PDA

View Full Version : Help Changing break pads



perry
10-01-2007, 08:36 AM
Hey guys and gals,

i have done a search and i could't really find anythink so...

I need to chnage the front pads break pads on my 1995 magna TS V6 and i was wondering how you you do it, is it hard or quite easy????

and also which is the best pads to get for it and i wont be using bendix from what i have read on these fourms

cheers

NORBY
10-01-2007, 08:43 AM
none of this is magna specific but this is what you do in MOST cars


take the wheels off

the where the caliper is there is probably 2 bolts at the back, undo those....then the claiper will lift up and off the rotor, you should just be able to push the brake pads out and replace them with your new ones.....its a pretty simple job just try not to put any pressdure on the brake fluid line because if it come off the caliper its a pain in the ass!

perry
10-01-2007, 09:32 AM
ok then, but i thought you had to bleed the lines or something

NORBY
10-01-2007, 09:52 AM
AFAIK you should have to unless you somehow took the brake fluid line off....but maybe your supposed to...i havent ever done it on any of the cars we changed brake pads on

perry
10-01-2007, 09:54 AM
thanks for that, which pads would be the best to get?

Scorpion
10-01-2007, 10:41 AM
You can make life easier by just loosening the top caliper bolt and removing he bottom caliper bolt. Then the caliper will swing upwards leaving the brake pads exposed for easy replacement. Tie a piece of string or wire through the bolt hole and around a coil of the spring to hold it up out of the way if you need to.

Put a socket inside the piston and use a 'G' clamp to push the socket towards the back of the caliper - this will re-position the piston so it will fit over the new (Thicker) pads. Replace the pads. Then lower the caliper over the pads and replace the lower bolt and tighten both.
( May have to slide the caliper in or out a bit to centre it over the new pads ).

Give the brake pedal a push or two to reposition the caliper and you are away. No need to undo brake lines or bleed them unless you want to ( every 12 months recommended ).

Open to suggestions on brake pads - depends on your driving style and everyone has an opinion.

Edit: Check the fluid level in your brake master cylinder before pushing the piston back as push the brake fluid back up the line into the m/c. If you haven't bled the brakes for a while or topped up your fluid this shouldn't be a problem.

Nexus
10-01-2007, 10:50 AM
Pics would be execellent for the steps written.

I have read this a few times only in the threads, being not confident enough, I have still approached mechanics for changing of brake pads as I am not sure which bolts were refered to etc.

I want to learn how to do this but I really would need someone to guide me in order to have a better idea. As brakes are very important, I have left it to the experts so far.

perry
10-01-2007, 11:14 AM
Pics would be execellent for the steps written.

I have read this a few times only in the threads, being not confident enough, I have still approached mechanics for changing of brake pads as I am not sure which bolts were refered to etc.

I want to learn how to do this but I really would need someone to guide me in order to have a better idea. As brakes are very important, I have left it to the experts so far.

i would have to agree with you there, but i would still like to know how to do it, if some one was close by where i live and they could give us a hand i would shout them a carton of beer :D

Meh
10-01-2007, 11:21 AM
changing pads are very very easy. but u should also check if yur disc's need machining aswell.

but as they have said. loosen the top bolt on the caliper and take off the bottom one then swing it up. us a g clamp to push the calipers open then put in the new ones bolt up and all good

Nexus
10-01-2007, 11:23 AM
I wouldnt mind that too. In fact I would also love to know how to install new disc and replace my worn ones. A carton of beer to learn is an ok price to learn or half a carton. lol

Meh
10-01-2007, 11:28 AM
I wouldnt mind that too. In fact I would also love to know how to install new disc and replace my worn ones. A carton of beer to learn is an ok price to learn or half a carton. lol

too bad yur not in qld ;) id help out no worries

ADZA27
10-01-2007, 11:35 AM
dude,
if you have beers i will do it for you...

perry
10-01-2007, 11:42 AM
dude,
if you have beers i will do it for you...

if you live near orange, ok then if anyone else is near orange and wants a carton of beer to change a set of pads pm me or msg me on 0427856427 :badgrin:

ADZA27
10-01-2007, 11:45 AM
damn... orange... :( meh im in the northern beaches... too far... too bad :bowrofl:

perry
10-01-2007, 11:50 AM
oh well no beer for you then :D

ADZA27
10-01-2007, 12:05 PM
pfft....
here is a quick rundown...

