Looks like the front left speaker in my car has blown or it's making some really retarded crackling noise. I was gonna get it looked at to see if the speaker is blown before I made this thread, but I figured I'd just see what people think anyway. I know this is a common problem with 3rd gens, so has anyone actually found out exactly what the problem is?

If the speaker is blown, I'm looking at some new splits for the front. They'll be amped off a JVC KS-AX3500 http://www.jvccaraudio.co.nz/?p=p_56 which pumps out 55W RMS per channel. I'm after the best set of splits for my money for around $300. In saying that, I may spend a bit more, maybe up to $350.

Cheers.

What you generally listen to? Some that are worthy look ins:
Morel Pulse 6
PG R6.5comp
Crossfire X6
Boston Type S
Hertz HSK 165
Vibe SA/K-60
Focal 165V1
Diamond M361
Phass ER 6.5
Polk Db6500
Infinity REF6500C

+many more. :bowrofl:

If you stretch your buget to 500 you may paick up some second hand Dynaudio 240's or Boston Pro's. Properly installed and either will have you singing along to everything.

I did 2 layers of Dynamat then mounted the woofers to 18mm MDF which I painted to protect it from moisture. After this picture was taken I sealed the whole inner skin with anoyher layer of dynamat

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/Imgp0460.jpg

I listen to mostly alternative rock - Sevendust, Tool etc, but I also listen to stuff like Queen etc. I love sound quality but I can't see myself going all out with soundproofing etc. My local car audio store has a big sale on tonight up to 70% off tonight only and I know they sell Focal so I might go and check it out. I still don't know if the speaker is blown or if it's just a loose connection or what.

I listen to mostly alternative rock - Sevendust, Tool etc, but I also listen to stuff like Queen etc. I love sound quality but I can't see myself going all out with soundproofing etc. My local car audio store has a big sale on tonight up to 70% off tonight only and I know they sell Focal so I might go and check it out. I still don't know if the speaker is blown or if it's just a loose connection or what.

Any more then 20WRMS into that door and you'll want to soundproof if it mate, its amaxing what this stuff can do to the overall sound quality of speakers.

It wont take long to see if its a loose connection, so take the door trim off and have a quick geeze.
Either way a new set of speakers for yourself is an awesome xmas present :D

i pumped 50 odd wrms into my doors with no problem. ive never used sound deadener. I might use it on the golf, but i dont want to weigh it down too bad.

Well I went and bought some Eclipse SC8264's. http://www.eclipse-web.com.au/component/sc8264.html Getting them installed on saturday.

What does everyone think of these speakers? Any opinions? I'm about to go have them installed.

you are going to love those speakers
i had the 5 1/4" ones but recently sold them thinking that they wouldnt fit into the magna
biggest mistake that i made
they were clear as didnt crackle when turned up loud or distort
one of the best set of speakers that i have every listen to
i was going to buy another set but was think of getting the next set up then one with the 2 tweeters for one speaker with an 100watt rms
but they cost to much so i might just buy the same ones you got

thats what we got. friggen awesome quality. we run an eclipse amp that pumps 100wrms into them and they sound clear and crip and surprisingly bassy even at high volumes.

I can safely report they're unreal speakers. I'm pumping all of my amps power into them now (amp is 55W per channel, 4 channel amp, so is that 110W RMS? not sure) and running the 6x9's and 2" parcel shelf speakers off the headunit. The splits freakin rock. I had Breathe by The Prodigy up as loud as I could stand it on the way home and it was still clear as!

BTW - I picked them up at the Maroochy Car Sound sale the other night for $350.

so in other words your saying that the 4ch is bridged to make 2ch
i think it would be alittle more than that
get in you amp manual and it should say what it is in there
but it should be alright

Yeah it's bridged into 2 channels and just runs the front splits. I don't know stuff all about car audio. It's this amp http://www.jvccaraudio.co.nz/?p=p_56 and it's bridged to run just the front splits, so yeah...

