Hello All

I've been having the same problems that a number of users have had with their 3rg Gens. Here's whats been happening:

Episode I (2 Months Ago)

So i start my car, it starts and then dies. start it straight after it does not start. Wait 5-6 seconds start it again, it runs fine.

This started happening more often. After posting here and getting some replies, took the car to K-Mart Auto checked the battery, battery was fine.

Took the car to Mitsu., they reseted the Base Idle for $45.

Seemed to fix it but now its back on.


Episode II 2 Months After


Its doing the same thing but less frequent (1 out of 10 starts). After reading a lot on here, its either the battery or the Ignition Barrel. My battery is from RACV and was changed about 1 year ago.

I would like to check the ignition barrel first and see if thats the problem. I don't know how to do it. I have no idea what it is, where it is located and what to do with it. I am BEGGING.
Can someone please help me find it and fix it.

I'm in VIC btw and would be grateful if someone helps me fixing it. I'll meet your demands for those willing to help :D

thank you

Citizen Insane

Calm down people. As tmichaelsons said, there's no harm in trying it.

I've had this exact same problem, with all the same symptoms you're describing. It turned out to be the interior light fuse. Check this fuse, it's in the engine bay box.

It's worth noting also that when this fuse blew, the ECU lost all memory. Including how to keep the car at idle, which meant that every time I took my foot off the throttle, the car went to idle but just died.

So after replacing the fuse, start the car cold and just let it idle for about 15 min, this will allow the ECU to "re-learn" how to keep the engine at idle.

Edit: Just read the end of your original description, where you changed the light bulb. This is how I blew the fuse too, so I'd say the fuse is definitely your problem. The fuse is in the engine bay in the yellow cradle.



Hypermagna

I had the same prob with my TH when I started it up the idol speed when to 1500 then dropped and stalled, it ended up being the idol solenoid and I blew a fuse for the interior light which killed the control locking as well :bowrofl: so if your car still stalled when you stop, get the person who services your car to check the idol solenoid.



Unciscor

Sounds like some sort of electrical problem, alternator, battery something along those lines.
try disconnecting the battery overnight and then reconnect and drive around the next day

it might act funny for about an 1hour of driving then it should settle down again.



These are some of the probs that can occure in a magna or any other car in fact so have a look at all of these things and if there are any probs after that you might have to get a FULL service done to your car SPAIR NO EXPENCE, or you might find your self using public transport from now on:bowrofl:

I used to have a similar problem in my import Skyline, the skylines have a thing with their airflow meters when they get a bit older. The car will suddenly die on you , and then can be restarted as though nothing happened. With the skylines it was because there were 'Dry' solder joints inside the airflow meter which could can be fixed by resoldering. However I don't think the Mitsi should really be suffering from this due to their 'newness', but it may be worth checking the error codes for airflow meter codes.
The skyline airflow meters also had probs with oiled air filters(i.e. don't overdue the oiling of the filters), as the oil deposits on the element and causes the airflow meter to give incorrect readings. The airflow meters were designed to burn off any normal deposits at startup by heating the element up, but this didn't seem to work as well once you started using K&N type air filters. The extra gunk on the element would make your fuel consumption a bit worse than it should be.

Not sure if the Magna airflow meter works the same but it may be something to watch out for if you have an oiled filter.

I would check the fuse as mentioned earlier but also another thing to look out for is the condition of your valves, on cold starts they might be restricting fuel flow, i would see if there is a blown fuse, or ECU problem first, if not get the valves checked out. To test if it is the valves, when you start the car up each time just keep your foot gently on the pedal, if the car doesn't turn off in the time it usually takes take it off, if it doesn't turn off then your probably in for valve or lifters which is somthing 3rd gens start havin troubles with usually around 120 000km.

Found this from a thread...

hi there,

sounds like the same problem i had with my car. where you place the key in the ignition their is any airel that attaches the ecu from the ignition block two wires green and red attached by a connecter. by word by Mitsubishi the connecter with the two pins after time heats up and come apart, just a little gap which is cause by the power through the ignition when you start the car over. to fixs the problem all you need to do is the remove the connect one wire at a time due to on the other side of the green and red wire their is the black wire, if wires are not connected probably like before with the connect car will not start.

that will fix your problem with the car not starting.

And this..

if it starts, revs up, and then shuts off.. id say its the battery thats stuffed, 99 per cent of the time on magnas, TE onwards.. if it cranks, and wont fire.. id say its the keyring antenna, the plastic ring around the ignition barrel for the immobiliser is stuffed.. not uncommon.. a simple and temp fix to that is to take the lower panel off, drivers side of dash.. and get access to the key ring antenna plug, disconnect it, reconnect it.. and then it should fire up.. only a temp fix, it will play up again.. the part price is under 50 bucks, and about 30 mins to install! remeber, if u wanna get the part, make sure u get the right one.. illumination, or no illumination!

And this...

Hey fencer assuming your car is still under warranty I think that should have been done under warranty.

If not under warranty then maybe they should have still done it cos it is a known problem certainly with TH ......although when I had mine done a few years ago they said they had not seen it in a TH at that time but the previous model all the time!

It is a loose wire behind where the ignition key goes.....mitsu have a fix for it which is just to resolder it I think....it was a while ago so not exactly sure of the remedy.

For the record the RAA guy got mine started by disconnecting the battery and reversing the leads (check that!!)....which resets the computer.
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