Hi guys,
Took my car to the mechanics today, got a 15 point check.
Not happy :(

Rear muffler burnt out internally
both CV joints split
Auto oil burnt
Power steering oil burnt
Front lower control arm bushes soft
All tyres low in tread
coolant and brake fluid failed test
front and rear pads 90% worn
front and rear rotors barely roadworthy.

Uh i was thinking just chuck a set of pads on for now until i get some money..
how much am i looking at for all this? I can get quotes but i mean how much SHOULD i be paying.

sorry but i would take your car somewhere else...
the lower control arm bushes are fluid filled so i think someone is talking S**T
CV's are easy...
i think you better go somewhere else bro...
btw how did he check the rotors?

if you just want to get your brakes done, last time i looked pads where $50 a pair and rotors where about $100 a pair, its up to you with you do it yourself for $0 or get someone else to do it for a few $$ although i wouldn't say its overly hard so you could get away with doing it yourself if you have some mechanical experience.

As for the Auto and P/S i would change the oil myself as well.

But as for the rest i would be going else where for a second opinion because if your car is normally serviced i would fined it very hard for all of those things to go wrong at once.

CHeers

I've gone 3 years with a split boot on the left CV, and have not had a problem, yet!.
I know that eventually it will dry out and I'll get that nice ratchet sound or something similar. Unless the CV's are making noises, I would keep driving until they start giving you trouble.

I agree with the others, find another mechanic for a second opinion.

I have to replace the front pads on my TS as they just began giving that grinding sound when I almost come to a stop. They have just done over 30,000klms in Sydney city driving.

thanks for the responses.
Im going to buy pads and rotors today, and fit them with dad's help. Save some $$.
I figured the CV boots would be fine, i know there's plenty of cars getting around with buggered ones...but ill change them eventually.


if you just want to get your brakes done, last time i looked pads where $50 a pair and rotors where about $100 a pair, its up to you with you do it yourself for $0 or get someone else to do it for a few $$ although i wouldn't say its overly hard so you could get away with doing it yourself if you have some mechanical experience.

As for the Auto and P/S i would change the oil myself as well.

But as for the rest i would be going else where for a second opinion because if your car is normally serviced i would fined it very hard for all of those things to go wrong at once.

CHeers

I bought the car at 91,000 kms and now its at 105,000. I should have got it all checked at 100 but have pretty much had no time in recent months. So i got a full check to see where i was at.


sorry but i would take your car somewhere else...
the lower control arm bushes are fluid filled so i think someone is talking S**T
CV's are easy...
i think you better go somewhere else bro...
btw how did he check the rotors?

Had the car up on a hoist, showed me all the problems - measured the rotors and theyre like a mil off legal specs...

The best thing about the muffler being burnt out is that now i have an excuse to go and get a nice cat back performance system :D

Thanks everyone, ill let you know how i go.

lol just cause he had it on a hoist... means nuthin...they bull**** like u won't believe

i took mine to a "reputable" guy (apparantely) just for a laugh...

he looked at mine and "showed me" that my lower bushes were cracked and broken and needed new ones... (ummm yes the paint was cracked and there was a small stress mark in the rubber but as i said already... they are fluid filled bushes... so no problems there)

just to humour him(and prove my point) i bought new urethane bushes and replaced them...
hey and guess what... when i took the old ones out... and drilled a hole through them.. what sprayed out? FLUID!!!! they were perfectly fine....
he said i needed new wheel bearings..(idiot... wheel bearings are fine)

all i am trying to say here is... take what you get from a mechanic with a pinch of salt...
take it to another one and see if he tells you the same...

(and i would be extremely suprised that a care with 91,000 on the clock had rotors worn that bad...)

yer i hate going to a mechanic.... when he tells me he needs to do somthing he always has a smirk on his face..... hes knows i know nothing lol

mm i pretended i knew what i was talking about...i know not to trust mechanics. Anywho bought brake pads today, leaving the rotors for a few months down the track, they aren't that important..just a bit squeaky.

CV boots can go to hell, they'll live.

If ur CV boots are split i would definately replace the boots..
for $30 and a 2 hours of work.. its worth it...
because if you don't and they get crap in them and they knock... then you are looking at even more $$$

just a thought about only replacing the pads and not the rotors, if the rotors have grooves in them, which i would think they would if they are making those nasty skweaking noises, they will groove the new pads, which isn't exactly desirable, but i guess wouldn't do any overall damage.

and i definiately agree with ADZA27 for the dollars its worth doing the boots too

I've gone 3 years with a split boot on the left CV, ...

