Hows it going guys i need help with my handbrake it will hold on upwards slopes (with a touch of rollback before it grabs) but it wont hold on downwards slopes it just rolls. Very frustrating had my mechanic look at it hes tightened it but then it was too tight and rubbing so its obviously not that. They machined one of the disks too which seemed to help a bit but its still doing the same thing was wondering if any of you had any ideas.

Get new rear rotors.. cheap, approx 50 bucks each aftermarket, and new genuine improved handbrake shoes, also cheap! get them fitted, adjusted properly, and all should be ok!

just un adjust the cables

then adjust the rear shoes till the wheel dont turn
un do the adjuster till the wheel moves with slight friction of shoes touching the drum

readjust the cable if needed

Similar probs.....
I adjust it and it keeps for few weeks and every time I use it, it squeals until I jerk it hard when rolling (to reset the shoes?). And regardless, it never holds properly. Annoying.
I think this is quite common Magna prob?

just un adjust the cables

then adjust the rear shoes till the wheel dont turn
un do the adjuster till the wheel moves with slight friction of shoes touching the drum

readjust the cable if needed

:stoopid: i did this not long ago. Take it apart and clean everything as well.

the mitsubishi manual has something about driving the car with the handbrake half on, in both directions, (presumably to wear the pads down) From memory it was drive for 40 meters then allow to cool for 10 minutes then repeat. Get the service manual it might help

I have the service manual and its not that. It seems as though one side is catching and one isn't but the whole upward holding and downward rolling has me stumped.
Oh and the handbrake cable isn't stretched.

has one of the brake clyders (bs) seized in the calipar?? is one side wearing quicker that the other. i have a 1st gen and yes i know it's different but a couple of weeks ago i tried to use the handbrake when parking but it was so soft ( the handle lifted way to easy)that it wouldn't go on. had a look and found that the rubber boot around the cly had a crack in it which let a bit of water in thus ceasing the cly. the first gens are self adusting. so i took it apart cleaned it well , re-lubed and put in fresh pads . presto solved it. have u tried taking the wheel off and looking at it ur self , just cuts out the middle man. not saying ur mech is wrong but maybe he missed something.

I haven't taken it off myself I'm to petrified i wont tighten the wheels enough. I have the manual and was reading over it and i really doubt id be able to fix it better than my mechanic i do trust him quite a lot. But he really has overlooked something its getting worse and worse today it started staying on whilst driving causing a terrible squeak I'm taking it in tomorrow for him to have a look at it. It feels normal so I doubt its the same as the problem you described it clicks back 6 clicks and seems quiet firm.

Mines rooted too, i know why though i used to rip it on and slide a lot :nuts:
Now its loose as **** and i can rip it on at 100k's and nothing, doesnt hold at all so i don't use it anymore, one slight annoyance though is when crawling through carparks it sometimes squeals but when i pull it up it stops :redface:

Yeah, just take it back to him and explain the problem to him. Any decent mechanic would'nt charge you again as he didn't fix the problem properly in the first place.

Rust was apparently the problem there was a build up of rust on the rotor causing the handbrake not to hold.... I dunno about that though cause it seems to rust up pretty quickly (about 4 weeks) maybe ill bite the bullet and get new rotors and pads. How much are the genuine pads?

Rust was apparently the problem there was a build up of rust on the rotor causing the handbrake not to hold.... I dunno about that though cause it seems to rust up pretty quickly (about 4 weeks) maybe ill bite the bullet and get new rotors and pads. How much are the genuine pads?


hmmm rust will dissaper after u use the pedal brake once or twice:nuts: and if u haven't used the brakes (or driven the car)for a week or so you'll get surface rust. sounds a bit dodgy or someone is making excuses for not being able to fix it. not doubting ur mechanic but it seems weird. best to get a second opinion i say

I had this problem when I first bought my car ( 3rd Gen - TJ ).
Hanbrake seemed fine on the flat but get it on a downward hill and it had no grip.

The little pin between the actuating lever and the piston cap had come loose on one side. Couldn't find it so I bought a new one and replaced it but still had problems. Pulled it apart again and found the original pin imbedded in the grease inside the rubber dust cover. Replaced it and can now lock the rear wheels up with the handbrake at any speed.

Having one side working isn't enough to hold the weight of he car on a downhill slope. Facing uphill seems to work better, possibly something to do with the self actuating charactristic of the handbrake mechanism.

The test for weak handbrake is to jack up the rear of the car, put the car in neutral and apply the handbrake. Now see if you can rotate the rear wheels by hand. If one rotates and one doesn't, you've identified the faulty one that needs to be checked out.

I had this problem when I first bought my car ( 3rd Gen - TJ ).
Hanbrake seemed fine on the flat but get it on a downward hill and it had no grip.

The little pin between the actuating lever and the piston cap had come loose on one side. Couldn't find it so I bought a new one and replaced it but still had problems. Pulled it apart again and found the original pin imbedded in the grease inside the rubber dust cover. Replaced it and can now lock the rear wheels up with the handbrake at any speed.

Having one side working isn't enough to hold the weight of he car on a downhill slope. Facing uphill seems to work better, possibly something to do with the self actuating charactristic of the handbrake mechanism.

The test for weak handbrake is to jack up the rear of the car, put the car in neutral and apply the handbrake. Now see if you can rotate the rear wheels by hand. If one rotates and one doesn't, you've identified the faulty one that needs to be checked out.

Your my hero :P
Yeah it still wasn't fixed but my mechanic had a fair go and didn't charge me so im not annoyed with everything else hes been great. Ill get my mate who is also a mechanic to have a look at this pin problem you speak of cause you described exactly what is happening with mine.

You'll see the pin in the top box in the picture.