1. crack loosen the wheel nuts on the front only
2. lift the car (as well as open bonnet)
3. place stands under the vehicle
4. remove both wheels
5. take off the lower (closest to the ground) brake saddle bolt 15 and 17 spanner (the brake saddle will now be able to rotate on the top pin upwards and you will be able to remove the old pads.
6. (**tricky bit**) you will need a large flat screwdriver 15cm long(excluding handle) - what you need to do is force the plunger back in the caliper...
they way you do this is you place one new pad on the outer side of the disc (inside the saddle) and rotate the saddle downwards(like you are going to put the lower bolt back in...)
and then place the screwdriver between the disc and plunger (pull the screwdriver towards you) and you will force the plunger back..once you have forced it back enough then rotate the saddle upwards and place the other pad inside!
*****note.. if you don't have enough strength you can use the brake hose bleeding nipple and loosen it "slightly" with a 10 spanner so that you expel some fluid(this helps the plunger move back easier..)*****
7. close the saddle and use some red loctite on the lower bolt before you put it back in.
8. tighten the bolt and place the wheel back...
9. repeat on the otherside...
10. ENJOY!

perry
10-01-2007, 12:09 PM
ok thanks for that i will have a go at it on the week end and the other qoestion is which are the best pads to get, i don't wanna get bendix cause i have heard some bad stuff about them, are lucs any good??

ADZA27
10-01-2007, 12:31 PM
lol don't get bendix unless you have the correct rotors... otherwise the harder bendix pad will just chew ur rotors to pieces...
i use the bosch pads in mine and they go really well!

Nexus
10-01-2007, 12:49 PM
nice write up but I want pics! lol

What about the rear brakes are they the same procedure? I thought it would be harder as you need wheel chokes?

Phonic
10-01-2007, 01:55 PM
nice write up but I want pics! lol

What about the rear brakes are they the same procedure? I thought it would be harder as you need wheel chokes?

Bricks work well as chocks, otherwise the procedure is the same as for the front (unless your looking at changing the handbrake shoes(sp?)) :)

The Last Streetfighter
10-01-2007, 02:06 PM
Well if you have a model with 4 wheel disc brakes like "most" of us here, then it is essentially the same. About the Chocks: With your front end off the ground, your handbrake will hold the rear quite still. With your rear end off the ground, your auto should be in Park or your manual in First to keep the front end from rolling away.

I changed the rear pads and rotors (as the rotors were below min thickness) a few months ago on mine, but didn't check where the handbrake runs. Seems as though the missus has run a few times with teh H/B on and rooted the drums back there. Had to get them machined ($44 for the 2 off) and new HB Shoes ($90 for the 2). I had the shop do those for me.

Hey Scorpion: I didn't know you were a Magna Warrior too!

ADZA27
10-01-2007, 02:16 PM
yeh ok i will post up pics... ffs! lol
umm rear shoes are the same...although the brake line is shorter so you need to take out the clip that holds the brake line and slide it out of the bracket.. (or just undo the bracket lol)
handbrake is a different story...little bit harder to do...

Nexus
10-01-2007, 02:21 PM
Thanks man.

If you really show the pics as step by step I would really appreciate. Is not easy, and don't actually expect anyone to show them.

DjClarky
10-01-2007, 03:18 PM
Doesn't anyone bother putting a bit of copper grease on the BACK of the pads anymore (not on the contacting surfaces) to help em bed in and stop em squealing?

It's the way I've always done it..

perry
11-01-2007, 08:05 AM
when i have a go at mine ill make take photos and do a write up, with the instructions from ADZA27 (if thats ok) and ill post it up somewhere.

ADZA27
11-01-2007, 08:07 AM
yeh no worries but i will throw some pics up tonight maybe..
depends if i could be bothered taking a wheel off :P
considering i was working on a *** lexus till midnight last night.. and i am tired as..

perry
11-01-2007, 08:09 AM
yeh no worries but i will throw some pics up tonight maybe..
depends if i could be ****d taking a wheel off :P
considering i was working on a *** lexus till midnight last night.. and i am tired as..

thanks for that

Nick
11-01-2007, 04:47 PM
I use Bendix pads, premuims. Stop well, and from what i've done - little fade.