I just want to share my grounding points in case someone after for it.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/8pointsground.jpg

I just want to share my grounding points in case someone after for it.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o248/MagnaTech07/8pointsground.jpg
hey mate ya bay looks nice but what are the grounding things for??

Puts less strain on the cars electrical system by picking up more current through extra earthing points.
I still want to do this to my car cept i cant crimp those f**kers on for crap. wasted a good $20 on crimps i screwd up

so it comes off ya battery?? and were do you buy the leads from??

lol

if theres no differance in voltage between the battery and all thoes points your conecting to
your not gaining anything

use a multi meter where ive indicated in green if there no voltage change no need to run more earths

lol

if theres no differance in voltage between the battery and all thoes points your conecting to
your not gaining anything

use a multi meter where ive indicated in green if there no voltage change no need to run more earths

Unfortunately, I don't have a multi-meter to do that.
I used a low resistance wires for this project which I believe will increase the flow of current in all electrical components of my car.
I don't think there will be a change in voltage as you expected, but to stabilize yes.
I=V/r where I=current, V=Voltage, r=resistance
I just reduce the wire resistance, therefore there will be an increase in current and not voltage.

i still dont know why you bother as the same amount of power is running in to the motor and body, the left and right strut towers are the same. and the motor allready has a good earth, every thing that bolts to the motor will have a good earth through the bolts. if anyhing only run 1 wire from the coil to battery. your waisting time and money with the rest of it.

how can you work out V-i/r with out a multimeter?

I have to laugh when I see things like this and people lacking even the basic DC principals. The power (=VI) is at a peak draw when the motor is cranking. Up to 1500w. The earthing in place is easily capable of dealing with this, so what makes you think they are in need of upgrade to make the car run better when it is in a relativly low power consumption.

When the motor is running, there is bugger all power draw and if your current earths are not faulty, the earthing system is already over-designed as it is.

I have to laugh when I see things like this and people lacking even the basic DC principals. The power (=VI) is at a peak draw when the motor is cranking. Up to 1500w. The earthing in place is easily capable of dealing with this, so what makes you think they are in need of upgrade to make the car run better when it is in a relativly low power consumption.
When the motor is running, there is bugger all power draw and if your current earths are not faulty, the earthing system is already over-designed as it is.

Not everyone may do it for this reason. I found my power windows went up a little fast(i timed it) my lights were brighter and radio interferance from amp was reduced. worth the $20 i spent on cables and crimps.

On top of those benefits Magtone, there was an article posted here many times of a similar kit installed on an otherwise stock ralliart Magna. Something like 4-6kW at the wheels was gained with a grounding kit.

Then again Turbo Charade is always right. lol

were do you get the wire and crimps from?

In the audio world there are many gains too... I run 0 guage on the power side and have upgraded my engine bay grounding about 6 x 8 gauge on top of stock grounds.

No point having big positive wires if you dont match it on the ground side. I don't doubt for a second that Magtones lights are brighter now and windows go up quicker, more grounds = less resistance.

Peace

Tim

I have to laugh when I see things like this and people lacking even the basic DC principals. The power (=VI) is at a peak draw when the motor is cranking. Up to 1500w. The earthing in place is easily capable of dealing with this, so what makes you think they are in need of upgrade to make the car run better when it is in a relativly low power consumption.

When the motor is running, there is bugger all power draw and if your current earths are not faulty, the earthing system is already over-designed as it is.
I agree in full! I've been over my engine bay earthing with an oscilloscope and looked at the voltage drops between components, I cannot see any benefit electrically in upgrading the stock system.

However I could see problems with excessive voltage drop in the headlight wiring that would be improved with some heavier gauge wire and a relay or 2.

Stereo wiring is a different matter, you always need to upgrade the earth wiring to match the power wiring.

Cummins.

I hate to explain myself on this, I feel I'm back in my primary days:nuts: ...anyway I will let you for what you believed in and what you not. My intention of posting the diagram is for those people who are interested of doing it and not for those who are not.
Current is like a flowing water in the pipe from a water tank; small pipe less water flow in, bigger pipe more water to flow in. Same as in battery, less resistance more current to flow.

I agree in full! I've been over my engine bay earthing with an oscilloscope and looked at the voltage drops between components, I cannot see any benefit electrically in upgrading the stock system.

