Hi, I'm looking at tidying up my wiring (and trying to get my speakers to one day go loud), I've currently got 2 gauge that is striped at the battery so that it's thin enough to go into the standard battery terminal (3 shops didn't have ring terminals for 2 or 0 gauge so i gave up), first question - just because this isnt a fantastic contact is this making much difference (i am gonna fix this very soon - just purely curious).

2 - Where the hell is the engine to chasis ground wire? Could someone maybe edit a photo with a circle around where the hell it is - please no technical terms i'm lucky if i can top up my wiper fluid!

3 - Negative battery terminal to chasis - seems straightforward but any location recommendations for the ground? Anything to watch out for?

4 - Alternator to battery wire - looks like a fun weeks work for upgrading this - is there realisticly any point at all - 0.00001 of a change in voltage drop doesn't count! Any shortcuts?

5 - Speaker wire - I'm running 400w rms (in theory) to my fronts, any BENEFIT in upgrading this over the 20gauge that I've currently got?

6 - a bit of a random question but has anyone had any NEGATIVE experiences with sound deadening (ie a waste of money) - currently at the level i listen to my music i have no road noise, no rattles, I smoke like a chimney so window is always down - would this make sound deadening unnecessary in my case (i know it will have some effect but im seriously sick to death with throwing lots of money away for VERY MINIMAL returns with car audio)

^^^^All this is for a 3rd gen TF, running a poor performing mid-range system (about 1800w RMS all up in theory)

- Daniel

Hi, I'm looking at tidying up my wiring (and trying to get my speakers to one day go loud), I've currently got 2 gauge that is striped at the battery so that it's thin enough to go into the standard battery terminal (3 shops didn't have ring terminals for 2 or 0 gauge so i gave up), first question - just because this isnt a fantastic contact is this making much difference (i am gonna fix this very soon - just purely curious).

2 - Where the hell is the engine to chasis ground wire? Could someone maybe edit a photo with a circle around where the hell it is - please no technical terms i'm lucky if i can top up my wiper fluid!

3 - Negative battery terminal to chasis - seems straightforward but any location recommendations for the ground? Anything to watch out for?

4 - Alternator to battery wire - looks like a fun weeks work for upgrading this - is there realisticly any point at all - 0.00001 of a change in voltage drop doesn't count! Any shortcuts?

5 - Speaker wire - I'm running 400w rms (in theory) to my fronts, any BENEFIT in upgrading this over the 20gauge that I've currently got?

6 - a bit of a random question but has anyone had any NEGATIVE experiences with sound deadening (ie a waste of money) - currently at the level i listen to my music i have no road noise, no rattles, I smoke like a chimney so window is always down - would this make sound deadening unnecessary in my case (i know it will have some effect but im seriously sick to death with throwing lots of money away for VERY MINIMAL returns with car audio)

^^^^All this is for a 3rd gen TF, running a poor performing mid-range system (about 1800w RMS all up in theory)

- Daniel

1. you really should have some form of termnal, i went to autobarn and they only had an 8 gague and i just drilled it out to the size of the 4 gauge

2. i think its on the left hand side of the looking from the front (not 100% sure)

3. just make sure you get a good connection, i'm gonna use a bit of 4 gauge for mine when i re do my boot in the holidays

4. i'm not sure what you going on about there

5. i've uped the thickness of my wire that came with my alpine speaker, i got the stuff from super cheap for about $5 for 6 meters, its good and cheap.

6.i'm eventually gonna sound deaden mine, when i get around to it, it is worth it (i think so any way), its expencive, one of the sponcors sells it on here so yea.

i hope that helped in any way it did, some of the other guys/girls may be anle to help you out a bit more

Hi, I'm looking at tidying up my wiring (and trying to get my speakers to one day go loud), I've currently got 2 gauge that is striped at the battery so that it's thin enough to go into the standard battery terminal (3 shops didn't have ring terminals for 2 or 0 gauge so i gave up), first question - just because this isnt a fantastic contact is this making much difference (i am gonna fix this very soon - just purely curious).

it is better to have as much of the wire in the terminal, you cant have a thick wire then just cut half of it down just to fit it into the terminal, should be able to go out and pick up a new terminal from an audio shop that lets you have 2ga wire


2 - Where the hell is the engine to chasis ground wire? Could someone maybe edit a photo with a circle around where the hell it is - please no technical terms i'm lucky if i can top up my wiper fluid!

there is quick a few ground wires in the engine bay, have you got the workshop manual for your car as this will be a good help when locating ground wires


3 - Negative battery terminal to chasis - seems straightforward but any location recommendations for the ground? Anything to watch out for?

a 4ga wire to anywhere on the side of the chassy inside the engine bay will be fine, just make sure it has a good connection to the chassy (no paint, just bare metal)


4 - Alternator to battery wire - looks like a fun weeks work for upgrading this - is there realisticly any point at all - 0.00001 of a change in voltage drop doesn't count! Any shortcuts?

upgrade your alternator if you want it to charge you battery quicker but the stock ones in the 3rd gens are pretty good


5 - Speaker wire - I'm running 400w rms (in theory) to my fronts, any BENEFIT in upgrading this over the 20gauge that I've currently got?

that wire will be fine to run your speakers, its only there to send the signal
the stock wire is pretty good to but upgrading is up to you


