well`i was wondering how u can tighten the alternator belt in my 1993 V6 TR Magna cheers heaps, and yes i have tried searching and i couldent find any thing :(

should be able to tighten it with the tensioner that is almost directly above it

i believe clockwise will tighten it or put more tension on it

cheers mate ill give it a try

should be able to tighten it with the tensioner that is almost directly above it

i believe clockwise will tighten it or put more tension on it

Correct.
You may have to break the nut that holds the tensioner on or else you can tighten/loosen it and it will not go anywhere

']Correct.
You may have to break the nut that holds the tensioner on or else you can tighten/loosen it and it will not go anywhere

what do u mean by breaking it? this dosent make sense, any help would be greatly welcomed

He means loosen off the lockbolt slightly. If it is like the one on 4 cylinders, the lockbolt is horizontal. The tension adjusting bolt is more or less vertical (or perhaps on about a 60 degree angle). Anyway, first loosen the lockbolt slightly. Then use the tension adjusting bolt to tighten the belt. Finally, tighten up the lockbolt again.

The bolt they are saying to loosen is in the centre of the idler pulley.

Then screw the tensioner bolt near it to adjust the tension and finally re-tighten the bolt in the centre of the pulley.

Rob

there are two tensioners, theres one directly below the obvious one.
break the bolts (make them loose but dont take them off) then loosen or tighten whichever you want then tighten the bolts you broke to begin with. simple.
Magnabuff where art thou?

I think you will find that the TR V6 6G72 only has one tensioner for the alternator belt and one for the air conditioning.

Rob

I think you will find that the TR V6 6G72 only has one tensioner for the alternator belt and one for the air conditioning.

Rob

my bad, i drive a 4 cyl. missed that bit

there are two tensioners, theres one directly below the obvious one.
break the bolts (make them loose but dont take them off) then loosen or tighten whichever you want then tighten the bolts you broke to begin with. simple.
Magnabuff where art thou?


ok so far im still nowhere since i have the V6 6G72:D , so if possibal can some one show me how do do this, by drawing a diogram or taking some pictures, your help would be greatly appreciated since im sick of hearing the belt slip every now and then :( wow im such a noob

any one? :cry:

here's an idea. take some up close pictures of ur engine bay then we can point out where it is. i don't have a v6 so im not sure where it is but if u take a few pics from either side then i could see it and point it out to u.

this is a v6, trying to show where it should be













this is the 4cly set up to give u an idea of what they should look like . it won't be the same but will give u an idea on what to look for

Anyone got the fix for a TH sports 3.5?

The nut is a 14mm nut in the middle of the idler pully

The 4cyl and the 6cyl both have 2 adjustements, one for the air con and one for the alt/pwr steering

Simple rule really, if you can not find it or work out how to do it, perhaps get it done as if you overtighten it you can damage the alr or pwr steering pump

should be able to tighten it with the tensioner that is almost directly above it

i believe clockwise will tighten it or put more tension on it

Is this referring to the 4cyl or the 6?

I've got a 6cyl TS, and I'm pretty sure the tensioner bolt has a right-hand thread (ie. turn it right to drive it in). Also, the belt runs beneath the pulley, so moving the pulley up with loosen the belt, while moving the pulley down will tighten the belt.

Keep in mind that the bolt is essentially fixed in position and it is therefore the pulley that moves in response to turning the bolt in the appropriate direction. This effectively reverses the 'conventional' effect produced by turning the bolt. ie. when you turn the bolt to the right (clockwise) the pulley will move up the bolt towards the head, effectively loosening the belt. Conversely, turning the bolt to the left (counter-clockwise) will cause the pulley to move away from the head of the bolt and thereby tighten the belt.

In a more 'conventional' situation, the object the bolt was through would be fixed, and so turning the bolt clockwise would drive it deeper into the object (towards the head of the bolt), so if the bolt itself is fixed then the object must turn instead and still move towards the head of the bolt - which as I said, would have the effect of loosening the belt in this instance given the direction of the thread.

EDIT: definitely turn clockwise to tension on the 6 cyl, and anti-clockwise to loosen. Just be sure to crack that nut in the centre of the pulley a couple of turns first, or you wont achieve much at all! I didn't actually think to check the actual thread direction when I was out there a moment ago actually changing the pulley and tensioning the belt, but anyway, that's what you do. :)

oh, and a simple way to avoid over-tensioning the belt? Set it first of all so that it is feels taut enough that it wont slip off, but loose enough that there is a reasonable amount of give when you depress it (the vertical section towards the front of the engine, just down from the power steering pulley is a good place to test). Turn the engine on and turn the wheel from lock to lock and hold it there momentarily - you should hear a squeal at left lock, but nothing at right lock. Then crack the nut again and turn the tensioner bolt maybe a couple of turns CLOCKWISE to tighten, but no more. Tighten the nut and turn the engine on again, doing the lock to lock thing again. The squeal should either have gone, or be improved. If it is gone, you are done - if not, repeat the process, turning the tensioner bolt no more than 1 or 2 turns at a time. If you can't get the tension right doing it this way, then I'd wager you're not safe enough being near the engine in the first place! :bowrofl:

And no, it doesn't actually take any time to do this either. I just replaced my idler pulley and retensioned the belt afterwards using the above process, taking about 3 or 4 tests to get the tension *just right*. And even with the time for a test drive afterwards, I was still back inside the house with the job successfully completed within 10 minutes. Very simple and straightforward job, and I think even the mechanically-challenged could manage this one with ease.