Picked a Verada clock from the wreckers but can't get it to work, rather than continue to try to connect it permanently, would it do any damage to connect direct to the battery for testing purposes.
I can't get neither the clock or illumination to work.......a dud maybe??
Am going.........
Red/Black constant power
Green/White Illumination
Black/Yellow earth for light
Black earth for clock

If I connected the Red/Black to positive on the battery, and Black to negative the clock should work????.........that right??

yeah should be fine... Did u get a wiring diagram with it?

No diagram, am connecting the wires by the colours quoted from a previous thread.
I've connected direct to the battery and can't get anything....think it's broken...damn

There's might be a fuse in there, can you open it up?

Opened it up....no fuse...just a little circuit board with two lights and the clock face

If you just connected it straight to a 12v car battery, it is now broken. It would have fried it in a nanosecond.

Think it was broken to begin with, had connected it all up to the radio and cig lighter and there was nothing

If you just connected it straight to a 12v car battery, it is now broken. It would have fried it in a nanosecond.
12v is 12v... Its a 12v battery, no difference if you connect it to a 12v 100000amp transformer or a 12v car battery or a 12v 0.5 amp transformer.

Your entire car is connected to that same car battery using just wires.

Sounds like it was already cactus.

If you just connected it straight to a 12v car battery, it is now broken. It would have fried it in a nanosecond.

i just tried a 2nd gen clock red/blue +12v black -12v and pressed the - and + buttons and the hands moved. u wont see much movement unless u press the buttons.

12v is 12v... Its a 12v battery, no difference if you connect it to a 12v 100000amp transformer or a 12v car battery or a 12v 0.5 amp transformer.

Your entire car is connected to that same car battery using just wires.

You will find that anything that runs through a fuse box has fuse links which are current limiters.

Doesn't really help here, but I tested mine by connecting to the 12V line of a computer power supply. Just grab the red and black from a spare harddrive connector.

You will find that anything that runs through a fuse box has fuse links which are current limiters.

Fuses/PPTCs etc are in place for short circuits, ground engine stalls / current spikes and so on.

If what you are saying is true then any basic circuit on a 12v circuit with no fuse / current limiting would immediately blow. Go grab a 12v light and plug it into your battery with no fuse and you'll see the light will simply turn on and stay on until the battery drains.

It is a simple load on a circuit.
Assuming the battery will put out a constant 12v and the clock is working (no shorts etc) the resistance will be fairly constant.

Current = 12v / Resistance of the clock(ohms)

Therefore the Current will be constant and the clock won't blow up.

Peace

Tim

Any device will draw as much current as it needs at the rated voltage. If it draws more, the fuse will blow.

Hooking up a 5V device to a 12V Supply is when frying will occur.:P

For Plugpacks (AC/VDC Adapters) , always use one rated for higher current than you need. So if your device will draw 250mA, use a 300mA Plugpack. If it draws more than 300mA, the unfused Plugpack will overheat and blow up :shock: .

Similar to Car Audio. As Tim will tell you. :D