Alright guys, I've got a feeling either my plugs and/or leads are dodgey (Both need replacing anyway) but I thought I'd throw something up to get a common opinion.

When driving at about 1500 to 2300RPM in higher gears (3-5, its a manual) I get a stutter, like a miss but it seems like a BIG miss. I am yet to pull all my plugs and check if one/they are baked or not. I did pull plug #2 and it seemed in good condition for a crappy $2 plug that's been in there for atleast 6 months. Will be throwing some newies in all round this weekend but I'm just wondering if anyone has had this and has replaced plugs or the leads to fix.

6 plugs and a lead set will cost probably the same so I want to know which to do rather than do the plugs and it ending up being the leads etc..

Anyone know how to test leads for continuity etc with a multimeter? I thought I'd check for holes in the leads (incase its arcing out of the lead) and **** too this w/end.

/end.of

my first gen was doing something similar. it would stutter as u say but also lose power for a split second. so i bought a can of crc contact cleaner thats used for high end electrical products like computers and the like. then cleaned all the electrical connections in the car and no more problems after that. it leaves no residue behind, alot of computer techs use it and for 12 bucks for a huge can it goes along way. might not hurt to try that before shelling out a bit of money on leads, spark plug,dizzy cap and rotor etc etc . also how olds ur fuel filter?

About 2 months or so, and it doesn't happen in first, even if I really slap it so I didn't consider fuel at all.

Mines having a similar prob now, In 1000-2000 if I put the engine under load it misfires, feels stuttering as you said. Im just gunna change the leads and see if that solves it.

Mines having a similar prob now, In 1000-2000 if I put the engine under load it misfires, feels stuttering as you said. Im just gunna change the leads and see if that solves it.

Is it major or just one miss?

Does it only happen under fairly heavy throttle/engine load?

Does it only happen under fairly heavy throttle/engine load?

For me, yeah, only happens when i've got my foot down a fair way. Well i can't seem to find it when revving freely that is, and it doesn't seem to happen in first or second (unless i go through those gears too fast to notice..)

For me, yeah, only happens when i've got my foot down a fair way. Well i can't seem to find it when revving freely that is, and it doesn't seem to happen in first or second (unless i go through those gears too fast to notice..)

Sounds ignition related... definately change plugs for a start & make sure they're the correct gap. Try that, and run a tank of premium ulp. See if theres any difference.

..unless.. do 3L's have knock sensors? (2nd gens).

If so, then it may be signs of detonation.. the ecu will momentarily retard timing to compensate; but i doubt this is the case. Yours sounds like a plain miss.

Also with HT leads, we dont test for continuity with multimeters... we test resistance.

Sounds ignition related... definately change plugs for a start & make sure they're the correct gap. Try that, and run a tank of premium ulp. See if theres any difference.

..unless.. do 3L's have knock sensors? (2nd gens).

If so, then it may be signs of detonation.. the ecu will momentarily retard timing to compensate; but i doubt this is the case. Yours sounds like a plain miss.

Also with HT leads, we dont test for continuity with multimeters... we test resistance.

3L's DO have knock sensors, I use the 95 rated E10. The knock sensors can only tell a difference between the 92 and 95 octane petrol so running premuim makes no more difference to me. I'm pretty convinced its either plugs or leads or both.

Try this

1. Have a good look at the outside of the distributor cap for dirt and crap build up. Wipe off the dirt.

It can cause "arcing" between the base of the leads in the cap.

2. Make sure each lead is securely attached to the plug, making sure that the metal connector in the end of the lead is firmly attached to the end of the spark plug. If need be "gently" crimp the connector with a pair of pliers to make a firm grip. (for TR and TS only)

If the spark has to jump from the lead to the plug instead of a flow of current, it will cause a stutter.

Hope this helps

Will do. Thanks.

I think I made a mistake calling it a stutter. To me a stutter says that it fuel starvation but its more like a single miss.

There's an old clever saying amongst mechanics, it goes like this ...

" 90% of all fuel problems are electrical "

Also the check the distributor cap and rotor button, a known issue in 3.0 litre engines.

Hope this helps