As most of you would know that for the magna's front door panel, the speakers sit on a plastic mount, im sure this doesn't give the best sound. I was wondering if anyone has planes on how to replace this with a mdf cut out or anything else?? Iv currently got Pioneer 6" sitting their. And also if its a good idea to the speakers in upside down ( the cone facing the outside of the car ) would this sound better or different??

i've got 6 1/2" splits in those plastic things and they sound great
not sure why you would wanna replace them
the best way to get good sound out of your speakers would be to sound deaden the door

Yeh, they sound good now as well, but people say that it sound even better with mdf? Sound deading by Dynamatting them??

Just chuck a coat of Dynamat in there, unless the mount rattles, no need to replace.

dynamat or stingers road kill
either one is good

iv heard if you go for the cheaper option, it starts to peel off after a while, in the heat? how much dynamat would i need for both doors?

you can buy them in the kits for the doors or the boot
not sure how much you would need tho

yeh, ok thanks, maybe a future project.

I replaced mine with an mdf baffle and spacer. Bit tricky to get the right shape and lining up the existing screw holes. Some may say its overkill but I wanted the best sound possible from my Type X splits. Even threw in some acoustic tiles behind the speakers. If you do make a baffle, be wary of the speakers depth. I didn't have spacers when I first put them in and the speaker magnets scratched my new tint when I wound down my windows. :cry:

I also deadened the inner and outer skins of both my front doors with one Xtreme Dynamat Trunk Kit (20 sq.ft) and still had a bit left over for my bootlid. Still got another Trunk Kit lying around but I'm unsure where to put the stuff.

I was thinking of keeping the plastic spacer but having them coated in fiber glass. That way don't have to worry about getting the shape perfect with mdf and still retain the moulded splash shield behind the speaker.

Definetly replace the crappy plastic baffle. Not too hard at all, I've done it 4 or 5 times now.

I once made an angled baffle
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24273

Now just have the 9" midbasses on a flat baffle

This combined with deadening and you'll be laughing.

Peace

Tim

replaced mine with 18mm MDF, 3 layers of dynamat inside and one outside.
havent pulled finished pics off the camera yet but holes were sealed with 6mm MDF as well and dynamatted over.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/My%20Car/Imgp0459.jpg

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/My%20Car/Imgp0461.jpg

plastic rocks, i've still got plastic in my rada and sounds fine. unless the veradas have different plastic cause of premium sound? im pretty sure its the same.

i bought a pair of sony xplods for mi car today installed the rears (hence, it was my first time installing them but hey it sounded alright for a job done by an amature like me.) and the other pair are still in the box, i could not find a way to disconnect the dash speakers so i could enable the front speakers. But i currently hooked the speaker wire to the stock speaker wire that came with mi car........good thing or bad thing.,....(once again i am a noob :)

The plastic is fine unless you plan on pumping a fair bit of power through your speakers, say more than 50W. Are your speakers amped? You can get mdf baffles made up for about $80 and save yourself a lot of hassle.

No don't turn your speakers round to face the outside of the car.

335W RMS from a Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4 running 8 inch Dynaudio MW170's
3 layers of Dynamat and 18mm MDF
Sure beats ANY factory plastic !

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/My%20Car/8-1.jpg

Put sound off behind your door trim as well otherwise they flex and creak like all hell.

Lookin good, the Dyns are sweet mids.

*and seal up those pesky service holes :)

the only hole left is for the air con vent going up to the window. I have put dynamat on the door panels as well.
I have dynxorb behind the speakers over the dynamat. Tapping the door from outside it sounds like concrete.

This pic was taken when I had 6.5's before I went to 8'

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o182/sjh350/My%20Car/2.jpg

Hmmm not sure about the veradas but pretty sure the aircon vent goes through the door trim... That is just an access hole, you can plug it up no problems.

Yeah i have acoustic tiles behind mine...

A few other things you might want to do for door prep

Wrap your lock rods in blutack (go nuts) and then in electrical tape to seal them, deadens them and stops them buzzing.

(for non power window models) Fill your window winder with sound off esp behind the roller and an elastic band around the actual roller too

Take apart the door cards, paint sound off behind them and place foam in b/w there and the door trim.

Deaden all around the aircon vent from inside the trim, this is a tough one to deaden but you can quieten it eventually.

Take apart the actual stock speaker grille you can remove the rear of it and screw straight through the holes in the trim, gives you a bit more excursion for big drivers.

Theres probably more i havent looked in my doors for a while.

where abouts are you?

Melbourne

Hmmm not sure about the veradas but pretty sure the aircon vent goes through the door trim... That is just an access hole, you can plug it up no problems.


Thats correct, I've blocked mine up.
I haven't replaced the plastic baffle yet as the 6.5" Morels are moving to the back and I'm getting some better 6" Morels for the front. Will be putting them on MDF baffles.

http://file004b.bebo.com/large/2006/02/05/11/7733404a263401968b624975433l.jpg

Melbourne

Ahh was hoping to catch up and have a chat. Oh well

Does it make any difference to the sound if the speaker is angled like it is in tims speaker mount (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24273) or just flat like the single piece of 18mm mdf sam used for his 8 inches?

If not it could save some hassle!

For what its worth might be better to stick with the flat baffle 2 hours work compared to half a day. Make sure your tweets are angled. Otherwise it raises the stage height a bit and helps out with imaging.

The best way to achieve this is to create proper pods on the outside of the door trim, the trim on the earlier 3rd gens is a bit restrictive.

Yeah thats what i thought. And anyway, if i'm not happy with how it sounds, i should be able to modify the baffle to have an angle on it some time in the future.

About the door trims, do i just unscrew the airflow duct cover and the rest of the trim will just pop off?

Refer to the wiki:
Many hints and tips in there

http://www.wermspowke.net/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

wow thanks! :D