Sent you a PM mate.

I've just noticed an explosion of oil inside my drivers side wheel (18's)

lol that sounds like your lower ball joint has split.. :) its not much of a problem... it will throw grease around for a while... but unless it rattles don't worry about it :)

Oh lima....
what size did he get when he measured the front rotors???

Sent you a PM mate.

I've just noticed an explosion of oil inside my drivers side wheel (18's)

I have replied to your email. Check your Inbox.

lol that sounds like your lower ball joint has split.. :) its not much of a problem... it will throw grease around for a while... but unless it rattles don't worry about it :)

Oh lima....
what size did he get when he measured the front rotors???


Okay that's the joint then, now my other concern is actually specifically on topic, brakes.

I was advised that I've got about 20% brake pads all around left to go, and will need to get them done along with a rotor machine. This month the front have occasionally squealled

The rotors at the front have a trail in the middle (wear patch/browny) and nice smooth/silver clear surface on either side, looks like the rotors are worn about 2mm from original dimensions, and wear evenly.

What rotors are on my car (93 Elite) and are they better to just get new? at least up front? or machining is effective and cheaper?

Rear muffler burnt out internally
both CV joints split
Auto oil burnt
Power steering oil burnt
Front lower control arm bushes soft
All tyres low in tread
coolant and brake fluid failed test
front and rear pads 90% worn
front and rear rotors barely roadworthy.


Well you asked for a check... they have to report everything techincally unroadworthy or damaged.

Heres what i'd do if i was straped for cash: (order of problems listed)
1, forget the muffler... she'll be fine :P
2, dont worry about the CV boots 'for the moment' unless the joints are damaged, or they have lost most of their grease.
3, dont service auto yet, unless the shifts are bad/harsh and unpredictable. Magna autos have a way of telling you when they need to be serviced lol.
4, dont worry about the power steering fluid yet either... sounds like a load of ****.
5, bushes shouldnt be a problem, unless theyre damaged. (also.. i wasnt aware that magnas used hyrdobushings at all... guess ya learn something new every day lol)
6, dont replace tyres unless they're unroadworthy. and if so, put 2 best worn tyres on rear end & deflate to 28psi. Buy new pair of front tyres... or better yet get a 2nd hand set.
7a, Check your radiator, if the water looks corroded/rusty inside flush it - premix coolant is only a few bucks a bottle.. buy 10L and flush as much as ya can out. If its not rusty, but just weak in concentration (very light green, or almost clear) then just buy a 2.5L bottle of concentrated coolant for now. Drain out 1.5-2L worth and pour the bottle in.
7b, Brake fluid... i'll refer to this after No.8.
8 & 9, replace pads front and rear asap... if rotors are warped (ie, shuddering in brake pedal), replace them. If not then they'll be ok. Now after replacing pads, if your brake fluid level is low now (which it should be) top it up. If, after a few spins around the block, you have a spongy brake pedal - then its time to change brake fluid.

Thats the best way to do things on the cheap, while still keeping safe. Hope it helps.
Also, where in Vic are you? if you're close by (doubt it lol) and ever need a hand with anything i'd be more than happy to help a fellow AMC'er.

What rotors are on my car (93 Elite) and are they better to just get new? at least up front? or machining is effective and cheaper?

These days it is more economical to replace rotors, instead of machining. for $25odd a pop, ya cant go wrong.

Well you asked for a check... they have to report everything techincally unroadworthy or damaged.

Heres what i'd do if i was straped for cash: (order of problems listed)
1, forget the muffler... she'll be fine :P
2, dont worry about the CV boots 'for the moment' unless the joints are damaged, or they have lost most of their grease.
3, dont service auto yet, unless the shifts are bad/harsh and unpredictable. Magna autos have a way of telling you when they need to be serviced lol.
4, dont worry about the power steering fluid yet either... sounds like a load of ****.
5, bushes shouldnt be a problem, unless theyre damaged. (also.. i wasnt aware that magnas used hyrdobushings at all... guess ya learn something new every day lol)
6, dont replace tyres unless they're unroadworthy. and if so, put 2 best worn tyres on rear end & deflate to 28psi. Buy new pair of front tyres... or better yet get a 2nd hand set.
7a, Check your radiator, if the water looks corroded/rusty inside flush it - premix coolant is only a few bucks a bottle.. buy 10L and flush as much as ya can out. If its not rusty, but just weak in concentration (very light green, or almost clear) then just buy a 2.5L bottle of concentrated coolant for now. Drain out 1.5-2L worth and pour the bottle in.
7b, Brake fluid... i'll refer to this after No.8.
8 & 9, replace pads front and rear asap... if rotors are warped (ie, shuddering in brake pedal), replace them. If not then they'll be ok. Now after replacing pads, if your brake fluid level is low now (which it should be) top it up. If, after a few spins around the block, you have a spongy brake pedal - then its time to change brake fluid.

