Keep in mind the prices from Mitsubishi are trade prices.

90k service...

Oils-

Engine: Penrite Fully Synthetic 5W-50 5L + filter - $70
Gearbox: Redline MT90 4L - $120
Axle: Inclusive of Gearbox.

Fluids-

Coolant: Mitsi. - 3LTR @ $33.95 (retail - $42.50)
Brake: Castrol Super DOT 4 - 500ml @ $9.99
Clutch: Inclusive of brake fluid.

Other-

Brake pads: NOT NEEDED.
Timing Belt: Mitsi. - $56.16 (retail - $94.60)
[Included; centre bolt @ $27.18 (retail - $30.20) oil seal x 2 @ $21.60 (retail - $27.00) & crankshaft seal @ $9.28 (retail - $11.60) Power Steering belt @ $24.09 & Air Con belt @ $16.82]
Water Pump: Not needed.
Spark Plugs: NOT NEEDED.
Leads: NOT NEEDED
Fuel Filter: NOT NEEDED.
Injectors: Genuine Toyota injector cleaner @ $13.09 (retail - $17.00)

Total = $402.16 - Labour = $471.81 (included full service and road test + detail inside and out)

Grand Total = $873.97

i had the frnt pads replaced on my ralliart with what i was told were genuine mitsu pads.. they put ferodo pads on it (which werent the same as they came with) and they were CRAP! front wheels were black within 2 corners of braking and sqealed like anything..

from what ive heard, you cant go wrong with EBC Greenstuff.. not that it worries me now, coz i dont have my car anymore, but i should of really got them rather than the crap work put in there..

Yeah I'll either get genuine Ralliart ones from Mitsi, or the EBC Greenstuff front and Blackstuff rear.

Anyone got some thoughts on the rest?

Yes I have searched and found some good info, but a few things I couldn't find or they were not difinitive enough for me.

90k service...

Oils-

Engine: Penrite HPR10?
Gearbox: Redline (what type? where to get it?)
Diff: ??
Axle: ??

Fluids-

Coolant: Mitsubishi brand ok or are there better?
Clutch: ??
Brake: Best brake fluid?

Other-

Brake pads: Thinking EBC Greenstuff, or just Ralliart OE from Mitsi?
Timing Belt: Mitsi.
Water Pump: Needed?
Spark Plugs: ?
Leads: ?

Anything else I'm missing or forgetting?

mitsubishi quote ~4 hours for the 90k service. that includes the 45k major service, and the timing belt.

- the front plugs will be changed. i think mitsi box NGK ones.
- water pumps dont usually go with 3.5s
- im in the market for new pads soon. and am also interested in EBCs (further info would be good)
- brake fluid is all pretty standard. they have dot ratings. 1-4. 1 having the lowest boiling point. 4 higher. mitsi fluid is 3. if you do want to upgrade (track work perhaps) then make sure they flush braking system completely. and you will need 1.5 to 2 litres of the stuff.
- mitsi coolant is fine. no point in changing.
- all mitis manual gearboxes, except evo, use 75/85 oil. all pretty good. differences will be negligible
- oil is your choice. i dont even know how some people be so confident in one kind of oil. just stick to a reputable brand, right viscousity and you should be fine.

:)

Make sure you use the mitsu oil in your gearbox otherwise you'll be crunching gears, I made that mistake with my old car at the 90k service.

Brett i've got the platium sparks plugs here if ya want them, $20 for the 4 pack..normally bout $17ea i think.

I'm doing all the labour myself (except for the timing belt) Interesting to note the comments about the manual gearbox oil. I thought there was better stuff around than the standard mitsi stuff.


Brett i've got the platium sparks plugs here if ya want them, $20 for the 4 pack..normally bout $17ea i think.
I will get back to you on that probably later this week.

What about the clutch fluid and axle oil? It says in the book to change the axle oil?

Edited first post.

The axle oil will be the gearbox, the whole unit is called a transaxle.



