Okies
Now Ive had this prob for a while, tried to fix it twice and failed on both occasions due to wrong diagnosis so Im hoping I can get one last ditch attempt at redeeming this bloody car.

(Ive told this story a few times on the forum, sorry but bare with me) Now when I accelerate my car between 1000-2000rpm it lurches forward or barely moves at all if I put it under a little bit of load. It can some times feel like if you change down too many gears and the car throws you forward in your seat. Other times if its up in higher rev ranges and I put the foot down it does the same thing either throws me forward or it suddenly loses all its acceleration. This can be very annoying when you try to dart across oncoming traffic and you magna sh*ts itself. Only way to drive it is to keep it in high revs and try hardest not to put it under any load.

Now I first thought it was the injectors, Had them checked and bloke said they were fine but dizzy was rooted so 1st Repair: Dizzy Cap Replaced, Result is for a little while car is fine.

2nd Repair: Problem returns, due to electrical diagnosis before I decide to replace the leads. Result is no difference in car, Its a little smoother but no difference.

BUT the guy who did my leads said the injectors we're messing up. Now thats one idea either replace or service the injectors. But ive done a bit of reading on the forums and some other people with similar probs have suggested the air flow meter thingo in the MAF sensor.

Ive really loved this car when I bought it but this problem has made me lose alot of faith in it so can anyone please help me before I decide to end its existance in a very violent manner.

Try a bottle of wynns spitfire injector cleaner. Might not fix it, but if the car runs better you'll know they could be the culprit.
It sounds more like the Transmission could be having some issues. Have you taken the car to Mitsubishi to get the computer looked at? Just to see if any error codes have been logged?

Im not so sure its the gearbox, it seems to work fine. Another thing I left out is the car performs better when the engine is cold, when it heats up the ****ter it runs. How much will Mitsu charge me to hook it up to a computer for diagnosis?

From my knowlage on mitsubishi services its not good enough you bought one of their cars they want the shirt off your back too...

Hey another query, How much would a good engine recondition cost?

there is a downloadable repair manual ask "gas head" or a cd you can buy

as your car is a manual it can only be fuel or electrical related

some one must know where the diagnostic plug is for your car

my guess near the fuse box or the centre consule

then its a simple thing to plug either a mutimeter or led light up to that

thats almost a DIY simple as pluging in a light switch

contacted a few members who might know ..they should post soon

I had this same problem before I traded my TE. I never got to the bottom of it though, I changed the maf and it didnt do anything. My car was all or nothing, you could flog it or it would bog down and almost stall.

The diagnostic plug on the 2nd gens is on the fuse box next to the drivers right foot. Don't know if the 3rd's are the same.

the workshop manual download is at: http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3

It will give you the codes which can be checked with an analogue multimeter or a led.

Rob

Cheers heaps guys, I'll look into it. But also, lately just been thinking about fixing the car enough to sell it. But today had a change of heart and though might just start over and recondition it.

Any quick qoutes on how much this might cost me? I intend to take a loan out, also any 'little' things I might do while the engine is out to make the car pull a bit better. Was think of taking out around 4-5k. Will this be enough?

I had this same problem before I traded my TE. I never got to the bottom of it though, I changed the maf and it didnt do anything. My car was all or nothing, you could flog it or it would bog down and almost stall.

my manual te is fine with stock air box but as soon as i put kn pod filter on it bogs down b4
getting power unless i put a bit of load under it.. give it about 4000revs then let the clutch out
and its like a rocket. not much will get me of the lights but drive normally and chokes on air by the sounds of it.. heard that the kn pod filter sends air in swirling motion which sends wrong signal to maf where as the hexagonal filter from PWR PERFORMANCE directs air in a straight motion.... please help with advice... driving me bananas:confused:

well u want the oval pod filter, not the circular one

and theres many many ppl on here using the k&n oval pod filter without a prob, though some talk of a 'flat spot'...is that wat urs is suffering from? (ps next time better off making a new thread, as JarRah no longer has this prob as the car is up for sale...)

well u want the oval pod filter, not the circular one

and theres many many ppl on here using the k&n oval pod filter without a prob, though some talk of a 'flat spot'...is that wat urs is suffering from? (ps next time better off making a new thread, as JarRah no longer has this prob as the car is up for sale...)

Quite the contrary, the problem is the reason for sale.

I had a similar problem on an EFI Corolla a while back - could get up plenty of revs but when you put the car in gear to take off it would lurch and die. Turned out to be bad earths around the ECU. Tightened them up and away we went. Suggest you try checking all the earths you can find around the engine and the ECU.
Other possibility is a faulty vacuum line. Sometimes when you idle they're OK but when you apply the vacuum, a small split can open up and let extra air in. May not help but then again just might. :D

Cheers for the input, but right now I've lost all caring about this car. I still want to get another magna but for now I just don't car about this one. The problem is probley so small but so many people both on the forums and mechanics have given me different solutions I just don't the money to start chopping down the list.

I even tried to sell the thing for $2500 to anyone that just wanted to take the car for the 5sp manual for a auto to manual conversion. No takers. So i dunno right now, Its still drive able so I guess i just drive it till someone takes it or it dies.

I traded mine in, know how you feel. Thank god it didnt play up when the dealer started it.

Yea mine was at a point where I thought, stuff it I'll take anything as long it has three zeros after the first number, then I scratched and destroyed my front fender so now I dont even think those greasy car salesmen will take it.

My car just had these issues and it was put onto the computer at Mistu and it came back saying my oxygen sensor was sending mxied messages to the comp and causing the car to suffercate itself and it also said my coolant sensor was stuffed to, both were replaced and the car has be great ever since.

Mitsumagna had a similar issue and replaced his oxygen sensor and his problem was fixed also.