I've read that the front bearings are sealed and press fitted. How hard are they to replace or is it a job for a pro mechanic? Thanks

Might get a pro to do the front, I think the grinding when I take a sweeping left turn is the right front.
Is there an online step by step for the rear bearings? Rear is making sqealing sounds at 60kmh and clicking sounds when I slow down.

hey buff in the manual it's tells you to use a hub removal to to press out the hub. what do u use? also how do u press it all back into place without the tool and without damaging the bearing? im gonna do mine soon so i thought id pick ur brain first:D

I think I killed the rear bearing by overtightening the bolt to reduce play a while back. I bought a replacement set so I'll give it a go.

pls keep us updated on any problems u come across like this. and any solutions u come up with cos i want to do mine soon. and i'll let u be the ginea pig:D

I replaced the rear bearings and found that the rear brake pads only have a wafer of pad material left but had real dramas trying to force the piston back in to make room for the new pads. Ended up putting the worn out ones back on.
Whats the answer? Buy one of those brake clamps or open the bleed valve and reduce the fluid pressure?

When I did mine, I used a "G" clamp (intended for woodworking) to force the pistons in. They are quite cheap - just a couple of dollars. According to the manual, you have to be careful when doing this because the brake reservoir can overflow. However I've never had that problem.

When I was did mine, I used a "G" clamp (intended for woodworking) to force the pistons in. They are quite cheap - just a couple of dollars. According to the manual, you have to be careful when doing this because the brake reservoir can overflow. However I've never had that problem.


noooooooooooooooooooooooo don't do this cos u WILL screw your rear brakes.
the rear brake cly is a screw in type , so if u clamp it is will sqwash like a coke can inside the calipar . i know ive done this.

the clamp is fine for the front cos it just slides in and out not screws in and out like the rear.

and always bleed the brake after changing the pads so u know there working at there best.
so herman if u need any pages scanned out of the manual let me know and i'll scan them for u. the rear brake are different to the fronts.

noooooooooooooooooooooooo don't do this cos u WILL screw your rear brakes.
the rear brake cly is a screw in type , so if u clamp it is will sqwash like a coke can inside the calipar . i know ive done this.

"G" clamps have a swivel joint on the pad at the moveable end which allows that end to rotate as it pushes in. It doesn't or shouldn't take much force, provided it is centred. I only use finger pressure on the clamp. It's not much different to the brake pad pushing back on the piston when in use or the fluid pushing the piston from the other side.

"G" clamps have a swivel joint on the pad at the moveable end which allows that end to rotate as it pushes in. It doesn't or shouldn't take much force, provided it is centred. I only use finger pressure on the clamp. It's not much different to the brake pad pushing back on the piston when in use or the fluid pushing the piston from the other side.

still id NEVER clamp the rear brakes. wouldnn't bother taking the chance. just cause it worked once dosen't mean it will the next time. it very very easy to wind the piston back in. all u have to do is turn the 12mm nut on the back for the handbrake cable. turn the nut a little and it will stink in a bit and keep doing that. might take a few mins to do but u won't screw ur brakes. even the manual states not to clamp it. only the front brakes should be clamped.

I read a bit of the Gregorys manual and they are taling about undoing handbrake cables and Syringing 2/3rds of the fluid out of the reservoir.

My reservoir always needs topping up so maybe some sort of seal or piston is shot? No light coming on indicating the master cylinder is stuffed so it must be at the calipers?

My left rear caliper appears jammed on, as the handbrake spur is stuck down , spring tension maxed out, and the pad brake pad is worn out. Whilst the right rear appears not to be working at all, has plenty of pad left and the pads appear rusted as though they never get heated to dry off grime.

Is there a set of seals commonly available to reco the calipers? I'm thinking of getting a set of rear calipers from the wreckers, get them up to speed and install as a complete unit rather than take mine off, stuff up the repair and be stranded.
I read that there is a dedicated brake spanner for disconecting the brake lines?

:sook: no one reads my posts anymore

maybe.. cause you always delete them? :doubt: :doubt: :belt:

maybe.. cause you always delete them? :doubt: :doubt: :belt:

cos he knows moe.... kekekekeke

I got two rear calipers from a wreckers, only drama was they are from a sedan and on returning home found they are different from a rear wagon caliper. Fitting the left rear sedan caliper to he right rear wagon and right rear sedan to left rear wagon looks to do the business. only question will be the difference in the brake line fitting. Whether the rear sedan female will take the rear wagon male? other than that hoping it cobbles together ok.