Alrighty thanks to woob i have 2 amps showing up at my door any day now :D Both alpine V-12's. One is a MRV-F345 (4x75wrms) and the other a MRD-M605 (1x400wrms) Now the plan is to get some Type R splits for the front ($280) and i already have Type S Coaxils in the rear (installed tomorrow). First of all how much would i be looking to get the Type R's, and the amps installed for? with all the wiring needed to run the fronts and rears off the F345?

Now should i also get them to install the M605 at the same time even though i dont have a sub yet? like would it be cheaper to get it all done at once?

Now lastly a sub??? i havnt had any time to go and start testing subs yet but i will tomorrow, but just wondering what would you all be recomending, i listen to metal/rock mainly so am goin for good SQ, but i also like loud and lotsa bass. Price range is probally up to a MAX of $500 with enclosure, so yeah any input would be great.

Cheers, Mikey

well i was quoted at alberts here for the splits, headunit and amp installed for $700, including sound deadening in the doors etc, and i think HU install is about $100, so that would be $600 to answer ur question, but it all depends on where u go.

wont make it any cheaper gettin the sub amp installed at the same time. the splits amp will either go under ur passenger seat or on one side of the boot, and ur sub amp will probably go on the other side of the boot, meaning the wiring is running on different sides of ur car, so it wont make it any easier for them to wire it all up on the same day, so i doubt u'll get it any cheaper.

alot of places just have set prices for installs. eg HU = $xxx, splits = $xxx, amp in cabin = $xxx, amp in boot = $xxx... so u wont really be able to negotiate many places down.

just get a reputable installer, get the doors sound deadened, decent wiring, and u'll b all set :)

Hey Mike,
The prices can get into the $700 + mark just for the install as Spackbace pointed out.
You might want to try Strathfield, Autobarn or JB they have fixed prices and are good but if you just want a basic install this is what you will get from them. They will more then likely mount your amps against the back seat if they can (depending on the size). If your after a custom stuff then the yellow pages might be a good start in your area, I'd visit the shop and see the sort of work they do before putting down your hard earn $$$.
Your other option is putting the stuff in yourself, which the forum is great for, I did this myself and found it worth the extra time and effort. Also very rewarding.

As for Subs have a look at this link 2 pioneer subs:
http://www.strathfield.com.au/images/Catalogues/20070319/JPG/p7.JPG

Autobarn has two Clarion DP12xb enclosed box
http://clarion.com/au/en/products/2006/audio/subwoofers/DP12XB/au-en-product-pf_1149239323697.html

Hey yall, thanks for feed back thus far. Alrighty thats got the splits pretty much covered except the guy at Elite (Sound audio place in Belconnen) said only a few 6/6.5" splits would be mountable in a TS magna cause of depth. and then recomended some old 5 and a 1/4" Type R splits. now i know this aint right because many people have 6 inch splits in them, so wat the jebus is he on about?

Anywho with subs was thinking more along soundstream, alpine, kicker, jl, pheonix gold, ect. dono much about clarion and i heard bad about pioneer. so yeah any more thoughts?

As for self install i wouldnt know where to begin but is there any tutorials ect out there? i'd love to do it myself but have no guidence lol.

Cheers Mikey

with the amp i sold you, and your preferences, i would STRONGLY recommend a 12" Kicker L5 or L7 if you can find one on the cheap cheap. these are brilliant subs that suit most people very nicely. also stock Kicker boxes are great boxes compared to the likes of Pioneer etc, so there will be no need to get anything custom made, costing $$$ :)

as for install, ask them to run 2 or 4gauge to the boot, then run it straight into the 4 channel, and also run an extra set of rca's and plug them in while they are at it (they shouldnt charge any extra for this (apart from the cost of the rca's), then when it comes to installing the next amp, all you need to do is screw the amp in, get a splitter for the power wire, plug the rca's in, and daisy chain the remote wire :) if they charged you any more than $20 to do this i would tell them to get stuffed.

just shop around until you find a store who arent full of arrogant bastards and are willing to do good by you.

