Im wondering if anyone can give a rough guideline as to when a system would require a bigger alternator than is currently installed in a 3rd Gen magna? - i believe my system is running about 100amps at full load - (but i have a 80 amp fuser as the main fuse near the battery) but i dont get any dimming of the headlights or anything when the stereo is pumpin! - my car is a 2000 KJ Verada Wagon - can anyone give a rough guide as to how much "extra" output the alternator should have compared to the Max current draw of the system? - ie: if system is 70 amps, then and alternator is 85 (15 amps difference) is that enough...or should i be looking at say 20 or 30 amps left over for running of the car??

due to space constraints, I have 4 guage cable from battery to jus behind the dash, split with a Distro Block, with 8 guage down the passenger and middle tunnel to the 2 amps mounted on the rear side trim panels........ive always wondered if i have suffient guage wiring for the sub.......

My system Specs are:

Ralliart Factory Eclipse H/U & 6 stack CD
Audison Lrx 4.5 - 4 Channel Amp at 75W RMS per channel 35 Amp fuse running
Oz Audio 6.5in Splits @50W RMS
DLS964 6x9in 2 way's @ 80W RMS
all speakers on this amp are low passed (cant remember what level)

Audison Lrx 1.1k Mono Block Amp running 2 ohm 800W RMS Max - 75 Amp Fuse running:
DD 2512 12in Sub, 4 ohm dual voice coil - presenting a 2 ohm load on the AMP - 750W RMS


now hows that for a long winded message!!!

you'll be right mate :) im running a 1000W RMS mono and a 500W RMS (at 4ohm) 4 channel to my front stage, drawing around 100-120A for some weird reason, but no alternator upgrade needed, plenty of people run 3000+ W RMS with stock alt :)

Yes in reality with dynamic music, the actual average output ends up being very low.

The stock altenator is plenty for twice what you're running.

Although a battery upgrade might come in handy ;)

Im running around 2kw rms and have plenty of power on tap.

With wiring/audio electrics put your money where it will see most benefit. If you dont have any problems, (dimming lights, flat batteries, problems with power, induced intereference etc then you might not require any upgrade yet)
In this order: (in my humble opinion)

Grounds to amps - SHort and fat making good contact
Battery contacts - keep them clean
Wiring - keep it thick (4ga, 2ga, 0ga etc)
Fuses - ANL fuses have the least resistance)
Grounds in engine bay - upgrade to thicker or more runs of thin gauge
Battery - Optima yellowtop / or equiv drycell with high cca
Altenator

And understand that cosmetics are just that
Capacitors: Audio bling - with no real benefit (at the bottom of the list)

Peace

Tim