Alright, Who has that program that tells you the optimum box size for your sub 'cause Matt gave it to me ages ago but it seems it's lost and I don't have the time to find it on the interweb. Another question, which I am unsure of, I'm thinking the answer is 'No' but I may as well ask anyway.

If the optimum says say.. 450x350x350 LxWxH, can i make it thinner but wider to keep the same Volume? or does it HAVE to be the right LxWxH in that exact order?

someone email the program to me.

nickandalicia@aanet.com.au

Thanks.

i know the program your talking about...... cant think of the name though :P as for your other question, yes, you can do that, but the lenght you take off from one section has to be added on to the hight or width blah blah etc... to keep it the same volume

Another question is this.. My sub is a JL10w3d, the manual says its a dual 2ohm dual vc sub with a 250wrms rating, however my amp is the Response AA-0424 or whatever which is 150WRMS x 2@4ohm or 255WRMS x 2@2ohm or 500WRMS x 1@4ohm.

I currently have the sub in series which makes a 4ohm load but as you have noticed, it is twice the RMS power needed, is there anyway I can crank the sound but not blow the sub?(a different set up?) If I run the sub in parallel it makes a 1ohm load so thats out (it's only a 2ohm stable amp) Amps only make the top WRMS power when they're cranked totally don't they? I'm thinking if i never totally crank it i wont blow it but thats **** all of a garuntee

The only other thing I'm thinking is maybe give in the JL 10" for 2 cheap 12vers even though it probably wont sound the same (the JL is awesome) but i really don't want to blow it and have no bass for a long time, just sell the JL while its still kickin' away.

I want another 10w3 and I'll be chipper but the only ones i can find about are v2's (300wrms) and they're just about $300 or a touch over, for that I can get a 12 which will move more air and make more bass..

HELP.

if you wire the sub up as 4ohm and turn the gain down to around half way on the amp then you should be fine (when channels are bridged)
if you wanted to add another one of the same sub then you would have enough power for both

the thing is, i could pick up 2 ok 12" for the price of another JL10" (inc sale of this JL) so i don't know if it's worth it.

Alright, Who has that program that tells you the optimum box size for your sub...That would be a great program. - any luck?

Also, I was once told you should look at some of the following item/specs too (when designing the box):
Qes
Qms
Qts
Vas
Xmax

:confused:

the thing is, i could pick up 2 ok 12" for the price of another JL10" (inc sale of this JL) so i don't know if it's worth it.

its really up to you, but all i was saying that if you wanted to add another sub then you'll have enough power to run them both without having to go and buy another amp

I think the programe that you are after is called AJ Sealed and AJ Vented Designer 2.0. www.ajdesigner.com.

nah its an actual microsoft/windows program, great program when ya get it all figure out

i'd go with another JL 10. i am so impressed by JL's it's ridiculous. such a good sub for the power they require.

Another question is this.. My sub is a JL10w3d, the manual says its a dual 2ohm dual vc sub with a 250wrms rating, however my amp is the Response AA-0424 or whatever which is 150WRMS x 2@4ohm or 255WRMS x 2@2ohm or 500WRMS x 1@4ohm.

I currently have the sub in series which makes a 4ohm load but as you have noticed, it is twice the RMS power needed, is there anyway I can crank the sound but not blow the sub?(a different set up?) If I run the sub in parallel it makes a 1ohm load so thats out (it's only a 2ohm stable amp) Amps only make the top WRMS power when they're cranked totally don't they? I'm thinking if i never totally crank it i wont blow it but thats **** all of a garuntee

The only other thing I'm thinking is maybe give in the JL 10" for 2 cheap 12vers even though it probably wont sound the same (the JL is awesome) but i really don't want to blow it and have no bass for a long time, just sell the JL while its still kickin' away.

I want another 10w3 and I'll be chipper but the only ones i can find about are v2's (300wrms) and they're just about $300 or a touch over, for that I can get a 12 which will move more air and make more bass..

HELP.
Just turn the gain down and crank it hard making sure that the sub isn't polling ie cone popping and it should be fine id stick with a single quality sub over two **** mass produced poor sounding subs plus 2x12's takes up so much room and weigh so much anyway just some food for thought

Alright, Who has that program that tells you the optimum box size for your sub 'cause Matt gave it to me ages ago but it seems it's lost and I don't have the time to find it on the interweb.

Is it this (http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32354)?

nah its an actual microsoft/windows program, great program when ya get it all figure out

WinISD i think... from memory.. havent used it for years though.

I was thinking perhaps selling the JL and getting a bigger JL or something that could handle 500wrms.. I need a new enclosure though, I have a 10w0 ported box and it just doesn't do what i've heard alpine's do and I know this sub is better than a type S 10"

That wasn't the program either! :cry:

I'd personally go with a 12" in sealed box but thats my choice i listen to a lot of techno so i like the fast sharp bass which is harder to obtain from a ported box. I have a 15" hertz and tried ported but ended up just sealing it it sounded so much better, i know 15's arent known for sharp bass response however its has an extra light cone construction which means it has no problems moving air as fast as any 12". You have to remember to that that amp is rated at 500WRMS at 14.7V even a 1 volt drop can result in a lot less power output from the amp something like 10% voltage drop = 20% power drop. I checked my batt voltage and it was down at like 13.8V so even if you get a sub with less than 500WRMS power handling it wont matter because its more than likely not getting 500 anyway plus its probably better to have a more powerful amp rather than a better power handling subwoofer as to avoid clipping and burning out voice coils. I would also look for a subwoofer with a reasonably high sensitivity rating around 90db or higher this means at 1 watt at 1m the speaker produces 90db of sound (my 15 is rated at 103 db which is awesome) so in other words you wont need as much power to produce the same volume hence the sub will more than likely be louder. I hope this is info is somewhat accurate and helpful.