righto, i can get my hands on up to 3 alpine type x's very cheap.... under 400 dollars each :D , the guys selling them has them out of the car so i dont know if i can see them running, im just wondering if theres a basic test i can do to see the vc is fried or something, i was thinking i could take along my multimeter and put it across the + and - of each vc, but im wondering, if its fried, what kind of reading can i expect 0 ohm's? or would it be a greater reading than what the vc is rated at (being dual 4 ohm), aslo if its not fried would i get a reading of 4ohm's i think i read somewhere it would read a little bit lower or higher than the rating, also if it has been cooked (ive never fried or seen a burnt out sub) should i look for any burn marks or anything anywhere?
cheers all
tom

do you know how he has been running the subs? what amp he used?
cause they are pretty good subs and made from some good components
dont know if you can test it with a multimeter
best way would be to hook it up to an amp and test it out
or take it to alberts or something

righto, i can get my hands on up to 3 alpine type x's very cheap.... under 400 dollars each :D , the guys selling them has them out of the car so i dont know if i can see them running, im just wondering if theres a basic test i can do to see the vc is fried or something, i was thinking i could take along my multimeter and put it across the + and - of each vc, but im wondering, if its fried, what kind of reading can i expect 0 ohm's? or would it be a greater reading than what the vc is rated at (being dual 4 ohm), aslo if its not fried would i get a reading of 4ohm's i think i read somewhere it would read a little bit lower or higher than the rating, also if it has been cooked (ive never fried or seen a burnt out sub) should i look for any burn marks or anything anywhere?
cheers all
tom
If its totally gone you will get a reading of 0 ohms as there is no circuit. Otherwise expect around 2-3 ohms for a 4 ohm sub.

Another test is to push the cone down gently and listen for a scraping noise against the voice coil. This can show that the sub has been abused.
You can also push the cone on one side, a good cone will keep rigid and the entire cone will move down evenly. Even though you are only pushing down one side. A poor cone will bend much more around where you are pushing.

At the end of the day it is hard to say, you make a judgement call buying second hand, does the person know what they are talking about? Who installed it? most importantly what was powering it and was it used for DB drags?

I have bought heaps of gear 2nd hand and never had any problems.

Good luck

cool thanks tim, hes selling a mrd-1000m??? i think, the older style v12 mono block, in his post he says "selling 3 x apline type x's and 3000w mono block" (im not sure about the specs on this amp, but im sure its 1000w rms at 2 ohm, not sure if they list a peak power rating and thats what he saw???) that made me think that maybe he was thinking "hmm well 3 type x's = 3000watts so ill run em all off the one amp!" and maybe he's ****ed em now and thats why he's selling... but for $375 a pop i just have to check em out, i dont really need one but i cant say no at that price lol

i dont really need one but i cant say no at that price lol
This is the reason why I have a room filled with car audio...:cry:

the mrd-1001 monoblocks are last years models well 2005
they rms at 1000watts at 2ohm
he could still run them fine if wired up in parreral as it would give 2.6ohm at the amp
dont know if there would be any damage done to the voice coils but you never know
for that price i would check them out

edit Tim: Err sorry noob moderator pressed edit instead of reply... :(

In reply to your caasq post which I just deleted

*still laughing*

Yeah go for it... lots of advice here if you need it!

:)

bloody noobs lol some one take away his moderators license :P well i shall let you's know if theyre all duds or i picked up a bargain.... then i can start yet another new install


p.s (to tim/woob/who ever can answer) i got focal K2 power 165 KF's up front, i find the tweeter quite harsh and (sometimes) sibilant (spelling??) and med/higher levels, can you suggest a warmer sounding tweeter or maybe splits (i do quite like the midbass these have), ive heard dyn are a very warm sounding speaker, and even vifa tweets to be a good option... help appreciated
tom

Recommend vifa xt25s! Cheap as chips and an awesome tweeter if you can fit them in

Otherwise Morel Supremo (what im using), Dynaudio, Scanspeak are all very natural sounding tweets.

Whats the budget though and do you plan on running these through the passive focal xover?

The focals are known for being overly bright/harsh.

