View Full Version : paint question...
useranth5532
21-03-2007, 02:47 PM
hey so i want to get my grey skirts and door moulds colour coded. i was quoted today $300. however i was told that it wouldn't have the gloss like on the rest of the car because it is plastic. This guy does touchups, but also does colour coding for mitsusbishi. So to anyone who has had this job done, how does the paint match up?
DNO_007
21-03-2007, 03:44 PM
yer iam interested in getting this done aswell, but i was thinking of getting my loacl guy to mix me up the paint n put it in spray cans 4 me, that way i can do it my self. would love to know wat it would cost to get it done right, $300 seems about right.
spider-ken
21-03-2007, 04:08 PM
when you paint raw plastic the plastic "sucks in" the paint. as a result the finish will generally be duller than the finish on metal. this sometimes alters the colour a bit as well, not too noticably on dark cars, more so on lighter shade metallics(eg gold). generally this change is acceptable as you will notice all new cars have plastics that look slightly different to the body colour(the mazda 6 white pearl is attrocious). the best way i have found to fix this problem is to undercoat the desired part in a solid 2k colour that is close to the desired colour and will work as a base for it(ie ochre under gold). this also has the added benefit(if sanded properly) of removing the texture from the plastic. i find using 2K wrks better than primer as it dries harder and if it chips you see a similar colour to the topcoat rather than grey/white/beige primer. it also does not crack as easily as primer as the build is not as much. i have colour coded many bumpers this way and have not had a problem yet.
Will the 2k colour bubble like some paints do on plastic?
spider-ken
22-03-2007, 04:07 PM
Will the 2k colour bubble like some paints do on plastic?
only if not prepared properly. a special plastic primer MUST be put down first so that any paint applied will stick to the bare plastic. 95% of of paint problems are caused by poor prep work, not poor paint application. in this instance the 2k is being used as a primer of sorts. nice dry 2k is a great base for any paint work as it is non-reactive unlike some acrylics which can "fry up".
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.0.3 Copyright © 2016 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.