Well, I knew this day would eventually come (ironically I was just talking about it this morning).

Early this afternoon whilst driving into the driveway at work I heard a nasty sounding clunk from the front of the car. I parked the car thinking "I hope that isn't my diff...". A couple of hours later, I came out - got into the car, not even thinking about what had happened when I drove in, went around a 90 deg corner in the carpark with the clutch fully disengaged at a little over walking pace and heard another *CLUNK*, drove a few more meters, then around another corner and *CLUNK*.

At this point I started getting worried, and having heard stories about how quickly a broken diff can destroy a whole gearbox I stopped the car and called someone who I know is an expert on the topic (Megatron). Alan kindly confirmed my fears that it definetly sounded like the diff, and if I stopped driving the car right away I might be lucky enough that the whole gearbox doesn't need replacing.

I limped the car back into the car park (another *CLUNK* for good measure), parked it up and called the missus to pick me up.

While I was waiting - I called RPW only to be told by an answering machine that they were shut until the 15th January.

So.............. I'd like to know what I'm up for......

Ego has now broken a cusco LSD (be interested to know if there was any warranty on it).
RPW aren't open until next week - so best case scenario (if he has them in stock), I'll be waiting a week and a half for the unit to arrive in Brisbane.
Last I heard, Kaaz (sp?) didn't make a unit to fit - but there was some indication that they would in the near future.
and, how much am I looking at for a new mitsubishi standard diff center fitted, assuming the rest of the transmission is still okay (yes I know if I do this it will only last 6 months at best - but I can't afford to be without a car for more than a week or so).

All advice greatly appreciated.

i read some where in my lurchings that the ralliarts use the same as the fto so if u can order one of them then u'll be right :D

i read some where in my lurchings that the ralliarts use the same as the fto so if u can order one of them then u'll be right :D

Thanks for that mate - I had a feeling that was the case, and that the 5spd manual from the magna was shared with / very similar to one of the japanese mitsubishi "sports" cars.

Can anyone confirm that it's the FTO (and if applicable - which model/s?) as this will probably make it easier to find viable aftermarket options.

Hate to say it but yeah that sounds like spider gears in the diff center,, I know as ive done three now..:( Last one a few days before xmas and cant be stuffed pulling box out just yet..:P

You can replace or upgrade.. i went with a Cusco LSD.. not cheap and rather aggressive..:)

i'd be going the ralliart LSD. being a clutch plate LSD it has a bit of give so les chance of breaking it doing tight turns etc and will still give plenty of power to both wheels when the foot is down.

hard luck dude

Thanks for that mate - I had a feeling that was the case, and that the 5spd manual from the magna was shared with / very similar to one of the japanese mitsubishi "sports" cars.

Can anyone confirm that it's the FTO (and if applicable - which model/s?) as this will probably make it easier to find viable aftermarket options.

Yep this is on the manual FTO GPX-R, its basically the Ralliart version of the FTO range. Isn't the most common thing on four wheels so I don't know about your chances on finding one :doubt: .

Hmmm, I've been thinking about this for a while. As far as I know the Ralliart Torsen diff is indeed the unit used in the FTO. Don't know if any other development was done on them though for the Magna.

Question is, how much can any of these diffs take before they implode. I guess you've just answered the question regarding the standard Magna diff (I assume that's what it was?). Non of the FTO's would have been developing anything like the torque a turbo or supercharged Magna does though.


.

Button clutches do bad things to diff's, mates have them in there skylines and commodores, few have blown diffs, others gearboxes, there a bit to rough for family car's I think. It's probably more of a torque issue with the button clutch rather than outright power anyway, it's torque that kills stuff.

aight went and found it for ya


http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1532/article.html



Rather than devise an all-new front LSD, the Ralliart Magna manual uses the torque-sensing limited slip diff swiped from the Japanese market Mitsubishi FTO MIVEC V6 coupe.
Click for larger image

The top-of-the-range FTO in Japan has a 2-litre MIVEC V6 engine listed at 150kW at a sky-high 7500 rpm and a modest 200Nm at 6000 rpm. Being a relatively small displacement MIVEC (Mitsubishi Innovative Valve and Lift Electronic Control System) engine, torque is delivered very gradually; there isn't the instant gob-full of torque that the Ralliart V6 engine can dish out.

Despite this difference - and without having tested any other LSDs - the Ralliart Magna manual employs this differential in completely unchanged form. It is said to enable "more powerful traction in response to accelerator fluctuations compared to a speed-sensitive viscous coupling type LSD, superior response to accelerator fluctuations compared to regular mechanical LSDs and maintains drive even if one wheel experiences significant loss of traction". The LSD mechanism can also allow up to 2.5:1 left-to-right torque split ratio.

And why can't the manual/LSD combo be further equipped with traction control, you ask? Calibration issues, we're told.

At this stage I'm not considering the Ralliart LSD option - previous enquiries down this path have revealed that they are rarely (if ever) stocked by MMAL (which means importing from Japan or the USA), and they are over $2000 supply only.

As for the button clutch being bad, from what I've been told - I'd blame the the coilovers before I blame the clutch. They are the reason I give it so much stick thru tight corners :redface:

aight went and found it for ya


http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1532/article.html

Thanks for that mate!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUmqAzkLxc0&NR

get a diff like this bloke has. if it can hold up to that im sure it can hold up to your piss weak TT setup lol lol lol

c.i.g locker dude lol

that'd make the car live till you get a lsd....

goodluck trying to turn though :bowrofl:

I too have f*cked my diff. Launched hard in 1st, snapped it into 2nd and CLUNK. Massive clunk. Pull over and stop the car. Got ash3 to give the car a drive around and confirmed it was my diff, as he too had blown one in his TF.

I sourced a 2nd hand gearbox from a wreckers in Melbourne and when i put it in the car i was very dissapointed as the car was vibrating alot, 1st gear is unable to be engaged while moving and there is a loud chattering from the gearbox. I have warranty on the gearbox but not on the labour costs involved so i am out 440 dollars. Fun! They're currently on holidays so once they come back i'll be heading in for a replacement box.

I have spoken to a member of AMC which too had broken his diff and when he took the car to his mechanic they apparently had put an LSD in his box which was under 1k in price. I got the number and name of that place so if you would like it to call them send me a pm.

Good Luck mate!

Thanks for all the advice ppls.

I'll make some phone calls today and we'll see what happens.

I have also been looking at getting a LSD for a recent manual conversion, however I must admit that im a little worried after hearing of EGO's experience with his. I know Dave suggested one of the wheels may have lifted at one stage, have you found out anything more regarding this? Would you buy another one or is this something that could be covered by warranty?

Well, got two prices today from two different wreckers for replacement gearboxes, and I was wondering how they compare to gearboxes other members have purchased - because they are alot more expensive than I expected to pay. One place wanted $1100, and the other wanted $1300 for 2nd hand 3rd gen V6 manual transmission.

I've also been quoted $300 odd for removal and refit of the gearbox, $1200 to strip down and recondition the box (bearings, seals etc) + the cost of replacing any gears etc which have been damamged.

