does anyone know where i can get these done in Perth??? and what sort of gain am i looking at?

RPW:cool:

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/

oh **** i totally forgot about them...kewl...
so does anyone know what kinda power gains im looking at?
I understand ill priolly need a new ECU to get maximum gains...I THINK LOL

oh **** i totally forgot about them...kewl...
so does anyone know what kinda power gains im looking at?
I understand ill priolly need a new ECU to get maximum gains...I THINK LOL

Yeah, ECU is a must. With RPW Stage 1 cams, flowed and shaved heads, cam gears, and a tune, I managed 165kW ATW on a dyno dynamics roller dyno. Just ECU and cams, maybe 150kW?

Just so you know, that cam profile is hotter than the Ralliart cam design, but the Ralliarts have a higher compression ratio, so you make around the same or slightly better peak power than the average Ralliart Magna.

Moral of the story - go stage 2 ;) Or better yet, get Tighe (http://www.tighecams.com.au/) to do you a custom grind. Tighe grind RPW's cams.

Moral of the story - go stage 2 ;) Or better yet, get Tighe (http://www.tighecams.com.au/) to do you a custom grind. Tighe grind RPW's cams.

How's your car drive at daily rpms, jerky and rough or just breathless?

How's your car drive at daily rpms, jerky and rough or just breathless?

You mean now, or when I had the Stage 1s?

Stage 1s - drove like a factory car with unremarkable idle.. held power to redline.

now - idle has a lump, doesn't like cruising under 2000rpm in any gear or it gets rough, but definately not breathless.. torque is up across the range.

whats stage 3 like then and what sorta price am i looking and what power gains

does anyone know where i can get these done in Perth??? and what sort of gain am i looking at?
I called today Tighe and they sell Cams stg.1 and 2 for the same price 1250$.

All Tighe's grinds are the same price, no matter what profile.

If you go stage 3 you'll also need stiffer valve springs, and might be pushing the limits of the standard ECU - just something to keep in mind.

No one's ever fit them, but you'll probably end up somewhere in the 180kW ballpark? :think:

dont be weak, go the stage 3 and a few other things here and there and woooohooooo....

only if ur manual though big cams and auto = pig

edit, just checked your profile and ur tippy... chose wisley then something that will work with the std convertor and have decent bottom end grunt... no point having cams that come in at 3500rpm in an auto with a 2200rpm convertor.... i know lol i had a BIG six with a big cam and before the convertor it was slow if not slower than stock :( lol

hi mate.you have an auto so don't get too excited about gains. I have just completed stage one cams,adj cam gears and gReddy emanage and went from 154hpatw to 175hpatw. Very noticable differance of course on the road and i am happy, but will put in a manual if the auto dies. should see closer to 195hp me thinks. cost around $2700 for suppliying parts and then having them fitted and tuned. See my profile for the other mods done prior to these to work out what your figure may be.

so u all think its a waste getting a stage three with the auto??? or reckon save for a manual conversion first?

yeah mate i would get a manual conversion done first

i wouldnt go stage 3 unless you want an absolute monster to drive. if you want it to be able to idle around a carpark without chugging/stalling stick with stage one, and a ecu. that will still give you a good increase in power.

i wouldnt go stage 3 unless you want an absolute monster to drive. if you want it to be able to idle around a carpark without chugging/stalling stick with stage one, and a ecu. that will still give you a good increase in power.

Can't comment about an auto, but my cams are quite a bit hotter than RPW's stage 3 and I don't have these problems..

Im looking for a beast!!! lol N/A all the way ATM:badgrin:

Can't comment about an auto, but my cams are quite a bit hotter than RPW's stage 3 and I don't have these problems..

i aggriz, max needed to do would be raise the idle via the stop screw

would much need to be done to a ralliart if i were to put stage 2 cams in it

would much need to be done to a ralliart if i were to put stage 2 cams in it

Cam gears and some sort of aftermarket computer

Cam gears and some sort of aftermarket computer

probably an adjustable fuel pressure regulator too

probably an adjustable fuel pressure regulator too

you could just pull the vaccum line off the regulator and plug the hole in the manifold, 38-42psi then

you could just pull the vaccum line off the regulator and plug the hole in the manifold, 38-42psi then

Is this the same if i put stade 3 on my sports?

Is this the same if i put stade 3 on my sports?


I'd go more than those mods, intake manifold, ported and polised heads, 10:1 comp pistons, balanced and blueprinted bottom end. Stage 3 cams will be lots of power and you'll hinder your gains significantly without doing everything else. I'd go a full aftermarket computer to, get rid of that AFM for some serious mods to happen

I'd go more than those mods, intake manifold, ported and polised heads, 10:1 comp pistons, balanced and blueprinted bottom end. Stage 3 cams will be lots of power and you'll hinder your gains significantly without doing everything else. I'd go a full aftermarket computer to, get rid of that AFM for some serious mods to happen

so would u say its ok to get stage three cams and then get the other mods done later....i mean will get an aftermarket ECU the same time im getting the cams

so would u say its ok to get stage three cams and then get the other mods done later....i mean will get an aftermarket ECU the same time im getting the cams

No real reason, you'd need better valve springs to thou, but it's a bit of what's the point cause you'll get the cams, springs, gears, computer and tune. Later you'll get internals, heads done, intake manifold maby and again a retune.

Before you do anything you'll need a much better clutch, or with an auto, I dunno how much power they can support, suppose there are supercharged ones going round and autospeed did an artice on a turbo TH tippy, but i've heard nothing extra about it so it's a bit of an unknown, either the auto's will die or they'll handle it.

Well im gonna do some research! and in the mean time the car is gonna get converted to manual....and im guessing getting a good clutch with the conversions

Well im gonna do some research! and in the mean time the car is gonna get converted to manual....and im guessing getting a good clutch with the conversions


you might want to just buy a manual one, much easier and my end up cheaper, never know

yeah maybe!

so would u say its ok to get stage three cams and then get the other mods done later....i mean will get an aftermarket ECU the same time im getting the cams

Along with what Sports said.. to install the new cams, gears and springs, you'll probably have the heads off. This is a good few hours work, so it makes financial sense to do the bottom end at the same time or you're paying twice.

Bottom end??? as in balancing?

Bottom end??? as in balancing?

Crank, rods, pistons

to replace the springs you will need the heads off so save for a while and do the bottom end at the same time much easier in the long run and cheaper too also try to do as much as you can yourself if your up for it as in pulling the engine down and piece is together again that saves a fair bit of money

You dont need to take the heads off to replace the valve springs springs.

i think where we are heading is " whats the cheepest way to get big KW gains with minimum hassle "

to compress the springs without bending the valves you need the heads off