Just wondering if small (eg. dual 7") subs are worthwhile at all for getting a little bit more bottom end, on an uber-small budget? And for minimal impact on boot space?

I don't want anything much at all, really I just want something separate from the main system so I can prop-up the bottom a little. I have an old amp lying around, my HU has a dedicated sub output, but I DON'T want to lose bootspace, and can't justify the cost of larger subs. I've seen some cheap boxed dual subs (I think maybe 7" or 8"), that look like they should fit the bill, but just checking whether the output will be noticeable to any degree?

I figure any sub is better than no sub?

I have used a 8" bazooka sub in the past, and now I have a 400w 8" sub behind the front seats (all it really does is make the seats vibrate). I too wanted to save boot space.

I am not happy with either of them. Save a little more money and get a decent 12" sub or something in the boot. I have some really good 6x9 speakers in the back which have better bass than the 8" subs. I will be putting in a 12 " sub in the boot soon, I just need the time to make the box. Maybe look at putting one in the spare tyre spot... It's not like you really need it there! On second thoughts, with my luck I would be mad to remove it!

You want some decent-ish subs for a good price. Autobarn have dual 10" US-Audio subs in box for $95. Tell me that aint good value on a budget.

A decent 8" sub will produce very good tight bass without hurting your chest or vibrating your mirror off, and not take up much room either.
My mate had a Morel 8" and that sounded great! Nothing earth shattering, but for a budget, well worth the money.

Space wise for 2 x 7" subs, you may as well get a single 10" or 12".

if space is the issue, u can get slimline subs. afaik they have almost the same output as full depth ones?

i no jaycar and pioneer make them. heard good things about them.

but u can get some decent 6x9's with good bass output. also i member seeing somewhere theres a very small sub u can put in ur footwells for front fill? cant memba anything about them - maybe im on crack again?

bass tubes etc are only really good in utes

you do realise you can get alot of 12" subs these days for sub 100 bucks.... i recently bought a pioneer sub, the bottem end one, blue cone, 70 bucks (i needed some bass in the car as i had NO stereo) best 70 bucks i ever spent i reckon, rated at 150w rms, its goes pretty low in a 1.4 ^ft box and has a nice little punch to it... personally i wouldnt bother with 2 little 7" subs, just go a single 10 or 12

i recommend to plenty of people to get 8" subs to fill their parcel shelf holes.. in a space limited setup they are brilliant.. altho the subs i usually recommend to go in there are worth $300 a piece :P

i would still recommend 2 8" venoms to fill the rear holes or make a small box. they will most certainly fill in that bottom end a lot better than your front stage (thought my front stage plays to 40hz) :).

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=CS2340&CATID=&keywords=venom&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

cheap as chips too!

or if your really keen on maximum output + space saving from them, make up a pair of boxes to attach to your parcel shelf, so you mount the woofers in the shelf, yet have them in an ideal environment :)

So long as the speakers are true subs (i.e. not large midbass drivers) then they will be fine. The reason you have to watch this is that many small 'subwoofers' are actually midbass drivers and do not have a large physical excursion. Hence they tend to bottom out when you try to push them. :)

just put large midbass drivers in the doors and lots of deadener.

Looks like I might have to do more research, get off my **** and get some proper calculations going as to what size box to use, and how to make it so it doesn't impact on bootspace much.
I've seen plenty of 2nd-band boxed subs, Pioneer and Sony and the like, for around $60 for 12"ers, but the boxes just looked way too big for what I am after. So might have to custom-make.
It's not that I can't afford to buy, I just can't justify spending over say $60 for my requirements. I don't turn it up that much, and I'm usually more concerned with what's going on around me to notice a few Hertz sounding a little muddier than they should :D

Single 12" with a ported enclosure.

Works well - low price - low profile in your boot

Single 12" with a ported enclosure.

Works well - low price - low profile in your boot

Sealed is better... much smaller since space is a requirement, and also a lot more forgiving to dimensions than a ported box, seeing as he is thinking of making his own.

I would also say go a sealed 12, or a sealed 10. However, if you want to keep your bootspace, i would say go a really good pair of 6x9s in the back, something that can handle a bit of power. Also, but a good set of splits in the front, and deaden the doors 100%.

Im sure, most people would be mistaken to think that you are running a sub if you follow my above steps.

my mate picked up one of those slim line pioneer subs already in a pre-made box
i was pretty impressed by the amount of bass this thing was producing

pioneer tsw301r & gm3200t budget, low-end bass :P

If space is an issue Whise (one of the greatest sub designer / manufacturers for home / concert subs in the world who are aussie based in Melbourne) have developed new compact sub designs with Alpine I have a link attached (they are at the bottom of the page)
http://www.audiotech.net.au/ALPINESUBWOOFERS.ASP They were mking some in Melbourne a few years ago which mounted under the parcel shelf. Don't know if they are still around.