So at this stage - I'm thinking I'll get the car towed to my trusted workshop - get them to pull out and start to pull down the box and while thats happening I'll start the hunt for a LSD unit.

Wish me luck.

I have absolutely no idea about the FTO diff you need but heres one being wrecked, just thought I chuck it in incase its what you need.http://www.partsfind.com/dsweb.dll?DisplVhcl&USER=1649:227114&VHCL=061245MI&DISPL=YES

I have absolutely no idea about the FTO diff you need but heres one being wrecked, just thought I chuck it in incase its what you need.http://www.partsfind.com/dsweb.dll?DisplVhcl&USER=1649:227114&VHCL=061245MI&DISPL=YES

Thanks mate - but I somehow don't think there will be a useable LSD for my car in that 4spd auto FTO. And Imlachs were the ones that quoted me $1300 for a magna 5 speed gearbox - so I'd hate to see what they'd charge for an FTO gearbox.

with the power you've got i would go with the recon of your current gearbox. If they rebuild it they may be able to up the anti on some of the parts so it will take the punishment of the turbo

Well I've found a couple of options.

I've souced a full ralliart 5 speed gearbox which they're asking $1650 for. I've also found someone who claims to know of a Kazz(sp?) brand LSD unit which will fit straight into the car. Cost of the LSD imported incl. GST is $1630.

Not quite sure which option to go with at this stage. The straight gearbox swap should work out considerably cheaper, especially if it turns out I've done some damage to the gearbox internals.

So what are peoples thoughts?? I don't know wether to try my luck with the ralliart gear, or go for the heavy duty LSD which will make the car pretty uncomportable to drive to the shops and back.

*edit* also learnt today that you can run a shorter ratio diff gear in a magna 5 spd transmission by installing the equivalent 380 gear into the diff (or just dropping in a 380 transmission)

*edit* also learnt today that you can run a shorter ratio diff gear in a magna 5 spd transmission by installing the equivalent 380 gear into the diff (or just dropping in a 380 transmission)

That's an interesting bit of info, although I don't know why you'd want a shorter final drive, when our manual boxes already have very short ratios for a large 6. :) Would be a bit of fun thou, I think the main reason why the manual magnas feel so lively is because of the short gearing.

go the ralliart box.

I couldnt get anything on the Kazz unit when i went with LSD.. so i just ended up going with the cusco.. it the same money as the Kazz too..

just out of curoisty what are the engine firgures for your magna black beard:

i.e kw/rpm , torque/rpm estimated 0-100k time

sorry its off topic, but would be interested to know

That's an interesting bit of info, although I don't know why you'd want a shorter final drive,

Considering he is making substantial power, going from a 3.7 (I think thats what the 3rd gens have) final drive to a 4.11 might make traction all that little bit harder to obtain..lol

Considering he is making substantial power, going from a 3.7 (I think thats what the 3rd gens have) final drive to a 4.11 might make traction all that little bit harder to obtain..lol

somewhat but as the gearboxes are made for the more powerful 380 engine they might be overengineered enough that they'd be suitable for mikes car (high torque loads)... maybe one of the ralliart 380's gearbox eh mike??

In my experience Mitsu isnt in the habit of over engineering anything...it all just comes down to minimisation of manufacturing cost, which lets face it....Japanese manufaturers are known forand very good at.
Im leaning towards an aftermarket LSD at this stage. I just dont have full confidence in the ralliart (ala FTO GPX-R) units. We have certainly heard of a few (yes just a handful and no im not mitsubishi bashing) failing, and with only 500 built thats a reasonable failure rate.

just out of curoisty what are the engine firgures for your magna black beard:

i.e kw/rpm , torque/rpm estimated 0-100k time

sorry its off topic, but would be interested to know

If you haven't already - have a look at the dyno graph in my sig. It'll show you that I'm making peak power quite early (about 5000rpm), which is due largely to the "bleeder valve" boost controller.

No idea about torque or 0-100km/h time, but 0-100 wouldn't be that impressive because the car doesn't really come into its own until 3rd gear.

As for my diff options. Considering RPW apparently open tomorrow - I guess I've now got another option. If I end up getting the Kazz unit though - I should be able to provide other members with the specific part number for what should end up being a pretty readily available LSD unit for our cars.

somewhat but as the gearboxes are made for the more powerful 380 engine they might be overengineered enough that they'd be suitable for mikes car (high torque loads)... maybe one of the ralliart 380's gearbox eh mike??

I doubt there is any difference except for maybe gear ratios between the 380 box and 3.5L 3rd gen box.

I doubt there is any difference except for maybe gear ratios between the 380 box and 3.5L 3rd gen box.

He'd definately benefit from longer ratios, would make 1st and 2nd more practical for sure.

has anyone broken a cusco diff?

He'd definately benefit from longer ratios, would make 1st and 2nd more practical for sure.

I agree, but I have a feeling the 380s have an overall shorter ratio set due to the shorter final drive. Last I read they sit at 3,000rpm at 100kph compared to 2,500 for the 3rd Gens.

has anyone broken a cusco diff?

yes. ego (or Dr ego or Mr ego or Sir ego or whatever other form of ego he is currently appearing as... :P). about 2 weeks ago...

Took the car to the workshop Monday afternoon, went down there this afternoon expecting to see my car sitting there with no gearbox in - but that wasn't the case.

After some extensive troubleshooting - they came to the conclusion that the "clunk" was originating from the drive shaft(s) and as such they had removed them and they are being delivered to a driveline specialist tomorrow morning for inspection / repair. Apparently it isn't uncommon for an excessive lowering to place wear something in the driveshaft - leading to there being some "play" in them.

I'm stoked. Means I probaby won't be up for a new gearbox / diff.

:D

Great news Mike. Might be an idea to get the driveline strengthened if possible while it's being repaired. Keep us posted eh.

i know the problem...

http://shadowdane.shackspace.com/cats_files/mechanic.jpg

EDIT: lol talk about productive. :P sorri

yes. ego (or Dr ego or Mr ego or Sir ego or whatever other form of ego he is currently appearing as... :P). about 2 weeks ago...


How was it broken? are they weak or generally reliable? I need something for racing purposes.

How was it broken? are they weak or generally reliable? I need something for racing purposes.
Ego's broke driving into a driveway.

How was it broken? are they weak or generally reliable? I need something for racing purposes.
in his words....

Tell me about it.. I was driving in a driveway too like a grandma with a low car and big wheels.. was doing like 1/4 of a km/h if that and just coming off the clutch... got no idea why it happened.. Driveway had a hump in it.. Dave reckons one wheel got off the ground and thats why. I put the Cusco in as Dave said they are bullet proof.. didnt think id ever have a drama as i dont give it that much unless im in a straight line.. I know how easy it is to break them when turning.. didnt think a driveway would do it..:cry:

Oh well we had to do a rear main seal so box out to come out anyway..:P

How was it broken? are they weak or generally reliable? I need something for racing purposes.

Some people just seem to have a knack for breaking magna gearboxes....... and Ego is one of those people.

