Hi guys!
I'm new on the forum, but hope to get some help here :)
I have Magna TS SE V6 from 1995 and have several questions about changing engine oil and brake pads.
1) What size of spanner do I need for sump plug? Is it 24mm?
2) What size of "0"-ring/washer do I need for sump plug? As I know I need to change it too when changing oil, right? I was in SuperCheapAuto, but they don't know what size of washer for sump plug is for my Magna.

3) Is it hard to change brake pads by myself? I read Gregory's, it looks pretty easy to do... But, does it require the same work if I have ABS on my car?

Thanks!!!:)

G'day and welcome to the Club

Q1. The bolt on my KR is a 22mm
Q2. Cant Help Unfortunatly but i can say the the torque of the bolt is 35-45 nm
Q3. Changing your pads should be a piece of cake, even more so if you have the manual:)

Hope this helps

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Pretty sure it is 24mm, just go to Mitsu and get a new sump plug, chances are that the one you have is chewed, they are only a few dollars and Mitsu will have the rubber washer.
Brake pads are not difficult but depends on your level of competency

oh just a word of warning if you are going to get a new sump "o" ring try and make sure you get a copper one as the rubber ones have a habit of leaking, from my experience anyways.

Thanks for your answers!

One more question :)
What brand of brake pads do you guys recommend to buy?
And sorry for stupid question - do I need to buy 1 pack of pads if want to change them on front wheels??? I mean, is it supposed to be 1 pack of pads for 1 wheel or 2 wheels??? :redface:

1 pack for front and 1 pack for the back.
Most people use bendix but you also got ferodo & lucas, their is more but I can't thibk of them right now.
And stay away from genuine mitsubishi brake pads they are crap and wear out really quick

go with bendix. Pads are easy to change over, i did mine on the weekend.

Thanx everybody
Will try to change it all this weekend

One more question :)
What brand of brake pads do you guys recommend to buy?
And sorry for stupid question - do I need to buy 1 pack of pads if want to change them on front wheels??? I mean, is it supposed to be 1 pack of pads for 1 wheel or 2 wheels??? :redface:

ecb greenstuff is suposed to be good. ive got ferrodo and they do good for stopping and noise. brakes come in pairs. when u buy front brakes pads u'll get both sides same as back.

if your changing brake pads, dont u need the rotors machined?

if your changing brake pads, dont u need the rotors machined?

only if there warped or are very close to being worn out. also when doing ur pads it's a good idea to bleed the brake lines every time the pads get changed so u know there working at there best.

if your changing brake pads, dont u need the rotors machined?

Even if they're worn and need machining, you don't have to (expensive). Needs to be done eventually, but in the short-term its ok. Myself, i need new rotors but im just leaving it until i get the funds (brakes just squeak a little, changed pads tho so they work fine).

Even if they're worn and need machining, you don't have to (expensive). Needs to be done eventually, but in the short-term its ok. Myself, i need new rotors but im just leaving it until i get the funds (brakes just squeak a little, changed pads tho so they work fine).

Wouldn't it be better to put the new rotors rather than machining the old ones? As I can see it's almost the same price... Or it's difficult to change them by myself?

I just had the brakes checked with the service yesterday on the Magna TS V6, as there were some grinding on front right when I would almost stop. New pads all round, 2 new disc's on back (totally warped), both front disc's machined, bolts holding front right caliper were loose. Also replaced drive shaft on leftside, that has needed replacing for 3 yrs. When bleeding brakes one caliper front and back are leaking, so the seals on the calipers will also have to be done. $$$

Ozz

front rotors are easy 2 change 3 bolts and its off price i think fronts for a 1994 ts v6 are $140 i rang yesterday. my brain isnt working so dont hold me to that price.

Well my breaks Squeal ALOT, like if i apply the tiniest amount of pressure they squeal, sounds like replacemetn is in order?

take it to a mechanic you trust and get a 15 point safety check. They'll check rotor width and how much meat you have left on your pads.

The rotors warp with time, this can make a squealing noise. They'll need machining to make them straight again - eventually they fall below regulation width and need replacing (not that expensive as a DIY)

At the end of the day dont get too worried until you get it checked and know the problem. I paid $110 for a good set of bendix pads, thats 2 front and 2 rear. And it takes about an hour to change.

try ebay
brake pads and rotors (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MAGNA-2-FRONT-DISC-ROTORS-FREE-PADS-TR-TS-TE-TF-TH-TJ_W0QQitemZ250073388666QQihZ015QQcategoryZ10400QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

$99 fronts with pads thats a GREAT DEAL $24 shipping

they look like they have rears also

That's only for TR/TS V6, he has a 4cyl.

