I love my stereo.

I love Rapid acceleration.

The problem.

My sterio weighs LOTS. All up its around 100kg.
my car only weighs 1250kg standard.
add 100kg of stereo and the power to weight ratio turns to crap.

should i remove the stereo to get back my performance and take advantage of the modifications ive made to the car?
or is there a way i can have the best of both worlds?
Can i still have a big bassy powerful stereo with out 2x12" and a 70kg box and amps?
Am i going to be disapointed with just a light weight 10" sub?

I think that you can get lightweight speakers and amps, they just cost a s**tload more!

Oh and Pioneer has just released there lightweight subs, about 5cms deep and really light.

There comes a time when you have to work out your priorities...

You can do what I have and keep a 10" sub mounted in some plastic pressure pipe, pretty damn loud, but the speaker weighs more than the enclosure :) and its removable.

I used to have a pair of 15" subs, but now I am battling industrial deafness as a result. It is embarrasing to have people yell at you all the time so that you can hear them... But thats another kettle of fish altogether...

Hearing aids are also very expensive. :doubt: 3 years of stupidity that I'll regret the rest of my life.

Cheers
Heath Young

i'd just go with a large front stage, with a single amp

I would pull it out and change it to the following:
Good front stage with high end splits so you get you midbass
Single quality 12" sub
Couple amps for the sub and splits
Simple boot install so you limit weight from MDF

It looks like you've found the natural frequency of your spoiler. There seem to be three ways to approach the problem, remove the problem (spolier), isolate the spolier, or change the natural frequency of the spolier (by changing its weight or shape). It you can't stop the support mounts vibrating by damping the boot lid, you may be able dampen the spoiler by attaching weights to the inside of the spolier mounts (inside the boot lid). This would be similar in principle to the bob weights used on motorbike handle bars to reduce vibration.

I wish you well.

Ken

Ahh, opps, I had two threads on boot/spoiler vibration and I still got it wrong. How can I move this reply? Humbly, stupidly, Ken

It looks like you've found the natural frequency of your spoiler. There seem to be three ways to approach the problem, remove the problem (spolier), isolate the spolier, or change the natural frequency of the spolier (by changing its weight or shape). It you can't stop the support mounts vibrating by damping the boot lid, you may be able dampen the spoiler by attaching weights to the inside of the spolier mounts (inside the boot lid). This would be similar in principle to the bob weights used on motorbike handle bars to reduce vibration.

I wish you well.

Ken

wrong thread methinks u meant the other one :bowrofl:

I would pull it out and change it to the following:
Good front stage with high end splits so you get you midbass
Single quality 12" sub
Couple amps for the sub and splits
Simple boot install so you limit weight from MDF

:stoopid: agree with the above
ive had a small hatch before and one 12" was enough
so all you need is:
1x quality 12" sub and monoblock
set of decent splits and some cheapy coaxials as rear fill
either a good 2ch or a 4ch amp will be fine
mount the amps under the seats and grab yourself a single 12" box and your done

if weight is a big issue, i always recommend 2 DD 1008 subs in the stock parcel shelf positions, running free air, or fabricate some small 1cuft enclosures under the parcel.
DD SS1 amp to run the woofers + Alpine PDX or Jaycar 4x50 is all youll need for the front stage, both are light as.

when that your audio will total about 25kg :)

I think you're thinking of the TM-TP models being 1250kg+

The TR's start at 1335kg, yours being an SE it would be even more, plenty of power to go around though :)

I think you're thinking of the TM-TP models being 1250kg+

The TR's start at 1335kg, yours being an SE it would be even more, plenty of power to go around though :)

he's actually not talking about his magna as it had been sold
hes refering to his voltswagon golf

he's actually not talking about his magna as it had been sold
hes refering to his voltswagon golf

:confused: :bowrofl:

haha volkswagens


my mate has one of them a VR6 but if its auto they are slow pokes, my $400 valiant with burnt out clutch beat it over and over and over....

but lucky for you the sell vee dubs everywhere.... and there is tons of performance upgrades for them

so spend the $$$ hotting it up and then fot the occasional thrash take the system out... cos face it for the $$$ your going to spend on some more decent audio, how much weight are you going to save???? 20kg tops or save weight in areas where it make a massive difference wheels tyres flywheel etc...