Peace

Tim

budget... not to sure of at the moment, ive heard great things about the vifa's, as for active/passive.... undecided, was thinking of getting another audison srx 2.s an going active, or possibly selling the srx2.s i have now and get 2 audison srx 2's... ooooor getting an srx 2 running the mids off the srx2.s and the tweets of the srx2.... so many options, so little money, also how wide are the xt25's? i love the look of the ring radiator style tweeters, also what can i expect to pay for them, think i saw some one say like 250 a pair iirc
thanks for all the help so far,
tom

like $80 - $90 for the xt25s :)

They are pretty big, around 4" iirc...

edit: Prices are:
$98 unshielded (http://www.advanceae.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6_202_70&products_id=2470)
$120 shielded (http://www.advanceae.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6_202_70&products_id=2471)
(Unshielded is fine for car environment)

They suit active, but this comes with added expense (wiring, amps, active crossovers)

Peace

Tim

like $80 - $90 for the xt25s :)

They are pretty big, around 4" iirc...

80-90 each? once again.... at that price how can i say no lol
and meh to the 4 inches.... just another excuse for cusom kick panels or f/glassing them into the a-pillars.... i like it when it takes some work to get it in... its half the fun :P

Updated prices above with links I've bought stuff from advance before so no probs there it is an Aussie store.

i take it its 98 and 120 each yeh? also whats the difference between the shielded and un-shielded?

Yep each...

Shielded is for use near tv's etc where there is high voltage / current that can cause interference. In the car environment this is negligible.

You 'could' spend the extra money and go shielded but you probably wouldnt notice any audible difference as its a high level signal by the time it gets to the tweets.

And the extra size is harder to install as well

where would you reccomend mounting these for a nice deep sound stage and good imageing?
my current h/u is the entry level pioneer dvd one, avh-p5750dvd, im looking at switching to an alpine not to sure of model number atm but 9855r springs to mind, something that i can run active off, bass engine pro (t/a etc...)

If you want great imaging with two way i would look to make door pods bringing the mids on axis and then mount these in the kicks or even on the door pods...

You can always mount them high in the sails... you will need time alignment and it will prob only image well from one seat. (fine for amateur caasq classes)

Lots of options still, depends how far you want to go...

Due to the size of these puppies it will require some handyman work though.

seconded on the XT25's, im thinking of getting a pair, but im running a different set of vifa tweets atm, which also sould brilliantly smooth, and do great on and off axis (but better on axis).

ill be making A pillar pods for mine because i only want to compete in Am Street, and my passengers arent audiophile enough to appreciate the quality they would get from proper staging at their seat :P

i tryed mounting them in the kicks, but with any angle i just couldnt get the height quite right, and atm i cant be bothered setting up ambients to raise it, altho ive got a perfectly good pair of CDT silk domes sitting beside me to do it with.

also, $375 is actually a pretty average price for Type-X's second hand.. personally for that price i would look at something like 2 12W6's, or a Diamond TDX or whatnot... or the new Boston 555 woofer, DAMN those things look awesome, and are supposed to be insane

If you want great imaging with two way i would look to make door pods bringing the mids on axis and then mount these in the kicks or even on the door pods...

You can always mount them high in the sails... you will need time alignment and it will prob only image well from one seat. (fine for amateur caasq classes)

Lots of options still, depends how far you want to go...

Due to the size of these puppies it will require some handyman work though.

i want to beat you lol

and dont worry, like i said, tricky instally are half the fun of car audio so im not afraid to get my hands dirty :)

and when you say it will only image well from one seat, is this if i put them in the sail area? or if they go in the kick panel area will that happen aswell?

thx for all your help so far, greatly appreciated
tom

seconded on the XT25's, im thinking of getting a pair, but im running a different set of vifa tweets atm, which also sould brilliantly smooth, and do great on and off axis (but better on axis).

ill be making A pillar pods for mine because i only want to compete in Am Street, and my passengers arent audiophile enough to appreciate the quality they would get from proper staging at their seat :P

i tryed mounting them in the kicks, but with any angle i just couldnt get the height quite right, and atm i cant be bothered setting up ambients to raise it, altho ive got a perfectly good pair of CDT silk domes sitting beside me to do it with.

also, $375 is actually a pretty average price for Type-X's second hand.. personally for that price i would look at something like 2 12W6's, or a Diamond TDX or whatnot... or the new Boston 555 woofer, DAMN those things look awesome, and are supposed to be insane

12w6's are hard to come by second hand... at the moment 12w6 is at the top of my most wanted list, that or a 33kx.... its pretty hard to set up ambients without going active isnt it? cos you need to pass them pretty high, and need to be heavily attenuated? ill probably get the type x just for the time being and work towards the w6 :)