Dave from RPW has also broken a cusco LSD while racing on a fully preped drag strip with street tyres.

in his words....

Hmmmmmm....... his description sounds a hell of a lot like mine. And his car is very low.

If mine turns out to be the driveshaft - his might be the same thing. I always thought it was weird that someone who claims not do do burnouts and **** could break a LSD so quickly.

Some people just seem to have a knack for breaking magna gearboxes....... and Ego is one of those people.

Dave from RPW has also broken a cusco LSD while racing on a fully preped drag strip with street tyres.


Sounds like there is not yet a good option for me. Mine will need to put up with many race starts in hillclimbs as well as circuit work. What is stronger than the cusco?

i know the problem...

http://shadowdane.shacace.com/cats_files/mechanic.jpg

EDIT: lol talk about productive. :P sorri

hahha thats rad.

Mike with the extra weight of new engine and illegal springs my driveshafts would creak and ****, definately didn't sound good for them, there was a bit of an angle off the g/box to the centre off wheels.

Hope it's your driveshafts.

Was there ever a clunking noise (or similar present) after putting in the new diff?

Was there ever a clunking noise (or similar present) after putting in the new diff?

Is that question directed at me??? becuase I don't have a new diff installed (yet). I have been told by multiple sources that these aftermarket LSD's will make "chattering" noises while driving around at low speeds (in car parks for example). I understand it is just the nature of having an LSD in a FWD.

Just to all the Cusco LSD owners.
Coz mine makes alot of noises (when turning at low speeds)

Just to all the Cusco LSD owners.
Coz mine makes alot of noises (when turning at low speeds)

Well I don't have one, but I've been told by EGO and Mitsiman that such noises are a characteristic of the diffs.

I was also told by the place in adelaide who put a Kaz diff in a TL magna to expect the same noises if installing one of those diffs in my car.

If you haven't already - contact Dave from RPW, as he claims to have done extensive research into which fluids / additives will work best.

My first thought was drive shaft as i have smashed two of those before too..:P

I pulled box out today but are yet to look at driveshafts.. mine seemed to be ok on first quick inspection.. i drains oil to pull box out to nite and there was a nice big chunk of gear on the end of the magnetic sump plug..:P

I know what to expect when i open box in the next few days..:(

You never forget the LSD is there. Its agressive at low speed and noisey and chirps wheels..

Easiest way to discribe it would be it feels like its got a locker in it.. real ***** in a FWD at slow speed but awesome under power and cornering..:)

Well forget what I said about the driveshafts. They were sent away for inspection and came back with the all clear. :rant:

Looks like I might be up for an LSD / gearbox rebuild after all that.

dude that sux. i bet you were feeling relieved when you thought it was just a drive shaft.

bloody cars, i mean who would want to put forced induction on a magna ay? :confused:

when u find a new LSD, let me know where you got it from, i might be next in line

when u find a new LSD, let me know where you got it from, i might be next in line

At this point, which LSD I put in the car will depend on which one I can get my hands on first.

Aparently RPW have an order already placed and "on the way". My other option involves taking measurements of the diff, then placing an order for a Kaz unit - which could take weeks to arrive anyway.

is there any specific driving behaviour that is leading to the failures?
I contacted the Cusco Agent for Australia and he said Cusco Japan has not heard of any failures...so best contact them I suppose if one lets go.
Dr Ego, what type of Cusco diff were you using?

is there any specific driving behaviour that is leading to the failures?
I contacted the Cusco Agent for Australia and he said Cusco Japan has not heard of any failures...so best contact them I suppose if one lets go.
Dr Ego, what type of Cusco diff were you using?

The driving behaviour most commonly linked to breaking the standard diff centers is applying heavy throttle during tight cornering which causes one wheel to spin while the other is gripping. Not sure if the same can be said for the LSD's. Mitsiman claims his damaged LSD was attributed to racing on a prepped drag stip with street tyre, in particular - getting a poor launch which caused the wheels to spin - grip - spin - grip - spin - grip etc.

Ego would have been using a Cusco MZ type diff.

interesting as it is similar reasons for failure for the Quaife ATB's.
So in essance the Cusco and the Kazz have both broken in a magna.
The issue for me is that whilst the car will be lighter, the grip will be higher...an interesting problem.

interesting as it is similar reasons for failure for the Quaife ATB's.
So in essance the Cusco and the Kazz have both broken in a magna.
The issue for me is that whilst the car will be lighter, the grip will be higher...an interesting problem.

AFAIK - there is only 1 magna with a Kaaz diff fitted (eddy wreckers TL magna), and Ian claims that he hasn't had any issues with it to date. There are alot more magnas getting around with Cusco LSD's so I guess it makes sence that there have been reported failures of these units.

I have my suspicions that they are all made in the same factory :confused:

interesting idea.
I feel that for my application the 1.5 diff as cusco call it has some advantages...rearward weight bias. I do not believe Kaaz has this ability. I will follow up with both....I was wrong Kaaz do have a 1.5 diff

Ego would have been using a Cusco MZ type diff.
Yeah think mine was a MZ and it was set at 1 way..:P

Yeah think mine was a MZ and it was set at 1 way..:P

Now that you mention it.... lets get down to the nitty gritty of this topic.

How did you find the handling characteristics of this Diff setup Ego??

From my understanding - a 1 way diff setup effectively behaves like an open diff on over run (no throttle), wheras a 2 way diff is always active (on acceleration and deceleration) and a 1.5 way is somewhere in between, but generally has a stronger "lock" on acceleration than deceleration.

I've read conflicting views on wether or not 1 way or 1.5 way is the best setup for a FWD.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential:
"If there is no additional coupling on over run, the LSD is 1 way. This is a safer LSD, as soon as the driver lifts the throttle, the LSD unlocks and behaves somewhat like a conventional open diff. This is also the best for FWD cars, as it allows the car to turn in on throttle release, instead of ploughing forward."

or from http://www.kaazusa.com/introductionToLSD/introduction_To_LSD.htm:
"1.5 way is also very effective for front wheel drive cars which need extra stability during braking."

:think:

Now that you mention it.... lets get down to the nitty gritty of this topic.

How did you find the handling characteristics of this Diff setup Ego??

From my understanding - a 1 way diff setup effectively behaves like an open diff on over run (no throttle), wheras a 2 way diff is always active (on acceleration and deceleration) and a 1.5 way is somewhere in between, but generally has a stronger "lock" on acceleration than deceleration.

I've read conflicting views on wether or not 1 way or 1.5 way is the best setup for a FWD.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential:
"If there is no additional coupling on over run, the LSD is 1 way. This is a safer LSD, as soon as the driver lifts the throttle, the LSD unlocks and behaves somewhat like a conventional open diff. This is also the best for FWD cars, as it allows the car to turn in on throttle release, instead of ploughing forward."

or from http://www.kaazusa.com/introductionToLSD/introduction_To_LSD.htm:
"1.5 way is also very effective for front wheel drive cars which need extra stability during braking."