... I think.

use redline for your clutch. works better than mitsu.. but like sports said, don't use just any gearbox oil... mitsu or go all out and get something really good not something inbetween.

i've had 2 sets of brake pads, so far, genuine mitsu were good and now i have greenstuff and they are about the same i think... no noise or dust just good solid brake's...
if you go mitsu, try asking for pajero pads.. they might add some for the 'Ralliart' name as its worth so much more when they are just the same brake pads.

i too have just had my 90k service done.. how many k's you got up now Brett?

[QUTE=Disciple]Yes I have searched and found some good info, but a few things I couldn't find or they were not difinitive enough for me.

90k service...

Oils-

Engine: Penrite HPR10
Gearbox: Mitsi.
Diff: IS GBOX
Axle: IS GBOX

Fluids-

Coolant: Mitsi.
Clutch: IS BRAKE FLUID IE DOT 4
Brake: Dot 4.

Other-

Brake pads: Thinking EBC Greenstuff, or just Ralliart OE from Mitsi?
Timing Belt: Mitsi.
Water Pump: Needed?
Spark Plugs: NGK IF YOU DONT REALLY CARE ABOUT THE MONEY PLATINUM
Leads: WHATEVER PHILLCOM'S SELLING IN ABOUT 9MM

Anything else I'm missing or forgetting?[/QUOTE]

only other stuff i'd mention is fuel filter and injectors. Clean t/b and maybe air intake and just check your exhaust for leaks/wear while your at it.

You probably have already thought of this **** anyway

use redline for your clutch. works better than mitsu.. but like sports said, don't use just any gearbox oil... mitsu or go all out and get something really good not something inbetween.

i've had 2 sets of brake pads, so far, genuine mitsu were good and now i have greenstuff and they are about the same i think... no noise or dust just good solid brake's...
if you go mitsu, try asking for pajero pads.. they might add some for the 'Ralliart' name as its worth so much more when they are just the same brake pads.

i too have just had my 90k service done.. how many k's you got up now Brett?
If I get any other brand of brake fluid it'll be Redline. I've seen it recommended by a lot of places. Redline for the clutch too then. I've done almost 90,000, I think about 89,700. Greenstuff and Blackstuff are the go too then.


only other stuff i'd mention is fuel filter and injectors. Clean t/b and maybe air intake and just check your exhaust for leaks/wear while your at it.

You probably have already thought of this **** anyway
Fuel filter was done only 5-10k ago when I had my car tuned so it should be ok, altho I might do it anyway so everything is done at the same time. Some injector cleaner is probably a good idea aswell as a T/B clean out. Cheers for that.

Edited first post again.

The one singular thing that makes my 4cyl second gen run better is cleaning the contacts in the distributor cap.
Get a 'points' file (I know you don't have contact points) and carefully file the white flaky stuff off the contacts in the cap, they build up very quickly and you lose a lot of acceleration

hey brett have you always used HPR10? i used it just recently, and have found that my rattle is back in the engine. I normally use helix plus with out rattle(rattle went away with the old cams) and now have it back since using penrite. just wanna know your experience thats all.
oh and i did not change water pump no need as mentioned earlier. do all plugs. maybe have leads tested. Someone once told me that the thinner genuine leads are better than some popular aftermarket thicker ones...just cant remeber who:think:

hey brett have you always used HPR10? i used it just recently, and have found that my rattle is back in the engine. I normally use helix plus with out rattle(rattle went away with the old cams) and now have it back since using penrite. just wanna know your experience thats all.
oh and i did not change water pump no need as mentioned earlier. do all plugs. maybe have leads tested. Someone once told me that the thinner genuine leads are better than some popular aftermarket thicker ones...just cant remeber who:think:
Thanks for the info man. Nah, I have never used the Penrite oil I've always used Magnatec and I get a bit of an engine rattle on first start up but it goes away after about 5-10 seconds. Might try the Shell Helix Plus - 10w-30?

Actually, what's the top of the line, most expensive oil for a magna? Mobil 1 or something?

Thanks for the info man. Nah, I have never used the Penrite oil I've always used Magnatec and I get a bit of an engine rattle on first start up but it goes away after about 5-10 seconds. Might try the Shell Helix Plus - 10w-30?

Actually, what's the top of the line, most expensive oil for a magna? Mobil 1 or something?