im now seeing any slimline parcel shelf stuff there.. the closest thing would be the LAT box which is still a lot bigger than a sealed, or even ported, 10" woofer box

now this is where i get confuzzed,

as far as i kno, using school physics, by using a ported enclosure you are easing the forward motion of the cone in your sub, and then by having the opening in the right place/size/volume of your box, you also use the movement of the cone back to the resting position, giving a better sound quality and longivity of your sub...

i thought this would be especially wanted in a smaller sub that wasnt running much power so that you use the full movement and get better results, yet mostpeople here rekon that non-ported would be better...

just wanted some clarification, maybe the real world physics is diff to the classroom stuff :D lol

ported enclosures dont give you better sound quality or anything like that as such. all comes down to opinion on this one, personally i prefer ported, thought my next box will likely be sealed.
in a sealed box your woofer is able to handle more power than a ported box due to the loading, but a ported box will usually give you a big gain in sound pressure, making it louder in a lot of cases.

my mate picked up one of those slim line pioneer subs already in a pre-made box
i was pretty impressed by the amount of bass this thing was producing
:stoopid: Those things can pump! A friend of mine has one behind the front seats of his single cab ute, great success!

now this is where i get confuzzed,

as far as i kno, using school physics, by using a ported enclosure you are easing the forward motion of the cone in your sub, and then by having the opening in the right place/size/volume of your box, you also use the movement of the cone back to the resting position, giving a better sound quality and longivity of your sub...

i thought this would be especially wanted in a smaller sub that wasnt running much power so that you use the full movement and get better results, yet mostpeople here rekon that non-ported would be better...

just wanted some clarification, maybe the real world physics is diff to the classroom stuff :D lol
Ported = Louder at certain frequencies, you can tune the box and port to give you a peak at certain freqs. This results in more output, but not necessarily better SQ, unless you tune it very low, which many woofers dont agree with. POrted boxes are easy to stuff up and not very tolerant if you screw up the port a bit (for sheer sq)

Ported boxes sacrifice low end extension as they dont handle below the tuning frequency of the port (in fact you shoudl have a subsonic filter at this point to protect the sub

Sealed - More protection for your sub from over excursion, as the box provides natural dampening.
More low end /natural extension
Less output / no peaks in response

So overall they are quieter, but give better SQ in that their response is more predictable, flatter and lower.

Not to say that well designed ported boxes cant sound good though
All depends on the characteristics of the sub QTS / thielle specs etc

Peace

Tim

Ported = Louder at certain frequencies, you can tune the box and port to give you a peak at certain freqs. This results in more output, but not necessarily better SQ, unless you tune it very low, which many woofers dont agree with. POrted boxes are easy to stuff up and not very tolerant if you screw up the port a bit (for sheer sq)

Ported boxes sacrifice low end extension as they dont handle below the tuning frequency of the port (in fact you shoudl have a subsonic filter at this point to protect the sub

Sealed - More protection for your sub from over excursion, as the box provides natural dampening.
More low end /natural extension
Less output / no peaks in response

So overall they are quieter, but give better SQ in that their response is more predictable, flatter and lower.

Not to say that well designed ported boxes cant sound good though
All depends on the characteristics of the sub QTS / thielle specs etc

Peace

Tim



I always like to defend ported boxed in general, because if you look at all the top home speakers, and im talking about things like Jmlab, and B&W, you will find that they are all ported. Why ? Because they can hit both, lower, and louder than if they were sealed. :D . That in mind, these speakers are not cheap, and alot of time and effort goes into desiging the right enclosure.

In cars, i think sealed is much much better than ported. It was a smoother, more linear bass rollof, which is what i love. Ported boxes, are boomy not because there ported, but because there ported in a car. Remember the massive bassgain that cars give

Ported = Louder at certain frequencies, you can tune the box and port to give you a peak at certain freqs. This results in more output, but not necessarily better SQ, unless you tune it very low, which many woofers dont agree with. POrted boxes are easy to stuff up and not very tolerant if you screw up the port a bit (for sheer sq)

Ported boxes sacrifice low end extension as they dont handle below the tuning frequency of the port (in fact you shoudl have a subsonic filter at this point to protect the sub

Sealed - More protection for your sub from over excursion, as the box provides natural dampening.
More low end /natural extension
Less output / no peaks in response

So overall they are quieter, but give better SQ in that their response is more predictable, flatter and lower.

Not to say that well designed ported boxes cant sound good though
All depends on the characteristics of the sub QTS / thielle specs etc

Peace

Tim


LEGEND! that makes alot of sence :D thanx man

Just installed 2 6.5" invisibass QMAX subs in my single cab triton with some wicked JL splits and other speakers and in the small area it is awsome! sounds like there is at least a 10 " in there somewhere

I'd recommend shooting down to autobarn or the like and getting a W306C. 1000W max, 400W RMS, $100 ~. They are 2006 models on run out prices, haggle, you'll get a good deal.

you can haggle 306's down to $90 at any autobarn or strathfield gaurenteed. dont bother trying to go lower because it wont happen :)

DUDE jbl manufacture an 8 sub that fits in a 9 litre sealed inclosure. you dont get any smaller than that. Your amp will have to be run in bridged mode to get the most out of the woffer.