However I could see problems with excessive voltage drop in the headlight wiring that would be improved with some heavier gauge wire and a relay or 2.

Stereo wiring is a different matter, you always need to upgrade the earth wiring to match the power wiring.

Cummins.

Look at the ampere not the voltage.

The voltage drop across a resistance (2 points on wire/car body etc.) is an indication of how much power is dissipated across that resistance P=V^2/R. If there is barely any wasted power (negligible voltage drop) in a connection, that connection is adequate for the required job.

Cummins.

Post 12 of THIS (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36590&page=2&highlight=grounding+kit) thread has the article I was talking about.

What I noticed so far is smooth transition of gears for my automatic, brighter lamp, louder horn, smoother idling. For $23.50 delivered (ebay) and effort, worth it.

I fitted Barry's kit and my stereo, power windows etc have all benefited.
Its not the voltage that you are worried about but the current flow, and no you probably wont notice a HUGE difference, but its is like having a blocked nose and clearing it, the system as a whole 'breathes' better.
Along with the earthing kit I installed Barry's fuel rail kit and gasket kit and my idle is now smoooooth and flat spot gone. But the best is my fuel economy dropped from 11.2ltr/100km to 10.7ltr/100km.

You can all thank me later.

http://web.aanet.com.au/naa/p1.jpg
http://web.aanet.com.au/naa/p2.jpg
http://web.aanet.com.au/naa/p3.jpg

Its quite simple really. The earthing cable is well and truly capable of carrying the load, even with cranking with the lights on! Thats not the argument, its got to do with resistance as others have said. Put it simply, anyone with basic electrical knowledge knows that copper is a better conductor than steel. Actually in order of conductance from the best:
Gold
Silver
Copper
Aluminium
and steel comes in at 5?

Powerlines use aluminium because its cheaper than gold or silver! lol (duh), and the only reason why copper isn't used is because of the way it corrodes. The oxide created when aluminium corodes actually protects the rest of the aluminium. When copper corrodes the oxide is porous, the eventually the whole copper corodes which looks bad and doesn't conduct electricity.

Anyways as steel has a much higher resistance, even though it can take the amount of electricity, because of the resistance the total amount of electricity transferred is reduced. Not very technical but thats how it works. So its not capacity of the grounding wire thats the problem, its the resistance though the system that is.

The reason why car manufacturers don't have grounding wires is mainly for cost. The car body does work, its just not ideal, but it does make the cost of making the car cheaper. Imagine if they ran a wire from every earthing point to connect to the grounding wire. Not only do you have the extra cost of the wire, but the extra labour cost.

Connecting the earth (negative) battery terminal by grounding wires to earthing points of major electrical items will improve the electrical performance of the car. May only be a slight increase in some areas, but since its quite easy to do its worth doing. The grouding of the alternator (around the base bolt) is a major one that people forget. Don't worry about using crimping tools, just run the bare wire around the bolt and do up tight!... lol

What a load of rubbish lol.

The resistance of a conductor is directly proportianal to its cross section area. In a engine blocks case, its about a billion times thicker than any earth strap you run. Same with an car chassis when you look at all the paths the current can take.

Apples and apples mate.

The headlights being brighter isn't uncommon, on cheap cars with no relays as standard.

The transmission thing is odd, but hardly conclusive or a credible result.

Stereos I agree should have dirty great earths and power, because they pull a lot of current and an engine simply doesn't... ever.

If you did notice a little more speed and brightness in things, your previous earths were not done up tight or faulty.

You take your apple and I'll take mine:D Do you have problem with that?

read the article about the ralliart.. all they did was fit the grounding kit and they got around 5kw atw from it.... i dont understand any of the other Cr@p you guys are talking but i do understand that...

im gonna 32-point ground my 2.6TR and it will all of a sudden get 560hp atw, a twin plate clutch, a supra gearbox and headlights so bright that if there's ever a black out in australia i can light up the entire eastern coast. oh and my manually wound windows will wind themselves whenever i think about putting my window down.

im gonna 32-point ground my 2.6TR and it will all of a sudden get 560hp atw, a twin plate clutch, a supra gearbox and headlights so bright that if there's ever a black out in australia i can light up the entire eastern coast. oh and my manually wound windows will wind themselves whenever i think about putting my window down.

what is the point of your post exactly?

what is the point of your post exactly?

