ShiVrx
02-03-2007, 05:47 PM
Hey guys
WARNING: may be long and boring for some people, but i am prooud of what i did, so if you want to read then thanks :D if not, photos will be attached :D.
Well i have been n the process of making a custom boot install for my TJ for the last week. And i can tell you i am soo happy that i went to the trouble of doing it properly and doing it myself too, what an experience!!
So i am going to do a full write up including all the stuff i used and what problems and other issues i had. First let me introduce the parts used
18 mm MDF...alot of it - $5 from work (bunnings)
white styrofoamy insulation...for inside the box -left over from old install)
vinyl.. to cover the box ($23 for 1.5 * 1.5)
PVA glue
Liquid nails
3mm MDF board (for dummy panel and false floor)
all up this stuff cost me about $70
tools: Me (i am a TAUL BRO!)
circular saw, jigsaw, planer, sander,
brad nail finishing gun + nails
Staple gun + staples
random cutting & measuring tools.
Sound gear:
1 x sony 500 watt 4 ch amp ($187)
2 800 watt kenwood tornado subs($89 ea)
sub wiring kit ($20)
Okay so i have a kenwood hu that came with the car, and running stock fronts and rears.
Aim: to build a sub enclosure that allowed me to have 2 subs, keep over 50% of my boot space and allow access to the spare and ski hole.
So basically i went for the 2 subs on either side of the ski hole and out at an angle so that i could still get access to the spare.
i took all the trimmings off to see what i would be doing and i measured up all my dimensions (anyone who wants a box like mine, PM me and i will send you my schematics for the boxes).
(1) Then a matter of accounting for the MDF angles and what not, and then to cutting and planing!!
Once all the pieces were aligned and perfect, cut out the holes needed for the subs and wiring.
(2)Then out with the PVA glue and nail gun. I cannot recommend enough a brad nailer to do this with, took me a whole 30 seconds to PVA panels and then nail them down, brilliant using 32 mm c1 brads.
on the inside of the box, liquid nails into the joint gaps (liquid nails is great cause it has characteristics that make it good at sound insulation and limiting air escaping)
(3)Now all the panels are in, doing the insulation, this is where the staple gun is gold! and also measuring the speaker wire and what not.
Test fitting to make sure the box fits into the space (perfect, 2 mm clearance of wheel wells on either side :D).
(4)Then i did a test run of subs and amp (all sweet bar the lil problem in my other thread)
Drove around with it naked cause i had work and uni, but eventually i took it back out, out with the vinyl, now the secret here is to hide all your joins and trim ending where they wont be seen!
(5) I did it so that i had the sub face as a whole piece then everything wrapped around and up and down, can still see where i stapled all of it down in some places, but thats if you know what you are looking for.
(6)Now the amp sits in between the subs and it looks ugly with the wiring, so i made a board up of 3 mm MDF and scored it so as to not BREAK it but make it bend at an angle, covered it with vinyl, and voila a nice cover up from the front and also a nice blend in for the ski hole(7)!!
(8) All done and i am very happy with the result, minor additions will be red neons above, and a silver VR-X badge along the bottom of that false board.
photos are attached. and i would appreciate some comments about it all :D.
BTW for a $350 dollar install i think i did pretty well!! i got about 1.28 CuFt in each enclosure, and it gives me good low end, SQ isnt anything to boast about but i was expecting that, i disconnected the rears stock 6X9's cause they cant handle the power form the HU even. but with some rear balance, i get crisp front sound and sick bass FTW!!
Cheers Shibbs
WARNING: may be long and boring for some people, but i am prooud of what i did, so if you want to read then thanks :D if not, photos will be attached :D.
Well i have been n the process of making a custom boot install for my TJ for the last week. And i can tell you i am soo happy that i went to the trouble of doing it properly and doing it myself too, what an experience!!
So i am going to do a full write up including all the stuff i used and what problems and other issues i had. First let me introduce the parts used
18 mm MDF...alot of it - $5 from work (bunnings)
white styrofoamy insulation...for inside the box -left over from old install)
vinyl.. to cover the box ($23 for 1.5 * 1.5)
PVA glue
Liquid nails
3mm MDF board (for dummy panel and false floor)
all up this stuff cost me about $70
tools: Me (i am a TAUL BRO!)
circular saw, jigsaw, planer, sander,
brad nail finishing gun + nails
Staple gun + staples
random cutting & measuring tools.
Sound gear:
1 x sony 500 watt 4 ch amp ($187)
2 800 watt kenwood tornado subs($89 ea)
sub wiring kit ($20)
Okay so i have a kenwood hu that came with the car, and running stock fronts and rears.
Aim: to build a sub enclosure that allowed me to have 2 subs, keep over 50% of my boot space and allow access to the spare and ski hole.
So basically i went for the 2 subs on either side of the ski hole and out at an angle so that i could still get access to the spare.
i took all the trimmings off to see what i would be doing and i measured up all my dimensions (anyone who wants a box like mine, PM me and i will send you my schematics for the boxes).
(1) Then a matter of accounting for the MDF angles and what not, and then to cutting and planing!!
Once all the pieces were aligned and perfect, cut out the holes needed for the subs and wiring.
(2)Then out with the PVA glue and nail gun. I cannot recommend enough a brad nailer to do this with, took me a whole 30 seconds to PVA panels and then nail them down, brilliant using 32 mm c1 brads.
on the inside of the box, liquid nails into the joint gaps (liquid nails is great cause it has characteristics that make it good at sound insulation and limiting air escaping)
(3)Now all the panels are in, doing the insulation, this is where the staple gun is gold! and also measuring the speaker wire and what not.
Test fitting to make sure the box fits into the space (perfect, 2 mm clearance of wheel wells on either side :D).
(4)Then i did a test run of subs and amp (all sweet bar the lil problem in my other thread)
Drove around with it naked cause i had work and uni, but eventually i took it back out, out with the vinyl, now the secret here is to hide all your joins and trim ending where they wont be seen!
(5) I did it so that i had the sub face as a whole piece then everything wrapped around and up and down, can still see where i stapled all of it down in some places, but thats if you know what you are looking for.
(6)Now the amp sits in between the subs and it looks ugly with the wiring, so i made a board up of 3 mm MDF and scored it so as to not BREAK it but make it bend at an angle, covered it with vinyl, and voila a nice cover up from the front and also a nice blend in for the ski hole(7)!!
(8) All done and i am very happy with the result, minor additions will be red neons above, and a silver VR-X badge along the bottom of that false board.
photos are attached. and i would appreciate some comments about it all :D.
BTW for a $350 dollar install i think i did pretty well!! i got about 1.28 CuFt in each enclosure, and it gives me good low end, SQ isnt anything to boast about but i was expecting that, i disconnected the rears stock 6X9's cause they cant handle the power form the HU even. but with some rear balance, i get crisp front sound and sick bass FTW!!
Cheers Shibbs