting gears, it goes down
to like between 1000 and 1500. Mine revs at 1400 when doing 60kph. In fact, with the
380, the engineers deliberately made the trans shift to 5th at 40km/hr and with a taller 5th
gear in the auto then the manual, the auto 380s are actually more efficient then the
manual 380s.

The key with low rpm, for instance 5th at 40kph, is simply less throttle so that the motor doesn't labour too much.

You have to watch out though vlad, the ECU isn't as well tuned at high load, low rpm instances. It delebratly richens up the mixture and reduces timing to avoid that shudder feeling you get.

On big way of saving fuel I forgot to mention is not to drive at the front of the queue.

Mods do not increase the econemy at all.
I disagree.

An air filter that flows better, and a higher-flow exhaust will typically increase fuel economy.
However, often, the driver is too busy enjoying the extra power (with a heavy right foot ;-), and often won't notice the economy improvements.

Cheers,
Martin.

An air filter that flows better, and a higher-flow exhaust will typically increase fuel economy.
bringing up an old thread, i was just curious as to how you think a better flowing air filter gives better fuel economy? yes it lets more air through, but the computer senses this and adds more fuel in to keep the air/fuel ratio the same. when you let more air through the computer doesn't just keep putting in the same amount of fuel. the ecu is tuned to add a certain amount for fuel for a certain amount of air.
for example, if your ecu is tuned for a AFR of 12.0:1 it adds 1 part fuel to 12 parts air. if you put a higher flowing filter in that lets 10% more airflow in it won't make the mixture 13.2:1, the ecu will put more fuel in so it will be 13.2:1.1, which is the same as 12.0:1, but the amount of both fuel and air is greater.

as for fuel octane rating. on a car that is tuned for 91ron fuel, you won't see any gains in power or economy. higher octane rating doesn't actually mean bigger explosion. it means it is more resistant to pinging. higher octane fuels like methanol and ethanol have a much higher octane rating than gasoline, but have a lower explosion energy. so on a standard untuned car you will lose power, but if you advance the timing you can gain power. you can advance the timing because it has a higher octane rating, and you can advance it because when it burns it creates a lower combustion temp than gas, so it won't ping as easy for that reason also.

mods to get better fuel economy:
keep the stock air filter.
don't run a CAI (cold air is denser, so more fuel is needed to keep the same AFR),
extractors and exhaust can help provided you don't fang around listening to the noise,
advance the timing. this mod gives you more power without adding the fuel. in this case more power = less throttle needed,
make sure your thermostat is working properly. if doesn't close properly then you are running for longer on cold start enrichment.
keep your tyres up to pressure
run skinnier tyres. 235 tyres add more rolling resistance than 205 tyres, and bigger rims generally weigh more so it is a higher rotational mass that the engine has to turn.
make sure your O2 sensor is working properly
regularly clean your injectors. a dirty injector can dribble fuel in when not actually firing.

[QUOTE=burfadel]When you say "300 km out of a tank" do you mean by the fuel gauge or by the pump? Say if you leave an 8L safety, thats still 56L for 300km... 18.7L per 100km :shock: or even worse, if you really do leave 4L, that makes 20/100kmL...

Sorry about all that but thats um, impossible? So exactly how many litres do you use for that 300 km (disregard the petrol gauge)? Its possible that either the fuel gauge, voltage regulator, or the fuel sender unit may be faulty.


I am experiencing the same thing, i filled up a full tank about 50 Littre or more and im getting less than 350 km out of it. how do i check my voltage regulator or fuel sender unit is faulty or not?

i drive like a grandma and also is it normal that after filling petrol up , the petrol goes up really really slow. is there something wrong there?:rant:

bringing up an old thread, i was just curious as to how you think a better flowing air filter gives better fuel economy? yes it lets more air through, but the computer senses this and adds more fuel in to keep the air/fuel ratio the same. when you let more air through the computer doesn't just keep putting in the same amount of fuel. the ecu is tuned to add a certain amount for fuel for a certain amount of air.
for example, if your ecu is tuned for a AFR of 12.0:1 it adds 1 part fuel to 12 parts air. if you put a higher flowing filter in that lets 10% more airflow in it won't make the mixture 13.2:1, the ecu will put more fuel in so it will be 13.2:1.1, which is the same as 12.0:1, but the amount of both fuel and air is greater.

as for fuel octane rating. on a car that is tuned for 91ron fuel, you won't see any gains in power or economy. higher octane rating doesn't actually mean bigger explosion. it means it is more resistant to pinging. higher octane fuels like methanol and ethanol have a much higher octane rating than gasoline, but have a lower explosion energy. so on a standard untuned car you will lose power, but if you advance the timing you can gain power. you can advance the timing because it has a higher octane rating, and you can advance it because when it burns it creates a lower combustion temp than gas, so it won't ping as easy for that reason also.