:think:
6 one way, half a dozen the other

i think a one way would be better as it states, better turn in. if you had your wheels loaded up it would tend to understeer more

it will depend on the setup of the individual car. If you setup the rear very stiff to try to get good steer characteristics then stability at corner entry may be an issue so '1.5 way' etc etc. Individual setup and drivning style is very important.

One way is fine..

If you come to syd ill give you a drive and you will agree.. A FWD with an aggresive LSD like the Cusco is a bit to handle.. Changes the car alot.. Remember that you dont only go in a straight line but you got to turn and drive the front wheels at the same while they both do the same thing..

Makes slow turning fun..:P

Easiest way to describe it to someone that doesnt know.. if you know what a locker is like in a RWD diff.. put that in your magna..:P Makes it a little interesting time in the wet..:P alway get the wheels slipping as they both try to keep up with each other..


Turns a family car into an aggressive street car..

Received confirmation yesterday afternoon that RPW have received their Cusco order.

wooo hooo!!!

Should be driving my car again by the end of next week :D

Received confirmation yesterday afternoon that RPW have received their Cusco order.

wooo hooo!!!

Should be driving my car again by the end of next week :D


hahah i got that a week ago and still havent heard much..:P

yeah will get it sorted soon..

I'd just like to make it clear to everyone at AMC that I don't blame David from RPW for the delays I have experienced in getting a replacement LSD for my car. Dave has been more than helpful to me, and unfortunately the lead times on getting these components into the country is something he has no control over.

Understandably - RPW don't keep alot of these things on the shelves, and when they place an order with Cusco Japan, they are made to order. I've since learnt that they come from Japan via New Zealand.

Anyway - the moral of the story is, if you are one of those people (like me) who thinks they want an LSD, but will wait until your diff breaks - be prepared to be without your car for upto 6 weeks.

Will post up first impressions of the LSD once I get it installed.

I'd just like to make it clear to everyone at AMC that I don't blame David from RPW for the delays I have experienced in getting a replacement LSD for my car. Dave has been more than helpful to me, and unfortunately the lead times on getting these components into the country is something he has no control over.

Understandably - RPW don't keep alot of these things on the shelves, and when they place an order with Cusco Japan, they are made to order. I've since learnt that they come from Japan via New Zealand.

Anyway - the moral of the story is, if you are one of those people (like me) who thinks they want an LSD, but will wait until your diff breaks - be prepared to be without your car for upto 6 weeks.

Will post up first impressions of the LSD once I get it installed.

I have done so much research in this feild.. Dave gets his bits from NZ.. NZ gets them from cusco..m The guys in NZ are hopeless too.. that makes a bad combo all up..

Thing that ****s me is you get told one price then it doubles ehrn they arrive..

Will have a better result for everyone oneday..:P

I have done so much research in this feild.. Dave gets his bits from NZ.. NZ gets them from cusco..m The guys in NZ are hopeless too.. that makes a bad combo all up..

Thing that ****s me is you get told one price then it doubles ehrn they arrive..

Will have a better result for everyone oneday..:P

Well it's good to know that I'm contributing to 3 different economies in purchasing this part :nuts:

Well it's good to know that I'm contributing to 3 different economies in purchasing this part :nuts:
Yep thats the worst part..:(

And let me tell you ive tried bypassing RPW. the guys in NZ are impossible to deal with..:(



Yet my car remains still broken..:(

so the part goes from.... Japan.... to NZ.... to WA.....? what the ****? did they hire a rocket scientest to make up that route? :roll:

so the part goes from.... Japan.... to NZ.... to WA.....? what the ****? did they hire a rocket scientest to make up that route? :rolleyes:


Yeah ill let you gues the name of that LAB..:P

My diff will have travelled more km's than my car by the time it gets installed :bowrofl:

My diff will have travelled more km's than my car by the time it gets installed :bowrofl:

And will be brokn before your car too..:P


Oh wait.. thats only if i drive it..:P You drive like a grandma so you will be right..:P

oh oh oh.... just got the call..... they are putting oil in the gearbox now... hopefully will be able to pick it up tonight!!!

Yay! Try not to break it on the way home.. lol

oh oh oh.... just got the call..... they are putting oil in the gearbox now... hopefully will be able to pick it up tonight!!!

Do you need a lift chief..?

I'm gonna be around Algester in bout 15mins.. so I could scoop you up on the way..

SuFz :rant:

Do you need a lift chief..?

I'm gonna be around Algester in bout 15mins.. so I could scoop you up on the way..

SuFz :rant:

Nah - I'll be all good thanks Sufz. Don't really live that close to Algester anymore either.

I'm not liking the fact that I haven't heard back from them yet :confused:

Ring em now, don't be without the car for a night just cos they are to lazy to call you.

it's been 7 weeks....... one more day is hardly going to kill me lol

Well I got it......... all I can say is this; I had no idea it would make soooo much difference to traction!!!! I can actually floor it in 2nd without spinning the wheels now!!! and can push the accellerator a lot further down in first before I hear them start to spin.

Handling wise........ well all I can really say is that it's different...... there's a few corners I won't be hitting as hard as I used to until I get a bit more of a feel for what the hell is happening to my front wheels!!!

BTW - I'm still dizzy from the "running-in" proceedure lol. But all in all - it's not as bad as I was lead to believe at low speed cornering. My mechanic made the comment, and I agree - that my clutch is harder to live with than the LSD.

it's been 7 weeks....... one more day is hardly going to kill me lol

jeez, mate! You haven't converted to Buddhism because of this, have you?

Nice to hear it all worked out for you. Now please please please, we want some videos of your car in action!

Good to hear, now don't crash it.

Or drive it on NT roads without a bucket of water.

The vote is in. Park that biatch and don't touch it until someone can get a million pics and video of it because the next time you take it out it'll go chernoble.

**** all yall.

mother****ing doomsayers

lol lol

I'm driving it till the wheels fall off....... and if it only takes a week for that to happen then it's gonna be a long time before theres any pics or vids to show because as of Sunday I'm unemployed :cry:

**** all yall.

mother****ing doomsayers

lol lol

I'm driving it till the wheels fall off....... and if it only takes a week for that to happen then it's gonna be a long time before theres any pics or vids to show because as of Sunday I'm unemployed :cry:

where ya working at and why are you getting fired?

where ya working at and why are you getting fired?

your assumption that I have been "fired" is highly inaccurate.......

I'm walking away from a fairly lucrative career because it is destroying my family life and my health...... if you must know.

what you were a mobster cause you cant leave the familylol

Well I got it......... all I can say is this; I had no idea it would make soooo much difference to traction!!!! I can actually floor it in 2nd without spinning the wheels now!!! and can push the accellerator a lot further down in first before I hear them start to spin.

Handling wise........ well all I can really say is that it's different...... there's a few corners I won't be hitting as hard as I used to until I get a bit more of a feel for what the hell is happening to my front wheels!!!

BTW - I'm still dizzy from the "running-in" proceedure lol. But all in all - it's not as bad as I was lead to believe at low speed cornering. My mechanic made the comment, and I agree - that my clutch is harder to live with than the LSD.