That's only for TR/TS V6, he has a 4cyl.
No, I've got V6:)
Yep, I've already seen this offer on ebay, sounds good, but are they good enough? I would rather pay a bit more than be stuck with some crap... I can't see what brand disks and pads are :confused:

No, I've got V6:)
Yep, I've already seen this offer on ebay, sounds good, but are they good enough? I would rather pay a bit more than be stuck with some crap... I can't see what brand disks and pads are :confused:

i think they might have been refferring to me lol.
yeh ill see how i go, i just got a rego letter, $540!!!! grrrrr.
ill buy my stuff through work, i get a discount so itll be alot cheaper. ill get dba slotted rotors if my rotors are in need of replacing...

brakes squeal cos the pads are loose... use brake pad glue = no more squeals

i think they might have been refferring to me lol.
yeh ill see how i go, i just got a rego letter, $540!!!! grrrrr.
ill buy my stuff through work, i get a discount so itll be alot cheaper. ill get dba slotted rotors if my rotors are in need of replacing...

tell me about it..just paid insurance, rego due soon and need new tyres.
grr.

Do I need also to change a lower guide pin bolt on the caliper when I change my brake pads???

Gregory's says "Install a new lower guide pin bolt..."
But I bought new brake pads today and there were no any bolts in the box. Where I can find/buy these lower guide pin bolts???
Or I just may use the old ones?

im guessing you're talking about the two bolts that hold the calipers on..
when i changed mine i used the old ones. Make sure you grease them up though, makes it alot easier to get them off next time you do your pads.

im guessing you're talking about the two bolts that hold the calipers on..
when i changed mine i used the old ones. Make sure you grease them up though, makes it alot easier to get them off next time you do your pads.
I used the opposite idea and "Locktited" mine in. Hate to think what would happen if they came out.

Rob

if they're done up tight enough by hand with a socket wrench, you'll be right.

1 pack for front and 1 pack for the back.
Most people use bendix but you also got ferodo & lucas, their is more but I can't thibk of them right now.
And stay away from genuine mitsubishi brake pads they are crap and wear out really quick


Did they chew out the rotors as well? My old Datsun 240k did the same thing with genuine brake pads. Rotors went as fast as the pads - about 2500k's.

Economics: pads $18, genuine. Rotors, if I could find them at the wreckers weren't too bad, but made the savings on the pads look dodgy.

Buying genuine rotors? Priceless.....literally! I thought it was a conspiracy to increase sales of rotors by selling cheap grinding - er - I mean brake pads

Wanted to change oil today, but couldn't unscrew the sump drain plug.:confused:
Any ideas how to do it?

Wanted to change oil today, but couldn't unscrew the sump drain plug.:confused:
Any ideas how to do it?

turn it with a spanner and excessive use of profanities... kicking always helps 2 :D

Wanted to change oil today, but couldn't unscrew the sump drain plug.:confused:
Any ideas how to do it?
Try a 24mm ring spanner and a hammer. A bit of shock will start it undoing. Make sure you do it in the right direction though!!!!!

Rob

You've jacked up the front, right? I have these nifty two bits of wood that i drive up onto, raises the car up about 50cm :)
I had the same problem first time i changed my oil, mechanic had done it up with power tools from previous owner, so it was hard to get undone. Relax, have a beer, then go nuts with a socket wrench for a bit of leverage.

Wanted to change oil today, but couldn't unscrew the sump drain plug.:confused:
Any ideas how to do it?

If its too hard to get undone while ur on ur back, see if you can find a hoist to get it up on. This will allow for a lot more leverage. Just make sure you have the right size, last thing you want to do is "round" the head.

But if ya cant find a hoist, grab some "CRC" spray a little round the hex head give it a couple of minutes and give it a whirl. Ring spanner or socket is your best bet.

My sump plug was around 24mm. It was an absolute b*tch to get it off :rant:

I tried, friends tried but nothing worked. Took it to the mechanic and he hoisted it up and used a hammer to hit the bolt and the surrounds of it (I guess to losen the bastard) and then he used the 24mm and got it off with not too much problem :D

So yeah, try by hitting the bolt with a hammer and the surrounds!