mods to get better fuel economy:
keep the stock air filter.
don't run a CAI (cold air is denser, so more fuel is needed to keep the same AFR),
extractors and exhaust can help provided you don't fang around listening to the noise,
advance the timing. this mod gives you more power without adding the fuel. in this case more power = less throttle needed,
make sure your thermostat is working properly. if doesn't close properly then you are running for longer on cold start enrichment.
keep your tyres up to pressure
run skinnier tyres. 235 tyres add more rolling resistance than 205 tyres, and bigger rims generally weigh more so it is a higher rotational mass that the engine has to turn.
make sure your O2 sensor is working properly
regularly clean your injectors. a dirty injector can dribble fuel in when not actually firing.

hey mate, sorry to disagree here but ive done almost all of those mods and only noticed better economy.
igot exhaust extractors, K&N panel, CAI, run high octane petrol and with each of them, ive noticed their own improvements on performance and economy. imgettin 500km per tank city driving instead of 400km max

cheers big 4

hey mate, sorry to disagree here but ive done almost all of those mods and only noticed better economy.
igot exhaust extractors, K&N panel, CAI, run high octane petrol and with each of them, ive noticed their own improvements on performance and economy. imgettin 500km per tank city driving instead of 400km max

cheers big 4
You're noticing more power, so you don't have to tread as hard, the economy should stay the same if not get worse with a factory tuned ECU.

The key with low rpm, for instance 5th at 40kph, is simply less throttle so that the motor doesn't labour too much.

You have to watch out though vlad, the ECU isn't as well tuned at high load, low rpm instances. It delebratly richens up the mixture and reduces timing to avoid that shudder feeling you get.

I get that shudder feeling in my TE at idle. Does it mean revs are too low? Should I raise the idle?

You're noticing more power, so you don't have to tread as hard, the economy should stay the same if not get worse with a factory tuned ECU.

more power yes, but also moer economy. as i said, im gettin about 500km per tank average for city driving instead of just being able to pull 400km before the mods.

I haven't seen anyone suggest reducing your cars weight which makes components like brake pads last longer too. Spare wheel ,extra sub, tools last weeks groceries ....

I haven't seen anyone suggest reducing your cars weight which makes components like brake pads last longer too. Spare wheel ,extra sub, tools last weeks groceries ....

hahaha ohh thats what that SMELL is!!!..... the only problem with weight is ya car, its either there for a purpose or enjoyment... Yeah by all means if you were seriously racing, throw everything out, but too loose ya stereo for the sake of .2L/100 hmmm nah give me the noise :D... good call bout the groceries thou, its funny cos its true !

run space saver tyres. that will really help with fuel economy. drop a heap of weight as well as decrease rolling resistance.

I think I save about 30kgs by swopping between 2 Kicker L5's and 1 Earthquake 12"
Also around town I dont carry tools etc but when I go to Sydney I do.
Up hill that must help.

You're noticing more power, so you don't have to tread as hard, the economy should stay the same if not get worse with a factory tuned ECU.

depends, magna's run rich from a factory, it's healthy for longivity of an engine as the extra fuel means colder combustion.

So with a stand alone economy should increase (get better) as well.

Also i'd rather pay the extra 7$ a week on fuel to not give a ****... ie have nice wheels, and my subs at a later stage (none yet).

pretty much all cars run rich from factory.

Reduce weight: Remove all rubbish and anything you don't need. If mainly driving around town think about ditching the spare and running a can of goo or a space saver, especially if you run big wheels.
Reduce aero drag: Remove mudflaps, roof racks, driving lights etc. Loose the bodykits as well as they create drag as well as add weight generally. Fabricate grill blocks to plug the grill, watch the temp gauge! Keep the car washed and polished, clutching at straws I think but I know people who belive it.
Reduce mechanical loses: Run good quality synthetic oil in engine and transmission. Ensure the park brake is adjusted correctly, it shouldn't drag. Likewise ensure the wheel bearings are right. Use sensible sized wheel/tyre combos, NOT 20" chrome rims although the full face ones can actually be OK as far as aero.
These guys are serious :http://www.gassavers.org/

Just to let you know I have a TH 3.5 manual. on a recent run to Canberra I filled with 98 ron fuel, sat on about 110-120 all the way, highway and got about 7.8L/100kms

Higher ron fuel does seem to do a bit better job but I dont always see it as cost effective. But it does claim to clear the injectors and what not so I run through every few tanks

40 psi is not overinflation. Any thing less, especially with the weight of magnas at the front
will bulge out the tyres causing the sides to wear out faster than the centre.
With windows and A/C, yeah, I forgot to mention at what speeds. Pitty with the pillarless
windows that no window sock manufacturer has made one that you can have the window
down.

'bulging' doesn't mean its low in pressure...

'bulging' doesn't mean its low in pressure...

By bulging, I mean it is been squashed out. See attached pic.