You will lov it.. It will change the way your car drives. its the low speed stuff that suxes..:P

Only thing i wish mine didnt do it the chattering when going slow around corners.. makes you have to give it some juice.. you cant drive like a grandma anymore. LSD want to go fast..:P

We speakin of diffs.. i just checked courier statis on mine parts..

Feb 28, 2007 21:3018 AUSTRALIA - Sydney Contractor Received at delivery hub.
Feb 28, 2007 15:4940 AUSTRALIA - SYDNEY Scheduled for delivery.
Feb 28, 2007 10:3708 AUSTRALIA - SYDNEY Received and awaiting clearance for delivery.


So if its at the delivery hub i would assume ill get them today or tomorrow. then aim for car back together next weekend.. Yah.. it been 10 weeks and will be 11 by next weekend.. cant wait to drive my biatch again..:P

We will have to start a MM for LSD magnas only..:)

You women are acting like its a CIG locker or something :badgrin:

You women are acting like its a CIG locker or something :badgrin:

Come for a drive fool.. it feels like a locker.. Or maybe thats just mine.. it dont like going around corners..:)

Come for a drive fool.. it feels like a locker.. Or maybe thats just mine.. it dont like going around corners..:)

Mine only really "chattered" this morning driving into the driveway at work..... I was in second - creeping and turning at low revs...... it didn't like it much so I dropped back to first and it was okay.

Weird but it seems to like more revs. I spent about 10 mins doing figure 8's last night (man I was dizzy), in first not really dropping much below 2000rpm and it didn't make any funny noises at all - just a little jerky when the revs dropped off abit.

Mine only really "chattered" this morning driving into the driveway at work..... I was in second - creeping and turning at low revs...... it didn't like it much so I dropped back to first and it was okay.

Weird but it seems to like more revs. I spent about 10 mins doing figure 8's last night (man I was dizzy), in first not really dropping much below 2000rpm and it didn't make any funny noises at all - just a little jerky when the revs dropped off abit.
Yeah you learn to rev itharder and come off clutch slower..

What oil did you end up going with..??

Yeah you learn to rev itharder and come off clutch slower..

What oil did you end up going with..??

Motul FF 75w90 I'm pretty sure. Everyone I spoke to made horrible faces when I told them what Dave recommended. Mineral 90 weight oil and friction modifier combo apparently causes havoc with gear selection (and not only when cold), and I was advised against using Kaz LSD oil in a syncromesh gearbox.

So far I've got no reason to regret the choice of oil I've put in there (appart from $40 / litre :shock: )

lol @ "come off the clutch slower"......... you can't really come off the clutch slower with a button clutch mate :D

Good to hear you're back on the road.

After all the work you've done to the car, it deserves a LSD anyway.

Motul FF 75w90 I'm pretty sure. Everyone I spoke to made horrible faces when I told them what Dave recommended. Mineral 90 weight oil and friction modifier combo apparently causes havoc with gear selection (and not only when cold), and I was advised against using Kaz LSD oil in a syncromesh gearbox.

So far I've got no reason to regret the choice of oil I've put in there (appart from $40 / litre :shock: )

lol @ "come off the clutch slower"......... you can't really come off the clutch slower with a button clutch mate :D
Yeah dont like daves combo with a passion.. i dumped it after 4 weeks as it was getting so bad.. the gearbox felt so differant with dif oil in it too.. Dropped my bits off at Diff Trans this arvo.. they will have my box back together in a few days.. hopefully ill have box back in mid next week and running again.. want tobe driving it next weekend..:)

5 months and less than 4,000kms is all it took me to break a cusco LSD if anyone is interested. :nuts:

Thats ok.. my best was 3 weeks and 1200kms...:P

Your not trying hard enough..:)

5 months and less than 4,000kms is all it took me to break a cusco LSD if anyone is interested. :nuts:


WTF!!!! Magna diff are week as piss then, f***

That Cusco one might be the only worthwile option, or stay with an open diff

hahahaha.. yay for diffs.... my cars still off the road! lol

WTF!!!! Magna diff are week as piss then, f***

That Cusco one might be the only worthwile option, or stay with an open diff

I think you read wrong mate...... I did break a Cusco diff, after only 5 months and less than 4000kms driven (only really drove it hard a few times in that time).

RPW basically no longer sell Cusco diffs for Magnas because the were prone to breaking. Unfortunately I must have been one of the last people to buy one off him before they switched to the Quaiffe diffs.

I think you were the last Cusco sale we made

For those who have had broken diffs and have bought a cusco from me, mention this if you want to change to a Quaife unit and I will do some better pricing for you. Its not a lot but its the best I can offer. Just had word the second batch of Quaife units are nearly finished so soon I should have ten diffs in stock.

Still got mine in the car, 10,000km later, several rallies, drags and street, wet and dry and no problems with it at all. I have re confirmed again, that Quaife will provide a life time warranty on there differentials where I still have my last damaged cusco one with Cusco japan at this moment awaiting a report on cause of failure. I will let update on the forums a copy of there report, although I don't feel hopeful about any compensation from them.

What are the quaife diffs ment to fit in...anyone know?

Are they for the eclipse turbo 2wd..27 spline?

--Tonba

I think you were the last Cusco sale we made

For those who have had broken diffs and have bought a cusco from me, mention this if you want to change to a Quaife unit and I will do some better pricing for you. Its not a lot but its the best I can offer. Just had word the second batch of Quaife units are nearly finished so soon I should have ten diffs in stock.



Thanks Dave, that's good to know.


What are the quaife diffs ment to fit in...anyone know?

Are they for the eclipse turbo 2wd..27 spline?

--Tonba

No idea mate, and unfortunately this is the sort of information Dave will take to the grave with him :cool: .

I couldn't even guess how many hours I spent on the phone trying to find out which Cusco or Kaaz LSD would fit in my magna when I broke my first diff. The fact of the matter is, there just isn't anyone out thats modding these cars to the extent that they know what LSD units can be used in them.

Surely someone has to know and conferm wheather they have a 27 spline axle or not...

Broken already :cry:. Never had a problem with mine and neither has Jase (who is running a shedload more power than me) Ralliart LSD's must be ok. :shock:

The Ralliart LSD is the same design type as the Quaife Units - a mechanical ge****tup. So yeh defintly far stronger than a standard open differential.

But they are a thin walled unit cause we have sold these to Ralliart vehicle owners so they can still break, I still beleive a lot of it has to do with the way the car is driven sometimes, although I know this was not the case for the vehicles with the Cusco units fitted.

And if someone is searching for a box and diff, RPW has a complete stock manuel 3.5 box in stock as well.

Surely someone has to know and conferm wheather they have a 27 spline axle or not...

I can't remember all the details - but there is more involved than the axle size. I ended up speaking to a workshop in adelaide who had put a Kaz dif in a magna and they basically had to pull the dif out, measure all sorts of things - then go through the Kaz catalogue to find one that matched, and they gave me the impression that it was a pretty obscure model that did the job - not something obvious like an overseas Mitsubishi with similar running gear to the magna.

Broken already :cry:. Never had a problem with mine and neither has Jase (who is running a shedload more power than me) Ralliart LSD's must be ok. :shock:

For around $2000 for the dif centre alone - they would want to be "ok"!!