Mike you should be able to place 6.5" splits in the doors, but the main issue here might be around astetics. Since you may have to use a spacer on the door depending on the model you have you may want to do a search here and see what other have installed on their car.

I have an Elite TR and the door pods are large enough to house the 6.5" splits, which I think sound great.

Do a search on this (these are what the posts are called):
How-To: Installing a head unit in a 2nd gen
HU in TS's own wiring?
TR-TS Magna & Verada Speakers and h/u installation
How-To: Installing 6x9's in a 2nd Gen
Installing 6x9's in a TR
Help Installing HU and 6x9's in a TR Magna
A Visual Console Removal/Replacement Tutorial

Most of these posts are by mutelabs, in some cases he's put pdf files on step by step instructions on how to do it with pictures. Other there might be just wording but if requires you to read then do. My suggestion is to email him on mutelabs@gmail.com he should be able to assist you with either sending you the doco which he has put together or passing on the threads.

As for confidence read this thread:
Installing HUD + 2 x 6x9's in 93' TR
Also i had never done a car install and mine has turned out fantastic!
Once again you should do a search on the whole name that I have listed above.

I'm running 4GA power cable on the drivers side this isn't to hard to do. You just need to find the gromet under the dash near to where the brake pedel is and make a cut there and slide the cable through and run it to the boot, it will mean that you will need to remove the trim on the side of the door and also the seat and then move the cable to the boot.

I ran the rem amp cable and rca leads (3 sets, 1 for the sub and 2 for the speakers) along with the speaker cable from the front splits on the left hand side of the car to the boot. The door speaker should be able to be passed through behind the console make sure you have enough cable.

As for wiring up the head unit, my suggestion is to get a wiring harness, at the end of the day you may want to replace the new head unit when you decide to sell the car with the old one you had in there. So keep this in mind before you go cutting wires or anything like this. I have created a thread on wiring this up, end the end i cut the wires from the harness and linked them with the headunit harness. Very simple and very easy, I'm sure you can do it. You will just need to remove the console to get to the head unit.

As for subs I run a Swiss Audio 12" in my Magna, the WRX has a 12" Cliff Design, My brothers Fairmont has a 12" Sony and my other brothers Clubsprint Capri has a 12" MTX Competition sub, since his car is an open top he need a powerful sub, amp and splits.
I know that Clarion stuff isn't to bad, the original equipment in the WRX was Clarion and my brothers Fairmont runs 2 amps made by them. Really no one can suggest to you what's good or what's better. It depends on 2 things:
a) your amount of funding
b) what you like the sound of...
My suggestion is get out there and have a listen to what's on offer, you may find something that is in your price range and also looks and sounds great. Then again you might not, as you can see from the above no one has a brand that they like, just what sounds good and how much $$$ they had to play with at the time.

See how you go keep us posted if you get stuck.

Wow, massive post lol. thanks for all that, i put the head unit in myself a few weeks back, rear speakers went in yesterday so thats all good, i think i may have a look see at getting the front door trims apart and having a look at depth ect. i dont care to much if i have to put spacers in, the other option is one of them speaker mount plastic pod thingys (i hope somone knows wat im on about)

Sub wise, anyone have good or bad experience with JL, soundstream or Polk momo?

Gonna go listen to some subs tomorrow, guy said he'd give me a hand with it all so is all good, the Type S coaxils are so nice, make my car sound half decent now lol.

Thanks all, Mikey

JL is tops, i run a 10W6 in my sq setup, but their cheaper subs arent the most noticable things in the world :P

Polk's top range stuff is highly regarded, cheaper stuff is pretty rice, and imo, soundstream is average

btw did those amps turn up today? i expected they would be there either today or tomorrow

Yep Woob amps showed up today all good :D got them strait after work lol. lady was a biatch tho, wouldnt let me pay on credit card and was whingy but anywho... gonna go for a drive and price this evening, figured i should prob get a security alarm now aswell *sigh* money goes way too fast lol.

Anyways anyone got any more info on type R's fitting? or just a fitting depth for a TS??? May go out to wreckers tomorrow and see if any rada's around with some door trims, be alot smoother looking.