Don't mind that Gremlin, probably overboost, air gets in somewhere else.lol

What a load of rubbish lol.

The resistance of a conductor is directly proportianal to its cross section area. In a engine blocks case, its about a billion times thicker than any earth strap you run. Same with an car chassis when you look at all the paths the current can take.

Apples and apples mate.

The headlights being brighter isn't uncommon, on cheap cars with no relays as standard.

The transmission thing is odd, but hardly conclusive or a credible result.

Stereos I agree should have dirty great earths and power, because they pull a lot of current and an engine simply doesn't... ever.

If you did notice a little more speed and brightness in things, your previous earths were not done up tight or faulty.

True... to a certain extent. And what burfadel said is correct as far as different conductors and how well they conduct electricity. I should know, electronics is my job ;)

But when you look at a magna battery, you have (well mine anyway) more cable going FROM the battery's +ve terminal than you do coming TO the -ve terminal. So its like trying to pull a fixed amount of electrons through a big pipe and then shove the same amount back through a little straw.
So technically all you really need to do is run a short fat cable from your negative terminal to your chassis. But hey, make it as free flowing as possible and run the cables to the main points in your car, there is no harm in going overboard.
But no matter what the theory is, people time and time again (especially that Ralliart) have experienced improvements with earthing kits... be it idle smoothness, economy, audio etcetc... it works!

True... to a certain extent. And what burfadel said is correct as far as different conductors and how well they conduct electricity. I should know, electronics is my job ;)

But when you look at a magna battery, you have (well mine anyway) more cable going FROM the battery's +ve terminal than you do coming TO the -ve terminal. So its like trying to pull a fixed amount of electrons through a big pipe and then shove the same amount back through a little straw.
So technically all you really need to do is run a short fat cable from your negative terminal to your chassis. But hey, make it as free flowing as possible and run the cables to the main points in your car, there is no harm in going overboard.
But no matter what the theory is, people time and time again (especially that Ralliart) have experienced improvements with earthing kits... be it idle smoothness, economy, audio etcetc... it works!

Exactly what i was thinking.
Might invest in one of those Ebay kits.

I have about 4 meters of 4ga here but i dont know how to crimp crimps onto such thick wire.
Besides for $23? delivered that sounds like a sh*t hot deal

Well I was just hunting around the Australian Mitsubishi site looking at the new Outlander, and bugger me under the accessories tab there is a grounding kit for the Outlander. If MMAL have a kit as an accessory for the Outlander maybe there is something in these engine grounding kits.

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/mitssite/jsp/pages/vehicles/accessories/accessories.jsp?groupId=22

Or they could just be cashing in on people's gullibility.

Looks like a nice car! And has a strut brace as an option! :D

Or they could just be cashing in on people's gullibility.

possibly true

but if there like $30 or whatever its worth taking in the chance that it might make the smallest improvement.

hell ppl are happy to pay $700 for extractors which might produce a few kws.. whats $30 really

possibly true

but if there like $30 or whatever its worth taking in the chance that it might make the smallest improvement.

hell ppl are happy to pay $700 for extractors which might produce a few kws.. whats $30 really

Knowing Mitsi I would say a safer guess would be $300 for some cheap cable and connectors lol

Knowing Mitsi I would say a safer guess would be $300 for some cheap cable and connectors lol

oh i wasnt suggesting a mitsu one.... an ebay job will do me!!! :D

possibly true

but if there like $30 or whatever its worth taking in the chance that it might make the smallest improvement.

hell ppl are happy to pay $700 for extractors which might produce a few kws.. whats $30 really

Oh yeah I don't disagree with that. I was just playing devil's advocate :cool:

Hey fellas,

How about upgrading the positive wires aswell?,from my auto elec experience,there is always some voltage drop between the alternator and the battery,so there are gains to be made there,some 6mm or even 8 B&S does the job nicely and this CAN be measured with a multimeter!

Headlight relays and appropriate wire are always a benefit as i found a huge increase when i fitted mine,the factory wire , plugs and headlight switch contacts just arent capable of carrying the extra amperage required by higher output globes (not those chinese blue pieces of ****,I mean quality globes like Philips rallye etc)

Steve

Or they could just be cashing in on people's gullibility.

spot on

use a multimeter and do the maths yourself

Will the multimeter add power to my engine?