Broken already :cry:. Never had a problem with mine and neither has Jase (who is running a shedload more power than me) Ralliart LSD's must be ok. :shock:
go team!!! hi five bro :thumbsup: :nutkick:

go team!!! hi five bro :thumbsup: :nutkick:
:bowrofl: :fruitcake

the ralliart units cant be too weak, i mean i've done 116,000kms, street raced, drag raced and track used and she's still fine! Gearbox is coming out in the next fortnight so will have a squiz then on what the real condition is like

I think you read wrong mate...... I did break a Cusco diff, after only 5 months and less than 4000kms driven (only really drove it hard a few times in that time).

RPW basically no longer sell Cusco diffs for Magnas because the were prone to breaking. Unfortunately I must have been one of the last people to buy one off him before they switched to the Quaiffe diffs.


Ah brain fade on my part, thats what I meant, Quaiffe centers.

Broken already :cry:. Never had a problem with mine and neither has Jase (who is running a shedload more power than me) Ralliart LSD's must be ok. :shock:

Same here.

Mines been track raced (in a GTP race magna for over a year) before i got it. Since putting it in my car its been in circuit sprints, drags and heaps of street thrashing thought it shat itself last year but it was actually a gearbox bearing that had died. :)

Same here.

Mines been track raced (in a GTP race magna for over a year) before i got it. Since putting it in my car its been in circuit sprints, drags and heaps of street thrashing thought it shat itself last year but it was actually a gearbox bearing that had died. :)
Word.

Word.

What the **** are you on about??!!

What the **** are you on about??!!
Agreed, Stop spamming... l ol

Bit of an update: Gearbox has been removed and stripped. Diff was shagged, planetarys and other bits broken.

Damage has also been done to a few teeth of the final drive gear / output shaft gear / the gear that turns the crown wheel. In the pics below, it is the smaller, wider gear on the end of the shaft that has been chipped. Apparently that particular gear is part of the output shaft (ie: all the other gears come off the shaft, except this one)... if that makes sense.

The problem I am having is finding a 3.5L, 5spd manual parts box that I can get one from. Have tried two reputable mitsubishi wreckers here in Qld as well as Eddy Wreckers in SA and no one can help me. I'm yet to get onto Dave from RPW - but will keep trying. I don't really want to buy a brand new one from mitsubishi, and don't want to have to buy a whole new gearbox if I can help it.

So if anyone has a parts box, or can think of a wrecker that might be able to help - please let me know!!!

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/black_beard_2006/11-09-07_1600.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/black_beard_2006/11-09-07_1559-1.jpg

not good to hear mike. :cry:

good to see you got some nice pics.. always wanted to know what the inside looked like..

Well just got off the phone with the mechanic at RPW and apparently thats the bit that always breaks when diffs let go......... so I'm guessing my chances of getting a 2nd hand one are pretty much nil.

I was however quoted about $645 for the part from mitsubishi and he said that was alot cheaper than RPW were quoted 12 months ago. So if that is the right part (2 seperate mitsubishi dealers came back with the same price when I described the part to them), then it looks like that will be my only option.

Well just got off the phone with the mechanic at RPW and apparently thats the bit that always breaks when diffs let go......... so I'm guessing my chances of getting a 2nd hand one are pretty much nil.

I was however quoted about $645 for the part from mitsubishi and he said that was alot cheaper than RPW were quoted 12 months ago. So if that is the right part (2 seperate mitsubishi dealers came back with the same price when I described the part to them), then it looks like that will be my only option.

anyword on what Diff your gonna use?

anyword on what Diff your gonna use?

Yeah - preferably will be putting quaiffe LSD in it. But if it's gonna cost me too much to replace this bloody pinion / final drive gear thingy I might end up having to replace the whole gearbox which will leave me no money for a new LSD :cry:.

Moral of the story kiddies....... don't break your ****ing diffs!!!

(or just don't mod magnas to start with)

Yeah - preferably will be putting quaiffe LSD in it. But if it's gonna cost me too much to replace this bloody pinion / final drive gear thingy I might end up having to replace the whole gearbox which will leave me no money for a new LSD :cry:
:cry: have to go a ralliart gear box in then...

:cry: have to go a ralliart gear box in then...

Yeah except they're rare as rocking horse ****.......... stupid thing is I had a ralliart box lined up last time for $1600 delivered, and I decided to go with the cusco because I thought it would be stronger :nuts: .

Don't like my chances of finding a ralliart box now..... regular 5spd manuals for 3.5L are getting hard enough to find.

Not good news man. Hopefully you get it sorted.

Not good news man. Hopefully you get it sorted.

It'll get sorted alright. All I can say is I really really hope the quaiffe diffs live up to their reputation.

It'll get sorted alright. All I can say is I really really hope the quaiffe diffs live up to their reputation.

My cars sitting at home in the carport without any drive either!

Got the car back after getting a 2nd hand box when i blew the diff last year and a new clutch put in.

Had the car for 3 weeks and blew another diff while whacking it into 2nd! No drive at all this time! yay.. not

That was about 2 weeks ago.. So let me know how you go with the quaiffe!

It'll get sorted alright. All I can say is I really really hope the quaiffe diffs live up to their reputation.
Well Dave has been flogging the hell out of his at the strip and on the street and from all reports it's bulletproof. Plus you get the guarantee from Quaiffe themselves that if you break it they'll replace it for free (not sure how keen I'd be to get another diff that's gonna break if you actually did break it) But to me it sounds like a good investment.

Well Dave has been flogging the hell out of his at the strip and on the street and from all reports it's bulletproof. Plus you get the guarantee from Quaiffe themselves that if you break it they'll replace it for free (not sure how keen I'd be to get another diff that's gonna break if you actually did break it) But to me it sounds like a good investment.

I know what you mean....., thats pretty much why I decided against repairing the cusco diff. At least the Quaiffes comes with a guarantee, unlike the cusco unit, which came with no warranty whatsoever by all accounts.

Dave currently has a claim in the works with Cusco Japan, and I'll be hanging onto (whats left of) my diff, incase he gets some joy with them - if so, then there's hope for the other cusco users who have suffered failures to get some compensation

At this stage this is purely hypothetical, but it is my opinion and the one I am putting to Cusco Japan to try and get a warranty claim going on these. I have done two gearboxes in myself and I know of others with the same issues.

i still have my leftovers sitting in a box, does this mean theres a chance i could claim something back? i probably dont want to use it again, but i could at least get it back together to sell or something

My cars sitting at home in the carport without any drive either!

Got the car back after getting a 2nd hand box when i blew the diff last year and a new clutch put in.

Had the car for 3 weeks and blew another diff while whacking it into 2nd! No drive at all this time! yay.. not

That was about 2 weeks ago.. So let me know how you go with the quaiffe!

Must have been one hell of a shift into 2nd!!!:shock: Was it around a corner?

Must have been one hell of a shift into 2nd!!!:shock: Was it around a corner?
nah.. straight line.. took off at the lights then slammed it into 2nd. it engaged for a split second and then just free revved.

nah.. straight line.. took off at the lights then slammed it into 2nd. it engaged for a split second and then just free revved.

