ok just put in the slotted rotor's FINALLY after ages haha and got some of the new bendix pads to try em out with...

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y5/mehhh/Image002.jpg


so there in. how do i wear them in properly ? or do i just drive like normal ?

not 100% but i think you accelerate to 40, brake to 0, up to 50, then 0, then 60, then 0 then 60 then 0 again.

Don't put new pads on new rotors.

I can't remember where i heard that but apparently its bad.

Don't put new pads on new rotors.

I can't remember where i heard that but apparently its bad.

i think you mean dont put old pads on a new disc

bed in is easy 0 to 60 at 60 brake till 10kmh repeat about 5 times

'

i think you mean dont put old pads on a new disc

bed in is easy 0 to 60 at 60 brake till 10kmh repeat about 5 times

'

No theres nothing wrong with either ways... but they do reccomend to bed in new rotors on old pads, and new pads on old rotors.

I've had success with bedding in new pad and rotor combinations on numerous occasions.

You need to bed them in correctly; they pads and rotors need to be heated to a certain temperature, which lays down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface.

It needs to occur gradually, rapid heat build up will cause damage to the pads and warpage of the rotors. Also, while the brakes are hot -do not hold the vehicle still with your foot on the brake. The pads will melt onto the hot rotor surface, and when the pedal is released it leaves a heavy patch on the rotor. This may cause slight imbalance.

The best and safest procedure is:

Start the car, prepare on a long straight road with no traffic in dry conditions. With right foot on the throttle, steadily drive at 40km/h with left foot slightly applying pressure to the brake pedal. Drag the brakes like this for 5-10secs to pre warm them.

After pre warming, accellerate up to 50-60km/h. Brake with moderate pressure down to 10km/h and repeat again. After the first two slow-downs, increase the brake pressure to a fairly firm stop but not near lockup point. Do a further 5-6 slowdown like this.

By now the pedal should feel good. Continue driving for a period of 10-15 mins to allow the brakes to cool (they make be emitting smoke... d/w its normal.). Avoid coming to a complete stop with your foot on the brake, so pick a good road with no traffic or downhill areas.

All done, when you return home allow the brakes to cool naturally.. dont wash the car until they cool, etc etc.

If its done correctly, you should be able to see a grey/blueish cloudy glaze on the rotor surface.


Btw mate, is that your FR wheel there? (i think it is... i see crank pulley and filter there lol) If so then your rotor is on backwards... you need to swap sides.

the idea of bedding in pads is to match the face of the pad and the disc
if you use a old pad your going to make a imprint of the worn pad onto the new disc
the other reason you you use the new pads is to create heat in the pad to make the glue go off.

who ever told you to use a old pad has rocks in there head < very bad idea

far as i know the disc is on the right side of the car?

Don't put new pads on new rotors.

I can't remember where i heard that but apparently its bad.

haha what do they do with brand new cars then?? i dont think thats an issue mate

the idea of bedding in pads is to match the face of the pad and the disc
if you use a old pad your going to make a imprint of the worn pad onto the new disc
the other reason you you use the new pads is to create heat in the pad to make the glue go off.

who ever told you to use a old pad has rocks in there head < very bad idea

No, the purpose of brake bed-in is to lay down a layer of transfer film from the pad onto the rotor surface. Reason why we machine rotors prior to fitting new pads is not just to remove any warpage, but also to remove any previous surface film laid by old pads. Residue from the old pad compound will leave an irregular surface on the old rotor, which will cause the pads to sort of 'grab-slip-grab-slip' etc, causing shudder and/or squealing. 3/4 of brake squeal is caused by impropperly bedded brakes.

far as i know the disc is on the right side of the car?

Umm.. its an angle-slotted rotor mate... :nuts: Which are directional. Same with angle/curved vane ventilation in rotors. They need to be angled in favour of forward rotation of the rotor.

But, by all means, be my guest and put it on backwards if you want optimal braking performance while reversing lol .

Umm.. its an angle-slotted rotor mate... :nuts: Which are directional. Same with angle/curved vane ventilation in rotors. They need to be angled in favour of forward rotation of the rotor.

But, by all means, be my guest and put it on backwards if you want optimal braking performance while reversing lol .

my bad thought it was a tr ts

been fitting brakes for 14 years and worked in 7 different workshops never ever put old pads on new rotors. ring bendix ask them.

squeeling is from dust build up and vibration.

why would you use a worn and uneven surface on a new rotor?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml

been fitting brakes for 14 years and worked in 7 different workshops never ever put old pads on new rotors. ring bendix ask them.

squeeling is from dust build up and vibration.

why would you use a worn and uneven surface on a new rotor?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml

I was told by steve from DBA when i put DBA4000series wiper slot rotors on the front of my magna to "bed" the rotors in with some soft old pads (making sure the pad faces were flattened off before using) to help finish off the tempering/conditioning process on the rotors faces then fit the new pads and heat the discs up until the second heat paint mark (the 4000/5000series have 3 heat paint marks) has changed colour.

This process was to be done by NOT slamming on the brakes but by doing moderate hard stops with cool down periods in between, once the paint had changed colour the disc were deemed conditoned.

I did that and havnt had one squeal or anything out of them.

There is actually a write up about the bedding in procedure on MRT's (middleton rally team) disscusions forums under "DBA brake clinic".

Heres a link http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=103

been fitting brakes for 14 years and worked in 7 different workshops never ever put old pads on new rotors. ring bendix ask them.

squeeling is from dust build up and vibration.

why would you use a worn and uneven surface on a new rotor?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml
But you have put new pads on old rotors? I honestly dont see much of a difference there. Neither of the surfaces match, and the transfer film is still different.

And vibration is from what? Incorrectly bedded brakes...

I was told by steve from DBA when i put DBA4000series wiper slot rotors on the front of my magna to "bed" the rotors in with some soft old pads (making sure the pad faces were flattened off before using) to help finish off the tempering/conditioning process on the rotors faces then fit the new pads and heat the discs up until the second heat paint mark (the 4000/5000series have 3 heat paint marks) has changed colour.

This process was to be done by NOT slamming on the brakes but by doing moderate hard stops with cool down periods in between, once the paint had changed colour the disc were deemed conditoned.

I did that and havnt had one squeal or anything out of them.

There is actually a write up about the bedding in procedure on MRT's (middletons rally team) forums under "brake clinic".

Or just read what i posted... i just said basically the same thing. lol

been fitting brakes for 14 years and worked in 7 different workshops


Sounds like you're an expert already ^^^^^^

so whats with the thread?!? :nuts:


so there in. how do i wear them in properly ? or do i just drive like normal

Sounds like you're an expert already ^^^^^^

so whats with the thread?!? :nuts:

did u even read the thread ?? i think not. i was asking the question not him :gtfo:

oh and fire storm, yes they are the right side haha :D

well i had success i think :nuts: they arent shaking or anything and they feel nice to brake so i geuss i did it right

oh and fire storm, yes they are the right side haha :D

well i had success i think :nuts: they arent shaking or anything and they feel nice to brake so i geuss i did it right

They wont 'FEEL' wrong... just you wont get them braking at their best performance. Wont do any harm though.