Has anyone done any mods to decrease the effect of pressure drop from obstructions in their Air Flow Meter?

If so what were the results?

oh no its begun :shock:

Has anyone done any mods to decrease the effect of pressure drop from obstructions in their Air Flow Meter?

If so what were the results?
A ram style CAI and pod filter....much better running








That and an ECU that dont need the AFM :P

I can not see modifying the little stick in the AFM as benificial, it's one thing that should be left alone, however in the first gens.....

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37605&highlight=AFM

You do realise the Karmen Vortex AFM is designed to turbulate the air so it gets an accurate reading? All you can do is take out the honey comb pieces apart from the main middle part as that's where the reading is taken from.

Nah dont take out those honey comb pieces. You will probably end up rooting it.
One thing you can do is as follows. Im sure its been posted somewhere.
Inside the unit you will see a lump black, plastic lump (look through honey comb at the bottom). Best way i can describe it. YOu can adjust this providing you detach the afm from the airbox. It also means you need to remove the silastic or what ever they use to seal it in place. Phillips head or flat head screw driver whould do the job. This may give you jack in regards to performance or may help in some way. I havent messed with it. All it will do is allow a little more air through and may screw with your mixtures.

Note: I take no resposibility if anyone stuffs up their AFM or their engine car etc etc..... You know what i mean. Do this at your own risk.....

Regards

Everyone already realises they're almost certain to screw their AFM if they fiddle with it, resulting in the car running like **** and losing a huge amount of power, and if they dont screw it while fiddling with it they'll gain an immeasurable amount of power.

Risk/reward FTW :doubt:

You do realise the Karmen Vortex AFM is designed to turbulate the air so it gets an accurate reading? All you can do is take out the honey comb pieces apart from the main middle part as that's where the reading is taken from.

Yes, I understand this, but removing the honeycomb restrictor in the surrounding chambers would result in an increase in unmetered air. The airflow in the side chambers is only theoretically determined by the ECU based on the AFM signal of the centre chamber vortice count. Changing the conditions in the side chambers and not the centre chamber would throw out the A/F ratio equation, and cause leaning out.

I believe the honeycomb mesh simply is there to decrease airflow, resulting in decreased fuel requirements, and thereby reduce fuel consumption. It does not direct air at the columnar vortice creating object. It simply reduces flow.

Carefully removing it altogether would be the best option for performance enthusiasts. Like any mod which would increase power it would also increase fuel consumption.

I have removed all of these Honeycomb shaped pieces in the past, it made the car slugish on light throttle, so I put them back. You will notice all the pieces are different thicknesses, to get different flow rates over different areas of the AFM. So if you remove just the middle one, as the middle one is the thickest and therefore has the slowest rate of flow, will it make the car run slightly richer because of the increased flow rate??....then add more timing......more power???

I can not see modifying the little stick in the AFM as benificial, it's one thing that should be left alone, however in the first gens.....

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37605&highlight=AFM

being the pioneer of this mod it had its pros and cons.. running stock tp injectors my car ran fine with this mod even with a non functioning tps

i changed to tr injectors and i had surging at 1800 rpm, repluged the "added flow" and the surging stoped but i had missfire at <1800 rpm (one or 2 pots leaning out at low rpm) due to the fuel rail being run at a lower psi rating than a tr, i belive both are more injector/rail psi related more than the mod. i plan to fit a rising rate FPR set to 40 - 45psi to keep the injectors happy then see how the modified afm gos with the tr injectors. all i have to say guys its try on a spare afm if you have it wost thing it can happen is it wont do anything :)

Yes, I understand this, but removing the honeycomb restrictor in the surrounding chambers would result in an increase in unmetered air. The airflow in the side chambers is only theoretically determined by the ECU based on the AFM signal of the centre chamber vortice count. Changing the conditions in the side chambers and not the centre chamber would throw out the A/F ratio equation, and cause leaning out.

I believe the honeycomb mesh simply is there to decrease airflow, resulting in decreased fuel requirements, and thereby reduce fuel consumption. It does not direct air at the columnar vortice creating object. It simply reduces flow.

Carefully removing it altogether would be the best option for performance enthusiasts. Like any mod which would increase power it would also increase fuel consumption.

Sorry mate not buying it. I reckon the honeycomb mesh is there to straighten and regulate the airflow resulting in a decent measurement across a wide range of throughput. Engineers dont have to change what would have been an existing airflow meter when they have full access to the ecu maps and fuelling strategies. Its just an input to them and they would adapt the software around this input and the results it gives them. Mess with this component at your peril.

Yes, I understand this, but removing the honeycomb restrictor in the surrounding chambers would result in an increase in unmetered air. The airflow in the side chambers is only theoretically determined by the ECU based on the AFM signal of the centre chamber vortice count. Changing the conditions in the side chambers and not the centre chamber would throw out the A/F ratio equation, and cause leaning out.

I believe the honeycomb mesh simply is there to decrease airflow, resulting in decreased fuel requirements, and thereby reduce fuel consumption. It does not direct air at the columnar vortice creating object. It simply reduces flow.

Carefully removing it altogether would be the best option for performance enthusiasts. Like any mod which would increase power it would also increase fuel consumption.

Mate you have been told, don't do it.

So I am going to say DO IT, but do it right, if you really want to increase your flow cut the little bugger out, thats right get rid of the whole AFM!

A good $2500 should see an aftermarket chip and a tune that does not require an AFM.

Ahh if he wants to do it let him do it. As they say live and learn lol.


Regards

I believe the honeycomb mesh simply is there to decrease airflow, resulting in decreased fuel requirements, and thereby reduce fuel consumption. It does not direct air at the columnar vortice creating object. It simply reduces flow.

No. No. No. It's there to keep the airflow uniform, so that the measured air in the middle can be multiplied to give an accurate reading of how much air is going into the engine. If you try and fiddle with it you will obviously get wrong readings, and the car won't run properly.

Leave it there, or spend a stupid amount and get a MAFless tune that you probably won't see any gains from on a stock engine anyway.

the best part will be when he's tuned rich, drives the car hard, the extra fuel washes the bores clean of all its oil and due to the fact that mitsy's have short skirt pistons, they chew the shizzat out of his bores and he has to buy a new engine :bowrofl:

trust me, i know from experience.

I am back with results. :D

I took out ALL the honeycomb pieces from the AFM very carefully. I started the car, it idled poorly. I reset the computer, re-started the car and it idled a little bit better. I took it for a drive and it went very well under load, but idling was a problem. When I pulled up at traffic lights the car stalled. Every time I pulled up at lights the idle got a bit better (computer learning?), however it would not idle well enough. So needless to say the honeycomb pieces are back in and I will join the bandwagon in strongly advising against removing the honeycomb in your AFM.

I am back with results. :D

I took out ALL the honeycomb pieces from the AFM very carefully. I started the car, it idled poorly. I reset the computer, re-started the car and it idled a little bit better. I took it for a drive and it went very well under load, but idling was a problem. When I pulled up at traffic lights the car stalled. Every time I pulled up at lights the idle got a bit better (computer learning?), however it would not idle well enough. So needless to say the honeycomb pieces are back in and I will join the bandwagon in strongly advising against removing the honeycomb in your AFM.


Yep, we are all here for a reason, it's good you had the balls to try though.