I guess it must have been already stressed from the previous owner. I don't thrash my car, but it does get driven hard, no problems in the nearly 4 years I've had the manual now.

choonga you suck at magnas :P

between me and you our magnas have been off the road more than they have been on it :bowrofl:

Nothing special really...... and don't ask me how it works.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/black_beard_2006/P1010033.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/black_beard_2006/P1010032.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l292/black_beard_2006/P1010029.jpg

*edit* - I'll post up pics of my cusco diff when I get it back.

personally, i would have put a towel down on that beautiful polished floor

personally, i would have put a towel down on that beautiful polished floor

Pffft..... I rent mate. lol

Pffft..... I rent mate. lol
in that case, i want to see pictures of the trashed diff covered in oil and grease on the same floor!

in that case, i want to see pictures of the trashed diff covered in oil and grease on the same floor!

:bowrofl: I said I rent, not live in a housing commission house lol

Hey Mike.

After some dramas I FINALLY got my car back today (yes on a saturday), just in time for my track outing on Monday. Talk about cutting it fine eh.

I'll give a full story about how the Quaife LSD feels, after my trackday this coming Monday.

However my initial impressions from having a bit of fun on some quiet roads are excellent.

Previously when I gave the throttle too hard a prod exiting a corner, it would simply spin up the inside and wanto plough straight, as I'm sure everyone here is familar with.

Now instead of this, the front gives a bit of a wiggle, and then grips up and goes. if you get on the power harder, it seems to chirp slightly, but continue gripping without wheelspin/understeer.

Havn't tried anything silly like full throttle on full lock. But there's no point to that, other than causing unecessary mechanical stresses.

I'll reserve judgement until the track, but it's looking good. And for the cost and headaches it's given me (no fault of RPWs or Quaife), you'd bloody hope so!

Good luck with it Andy!!! I'm sure you'll be happy with it. After talking to a fellow member who has driven a manual Ralliart magna (probably the closest thing to a magna with a quaiffe LSD fitted as far as I can tell), it sounds like these sorts of LSD's won't make as much of a profound difference as the cusco unit made, which is abit of a shame.

Basically - the Cusco LSD kicks in whenever you are accelerating, which is a pain in the ass in carparks, and going around small roundabouts - but pretty freaking awesome the rest of the time.

From what I understand about the quaiffe LSD's, they only activate when one wheel breaks traction. So 90% of the time it will be no different to an open diff.

From what I understand about the quaiffe LSD's, they only activate when one wheel breaks traction. So 90% of the time it will be no different to an open diff.

AFAIk in a way that is true, torsen-type diffs work on slip. However it isn't as bad as it sounds. Basically what happens is soon as a hint of slip occures, torque is shuffled to the other wheel.

So when you plant the foot, the inside wheel chirps slightly, torque is shuffled to the outside wheel, and away you go. It's not like it freely wheelspins before it starts to work.

It's true torsen diffs will open-wheel if you manage to lift a wheel up, or it's very slippery and one wheel spins even with minimum torque going to it. However I believe this applies to the old type of torsen diff without pre-loading. AFAIK the Quaife units we're getting have pre-loading? Perhaps Dave can comfirm this? Either way, for driving around a dry track, it doesn't really matter.

I've spoken to a fair few guys with serious motorsport experience, and they seem to think a good torsen diff like a Quaife is just as good as a clutch-pack type such as the Cusco, for going as fast as possible around a track.

Of course the advantage of a clutch-pack unit is you can adjust its behaviour, and rebuild it, which is important when you pushing tonnes of hp that might break a torsen diff. However for our purposes I don't think we'll see broken ones (even dave's is fine), and we arent driving mega $$$ race cars where you can afford to muck about with the a clutch-pack diff's setup.

From what I can tell, plenty of guys happily use torsen diffs (most of them Quaife it seems) in serious track cars. However drifters don't like them, as a 2-way clutch-pack LSD holds slides better.

IMO for our cars the Quaife is a no-brainer:

1. Not likely to break, won't wear out like a clutch-type.
2. Good daily-driving manners
3. As good as a clutch-type (or close enough) around a track
4. Lifetime guarantee

Got a bit of video here of my Ralliart demonstrating the LSD kicking in. If you play the file, then press stop you will see the first picture is of the front right wheel smoking up, then hit play and you'll see pretty much instantly the front left wheel kicks into action and starts spinning too.

www.ecn.net.au/~belated/lsd.avi

Got a bit of video here of my Ralliart demonstrating the LSD kicking in. If you play the file, then press stop you will see the first picture is of the front right wheel smoking up, then hit play and you'll see pretty much instantly the front left wheel kicks into action and starts spinning too.

www.ecn.net.au/~belated/lsd.avi

Nice little clip :cool:

I've got no doubt that these sorts of diffs will transfer power to the wheel with grip when one wheel starts to slip, in less than the blink of an eye (I mean thats what they are designed to do), the point I'm making is that the cusco diff, set to 1 way bascially couples the wheels together (so there is no slip between them) as soon as power is applied thru the gearbox. So when you're powering thru corners at 60+km/h, both wheels are receiving the same amount of torque, and the result is the most amazing sensation of being pulled thru the corner, even if you're no where near the threshold of breaking traction.

If it wasn't for the fact that it broke in 5 months - I think I'd rather a clutch pack LSD over a "automatic torque biasing" LSD. It might be a bitch at low speed but it more than makes up for it when cornering at above 3000rpm in 2nd gear :badgrin:

Anyway - I'm now whinging, because it's gonna (hopefully) make the car more reliable, and thats the main thing I'm trying to achieve at the moment. (did I mention my car has spent 8 months off the road since July last year??)

Nice little clip :cool:

I've got no doubt that these sorts of diffs will transfer power to the wheel with grip when one wheel starts to slip, in less than the blink of an eye (I mean thats what they are designed to do), the point I'm making is that the cusco diff, set to 1 way bascially couples the wheels together (so there is no slip between them) as soon as power is applied thru the gearbox. So when you're powering thru corners at 60+km/h, both wheels are receiving the same amount of torque, and the result is the most amazing sensation of being pulled thru the corner, even if you're no where near the threshold of breaking traction.

If it wasn't for the fact that it broke in 5 months - I think I'd rather a clutch pack LSD over a "automatic torque biasing" LSD. It might be a bitch at low speed but it more than makes up for it when cornering at above 3000rpm in 2nd gear :badgrin:

Anyway - I'm now whinging, because it's gonna (hopefully) make the car more reliable, and thats the main thing I'm trying to achieve at the moment. (did I mention my car has spent 8 months off the road since July last year??)
I cut it short cause the rest of it is not something I want floating around the net. :badgrin:

I understand the rest of what you're saying so I'll just say to you - wait and see. Reliability is very important as you've mentioned. That's a long time off the road for any car. You coming to the Sunny Coast cruise on the 28th October man? Be good to see you and Sports come in your cars. :cool: We don't always agree on everything and butt heads sometimes, but we all have a love for cars and don't like seeing people having problems with their pride and joy. :(

We don't always agree on everything and butt heads sometimes, but we all have a love for cars and don't like seeing people having problems with their pride and joy. :(Hugs all round guys!