If you shoved it through the turbo it might...

im gonna 32-point ground my 2.6TR and it will all of a sudden get 560hp atw, a twin plate clutch, a supra gearbox and headlights so bright that if there's ever a black out in australia i can light up the entire eastern coast. oh and my manually wound windows will wind themselves whenever i think about putting my window down.

:nuts: anything constructive to say???

The main problem here is people think this mod is put it to GAIN POWER. This is NOT the purpose and was never stated as such!!!!! So keep the stupid unhelpful comments out.
This mod (and Barry's other kits) have resulted in smoother idle, better audio quality, brighter lights and improved fuel economy. The MAY be a slightly more responsive throttle and a very small increase in power, but nothing to write home about.
The initial poster was trying to help people by posting photos of mod which he and others have found to be useful and cheap. So for everyone who is just posting useless crap about huge power increases etcetc stop wasting space and time (and maybe try it for yourself????). I have not heard of anyone who has these 3 kits say they were useless.

The main problem here is people think this mod is put it to GAIN POWER. This is NOT the purpose and was never stated as such!!!!!

Actually thats exactly what was stated, there's posts in here claiming a 10-15kw gain (thats a considerable amount considering NOTHING has been changed), even a smoother operating transmission. (i wonder if he serviced it in between fitting the grounding kit)

I did decide to test this, and took a multimeter and just as i suspected no matter where on the chassis/body/engine i checked, the reading was EXACTLY the same back to 3 decimal places.

Actually thats exactly what was stated, there's posts in here claiming a 10-15kw gain (thats a considerable amount considering NOTHING has been changed), even a smoother operating transmission. (i wonder if he serviced it in between fitting the grounding kit)

I did decide to test this, and took a multimeter and just as i suspected no matter where on the chassis/body/engine i checked, the reading was EXACTLY the same back to 3 decimal places.

Well i just bought a grounding kit off ebay so ner:P
no more torque steer now:)

im gonna 32-point ground my 2.6TR and it will all of a sudden get 560hp atw, a twin plate clutch, a supra gearbox and headlights so bright that if there's ever a black out in australia i can light up the entire eastern coast. oh and my manually wound windows will wind themselves whenever i think about putting my window down.

560 atw?? I got 600. You got ripped mate. Maybe it's cause my cables are red and your's are blue. everyone knows red makes anything instantly better.

I think Matt and Nick have outlined how credible the majority of posters are, and I would say that is very constructive.

Actually thats exactly what was stated, there's posts in here claiming a 10-15kw gain (thats a considerable amount considering NOTHING has been changed), even a smoother operating transmission. (i wonder if he serviced it in between fitting the grounding kit)

I did decide to test this, and took a multimeter and just as i suspected no matter where on the chassis/body/engine i checked, the reading was EXACTLY the same back to 3 decimal places.

Someone posted that story of the Ralliart as a reference as proof that it actually did something (and BTW that has dyno proof, though yeah it does sound over the top). I know of no on this forum who has fitted the kit and claimed an increase of power like that.

Yes you will see exactly the same voltage. And this is where people who have no or limited knowledge of electronics come unstuck. Ever heard of the term 'noise'? You can have 12V and 12V. One can be 'clean' and the other 'noisy'. The earthing kit uses what's called 'star grounding' where it takes all GND points and brings them back to one central point and then to the battery. This helps remove GND loops which can quite often induce noise. So using such a course instrument like a multimeter is a waste of time. Try an oscilloscope in mV range.

This same principle is applied on PCB layout. Star grounds are ideal. If they are physically impossible we use the rule "if there is space space fill it with copper" and just put huge GND planes everywhere. You might only have a 2mm track coming from the power supply, but if you just use a 2mm GND track you will have noise everywhere and the circuit will not perform optimally.

Pete
Electronics Nerd

Its quite simple really. The earthing cable is well and truly capable of carrying the load, even with cranking with the lights on! Thats not the argument, its got to do with resistance as others have said. Put it simply, anyone with basic electrical knowledge knows that copper is a better conductor than steel. Actually in order of conductance from the best:
Gold
Silver
Copper
Aluminium

I hate to rain on your parade but it goes:

1. Silver
2. Copper
3. Gold
4. Aluminum
5. Beryllium
6. calcium
7. magnesium
Etc...

whats annoying is the people against this mod are so because they THINK they understand everything about electronics not because they have tried the kit and failed.. the ONLY proof either way i have seen is that article using the magna ralliart and it made a gain.... :nuts:

when you guys are running around with your multimeters do you have the cars electronic system under a decent load or non whatsoever?

