Hey guys and gals.

What damage can i do to the engine of my car if i dont replace the stem seals. Will any further damage be done.

Starting to get pretty smokey NOW.

Cheers.

basically ur cat converter will clog up a bit and u will go thru a shtttt load of Oil, thats the only problems the old TR had

Can gunk things up like plugs, manifold injectors,oxgen sensors,screw with the mixture and create pollution in the form of exhaust smoke which would not pass for a roadworthy or warrant here in NZ anyway.
They are not hard to fix,I done my own on the same type vehicle over two days using an air compressor to hold the valves closed,it made a noticable change to the engine and the way it performs including power and fuel economy.
If you dont know how get someone who does as things can get serious if done out of sync.

"Starting to get pretty smokey NOW."

Maybe a reason, amongst reasons, to pull you over and has ... Helo Helo Helo

I've replaced the valve stem seals twice in 12 months in my one.
What will happen is, oil will leak from your oil cap and down onto the starter motor.
Give it 2 months and you'll find yourself stuck at the most random time of day as the starter motor will completely fail. And let's just hope you're with NRMA road side assistance or you have a friend with you that can try starting the car while you use a metal bar to knock the starter motor till it works.

Definitely not impressive if you're with the mrs lol

Get them stem seals replaced, and take it to a good mechanic too!

"Starting to get pretty smokey NOW."

Maybe a reason, amongst reasons, to pull you over and has ... Helo Helo Helo
what drugs are you smoking?

that made no sence whatsoeva......

hahaha:stoopid: i thought the exact same thing

ROFL HAHAHHAHAHAHAHA :bowrofl:

helo helo helo
HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA that's a classic

ALIVE, I got it mate LOL

DIMI108, you freak!! Guess what happened on the F3 freeway on Wednesday night. Although the starter completely carked it.
-Tow Home $180
-New Starter and fit $395
-This info read by me before it happened, would have been priceless.

CHeers guys thanks for the input. Looks as though i should have dem seals replaced.

Cheers.

ALIVE, I got it mate LOL

DIMI108, you freak!! Guess what happened on the F3 freeway on Wednesday night. Although the starter completely carked it.
-Tow Home $180
-New Starter and fit $395
-This info read by me before it happened, would have been priceless.

CHeers guys thanks for the input. Looks as though i should have dem seals replaced.

Cheers.
Aw bummer man! I told you so!
Next time the seals are gone, we have to fix them asap! Especially when you notice you pull up at the lights and you smell burning oil, or see a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Get it fixed! Borrow money if you have to! But just don't get stuck! It's the worst :doubt:

Stem seals are easy to replace and would only need doing twice if not done the right way the first time around.

Can do these easy head on, just do not drop a valve.....

Aside form the smoke and the law defecting your car for excessive smoke, there is no real damage done aside from your exhaust getting clogged up with carbon and your plugs getting fowled.

Stem seals are easy to replace and would only need doing twice if not done the right way the first time around.

Can do these easy head on, just do not drop a valve.....

Aside form the smoke and the law defecting your car for excessive smoke, there is no real damage done aside from your exhaust getting clogged up with carbon and your plugs getting fowled.

In theory, If for every cylinder you were replacing the stem seal on, couldnt you just rotate the crank so the piston was at TDC? then the valve wouldnt/couldnt fall?

Also Dimi what your describing has never happened to me and never has.
AFAIK i dont see why there would be/ could be smoke in the engine bay.

However this is my latest problem.
I have oil dripping out of somewhere and getting spun by some pulley all around the RHS of my engine bay, Tis dripping down onto the sump and exhayst manifold and getting burned.
So ive checked the crank seal (and had that replaced) and thats fine.
Now im just checking the cam seals so see if thats the culprite.....
Any other ideas???
(also changed the oil filter)

Yep same thing happened to me. Oil was dripping onto the exhaust manifold and i could smell the oil burning. Are you sure there is no oil dripping on your starter?
I think you should check because it'll only be a matter of time I reckon :cry:

']In theory, If for every cylinder you were replacing the stem seal on, couldnt you just rotate the crank so the piston was at TDC? then the valve wouldnt/couldnt fall?

Also Dimi what your describing has never happened to me and never has.
AFAIK i dont see why there would be/ could be smoke in the engine bay.