I've got no doubt that these sorts of diffs will transfer power to the wheel with grip when one wheel starts to slip, in less than the blink of an eye (I mean thats what they are designed to do), the point I'm making is that the cusco diff, set to 1 way bascially couples the wheels together (so there is no slip between them) as soon as power is applied thru the gearbox. So when you're powering thru corners at 60+km/h, both wheels are receiving the same amount of torque, and the result is the most amazing sensation of being pulled thru the corner, even if you're no where near the threshold of breaking traction.

Anyway - I'm now whinging, because it's gonna (hopefully) make the car more reliable, and thats the main thing I'm trying to achieve at the moment. (did I mention my car has spent 8 months off the road since July last year??)

From what I can tell a clutch-plate is no faster around a track than a torsen, however from you and others have described, I suspect it does feel better when you're fanging it.

I've noticed with the torsen diffs you can feel the front end give a bit of a wiggle as it does its thing and shuffles power around. I havn't driven a car with a clutch-plate lsd, but I'm guessing it has a smoother power-down sensation when being driven hard?

Anyway I'll be very interested to hear what you have to say when your car goes back on the road with the Quaife, as you'll be able to give us a direct comparison between the two.

Btw equal torque to both wheels is not desirable (unless you wanto drift), there's a reason why street and grip-driving track cars don't use lockers. I assume the Cusco unit, like the Quaife, would be shuffling most of the torque to the outside wheel under cornering. However the way it does it is different, my impression is it happens more smoothly and than with the torsens. Although of course that depends on how you setup the diff, with clutch-plates you can adjust how hard/quickl they "bite" etc, torsens aren't adjustable.

I love this thread. :)

I will be waiting patiently for more detailed reviews of guys that have fitted the Quiff units.

Btw equal torque to both wheels is not desirable (unless you wanto drift), there's a reason why street and grip-driving track cars don't use lockers. I assume the Cusco unit, like the Quaife, would be shuffling most of the torque to the outside wheel under cornering. However the way it does it is different, my impression is it happens more smoothly and than with the torsens. Although of course that depends on how you setup the diff, with clutch-plates you can adjust how hard/quickl they "bite" etc, torsens aren't adjustable.

I don't know exactly how they work (either type of LSD for that matter), but my understanding is that a torque sensing LSD should be "smoother" than a clutch pack LSD. From what I've read, torsen LSD's constantly vary the degree of torque across the axle when one wheel has less traction. But Clutch pack LSD's have a set pre-load of slip (dictated by the clutch spring pressures I'm assuming), and are either "on" or "off". Hence why my car would chirp the inside wheel, clunk, shake and carry on when driving around shopping centre car parks at low speed.

But I guess I will have to wait until I get my car back before I know for sure what the difference will be. But I'm expecting it to be alot more like a std open diff than my old LSD.

Since a clutch pack type is only ever going to transfer a max of 50% of the engines max torque to one axle, but a torsen is capable of theoretically trasnferring 100% (in reality probably 80%) of the torque to one axle, is this going to create problems with broken or severely shorten the life of CV joints?

I cut it short cause the rest of it is not something I want floating around the net. :badgrin:

I understand the rest of what you're saying so I'll just say to you - wait and see. Reliability is very important as you've mentioned. That's a long time off the road for any car. You coming to the Sunny Coast cruise on the 28th October man? Be good to see you and Sports come in your cars. :cool: We don't always agree on everything and butt heads sometimes, but we all have a love for cars and don't like seeing people having problems with their pride and joy. :(


I'd love to come on a cruise, but it wont be rebuilt by then :cry:

Well it hardly fills you with confidence when you drop your brand new quaife LSD off to your local Gearbox and Diff specialist and he says "gee it's small, hope it's not going to break with all that power you got running thru it" :doubt:


You coming to the Sunny Coast cruise on the 28th October man? Be good to see you and Sports come in your cars. :cool: We don't always agree on everything and butt heads sometimes, but we all have a love for cars and don't like seeing people having problems with their pride and joy. :(

I should have the car back by the end of next week, and it would be good to catch up and see your new toy. Shame Sports can't make it - I haven't seen a sprintex magna in the flesh yet.

Yay. My zorst *should* be done by then. But the way things are going atm I'm not counting on it.

Well I'm back from Wakefield, and am thrilled with the Quaife, the difference on the track compared to an open diff is staggering :)

Previously, even on R-comps, I had to be fairly delicate with the throttle on corner exit, to avoid spinning up the inside and ploughing off-line.

In comparison, it feels like I can virtually mash the throttle, and it'll just grip up and haul out of the corners, with the front end staying on line.

Coming from an open diff, it's quite an odd sensation on the track. When I get on the throttle the front end momentarily squirms like it's going to start ploughing, but instead it settles and then refuses to understeer much, unless you get really silly.

Also I noticed an odd sensation where If I had mild mid-corner understeer, getting on the throttle would actually seem to pull the front end back in line. With an open diff this was a recipe for ploughing off the track.

So how much faster were you faster than last time out?

So how much faster were you faster than last time out?

Only 1 second, but this isn't an accurate representation of the difference.

For much of the day I was having problems with the front tyres overheating severly and my corner speeds were suffering as a result (look at my Wakefield thread in the General section for details).

By the time I finally had it sorted late in the day, on my last timed session I was fatigued and my laps were a bit messy (1:18s).

From the feel of it I reckon it's worth around 3 seconds per lap around Wakefield, the difference on power-down is enormous, and it makes the car much more pleasant to drive on the track.

I assume with consderable more than stock power, the difference would be greater.

Only 1 second, but this isn't an accurate representation of the difference.

For much of the day I was having problems with the front tyres overheating severly and my corner speeds were suffering as a result (look at my Wakefield thread in the General section for details).

By the time I finally had it sorted late in the day, on my last timed session I was fatigued and my laps were a bit messy (1:18s).

From the feel of it I reckon it's worth around 3 seconds per lap around Wakefield, the difference on power-down is enormous, and it makes the car much more pleasant to drive on the track.

I assume with consderable more than stock power, the difference would be greater.

Good to hear you were happy with the difference mate!! All going well, my car should be ready by end of next week.

Hey does anyone happen to know off the top of their head how many litres of fluid it takes to completely refill and empty manual gearbox?? I should know but can't remember.

Good to hear you were happy with the difference mate!! All going well, my car should be ready by end of next week.

Hey does anyone happen to know off the top of their head how many litres of fluid it takes to completely refill and empty manual gearbox?? I should know but can't remember.
3L and I use this stuff.. Motul GEAR FF-LSD TYPE 2 75W90 and its great in the ralliart box.

3L and I use this stuff.. Motul GEAR FF-LSD TYPE 2 75W90 and its great in the ralliart box.

Cheers mate - yeah thats the fluid I used last time round and I was very happy with it. So I'll be getting some more for this fill.