Hi, first off, I am new in these forums and I am glad to see the Magna so well supported. As you can probably guess, there is a reason I am here. That reason,..."I need some help!". I have a TS Magna SE Wagon, which I really like. Problem is headlights. Worked fine until a couple of days ago, then suddenly, no headlights. Wife drives car home holding multi switch back, had headlights, tail and dash. After switching off, no passing lights active, no head or park or tail or dash lights. Check fuses and current to lights, fuses OK, current test resulted in buzzing from headlamp relay. Hmm, me figures could be the problem.
Next morning, FRI 2nd, try lights, now I have park, tail and instrument lights on headlamp only position, turn to park, nothing. Back to headlamp, no headlights but all else work. Turn ignition on, now nothing works.
Fri morning go to mates wrecking yard, try another h/lamp relay, no joy! go to mitsi and try new relay, no joy. Guy there says disconnect trailer wires then try, did, no better. He also noted an after market alarm which I did not know about. Strongly sugested removing it as it may be hard wired to any power wire. I removed this, now I have no park lights, but I do have headlights with hi/lo and all other required lights, UNTIL, I turn on the ignition, when they all go off. Everything else in the car works fine, fans, indicators, reverse, brake lights, virtually everything except the lights, when the ignition is on. I considered the multi switch may be at fault, but Mitsi man tells me it will cost close to a $1000 bucks, can this be right??? Will check S/h but they may have same fault. If anyone has experienced or knows anything about this, please let me know.
Cheers

Correct operation of the combination lamp switch is tested by performing continuity tests on it's harness plug terminals. The Mitsubishi workshop manual contains a mapout of which pins should have continuity for each switch position.

Given the intermittent/random nature of your problem, it does, indeed, sound a lot like the combination switch is going to lunch. They are usually non-serviceable, but a cleanout and some other repairs is/are sometimes possible...

Cheers,
Mattt.

Problem solved. I hope this is of some help to anyope who may have similar problems. Seems the after market alarm that was fitted had an issue that caused severe overheating of the light wire connection junction under the dash. This was not visible as it had occurrred inside the actual connector block. Additionally, there was a failure in the light switch itself, thus causing two seperate but related faults. Gotta love electrical faults :nuts: Anyway, after replacing fuses, relays and much testing, I managed to get the lights to work in reverse. They would turn on with the ignition off, then when car was started, they went out. Not the best way for it to work. Well, being limited to day time driving, we did notice that the switch was rattling a bit and decided, before taking to an auto elec and parting with wads of money, I would get a S/h combination switch from U Pull It. ($27.50) This done, I set about installing it in the car. This was when I found the wire connector that had melted together. After much twisting and pulling, I got the junction apart and found that it had been so hot that it distorted and shorted out a bit. Could I be so lucky as this was the only fault?? I cleaned up and realigned the contacts, plugged in the new S/h switch and turned them on. :thumbsup: It worked. I then proceeded to put it back together, only to be stumped with a small difference in the number of connectore blocks from my old unit compared to the replacement unit. One was missing:confused: I had not allowed for the cruise control. A short bout of foul language, then I remembered somewhere in the Manual I D/l the other day, mention of how simple it is to take the pins out of the junction boxes. This in mind, I re read the manual, found the section and proceeded to relaese a pin and plug it into the replacement box. Also, I had to remove the horn pick up from the replacement unit as it is not required in the cruise version. All this done, i conducted one final test. All "A" OK. To be on the safe side, I went to the auto elec and had it looked at, got the green light from him, $10-00 for his trouble and I am happy once more. It was this cheap as I had removed all the covers and under dash cover before he came out, so all he had to do was check the resistance and joins.
The moral of this, if you have an alarm system fitted, make sure it is done by a professional.

Thanks also Matt, it was the combi switch only further down the line