good price :) we payed $450 about 6 months ago - well worth it though

So can someone tell me how much power that amp is putting into the speakers? I don't wanna blow these ones up. :confused:

cant seem to find the info that im looking for on the amp
have you still got your owners manual?
should so what it is in there
but im thinking that the amp is prducing more than 120watts rms at the moment

cant seem to find the info that im looking for on the amp
have you still got your owners manual?
should so what it is in there
but im thinking that the amp is prducing more than 120watts rms at the moment
No I don't have the manual. What info do you need that isn't in this link? http://www.jvccaraudio.co.nz/?p=p_56

* Continuous power (RMS) of 55W/channel, into 4 ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz, at less than 1.0% total harmonic distortion
* Max. Power Output of 580W
* 4- or 3-Channel Operation
* Class-AB Circuit
* MOS-FET Power Supply Converter
* Variable Input Level Control (0.3 - 6V)
* HPF/LPF/OFF Switch
* Gold-Plated Input Terminals (Power)
* Gold-Plated RCA Jacks
* Speaker Input Connector
* Balanced Input
* 2-ohm Stable Operation
* Over-Temperature Protection
* Overload Protection
* Short Circuit Protection
* DC Offset Protection
* Soft Start
* Anti-Pop Circuit

Just set your gains right.. You can run speakers that can handle 100 w rms with a 1000w rms amp if you set the gains right.

To set them turn the gains on the amp to the minimum, turn the headunit to the highest point without distortion.
Slowly raise the level of the gains until you start to hear breakup/distortion, then dial the gains back a bit.

This way means that you get full use of your headunits dynamic range. Ideally when you want to pump it, the headunit should be at 90%-100% of its volume. Say you have an alpine unit the volume goes up to 35. When i have my system cranked it sits at 35. So therefore I have 35 options for volume

Unlike many other people who just sit the gains on max - they may not be able to turn the volume up past 15, they only have 15 options for volume. And usually this will result in a drunk friend cranking the stereo up and blowing the speakers.

The Gain setting is not a volume control and your amp will not be able to put out more clean power than its rated at.

Peace

Tim

http://jvcmobile.co.uk/documents/products/KS-AX3300.pdf

seems like its still only 110W RMS x 2, cant see nething that says its nething but that

http://jvcmobile.co.uk/documents/products/KS-AX3300.pdf

seems like its still only 110W RMS x 2, cant see nething that says its nething but that

maybe yes, maybe no
it would be alittle more than 110watts when the 2 channels are combined
my 4ch amp is 25x4 at 4ohms but when i brigde 2 of the channels it gives my 100watts at 4ohms, so i dont know

disciple the info i was after is what output you would get if you bridge the amp, this info is normally in the manual, s_tim_ulate has given a good description on how to set your gains to the right level

I think my headunit (AVH-P5700DVD (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069872_192089338,00.html)) goes to 35 but I'm not sure. If I crank it I'll listen to it at about 23.


http://jvcmobile.co.uk/documents/products/KS-AX3300.pdf

seems like its still only 110W RMS x 2, cant see nething that says its nething but that
I've got the KS-AX3500 not the 3300. I think they're different.

Yeah thanks for the info. I'm not too worried about the gain levels. The guys who installed the speakers seemed to have done a good job of making my system sound damn nice.

As Timmy said Just set up the amp right.
theres a tutorial on car audio australia.

Also being bridged I'd expect it to put out Over 200WRMS (So thats 2 x 200WRMS)
So id turn down the gains a bit.
Take a pic?

When you bridge an amp internally you are loading down each channel. Eg each channel goes from seeing a 4 ohm load to a 2 ohm load. The power output from each channel will approx double, but this comes at the cost of reduced control of the moving mass. (aka dampening)

Unlikely that you will notice any ill effects and these will be outweighed by the additional headroom so your amp won't be 'sweating' as much to get the same output.

All in all lots of power, but as long as its clean your speakers will be able to handle it. Most people who blow speakers don't blow them by feeding them too many watts RMS per se. Instead from driving an amp to clipping by asking too much from it. A common example is a stock headunit - A stock headunit can't put out that much power, but when it is driven to clipping it can still do a lot of damage to a speaker.

All in all more power is always good, use your ears to know when your music is clipping and set the gains. You should be able to turn your headunit up to 33 happily.

Peace

Tim

Thanks for that info. I might take a look at the gains this arvo when I get home from work but it's sounding really good atm and I really don't wanna stuff it up.