6 - a bit of a random question but has anyone had any NEGATIVE experiences with sound deadening (ie a waste of money) - currently at the level i listen to my music i have no road noise, no rattles, I smoke like a chimney so window is always down - would this make sound deadening unnecessary in my case (i know it will have some effect but im seriously sick to death with throwing lots of money away for VERY MINIMAL returns with car audio)

sound deadening your car just stops you hearing all of your panels rattle and also to block out road noise, it also makes your sound system sound soo much better

Argh apparently my car puts out 9 volts from battery with sound system OFF and doesn't get much (11volts with stereo off, lights off etc...) better when my (brand spanking new according to my mechanic) alternator is running and high revs...
This was just a volt reader that plugs into the ciggie lighter so I'm not expecting much in terms of accuracy but other cars were hitting 14ish volts lights on and all :(
Looks like it's more than wiring that needs fixing, does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem? This can't be good for my amps can it?

buy a multimeter and put it across the battery when the cars on and off, and isnt the ciggie lighter a 9volt out let??? pretty stupid to have a tester for the lighter when its a straight out 9 volt current

buy a multimeter and put it across the battery when the cars on and off, and isnt the ciggie lighter a 9volt out let??? pretty stupid to have a tester for the lighter when its a straight out 9 volt current


No. All cigarette lighter ports which are not called "accessory Ports" to be politicaly correct are 12V. You are able to get a 14V current out of these when the car is running as it is charging the battery and bringing it above its "float voltage" to charge it.


Just a hint though, don't try and McGyver something up to pull 14V or otherwise you will either end up with a flat battery or your alternator regulator (the black thing that looks like a matchbox) will need to be replaced and will cost about 180 bucks :(

on my KE Verada the chassis rail under the battery box on the passenger side is the earthing point for the battery.. and combined with barrys earthing kit it earths my radiator, alternator and engine to the chassis rail..

but thats just my .02 worth

Argh apparently my car puts out 9 volts from battery with sound system OFF and doesn't get much (11volts with stereo off, lights off etc...) better when my (brand spanking new according to my mechanic) alternator is running and high revs...
This was just a volt reader that plugs into the ciggie lighter so I'm not expecting much in terms of accuracy but other cars were hitting 14ish volts lights on and all :(
Looks like it's more than wiring that needs fixing, does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem? This can't be good for my amps can it?


Dude.. i take it you have at lease 2 amps that total about 1000w or more.. Even with the sterio off the amps will still draw a constant current.. not much, but over a few weeks, or if you have a new alternator, maybe a few months, you will eventually need a new battery or alternator.

My suggestion: Do what i did and put a Battery isolating switch on the main power cable to your amp if you can be bothered to turn it off all the time or put a switch into the ACC line (which will come from your ignition to your amp) and hide it in the center box under the pull out tray where the hand brake adjuster is. One simple flick of this switch (or taking the key out of the other) will cut power to your amp(s) and there will be no current drain.

BTW: DON'T let your acc line touch any bare metal in the center box.. i used a dick smith switch with spade terminals and i used covered spade terminals to plug into it from the line.
If your acc line happens to touch the metal.. go buy yourself another Ignition Fuse.. i blew 3 of them when i was putting my kit into my car.. but then again i had a bit of a different setup to above..

Hope this helps.

if your alternator reads any less than 13.8 volts at the batt when everything is off at idle, its broken.
thats all there is to it.
either that or your battery is shatted and drawing so much current the alt can't get the voltage up.. but in that case i would expect the car to not be startable in the morning.
i'd say you have voltage drop to your ciggie socket or your tester is buggered... either that or you are a smoker and the guts of your ciggie socket are so full of ash and crap that its causing voltage drop where the tester touches the centre pin of the socket...

Thanks for the tips, i'll maybe try another battery and see if it is sucking too much current, i have had a issue with dim headlights for a while now (not the one to the beat of the bass but faint lighting), this was before and after the new alternator that got replaced during 200,000km service.
I have currently got a multimeter at home too (just an el cheapo) - how can i use this to test the battery? Looks confusing!
Also a question to help with the theory - Just say the battery is shot and only doing 9 volts - will the alternator only raise it approx 2 volts anyway or shouldnt the car be running 13-14 volts regardless when the alternator is running?!

It might be worth posting the audio equipment your running to give everyone a better perspective. 400w RMS to the front sounds pretty excessive and is possibly a max figure.

I cant see anywhere your stated any actual issues with the system. I mean if your car starts fine and the system runs then don't try to fix what isn't broken. Sound deadening will help it sound considerably better, but you drive with the window open so either way can't expect good sound. Cheapest solution would be to quit smoking, your car won't stink and you'll be able to close those windows.

Also battery should be ~12V when car is off and ~14V when its on. If everything working and your getting a reading of 9V its probably your multimeter or a contact issue at the site your taking your reading.

Also a question to help with the theory - Just say the battery is shot and only doing 9 volts - will the alternator only raise it approx 2 volts anyway or shouldnt the car be running 13-14 volts regardless when the alternator is running?!

when the car is running the battery should be reading somewhere between 14.2 - 14.4 volts, if it is less than that the alternator isnt charging and if its over the altenator is over charging the battery which isnt a good thing. when the car is off it should read roughly about 12 volts or so, but it might be alittle more :confused:.