Has anyone had experience with one of the off the shelf kits, like the Pivot Raizin kit or something like that? One with the condenser box or whateva it is.

And also just for reference who is using ebay/barry's/home made kits? And whats the differences?

Im interested in doing this, i know it works and i know the principles of it are true, just wondering what kit has what etc

Has anyone had experience with one of the off the shelf kits, like the Pivot Raizin kit or something like that? One with the condenser box or whateva it is.

And also just for reference who is using ebay/barry's/home made kits? And whats the differences?

Im interested in doing this, i know it works and i know the principles of it are true, just wondering what kit has what etc

Hi mate,
I have all 3 of Barry's kits, fuel rail, earthing and gasket.

Gasket kit - 3 thermal gaskets. Plenum, Throttle Body, EGR.
Fuel Rail - 4 aluminium spacers.
Earthing Kit - A load of precut and crimped cables and nuts and bolts.

As I said, I have seen slightly brighter lights, but the main difference has been a MUCH smoother idle. Fuel economy is still under test, but so far it has dropped from 11.2ltr/100km to 10.7ltr/100km, but want to test this over a few weeks, as my car has been in the mechanics getting the gearbox done so haven't had that long to test it.
Cheers
Pete

whats annoying is the people against this mod are so because they THINK they understand everything about electronics not because they have tried the kit and failed.. the ONLY proof either way i have seen is that article using the magna ralliart and it made a gain.... :nuts:

when you guys are running around with your multimeters do you have the cars electronic system under a decent load or non whatsoever?

And yes the only people to complain and ridicule the kit don't have one and aren't prepared to try.
I have heard NO negative comments from people who have fitted them.

Im def getting barrys gasket and fuel rail kit, just wondering what would be better for the grounding kit. I suppose barry's would be a lot easier to install seeing as its all cut and crimped. What gauge wire is barry's compared to the others?

Im just waiting to save a lil more money, my wallet has taken a huge hit this week.

I haven't tried this, however I have let my car run for a few hundred KM with no battery at all, and I couldn't fell any difference what so ever.

That disproves it for me.

I haven't tried this, however I have let my car run for a few hundred KM with no battery at all, and I couldn't fell any difference what so ever.

That disproves it for me.

:nuts: Naturally. And what your ignited each chamber with a match while sitting on your engine and held a battery on the ECU?

Poita, nice work :bowrofl:


The battery isn't even being used when the motor is running champ....

Yes is be possible, but the alternator will not seeing a correct load and can produce an excessive voltage and damage the electonics like ECU etc.
For example a bus 24V system, remove the battery and the voltage can jump to 120V :shock:
So yes possible but a very dumb idea...

But when you look at a magna battery, you have (well mine anyway) more cable going FROM the battery's +ve terminal than you do coming TO the -ve terminal. So its like trying to pull a fixed amount of electrons through a big pipe and then shove the same amount back through a little straw.

Except of course that electrons, having a -ve charge, flow from -ve to +ve :P

Except of course that electrons, having a -ve charge, flow from -ve to +ve :P

lol Technically yes, but in layman terms it makes more sense the other way :P

Powerlines use aluminium because its cheaper than gold or silver! lol (duh), and the only reason why copper isn't used is because of the way it corrodes.

Aluminium is also a butt load lighter. you'd need to find some bigger trees for copper wires :D


And this is where people who have no or limited knowledge of electronics come unstuck. Ever heard of the term 'noise'? You can have 12V and 12V. One can be 'clean' and the other 'noisy'. The earthing kit uses what's called 'star grounding' where it takes all GND points and brings them back to one central point and then to the battery. This helps remove GND loops which can quite often induce noise.

so would doing the multi point grounding thing eliminate the high pitched whistle that comes through my stereo?

Yes is be possible, but the alternator will not seeing a correct load and can produce an excessive voltage and damage the electonics like ECU etc.
For example a bus 24V system, remove the battery and the voltage can jump to 120V :shock:
So yes possible but a very dumb idea...

So how does adding a few wires from the metal frame of the car to the battery make any difference?