Cheers, Mikey

i have a W3 JL in mine and it freakin cranks. i only have 200w Rms running into from a 2 channel blaupunkt so they dont need much to fire up. i got it from JB's floor stock in a factory tuned box for $400 down from $759 just because it was floor stock. look around for bargains if you have the time. try www.boostcruising.com too. look in the for sale section under the forums tab. always a bargain to be had in there.

post pics of the install i want to see how about image dynamics, focal,rocky fosgate or even boss (joking) for the subs

i love my RF :)

Wow, massive post lol. thanks for all that, i put the head unit in myself a few weeks back, rear speakers went in yesterday so thats all good, i think i may have a look see at getting the front door trims apart and having a look at depth ect. i dont care to much if i have to put spacers in, the other option is one of them speaker mount plastic pod thingys (i hope somone knows wat im on about)

Sub wise, anyone have good or bad experience with JL, soundstream or Polk momo?

Gonna go listen to some subs tomorrow, guy said he'd give me a hand with it all so is all good, the Type S coaxils are so nice, make my car sound half decent now lol.

Thanks all, Mikey

Good work on getting that stuff in yourself seriously the other stuff you'll find easy then.

With regards to the front door trims head to a wrecker and see if you can pick up a verada/elite door trim. If not you will need to use spacers or a plastic pod. Either or is fine, you might want to do a search on door trim and see what you come up with or front speakers. As per normal you would narrow it down by car and also just car audio. You will more than likely find that people have posted pictures of the doors and how they have had them wired up this should help you in deciding what you want to do.

With regards to the list of brands you have put up polk and JL are great brands and make some really good stuff, in particular polk. Like I said before go have a listen and make an informed decision before you send any $$$ to any where.

Went a bit over board with the post before...lol Hope it helped.

Also you might also want to download your manual for the car...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3

See how you go with this lol lol

im going to press the fact that im heavily recommending the kicker to you here :P

i run the car audio competitions in WA, ive heard a crap load of subs, and based on the info given, i can be really confident that you would love this woofer.

wow really woob good stuff :thumbsup: how much would said sub cost do you think? and hows my system looking so far :P so kicker is good? what would you say with JL or Polk?

if you can get a JL W3 in box for $500 then i'd say you would be very happy with that.
the clarity and response of the W3 would be way above that of the of the L5/7, but in terms of output, the Solobaric would crush the W3.

ive honestly not have much dealings with Polk, but the only really good thing ive heard about them is their Reference splits, everything else seems to be a bit rice

Alright cheers for that, as for prices for L7 or L5's? and also say your opinion on L5 vs W3 vs Type R 12's? Please.

Cheers, Mikey

mikey check out http://www.customcar.com.au/index.cfm?p=products they have the price list for kicker + they the distributor of kicker

W3, clarity, tight punchy sound with the ability to go boomy when the music asks it to

L5, though a musical sub, it doesnt manage to reproduce music to the quality that the W3 achieves, thought it is much louder

Type-R, doesnt sound good and isnt loud.

also got soundstream as a possibility... some of their stuff is on ebay as well (yes the proper stuff)

*Edit* i've been looking at the SPLX 12" sub, and ebay has them for $388, but they have a retail on them of $999 :shock:
Ebay Link (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SOUNDSTREAM-SPLX122-12-SPL-Subwoofer-2000W-BURST_W0QQitemZ190095124977QQcategoryZ18803QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
looks the goods tho, good feedback on the company and all spelt in proper english, and comes from Australia

but dunno if it goes with ur amp sorry

SPLX's are supposed to be alright loud (can certainly get louder), they require a crap load of power to get them moving (which he doesnt have as you said), and they are mud for sound quality, i'd much recommend a T4 over one any day

Alright just found out the depth of Type R Splits.... 69mm (laughs childishly) now that aside THATS DEEP like alright i think theres 60mm MAX between the door trim and the window wound down, Anyways looks like im making a 10-15mm spacer on the door trim but behind my newly purchased Verada Speaker covers/map pokets.

Any advice???