However this is my latest problem.
I have oil dripping out of somewhere and getting spun by some pulley all around the RHS of my engine bay, Tis dripping down onto the sump and exhayst manifold and getting burned.
So ive checked the crank seal (and had that replaced) and thats fine.
Now im just checking the cam seals so see if thats the culprite.....
Any other ideas???
(also changed the oil filter)

At TDC you will not lose the valve all together, it will be a prick to get back though. There are 2 methods, use some thin rope in through the plug hole, turn the piston up to TDC and push the valve closed.

The other method, my preffered method, is to use sompressed air, use a regulator to control the pressure. lock the crank with the piston again at TDC.

When you say RHS you mean pass side? which is actually LHS. Is yours a v6 or 4cyl. oil can come from the rocker cover or front seal and that is about it unles the return chanel on the head gasket has sprung a leak but I have yet to see that on a magna motor.

I had _x_FiReStoRm_x_ Just check it out and he said it wasn't looking good.
He said it could possibly be an oil chamber on the head...
There is a nice pool of oil sitting between the intake manifold and the head on the LHS bank (front bank) but there is no other oil to be seen.
On the rear bank he said there was some oil around there but it would be best to start the car and see where its dripping from.

I know the alternator had alot of oil on it, not too sure on the starter motor though.
Ill try and get some pics.
Being xmas getting a mechanic now is almost impossible....hell everyone needs a holiday!

Dimi where was your oil leak coming from? I know its not the cam or crank seals. which basically leaves the HG in question and well maybe the sump gasket but i havent touched or changed that....

"Starting to get pretty smokey NOW."

Maybe a reason, amongst reasons, to pull you over and has ... Helo Helo Helo

wtf? iom pissed and eb=ven i dont know wtf iur on about. :confused:

Having done valve stem seals in a 3.0 V6 just remember, as stated the best method is the compressed air method, works a treat ... BUT

If one of the cylinders has a valve which is not seated correctly due to wear of the valve seat, as the compressed valve spring is removed, the valve can drop straight down and touch the piston top. Because the gas is actually bypassing the valve seat and there is reduced compression.

Your heart goes ....., instant dry lips ....., sweat beeds from the brow ...., followed by shortness of breath. Then the brain kicks in.

Go to Repco and get an extendable magnet, gadget. Carefully pull the valve back up the valve guide and grab hold of it.

Also works when doing the back bank of three when the day is late, your back hurts and you have had a brain faid and bumped the valve in yourself.

Not a bad job, definitely cheaper than sending it out.

Hope this helps.

Tufftr, check your rocker cover gasket, if it has gone hard which is more than likely the case you will get oil in the valley.

Best to clean it and then run the car to see where it is coming from

In relation to the stem seals, if you hear a lot of air bypassing the valve, you really should get this attended to as it will not be long before your valve is burnt out

Whipe the rocker cover around the oil cap clean. Drive it for around 15 minutes and give it a hit. Pull over check if there is any oil seeping from the oil cap. Replacing the oil cap for a new one wont solve the problem. If oil is seeping from the oil cap on the 6G72 then there's no doubt the leaking oil will be dripping onto the starter :cry:

Let us know how it goes paul :D

Ahh thanks for the tip Dimi!
Madmagna - would this be the case even with a new rocker cover gasket thats only 1500ks~ old?
I will see that this gets replaced though. Thanks for the tip!

If you didn't silicone the gasket in the 4 places indicated in the workshop manual then it is likely to leak even when only 1500 Km old. Its not too late to do this.

A new seal under the filler cap and a re-tensioning of the clip that holds it on is beneficial in stopping leaks from the cap.

Rob

Ill be replacing that gasket tomorrow.
could of been only a mm or two i didnt silicon and well theres one part done.
Thing is ive been driving around for a little while with the oil everywhere so its pretty much everywhere under the car.
Tomorrow ill be cleaning it all up and yeah hopefully it aint major
Cheers

You do not Silicone ANYTHING on a motor which rund ULP with cats on them. You use propert silicone free automotive sealant!!!!

The gaskets can be put on sealant free without leaks if you have good covers and they have not been over tightened.

Another thing to replace are the rubbers under the bolt washers.

Use some SEALANT on the gasket between the gasket and cover where they curve over the cam and also on the 4 corners on the gasket.

If you are losing that much oil, the most likely thing is that one has twisted when installed, this happenes now and again

You do not Silicone ANYTHING on a motor which rund ULP with cats on them. You use propert silicone free automotive sealant!!!!