']Well i just bought a grounding kit off ebay so ner:P
no more torque steer now:)

No torque steer?! Dude you're on drugs. :nuts:

Ok since I started this thread, allow me to finish this also. This mod might not be as popular as body kit, new wheels, scuff plates, color coded painting, grill mods etc,. which cost you more than $20, question, did you gain anything? If you think there is no other benefit for this mod...so be it. At least it makes my engine bay looks cool...like your body kit, wheels, scuff plates etc., etc.,. I got nothing to loose there.

so would doing the multi point grounding thing eliminate the high pitched whistle that comes through my stereo?
No if anything it will cause more problems. The whistle is high frequency neutral loops from missmatched earths already.

Capacitors fix that problem and are available from most stereo shops. They are called earth loop isolators or the likes.

so would doing the multi point grounding thing eliminate the high pitched whistle that comes through my stereo?

I'm not going to say yes or no as i really don't know... but if it is from earth loops it could well help reduce the whistle.
I would have thought it was more from power and signal wires running next to each other, inducing noise coupling between them... I've had that problem before.

No if anything it will cause more problems. The whistle is high frequency neutral loops from missmatched earths already.

Capacitors fix that problem and are available from most stereo shops. They are called earth loop isolators or the likes.
So misguided... Capacitors are a bandaid fix to a bigger problem. The whistle is from induced interference usually as Poita suggested. NO CAR AUDIO NEEDS CAPACITORS!

Yes proper grounds such as this could help with ground loop problems. Although would usually be used when someone upgrades their power wires. Simply upgrading the main earth to 4 guage or larger is also very effective.
Here's my power.
5 x 8 guage on top of stock grounds
0 Gauge for the audio power
Optima Yellowtop
100 amp fuse
Waterproof ANL Fuse holder
Conduit
Heatshrink
hex key for 30 second disable power rule (CAASQ)
Zip ties holding everything down

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3534/enginebay1sx7.jpg
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4933/enginebay2hs7.jpg

So how does adding a few wires from the metal frame of the car to the battery make any difference?

Think of the alternator, battery and engine all in parallel. The battery acts like a voltage stabilizer as the alternator 'sees' the correct load on its output. Remove the expected load and the voltage spikes.

Its quite simple really. The earthing cable is well and truly capable of carrying the load, even with cranking with the lights on! Thats not the argument, its got to do with resistance as others have said. Put it simply, anyone with basic electrical knowledge knows that copper is a better conductor than steel. Actually in order of conductance from the best:
Gold
Silver
Copper
Aluminium
and steel comes in at 5?



Wrong ! Silver is the best conductor. Gold is used bacause it doesnt corrode. Sorry

NO CAR AUDIO NEEDS CAPACITORS!

I wasn't talking caps like the big car audio ones to compensate for poor power transmission, I was talking about caps to filter off noise from the earths.

If no audio system needs caps, you do you connect high and low pass filters to your splits hey?

I am talking about both large caps... 1 / 2 farads... and the little noise suppressors, They can solve problems but proper wiring will eliminate the need for them.


This technology is already built into amp/headunit power supplies.

Obviously caps are still used for crossovers.

Think of the alternator, battery and engine all in parallel. The battery acts like a voltage stabilizer as the alternator 'sees' the correct load on its output. Remove the expected load and the voltage spikes.


I am not talking about load, I am saying that is all the power comes from the alt and not the battery then why don't you connect the wires to the earth on the alt, not the negative terminal on the battery.

I've got some spare cable lying around i could use to do this, do you think this stuff is heavy duty enough?

I'd say it's way to heavy duty.

I've got some spare cable lying around i could use to do this, do you think this stuff is heavy duty enough?
haha looks like power lines to me... should do the trick...

I thought this might help to clarify...from a well-respected auto electronic installation company...

"With engineering technology in modern cars getting more and more advanced one aspect that tends to get overlooked by many manufacturers is an adequate grounding system dedicated specifically to assist the engine electrical and ignition systems

Upgrading existing earths in addition to adding numerous new key earth cables may not seem like much but when you do it the difference is certainly noticeable

Not only will you see improvements in power and torque figures, your motor will run smoother, it will rev cleaner, your lights will be brighter, your stereo will sound stronger and earth kits actually assist in fighting engine water corrosion caused through electrolysis.

