does anyone know if the distance between the air intake opening and the throttle body matters?

The stock intake is at the front just under the bonnet and the rpw kit goes down towards the bottom of the engine therefore the distance would be diffirent.

-Daniel

well the stock intake is restricted by the bonnet seal while the aftermarket cai is not:doubt:

This has been covered a few times.....

Some say it has no effect...while others have linked it to degraded power shown on a dyno.

Personally, I'd never put it 4ft away from the intake manifold. You want to know what air is going into your engine at the point its going in, not 4ft away.

Nice article from autospeed: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1379/article.html

Nice article from autospeed: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1379/article.html




interesting:think:

IMO don't fiddle with the piping from air flow meter to TB - that is tested and tuned, hopefully to best possible result by Mitsu. If u wish to replace it, use similar diameters and total volumes.
How ever, the intake coming from outside to the airbox is different story. By all means replace the snorkle with 70-90mm pipe with minimum curves and joints and u will have slightly better breathing.

on my last magna i removed the panel around the bonnet latch to allow more air up to the stock snorkel.

You'd never know the real effects unless you can read the programming on the mistu ECU until then anyone can speculate all they wish. even dyno runs mean stuff all. Everyone knows you can get the same car and make 2 dyno runs half an hour apart and make/loose some kw, especially the minor amount that CAI would add.

Nice article from autospeed: http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_1379/article.html

Damn, someone has beat me to it! :P

I take it you've looked at all the other nice articles on there magtech?

I think everyone else should read them aswell, especially the exhaust ones.. "omg I'll lose back pressure!!!"


Anyway, what the article says basically. It isn't good to play around to much designwish from the stock one, as mitsubishi have tuned this, unless you have a dyno and are willing to put a lot of time into tuning it and getting the best out of, new pipe width, new pipe length, etc.

Anyway, what the article says basically. It isn't good to play around to much designwish from the stock one, as mitsubishi have tuned this, unless you have a dyno and are willing to put a lot of time into tuning it and getting the best out of, new pipe width, new pipe length, etc.

So does all this mean that RPW's CAI is bs?

So does all this mean that RPW's CAI is bs?

Hmmm, I'm not sure where you got that from, I think you accidently only read the first part of my post. Here, I'll put it in bold for you.


Anyway, what the article says basically. It isn't good to play around to much designwish from the stock one, as mitsubishi have tuned this, unless you have a dyno and are willing to put a lot of time into tuning it and getting the best out of, new pipe width, new pipe length, etc.

I think the RPW kit would be good for responsiveness, you have all this air that is sitting in the pipe already passed the air filter, so when you give it the beans and the butterfly opens, and there's air there waiting to come in already.

I'm sure RPW has tested it and have seen gains, that is probably why they're selling it. I said it was bad if you don't have a dyno and do no testing, so you can get the most out of it.

Read the article, is good, is good.

I think the RPW kit would be good for responsiveness, you have all this air that is sitting in the pipe already passed the air filter, so when you give it the beans and the butterfly opens, and there's air there waiting to come in already.

The responsiveness of the RPW kit is due to the pod filter (slightly larger surface area) and the drawing of cooler air (as opposed to warmer air of the engine bay).

As Killer has already mentioned, it's best not to move the position of the airflow sensor. Modifying the intake before and up to the sensor should yield some results depending on how well it is done.

Hmmm, I'm not sure where you got that from, I think you accidently only read the first part of my post. Here, I'll put it in bold for you.



I think the RPW kit would be good for responsiveness, you have all this air that is sitting in the pipe already passed the air filter, so when you give it the beans and the butterfly opens, and there's air there waiting to come in already.

I'm sure RPW has tested it and have seen gains, that is probably why they're selling it. I said it was bad if you don't have a dyno and do no testing, so you can get the most out of it.

Read the article, is good, is good.

The RPW CAI i'm taking about with the silicon bends is an EXACT COPY of a once well known 'THSmoker' kit. This was created without the use of a dyno or any other sophisticated equipment, just on the idea that more air and a lower temp is good.

RPW spewed this kit out only a short time after 'THSmoker' did his with no adjustment or alteration to the first design which makes me wonder whether he could get a spot on design first time from a few random elements.. i'm sure it could be improved easily from a backyard idea into a professional product yet there is no change..

Without having seen the RPW kit (pics?) I would imagine the best intake set-up from AFM to TB would be an intake bladder like the ones sold by Top Fuel and ARC.

Example 1:

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/real_size_image/engine_tuning_parts/intake_chamber/ARCintakechamber.htm

Example 2:

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/real_size_image/air_cleaner/topfuelpowerchamber.htm

My mate has the Top Fuel intake in his '98 Prelude, and it improved the mid-range response quite noticeably (although with VTEC motor you would probably gain more from an aftermarket intake).

I've seen that around a bit.. Wonder if someone could rip a jobby like that up for us.. i guess for the CAI stuff people have been making you could just go from a 3" 90 from the TB to a 3" - 5" a bit of 5" stainless and a reducer 5" - 3" and the filter.. would be interesting to see the results.

The RPW CAI i'm taking about with the silicon bends is an EXACT COPY of a once well known 'THSmoker' kit. This was created without the use of a dyno or any other sophisticated equipment, just on the idea that more air and a lower temp is good.

orly?


RPW spewed this kit out only a short time after 'THSmoker' did his with no adjustment or alteration to the first design which makes me wonder whether he could get a spot on design first time from a few random elements.. i'm sure it could be improved easily from a backyard idea into a professional product yet there is no change..

I thought I had seen posts on this forum saying the RPW kit was rubbish anyway..?

Without having seen the RPW kit (pics?) I would imagine the best intake set-up from AFM to TB would be an intake bladder like the ones sold by Top Fuel and ARC.

Example 1:

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/real_size_image/engine_tuning_parts/intake_chamber/ARCintakechamber.htm

Example 2:

http://www.perfectrun.com.au/real_size_image/air_cleaner/topfuelpowerchamber.htm

My mate has the Top Fuel intake in his '98 Prelude, and it improved the mid-range response quite noticeably (although with VTEC motor you would probably gain more from an aftermarket intake).

Isn't that the secondary purpose of the resonant chambers between the TB and filter?
Filtered air sits in the chambers ready to be sucked in with no resistance.

if i made a fancy looking cold air intake and then put claims on that it gave power gains i could sell heaps, even if it did sweet F all. people would buy it because it looks cool and it would meet what they thought they wanted.

Isn't that the secondary purpose of the resonant chambers between the TB and filter?
Filtered air sits in the chambers ready to be sucked in with no resistance.

Actually there is resistance in resonators as they are sealed units with only one opening. It's like trying to suck air our of a glass bottle.

The resonators are there to simply cancel out unwanted frequencies. They resonate at the same frequency they are designed to cancel out but obviously in the opposite polarity (phase shifted 180 degrees) as air flows past them (like blowing over the opening of a glass bottle). The frequency at witch they resonate is dictated by their shape and more importaintlly their volume.

They can also be used to reduces turbulence in the intake smoothing out air flow (especially around bends).