I think the mobil 1 full synthetic is probably the best you can get.. def the most expensive..
I use Motul 4100 10w30 seems to do the trick and is a bit cheaper..

I think the mobil 1 full synthetic is probably the best you can get.. def the most expensive..
I use Motul 4100 10w30 seems to do the trick and is a bit cheaper..

why is it the 'best'?

why is it the 'best'?

Becuase High price = High quality :nuts:

......jokes......

Motul stuff for the win IMHO. I'm using it in the engine, gearbox and radiator at the moment and can't fault it, but I'm sure there is other **** out there that is as good or better within the same price range.

Haven't you got the 3.5 V6 Disciple! There shouldn't be any rattle regardless...!

If its the 3.5 V6 you're putting it in, I'd even lean on the idea of Penrite HPR 5 as apposed to HPR 10. The HPR you use depends on the age of the engine. I'm using HPR10 in my TP without a problem!

The Penrite HPR is very good, they do have a better range called Sin but you really need to use that stuff from a brand new engine. If you're worried about using the lighter HPR 5 as opposed to HPR 10 you can use an oil stabiliser, which always works fine. The advantage of using an oil stabiliser and the oil of your choice over magnatec is that the oil stabiliser helps keep the oil on the parts without the fear with magnatec of suspending iron particles. HPR10 is the recommended oil but thats based on the worst engine scenerio. Either way Hpr5 with oil stabiliser would be the way to go!

Morey's Oil stabiliser is a good one, basically you add one bottle when you fill the oil (HPR 5 ;) ). If it smokes then that means your seals are a bit stiff, you should use Nulon ESL which softens and makes seals supple again. Try the Nulon E20 as well, it made my engine smoother and sound better.

For the brake & clutch fluid I'd use the higher spec Super Dot 4 as opposed to normal Dot 4. Its fully compatible, but is of better quality - as long as you get a good brand (and costs about a dollar more!). Brake & Clutch fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, and its life in a car is no more than 1 year for a normal Dot 4 and 2 years for super dot 4 (which has additives to reduce water absorption). Most people neglect this, and many people replace it up to every 3 or more years. Sometimes the manual says 3 years but thats bull! Apparently water in the clutch fluid is why slave cylinders wear out quicker, as well as brake pistons and to less of an extent clutch master cylinders etc...

For the gearbox Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75!

for oils its better to stay with one oil as much as you can. if u find a good one, stay with it coz all oils wear differently, two synthetics wont wear exactly the same.
even engine wear is better than random displacement

Thanks again for all the info. So many different oils and opinions... I'm changing my mind every other day. I think if I just get like all Motul or all Penrite or something is less confusing.

Found this stuff..

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/gear_box/gear12.html

That the right rating (viscosity or whatever)?

Ok, few more...

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/fork_brake_others/others04.html

I read somewhere DOT 5.1 is too much? So DOT 4 is the go?

Oil for me I use Fuchs, 10W40, does the job nicely for me, but I've also go half the k's on the clock. I do that and a filter every 5k

This is over-simplifying it, but Penrite is very good as its perfected for Australian conditions. That is, a temperature range from -10C to 50C.

Some overseas oils aren't viscous enough to cope with higher operating temperatures, but conversely may perform better at lower temperatures as such found in Europe or North America. With some of these oils during a hot summers day here you can lose oil pressure (from what i've heard).

There's no one oil that suits from the coldest European/North American temperature to Australian temperature range. The high temperature is more important for operating, the cold temperature more important for starting up.

After seeing the oil review I'm now thinking of getting some of this gear...

http://www.royalpurple.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=104&nav_cat_id=139&nav_top_id=60&dsa=7

Is the Synthetic Gear Oil overkill for my gearbox?

Thanks for the info man. Nah, I have never used the Penrite oil I've always used Magnatec and I get a bit of an engine rattle on first start up but it goes away after about 5-10 seconds. Might try the Shell Helix Plus - 10w-30?

Actually, what's the top of the line, most expensive oil for a magna? Mobil 1 or something?