Skeptics should know these earth kits have been tested on numerous cars including ones with great existing earth systems (e.g. Lexus). Some cars gained up to 7 foot lbs. and 5 horsepower extra! Not bad when you consider that you're only adding a few extra earth cables"

Well I was just hunting around the Australian Mitsubishi site looking at the new Outlander, and bugger me under the accessories tab there is a grounding kit for the Outlander. If MMAL have a kit as an accessory for the Outlander maybe there is something in these engine grounding kits.

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/mitssite/jsp/pages/vehicles/accessories/accessories.jsp?groupId=22

Hi Craig
I called in to my local Mitsu parts and they said it was a bunch of fairly ordinary cables and perhaps a different battery terminal - $190

Cheers, Barry

Actually thats exactly what was stated, there's posts in here claiming a 10-15kw gain (thats a considerable amount considering NOTHING has been changed), even a smoother operating transmission. (i wonder if he serviced it in between fitting the grounding kit)

I did decide to test this, and took a multimeter and just as i suspected no matter where on the chassis/body/engine i checked, the reading was EXACTLY the same back to 3 decimal places.

Hi Matt
I have never actually claimed a power increase, because it is expensive to dyno several times during development, but Performance Buildups magazine did
Stock...132.9Kw
+ Earth cables...135.8Kw up to 136.6Kw
+ voltage stabiliser...137.9Kw with torque gain
+ further earthing...139.6Kw
+ removing restrictive intake...140.7Kw
+ 1.4L/100K better fuel consumption

It's important to note that the final Kw figure is a result of accumulated gains with each step taken
I do claim increased torque - it's obvious when you drive the car it tends to continue to climb hills even when you lift your foot off the accelerator
The V6 Magna suffers from loss of synchronisation between the two banks of cylinders, so I included a dedicated circuit for that in my kit
This brings the Torque band stronger earlier in the rev range - so that the engine is performing much better on hills at 110Km speed limit than before

Also I make the kit with higher capacity terminals that are also soldered and heat shrunk- this is the best way to guarantee good gains compared to commercial kits that will suffer degradation in the hostile engine-bay of heat, cold, grease, oil, painted metal surfaces, corrosion between different metals, battery acid fumes

Some have posted that the engine block is sufficient earth/ground in itself

This may have been OK in the 70's and 80's with a cast-iron block, but with mostly alloy engines there is considerable corrosion between major engine components and this is made worse by water

As another member pointed out, when you remove the two rear bolts holding the inlet manifold, there is often cosiderable deposits on the actual bolts, such that they should be replaced and the threaded hole treated with anti-corrosion spray

This corrosion is an example of bad earthing, and is a sign of what may be on the inside
of the engine where you can't see

This is why when buying a used car that it is wise to service the coolant to avoid potential problems and I included a circuit to reduce coolant electrolysis as well

Some have done a resistance check around the engine and, found no appreciable result

If there were to be a reading, you would already be having reduced performance

The electrical circuits of a modern car contain many different types of current - high current DC for starting, varying rectified current for alternator, pulsed high voltage for spark plugs, varying rate and frequency pulsed current for injectors, short and long term current for relays and other inductive loads, stable and noise free supply for the ECU etc

There is also initial current (surge) and continuous flow

It is this high-demand surge when a device is switched on that is important - this is why ordinary electrical systems such as in the Magna can benefit from an earthing kit eg smoother auto changes when the solenoids and relays operate in the transmission

Cheers, Barry

hmm..who remembers what the post was originally made for?
Ooh, me me!!! He wanted to share his mod with everyone, and show how he did it so others could do alike.
He didnt ask for criticism or people telling him his mod didnt work.
Sheesh people!

yeah there has been way to much criticism from ppl who have just used a multimeter which they think will prove them right, but i dont think they have bought the kit and stated that it didnt work, while others who have actually used the kit and said it does work, so there seams to be a lot of points in favour of the grounding kit. and not much against it from ppl who think they know about electricity just because they can use a multimeter. i think the main fear is that because its cheap it doesnt work. after reading this i am now considering buying this kit.
even mitsubishi offered the kit as an option in the outlander.
and even if it only does make my headlights brighter, for $30 why not

Hmmm..contentious issue. :D

This is what I did. Only running 5-600 Watts Max. out of the Stereo, but never had any lights dimming, engine noise, funny idles or any other dramas. Economy is around 10L/100km.

The theory may or may not be correct, but it worked for me. :)



There are two thin earth cables going to the battery ( on my TH anyway)
One goes to the chassis below the battery, the other to a gearbox bolt.