The gaskets can be put on sealant free without leaks if you have good covers and they have not been over tightened.

Another thing to replace are the rubbers under the bolt washers.

Use some SEALANT on the gasket between the gasket and cover where they curve over the cam and also on the 4 corners on the gasket.

If you are losing that much oil, the most likely thing is that one has twisted when installed, this happenes now and again

Heheh sorry about that, I mean SEALANT (not silicon sorry)

I did the whole gasket though....not just the 4 corners...just to be safe.

And yeah its possible its twisted...Tomorrow shall reveal all

see attachment.

Rob

']Heheh sorry about that, I mean SEALANT (not silicon sorry)

I think it was my silicone comment that caused that but I am not aware that silastic is not silicone. I am aware that neutral cure must be used under the bonnet.

Rob

i put the silicon on but i put it around the whole gasket not just in those areas.
Still have to put the pulleys on atm and run it for a while
i have a major CBF Factor atm cause in my head she'll work then she'll stop working on me again.
Really sucks ass

So far changed the oil filter crank seal and front rocker cover gasket.
Rear cam seals and front cam seals looked ok

There is oil under the exhaust manifolds (few drops) on the rear bank
What else could it be?
Couldnt be a HG could it? Possibly?

i just did my valve stem seals, cam seals, timing seals and crank seal during the xmas break. took me a total of 3 days to do it, but would have been much less if the stupid pricks at the auto shops gave me the right mother ****en gaskets instead of pajero ones. Spacks.
all in all took me around a solid day and a half to do if i didnt have to drive everywhere.

while doing this i noticed something that surprised me big time! the little elbow pipe that is on the front and rear rocker cover was totally blocked withburnt oil. having this happen bassically means that the pcv valve was getting blamed for being blocked, when it was really the ghey elbows on the covers! soon cleaned them out now she is running fine.

i used the rope method while doing my seals. bit risky IMO because the rope doesnt always go under the valves when the piston is turned to TDC.

also recomended is to change the 2 O-rings on the dizzy. especially the big mamma which will set you back $6 from mits coz no other shop had them.

i just did my valve stem seals, cam seals, timing seals and crank seal during the xmas break. took me a total of 3 days to do it, but would have been much less if the stupid pricks at the auto shops gave me the right mother ****en gaskets instead of pajero ones. Spacks.
all in all took me around a solid day and a half to do if i didnt have to drive everywhere.

while doing this i noticed something that surprised me big time! the little elbow pipe that is on the front and rear rocker cover was totally blocked withburnt oil. having this happen bassically means that the pcv valve was getting blamed for being blocked, when it was really the ghey elbows on the covers! soon cleaned them out now she is running fine.

i used the rope method while doing my seals. bit risky IMO because the rope doesnt always go under the valves when the piston is turned to TDC.

also recomended is to change the 2 O-rings on the dizzy. especially the big mamma which will set you back $6 from mits coz no other shop had them.

Hi Everyone, I'm new to the forum. I found this topic to be interesting, as it may have some connection to a problem that I have with blowby gases in my Magna TS 3.0. When I bought the car second hand, there was a lot of oil around the engine bay, but the car ran well and showed no other symptons, and the engine seals had been replaced 1,000klms earlier. When I took it to my mechanic, 2 of the new seals had been distorted and was leaking oil. So we replaced those and checked the others. Within 2 days of replacing the seals, one of the new seals blew again. The mechanic said there was a build up of gases that the PCV valve could not handle to remove, so the next thing to go for the gases was the seals.

Instead of pulling the engine apart at more expense, we cut a slit in the rubber seal under the dip stick handle, and left that about 2 mm above the tube. This allowed for the excess gases to escape, and solve the problem. However, I do get oil around the front of the engine which I can put up with.

Now after reading Slyt6 post, where he mentions about 2 grey elbow tubes at the front and back of the rocker cover that were blocked by burnt oil, I'm wondering if they may have a connection with my problem. My mechanics on holidays at the moment, but would like to hear any thoughts about it.

Ozzcaddy

For starters these have a sealed crankcase and under no circumstances should the dipstick be modified, this in effect creates a vac leak.

If your idle and economy has not gone to the crapper, then I would say that your hoses are blocked, this will be an easy fix with some wire and carb cleaner