It is semi synthetic 15w50. A mechanic i know who works at Mits recommends nothing under 50w for normal operating temps on 3rd gen magnas. I think the 10/30 you are thinking of is fully synthetic, and he reckons it is too light. using penrite keeps going with with that "3 gen" rattle in my car, so i will go back to helix. that royal purple sounds like magnatec

I'm going to get all my oils tomorrow. How much Gearbox oil and Brake Fluid will I need?

still want the plugs...they're just sitting in my glove box.

still want the plugs...they're just sitting in my glove box.
Don't know yet cause when my car was tuned Chris Romano ran a certain plug type in my car so I have to ring him and make sure first. I'll let you know.

Won't need those spark plugs thanks Scotty, mine are still good.

I've updated my first post with what I ended up getting and the total cost for it all. Hopefully it might be of some help to people who are unsure of what to get for their car or what prices they should be paying for what.

First post updated with labour costs + total cost of everything.

Keep in mind the prices from Mitsubishi are trade prices.

90k service...

Oils-

Engine: Motul 300V 10W40 - 4L @ $94.99
Gearbox: Motul GEAR FF-LSD TYPE 2 75W90. - 3L @ $39.99/L = $119.97
Axle: Inclusive of Gearbox.

Fluids-

Coolant: Mitsi. - 3LTR @ $33.95 (retail - $42.50)
Brake: Castrol Super DOT 4 - 500ml @ $9.99
Clutch: Inclusive of brake fluid.

Other-

Brake pads: NOT NEEDED.
Timing Belt: Mitsi. - $56.16 (retail - $94.60)
[Included; centre bolt @ $27.18 (retail - $30.20) oil seal x 2 @ $21.60 (retail - $27.00) & crankshaft seal @ $9.28 (retail - $11.60) Power Steering belt @ $24.09 & Air Con belt @ $16.82]
Water Pump: Not needed.
Spark Plugs: NOT NEEDED.
Leads: NOT NEEDED
Fuel Filter: NOT NEEDED.
Injectors: Genuine Toyota injector cleaner @ $13.09 (retail - $17.00)

Total = $427.12 - Labour = $471.81 (included full service and road test + detail inside and out)

Grand Total = $898.93



damn not bad Brett.

you mind saying what workshop you got to do that for ya?

damn not bad Brett.

you mind saying what workshop you got to do that for ya?
Browns Autobahn in Nambour. They always look after you there... the dude said he could tell I looked after my car and was meticulous with oils etc I used. They really did a great job. They also installed my heavy duty clutch when my original went bang.

One thing to note is that 4L of engine oil wasn't quite enough. They had to add half a litre. lol

Browns Autobahn in Nambour. They always look after you there... the dude said he could tell I looked after my car and was meticulous with oils etc I used. They really did a great job. They also installed my heavy duty clutch when my original went bang.

One thing to note is that 4L of engine oil wasn't quite enough. They had to add half a litre. lol

yeah damn thats along way away from me :cry:

yeah i think it uses 4 1/3 of a L

yeah damn thats along way away from me :cry:

yeah i think it uses 4 1/3 of a L


4.7lt including filter

Bumped to help other members.

Where do i get mitsu gear oil from?

;1091583']Where do i get mitsu gear oil from?

By Mitsubishi oil I'll assume you're talking about Diaqueen? I'm pretty sure some online US retailers sell it.

May I ask why you want Diaqueen specifically? There are better oils out there that meet the same specs.

I was just going on recommendations. Whats a better choice thats more easily available?

;1091676']I was just going on recommendations. Whats a better choice thats more easily available?

For the gearbox? Redline MT90.

Edit: Assuming it's a manual gearbox...

Yeah its manual. Thanks mate. I Can get that from repco or sprint or the like i assume?

;1091684']Yeah its manual. Thanks mate. I Can get that from repco or sprint or the like i assume?

Last time I got it, I got it from a place called Coventry Auto. If Repco don't have it, they should be able to order it. From memory it was just over $100 for a 4.6 or 3.6L container.

Alright, no worries. Thanks heaps for your help mate.

;1091741']Alright, no worries. Thanks heaps for your help mate.

No problem.