Replaced these with 4Guage copper wire and proper soldered terminals.


For Stereo install

Run 4G or 8G ( I used 8G) wire from the battery to a common earth point at the rear of the car, like an existing bolt. Earth your amps to this point as well. Apparently, you should even run your H/U earth to this spot as well if there is still noise.

Now your audio amplifier earths are at the same potential as the battery, without relying solely on the chassis to return the current.

hmm..who remembers what the post was originally made for?
Ooh, me me!!! He wanted to share his mod with everyone, and show how he did it so others could do alike.
He didnt ask for criticism or people telling him his mod didnt work.
Sheesh people!

The thing is...if you don't want people talking about what you did/didn't/should've/shoudn't have done...then you don't post in the first place.

Next time should we all just go "ooh ahh" and then close the thread? Or perhaps let's just abandon the forum altogether and just have a gallery since you don't want anyone talking about anything anyone's done.

I'm sorry for this thread, I don't intend to make other people uncomfortable with this mod.
I just thought that this thread will help other people who are wanting to do the same upgrade.
I'm just posting to help and not mislead people. If you find my thread or post is not helping you or you don't believe with that I've said or done, then it's fine with me to accept corrections, criticism or better yet ignore it.
If I said some benefits for my mods, that is only based on my own assessment and therefore not conclusive. I hope this is clear to everyone.

For Stereo install

Run 4G or 8G ( I used 8G) wire from the battery to a common earth point at the rear of the car, like an existing bolt. Earth your amps to this point as well. Apparently, you should even run your H/U earth to this spot as well if there is still noise.

Now your audio amplifier earths are at the same potential as the battery, without relying solely on the chassis to return the current.
This is unnecessary. The run is so long and thin that the chassis earth will be much better. THe other wire is simply taking up space and in reality wouldnt have any current flowing through it as the electricity will take the path of least resistance.

In addition grounding your headunit to the same point as the amps will also result in an unnecessarily long ground run which is never a good thing.

Keep your ground short and fat, The headunit should be grounded to the chassis where the headunit mounts if there are any problems with the stock ground (on the Magna wiring I've found the ground to be a bit poor. the stock headunit power line is fine.


Peace

Tim

Yeah, it was a bit of overkill. :D

Apparently, the Magnas have a one piece chassis, so the earth is quite good. Unlike Commodores which are apparently 2 or 3 piece, and are notorious for crap earths.

I had the interior and carpet out, so did it anyway, to alleviate any possible dramas later on.

You're right about the H/U earth, should have deleted that bit. :P

Like I said, the wire to the rear worked for me. Anyone with Amps in the boot and noise issues could try running this wire outside the car to test if it makes any difference for them.

I'm sorry for this thread, I don't intend to make other people uncomfortable with this mod.
I just thought that this thread will help other people who are wanting to do the same upgrade.
I'm just posting to help and not mislead people. If you find my thread or post is not helping you or you don't believe with that I've said or done, then it's fine with me to accept corrections, criticism or better yet ignore it.
If I said some benefits for my mods, that is only based on my own assessment and therefore not conclusive. I hope this is clear to everyone.

No need to apologise, it was a lesson for those believers and non. Also a good chat about it whether it was positive and negative. Without posters like you then how is anyone going to learn anything new? Just be concious that there will always be some negative feedback and some positive. Keep up the good work, dont let some negatives make you stop from posting another such mod threads. I personally had a good read about everything and see both sides of the story.:cool:

The thing is...if you don't want people talking about what you did/didn't/should've/shoudn't have done...then you don't post in the first place.

Next time should we all just go "ooh ahh" and then close the thread? Or perhaps let's just abandon the forum altogether and just have a gallery since you don't want anyone talking about anything anyone's done.

..no, i just don't like the fact that everyone went "oh your mod is crap" the minute he posted. Seems a tad unfair is all. I never said i dont want anyone talking about anything anyone's done :)

Just thought I would add that Mitsubishi have a engine grounding kit as an accessory for the Evo 9 Lancer. Seems that Mitsubishi may know of some benefits of these kits???

Seems that Mitsubishi may know of some benefits of these kits???

Or it just means Mitsubishi see it as a revenue opportunity, and don't care about the benefits that some people claim....

Cheers,
Martin.