Thats the best way to do things on the cheap, while still keeping safe. Hope it helps.
Also, where in Vic are you? if you're close by (doubt it lol) and ever need a hand with anything i'd be more than happy to help a fellow AMC'er.

Cheers mate, its all sorted now. Threw new pads on now, had a good look myself with dad and figured rotors would be right for a while. Leaving tyres, figured i'd save some money and chuck some 16" rims on down the track...for now i got some carby work to be done and a couple of issues with my alternator.
Gotta love cars :) Thanks for the offer if i ever need to do something that's out of my league will PM you...im at mill park thats northern suburbs.

Cheers mate, its all sorted now. Threw new pads on now, had a good look myself with dad and figured rotors would be right for a while. Leaving tyres, figured i'd save some money and chuck some 16" rims on down the track...for now i got some carby work to be done and a couple of issues with my alternator.
Gotta love cars :) Thanks for the offer if i ever need to do something that's out of my league will PM you...im at mill park thats northern suburbs.

No probs mate.. glad its sorted.

Mate, in 2 weeks I will be back and in 3 weeks I should be all set up if you want to save some $$

Mate, in 2 weeks I will be back and in 3 weeks I should be all set up if you want to save some $$

that's awesome. What do you do exactly? Ive seen your posts around, you know your stuff.

Used to, in a previous life be a mechanic until a D model ford truck decided to run me over and put an end to that.

These days I play cars on weekends and regret it for the rest of the week lol. Not that bad really as I enjoy it.

Mal is a legend lima. He will do the best job around and tell you what is really wrong.

Posted it many times before but Mal has fixed problems with my Verada's that dealers could never even find. You will never find someone better and he does it at a great price too.

Mal is a legend lima. He will do the best job around and tell you what is really wrong.

Posted it many times before but Mal has fixed problems with my Verada's that dealers could never even find. You will never find someone better and he does it at a great price too.

:thumbsup: Yep... from all of Mal's posts i've read on here; he definately knows his stuff. Much more trustworthy than 9/10ths of mechanics around town.

Sounds like I will be busy in a few weeks lol. Time to prove my worth lol

:thumbsup: Yep... from all of Mal's posts i've read on here; he definately knows his stuff. Much more trustworthy than 9/10ths of mechanics around town.

That's what i mean, i am yet to find a mechanic i can trust (no family friends are etc)..someone that is honest and not trying to take my money would be great :D

i don't have a mechanics license and people still ask me to do work on there cars.... i can easily fix it but if something happens to go wrong after i touch it.... im in big trouble because im not licensed

i don't have a mechanics license and people still ask me to do work on there cars.... i can easily fix it but if something happens to go wrong after i touch it.... im in big trouble because im not licensed

That sounds a bit crazy...:nuts: If that were the case, then no one would ever help out anyone else to fix stuff with their car. You might need accreditation to make a living as a mechanic, but there is no reason why you can't do stuff on other people's cars if you're not. Even if you accepted a token payment for work you do, there still would not be a problem.

The only time you would get into trouble (possibly) is if you tried to claim you actually were a mechanic, and then something went wrong. But if you're just a friend helping a friend, and they know you're not a mechanic, where is the problem in that?

Yes i know what you mean...
however i have been burned before...... helped someone who was a mate and it turned around and bit me... because something completely diff went wrong with his car 2 weeks later and he blamed me... it didn't cost me anything $$ wise but it did lose me a mate...i still help close mates with stuff.. but i won't charge them because it can cause issues :(

Yes i know what you mean...
however i have been burned before...... helped someone who was a mate and it turned around and bit me... because something completely diff went wrong with his car 2 weeks later and he blamed me... it didn't cost me anything $$ wise but it did lose me a mate...i still help close mates with stuff.. but i won't charge them because it can cause issues :(

Well yes, there may be issues of a personal nature if they're not all that smart or just very unlucky...but no legal problems unless you've misrepresented yourself as a qualified mechanic in the first place.