I'd take it out. I've simply replaced my speakers with high quality ones and amped them with the amp mounted discreetly to the boot sidewall. Sounds awesome and wouldnt weigh much more than the stock system. I used to have a sub in my previous car, and seriously, I don't think they are worth the hassle and inconvenience if you want a nippy little car.

haha volkswagens


my mate has one of them a VR6 but if its auto they are slow pokes, my $400 valiant with burnt out clutch beat it over and over and over....

but lucky for you the sell vee dubs everywhere.... and there is tons of performance upgrades for them

so spend the $$$ hotting it up and then fot the occasional thrash take the system out... cos face it for the $$$ your going to spend on some more decent audio, how much weight are you going to save???? 20kg tops or save weight in areas where it make a massive difference wheels tyres flywheel etc...

youve been racing some crappy slow golf then mate because some of em are fast as hell. awesome cars, my mates about to buy a 2007 GTi

youve been racing some crappy slow golf then mate because some of em are fast as hell. awesome cars, my mates about to buy a 2007 GTi


good for him, but we are talking about a golf VR6 here 125 or 128kw they are, ohh and a $400 3 on the tree valiant will still own a new gti, and if it cant beat one im sure that if i reversed into it i'd win easily :badgrin: not bad for a car that costs less than the golfs front brake pads lol


i still say hot it up, and toss the stereo gear when you wanna go faster.... but the leather seats you have also look fat... so minimize weight by removing the whole interior and just leave the drivers seat, only take you about 15min to do that mod and it's free...

:badgrin: not bad for a car that costs less than the golfs front brake pads lol

There is a reason for that mate. Why does having the "fastest" car, no matter how ****ty give you a larger penis? Its pathetic.

Don't remove your leather seats mate that would be sacrilige.

There is a reason for that mate. Why does having the "fastest" car, no matter how ****ty give you a larger penis? Its pathetic.

Don't remove your leather seats mate that would be sacrilige.

HAHA. i can remove the rear seats very simply, they just unclip,


good for him, but we are talking about a golf VR6 here 125 or 128kw they are, ohh and a $400 3 on the tree valiant will still own a new gti, and if it cant beat one im sure that if i reversed into it i'd win easily :badgrin: not bad for a car that costs less than the golfs front brake pads lol


i still say hot it up, and toss the stereo gear when you wanna go faster.... but the leather seats you have also look fat... so minimize weight by removing the whole interior and just leave the drivers seat, only take you about 15min to do that mod and it's free...

With current mods, im looking at around 200hp. (150kw @ the flywheel) It beat a EVO 3 the other weekend, so there is no doubting its got balls. The new Golf GTi does 0-100 in around 7.3 sec. mine does it in 6.9 - 7.0. you might be thinking of a polo GTi, 0-100 7.9 - 8.0

lol, old Val beat a GTi, your DREAMING, it would have no chance in the world. my mate has loads of Val's (9 at one point), and his worked charger would have a hard time against a GTi.

Ive decided on a system.

Im going to make a new parcel shelf, and fit a pair of 8" Jaycar response subs in a ported box on the under side of the shelf.

should work ok, but it will never hold a light to the 2x12".

It wil be light, and thats all that maters.

You should check out the range of slim subs, made by SWS and Pioneer (as far as I know).

They're much smaller than regular subs, but still pack a punch. Potential for fitment under seats, in rear parcel shelves & etc.

Link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pioneer-TSSW3041D-12-Subwoofer-Shallow-Pick-Truck-Sub_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38647QQihZ008QQitem Z180086868641QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V

Free plug to whoever's selling that ! :cool:

if you still want a high quality system, the DD 1508's or 1008's are your best bet, $230 per sub, give em 400W RMS each, and people will think youve still got 12" woofers.

