The availability and price of front and rear polyurethane engine mounts for the TP. Thanks

Polyurethane is a foam. Not suitable for engine mounts. I've heard of the product I think you are referring to but can't recall what it is called. Definitely not poyurethane.

Also, when you say front and rear, is that in relation to the car or to the engine? i.e. do you mean the big round mounts at back and front of the engine (left and right of the car). I have no idea of the price of those. However the mounts on the left and right sides of the engine (or front and rear of the engine bay) are about $40 - $48 each from Repco. That is for the standard steel with rubber inserts.

Performance Polyurethane Motor Mount & Transmission Mount Kits to suit all applications

$160.00

• Available for most popular sporty and Performance front wheel drive vehicles in the Mitsububishi, Hyundai and Proton Range

www.rpw.com.au

Hmmm, I wuz wrong! The polurethane I used to use was a foam for seat cushions etc. But apparently the base material itself can be made in a great range of strengths and hardnesses. e.g.
http://www.sdplastics.com/polyuret.html
If $160 is for a full set, that's not a bad price but if it is each it is a bit exy.

or there's the cheap poly option
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32670&highlight=diy


works really well for me:D

I was thinking of cutting away the broken rubber from the busted mounts then using a drill press to cut some wooden disks out of iron wood to size, drilling and fitting the steel bolt guide/insert. Iron wood is strong as hell and should take the heat, but being that rigid maybe the mounts may crack the engine side of the mounts?

smooth I have the 4 engine mounts to do on my tp project
the sikaflex is aprox $19 a tube at bunnings

honest time

how much did you need for that mount in example

true drying time

if good eneough will it last

I need the final job to pass safety .... and not crack open just after

one tube should do 2 1\2- 3 mounts. now i let it dry for 48hrs to be sure that the middles was dry. all 4 mounts have been like that for almost a year now with no signs of cracking or wearing. even had to do a rwc not long after doing them and they never noticed seeing as i used the black sicaflex ( poly in a tube). as for how long it takes to do , that depends on how long it takes to remove the mount otherwise only 5-10mins to tape up and fill with the urethane.

I was thinking that the torque forces have to go somewhere and that they may either break part of the block where the mounts bolt in or break the side rubber mounts in quick order?
i've already cut the iron wood so i'll give it a go. With my luck it'll crack the block where the mounts bolt in.

i used sikaflex in my engine mounts... cut a lot of twisting in the transaxle from changing gears at 6-7k

would that work well for a 2nd gen as well?:confused:

would that work well for a 2nd gen as well?:confused:

it would work for any rubber mounts. dosen't matter what car it's in.

it would work for any rubber mounts. dosen't matter what car it's in.
sweet as thanks mate:D

i just replaced my old crappy engine mounts with the polyurethane mounts from repco and OOH its such a smooth ride now. But if those repco one really are **** then i can get them replaced if they **** up within the next 12 months. Now all i have to replace is my handbrake, muffler and injectors. Those blue ones sound good

wow thanks amc, for bringing my swearing to my attention

Are the repco mounts urethane or just the black hard rubber? How much $ ?

the front and rear ones cost me $120. But different stores gave me a different price.
But i say front and rear in relation to the engine bay so they should be the same in victoria.

Super cheap get polyurethane mounts front and rear for $97 but wouldnt tell me who supplies them.

I must've got ripped again! I paid repco $60 for the rear and $50 for the front and they were the hard black rubber that broke in a few months.

Put in my wooden mounts on saturday and pulled them back out on monday. Vibration was crazy, steering wheel became a blur.

Put in my wooden mounts on saturday and pulled them back out on monday. Vibration was crazy, steering wheel became a blur.

guess your gonna try my way now:D

When I first read your Sikaflex method I went to a wreckers and pulled out a front and rear set of non busted mounts for $13. Went to Bunnings and bought a tube of Sikaflex.
I knew that Blanc meant white so thought that Blanco might mean black, ended up with white!
Laid it to the old mounts hot and heavy, wore disposable gloves to mitigate the mess. When it totally dried after about 1 week I sprayed them black.
Heres where the suck started. When I went to put in the Sikaflexed rear I found that the mount was taller than the usual and wouldnt fit. Went insane with an angle grinder and cut off the 3mm plate on the base and it fitted, sort of. Then the front wouldnt fit due to the raised rear, had a near nervous break down, then raised the engine to the max and got the front mount bolt holes just in view. Put in the bolts and slowly lowered the donk, tightening the bolts as I went.
Its been in for a few days and is probably under some mad sort of tension load, but hasnt busted yet. Sikaflex seems mega strong so hopefully they will hold.