Ok the next mod on my list is a complete brake upgrade - i have already decided on the front package I want but am now looking at options for the rear. Firstly can anyone tell me what the standard rear rotor size is? I have read this somewhere before but can not remember.... I know the front on the TJ is 276 (???). Anyway have had a look at the RPW ones that has still single piston but are 285mm - has anyone done this and how much better was it? Or what other suggestions do ppl have?
I am getting the front ones from Hoppers Stoppers in VIC and have just sent them an email request for rear packages....

find a wrecked AWD, rip all the crap out of it and pit it on yours.

find a wrecked AWD, rip all the crap out of it and pit it on yours.
And then wonder why your handbrake setup now sucks.

And then wonder why your handbrake setup now sucks.


Really, hows it different?

Everything from the AWD will bolt up EXCEPT the rear rotors, the hat hight is different, this can be solved by using Ralliart rear rotors.

Really, hows it different?
It doesn't use the drums all FWD's use.

Ok the next mod on my list is a complete brake upgrade - i have already decided on the front package I want but am now looking at options for the rear. Firstly can anyone tell me what the standard rear rotor size is? I have read this somewhere before but can not remember.... I know the front on the TJ is 276 (???). Anyway have had a look at the RPW ones that has still single piston but are 285mm - has anyone done this and how much better was it? Or what other suggestions do ppl have?
I am getting the front ones from Hoppers Stoppers in VIC and have just sent them an email request for rear packages....

The rears don't do anywhere near as much as the front but I upgraded mine to maintain the brake balance. There's four options for modifying the rear as I see it.

1.RPW package - minimal fuss, but expensive
2.AWD Calipers with Ralliart Rotors - Calipers and Rotors are hens teeth at wreckers. Rotors are $550+ new from Mitsu. DBA brand rotors are not yet available.
3.AWD Calipers with AWD Rotors - Calipers are hens teeth. Requires spacer plate behind rotor are engineering cert to roadworthy.
4.AWD Caliper with '91 3000GT Rotors - Calipers are hens teeth. Spacers required between caliper bracket and hub. Requires part removal of dust shield. Requires Engineering Cert. to roadworthy.

I initially went with option 4 and it worked successfully for 12 months. But I never had it roadworthied and ended up replacing with option 2 just to err on the side of caution.

1.RPW package - minimal fuss, but expensive
2.AWD Calipers with Ralliart Rotors - Calipers and Rotors are hens teeth at wreckers. Rotors are $550+ new from Mitsu. DBA brand rotors are not yet available.
3.AWD Calipers with AWD Rotors - Calipers are hens teeth. Requires spacer plate behind rotor are engineering cert to roadworthy.
4.AWD Caliper with '91 3000GT Rotors - Calipers are hens teeth. Spacers required between caliper bracket and hub. Requires part removal of dust shield. Requires Engineering Cert. to roadworthy.
Option 5: use AWD calipers, rotors and hubs - pain in the bum and good-bye good handbrake

Option 5: use AWD calipers, rotors and hubs - pain in the bum and good-bye good handbrake

Where did you get the idea that AWDs don't use drums for park brakes. Why have that big
hub for nothing (compare front and rear hubs on the AWDs to the non AWDs and they
should be the same). I've never had problems with my park brakes and I have a steep drive
way, even when towing a heavy trailer with the car pointing at the road.

This may be a really stupid question... but you guessed it I will ask anyway....

Can you use ralliart rotors with the existing TJ setup eg calipers etc or will the whole thing need to be changed?

I am getting the front ones from Hoppers Stoppers in VIC and have just sent them an email request for rear packages....
looks like ive started a mad trend with these puppies!!

fi you'll love them, worth every cent!

This may be a really stupid question... but you guessed it I will ask anyway....

Can you use ralliart rotors with the existing TJ setup eg calipers etc or will the whole thing need to be changed?

Calipers and rotors need to be changed at the same time as the AWD rotors are larger diameter and will not clear the standard calipers.
;)

And then wonder why your handbrake setup now sucks.

The rear handbrake is a very simple set up with a lever and pin actuating a mecanical piston. The probable cause of your problem is that the pin (inside the actuating cylinder) has been dislodged from the lever (that connects to the cable through the backing plate).

When I bought my car i thought all was well until I couldn't work out why with the handbrake on, it would hold OK facing uphill but roll forward facing downhill. Jacked up the back of the car and with handbrake on hard and I could still rotate one of the wheels by hand. Found the handbrake pin inside the grease in the rubber dust boot over where the lever goes through the backing plate. Fitted it back into the cup-shaped end of the lever and I can now lock up the rear wheels with the handbrake while driving.

Hope this helps. :D

Where did you get the idea that AWDs don't use drums for park brakes. Why have that big
hub for nothing (compare front and rear hubs on the AWDs to the non AWDs and they
should be the same). I've never had problems with my park brakes and I have a steep drive
way, even when towing a heavy trailer with the car pointing at the road.
When I had mine swapped to AWD rears. I can't explain what they use but whatever it is, it's not what the FWD uses and the end result was having a handbrake that was not as secure as the original setup.


Hope this helps. :D
Thanks but that's actually unrelated to what I experienced.

I know it's not what the OP asked for but... I wouldn't bother with the rear brakes. They do MAYBE 20% of the braking and for the price you pay it's not really worth it. If you must tho, I'd suggest finding some Ralliart brakes from somewhere if possible.

I know it's not what the OP asked for but... I wouldn't bother with the rear brakes. They do MAYBE 20% of the braking and for the price you pay it's not really worth it. If you must tho, I'd suggest finding some Ralliart brakes from somewhere if possible.

:stoopid:
I was going to point that out, but i thought nah this guy has done his research.
I wouldnt worry about myself even if i had the money.

I know it's not what the OP asked for but... I wouldn't bother with the rear brakes. They do MAYBE 20% of the braking and for the price you pay it's not really worth it. If you must tho, I'd suggest finding some Ralliart brakes from somewhere if possible.
Agreed. The brake balance is ~35% so it's more a cosmetic upgrade.

Mind you, those who have 18's or larger with an open wheel design have wussy looking brakes back there :bowrofl:

']:stoopid:
I was going to point that out, but i thought nah this guy has done his research.
I wouldnt worry about myself even if i had the money.


lol - I am a GIRL!!!

But yeah I had done a bit of research and thought that even though the rears do not do that much it was still worth looking at given I am going up 50mm + at the front.

I will have to see if I can get my hands on a ralliart set up for the rear since it seems that AWD is a bit of a hassle and there are not many other options.

Either that or just make sure I keep putting performance pads on the rears.

Thanks everyone for the help!