Why not do some extra mods to your engine ?

Why not do some extra mods to your engine ?

turbo it to offset the power loss through the extra stereo

(if its turboed then wind the boost up:P)

Id keep the Stereo mate....

Acceleration is fun....but good sound is IMPORTANT!

m2c

It beat a EVO 3 the other weekend, so there is no doubting its got balls.

Evo III?

As in 1995 Lancer GSR Evo III?

The very same car that can post a 0-100 in 5.0seconds? The one that has 270bhp?

"Tell him he's dreamin!"

Might want to get your car looked at.. Im pretty sure you arent near 150kw at the fly from a cat change and exhaust.. (120kw stock i think yeah?)




Stick with the stereo..

Science your dreamin there i told him baino :bowrofl:

if you want sound and car with acceleration get a car with bigger motor lol

supercharge your car. then you will beat an evo 9 for sure

YAY love being sarcastic lol

Yeah, I love the Evo 3, pity people still ask around $25,000 for em... :noway:

Evo III?

As in 1995 Lancer GSR Evo III?

The very same car that can post a 0-100 in 5.0seconds? The one that has 270bhp?

"Tell him he's dreamin!"

Might want to get your car looked at.. Im pretty sure you arent near 150kw at the fly from a cat change and exhaust.. (120kw stock i think yeah?)




Stick with the stereo..
it was not a gsr.
and the bloke was pissed that i beat him, and claimed his was stock.
Its 129kw stock, and ive done cat, pipe, and induction. the stock car is very restricive, as is the airbox.
im also saving for a Vortech supercharger and water to air intercooler, im looking at a 10psi kit, good for a claimed 320hp.

im also saving for a Vortech supercharger and water to air intercooler, im looking at a 10psi kit, good for a claimed 320hp.

Then why even bother with these "my car isnt fast enough because of the stereo" thoughts because once you've saved enough for the supercharger it won't even matter.

Then why even bother with these "my car isnt fast enough because of the stereo" thoughts because once you've saved enough for the supercharger it won't even matter.
because i cant afford it yet!

then make do for now, like everyone else does.

(read this in your head with Italian accent)

I tell you once, I tell you twice, I not tell you a third time. Always Kw's over dB's

Seriously, would 100KG make that much difference. Take the sterio out and recover your lost accelaration, then have one decent 6foot passenger of around 100KG and your back to where you stared.
Win-loose or Win-loose

(read this in your head with Italian accent)

I tell you once, I tell you twice, I not tell you a third time. Always Kw's over dB's

Seriously, would 100KG make that much difference. Take the sterio out and recover your lost accelaration, then have one decent 6foot passenger of around 100KG and your back to where you stared.
Win-loose or Win-loose

Or fit 100kg stereo, take 6 foot passenger and lose badly.........

@1250kg my power to weight ratio is 120kw/tonne.
@1350kg my power to weight ratio is 111.1kw/tonne.

Tell me thats not a big differance.

i refer you to the the thread in the members lounge, im sure there are some members more than willing to help strip the excess weight from ur golf, and then still keep the subs and go faster all for free :D when do we start lol

forget the kw's it's the nm's and im with the others there is no way a 10yo golf with intake mods has 150kw at the fly, it must be a damn good air cleaner to give it 150kw up from 128kw stock

i refer you to the the thread in the members lounge, im sure there are some members more than willing to help strip the excess weight from ur golf, and then still keep the subs and go faster all for free :D when do we start lol
The only person Gas Axeing my golf is me!
And only then to cut out the gaurds to fit the wide body kit!

Or fit 100kg stereo, take 6 foot passenger and lose badly.........

@1250kg my power to weight ratio is 120kw/tonne.
@1350kg my power to weight ratio is 111.1kw/tonne.

Tell me thats not a big differance.

Thats a hard decision for you to make Kw's or dB's. Even a bit hard to make a compromise???. Personly im all for Kw's