when i start my car there is a rattle type of noise coming from the engine but after i have taken it for a drive and let it idol its gone

also i have that stalling problem ive read about on here i toped up the battery and charged it yesterday so if it happens agian ill no it wasnt that

any advise on both things would be appreciated

tappet noise? (tick tick tick ?)
when u last change ur oil?

Could be your thrust bearing........wait auto or Manual

its an auto te 3L just got a service a week or 2 only had car since 17.11.05 so dont quite no it fully yet

Edit: with service got new timing belt hydeolic tensioner and engine mount

*Female Here lol*

Lifters? DH's Ford has a tapping noise that used to come & go, hes replaced the lifters and its gone.

My car has a bit of a rattle, i was told its some metal plate that sits near the exhaust and it has come loose? Who knows but its driving me insain!

Probably ya lifters mate

Nulon make some "lifter free" Stuff, For $10 ya could try that out

sorry bout this but could you explain what lifters are

sorry bout this but could you explain what lifters are

ya lifters are what opens and closes your inlet and outlet valves in your cylinders. they roll with the camshaft which is lumpy, thus making it open and close :D that help?

im sure someone else can explain it better than me

Just asked hubby bout this and he said everytime he did a oil change on his car the tapping noise got worse. Said somthing about removal of sludge blah blah blah lost him from there......lol

Bit of info, not sure if it helps or not....

Hydraulic Lifters / Lash Adjusters
Common Complaints

A common compliant of hydraulic lifters/ lash adjusters is noise emanating from the units, predominantly in the form of a ticking sound. In many instances this is diagnosed as component failure, however there are other factors which may be influencing the operation of the unit, that lead to the noisy operation.

During the normal service life of a lifter/ lash adjuster, the cam lobe will impact over 150 million times. In each impact, more than 1800 pounds of load is transferred. These units operate within a temperature range of –40 to +300 F. These are one of the most precisely manufactured components within an engine, with the internal tolerances sized in microns.

There are two main causes of noisy lifter operation. These are dirty motor oil and air in the oiling system;

Dirty Motor Oil
Due to the severe operating conditions, and fine internal tolerances, the hydraulic lifter/ lash adjuster is very sensitive to dirt or grit contained within the oil.
If dirt or grit is present to the lifter’s internal oil metering valve, the oil will not flow properly into the high pressure chamber, and noise will be apparent.
Use of dirty oil may result in sticking between the lifter’s plunger and body, rendering the lifter useless and noisy.
Air
Perhaps the single major cause of noisy lifter problems, and poor engine operation! When air is present within the oiling system and lifter, the lifter cannot maintain the desired performance. This is due to air being a compressible substance. With air present, the lifter plunger will sink at an incorrect rate under load, causing failure of the valve event (opening).
Air can become present in the oiling system for several reasons;

Low oil level, allowing air to be sucked into the oil pan pick up.

Cracked pick up tube or pipe, sucking air.

Too much oil in the crankcase – this leads to the oil becoming aerated and injected into the lash adjusters.

A simple method to identify if a lifter is properly filled with oil is to push down on the plunger by hand. If the plunger pushes down there is air inside the lifter, remembering that air is compressible. If the plunger is solid, only oil fills the internal chamber.

If there is air in the oiling system, which has resulted in noisy lifter operation, there is the possibility to bleed this through without having to remove the lifters from the engine. A suggested method is:

At normal engine operating temperature, with clean oil installed (and at the correct level), gradually open the throttle to approx 3000rpm over a 15 second interval, then snap the engine back to idle and leave at idle for another 15 second interval. Repeat this cycle 10-30 times while the vehicle is at “no load” conditions.

If the lifter noise has ceased after these cycles have been completed, chances are the lifters are now bled and operating as desired. It is still advised to perform the bleeding cycle about 5 more times, then allow the engine to idle for a further 3 minutes to ensure the noise does not return.
If after performing these cycles, the noise is still present, the lifters will need to be removed, cleaned and replaced as necessary, with checks also made on the oil delivery system and passages.

Some other tips to remember when installing hydraulic lifters / lash adjusters:
1. Thoroughly clean all components.
2. Never use magnetised devices for installation, as the may cause the lifter’s internal components to become magnetised themselves, and inoperative.
3. Check lifter housings for excessive wear.
4. Prime the lifters with new clean oil prior to installation.
5. After the cam and rockers are locked down, allow the lifters to bleed off (settle) for at least 30 minutes prior to starting the engine.
6. Ensure the oil levels are correct and always fit a new filter.

*PS...sorry for the long post lol*

']Probably ya lifters mate

Nulon make some "lifter free" Stuff, For $10 ya could try that out


I too didn't know what a lifter was, and seem to have this same noise...

does the "lifter free" stuff just go in with the oil?

should probably do an oil change soon! argggh

thanks for help with the noise will jump on that as soon as possible but does any1 have any idea about the stallin problem i mentioned

I too didn't know what a lifter was, and seem to have this same noise...

does the "lifter free" stuff just go in with the oil?

should probably do an oil change soon! argggh


Yes but they say do it with a new oil change

Does your car stall straight away after it starts, get your key barrel checked, happened to me and my mate, my old TF would just wind over till the batt died but other times would start fine and my mates TJ would start then stall (sometimes), my TF was in the shop about 6 times eventually(second visit to mitsu dealer) they worked out it was the key barrell, part of it is apparrently is the antenna for ecu/immobiliser it wares out or somthing same thing with the mate TJ his was done under warranty mine cost think it was only 90 bucks. Hope this all helps :)

yea thanks for that will look into it

it does start and then stall like there is no idol some times after driving for a bit the idol will just disapear and i have to double pedal to keep me out of trouble

worth checking that the idle speed servo is working. A search will give you results on how to check it.

Rob