So got new tyres put on today, the dude mentioned that my driveshafts and front arm bushes werent looking too good. Knew about the bushes, but driveshafts is news...possibly caused by CV boots not being done 6 months ago??
Anyhoo, i was quoted $280 for 2 driveshafts and $180 for bushes. Reasonable? Not?
Was also quoted around $700 for new rotors all around which i laughed at.

My point is, im a uni student with not a great deal of income. Im gonna get another opinion tomorrow morning, but i wanted to know what people think - what needs doing ASAP, what can wait, are they reasonable prices??

Tell me about it. Fixed the radiator, now i need engine mounts(2) and exhaust.

I need new rear engine mount. How $$ish are they to get fixed by a mechanic?

First up - new engine mounts - PM Megatron in the QLD section, he can get Polyurethane mounts made which will last a bazillion times longer than rubber mounts if not for-ever because oil and heat will cause your rubber mounts to ****e themselves. Will cost in the $200ish mark for a mechanics labor probably, give or take, ask some AMC members to help out or use the search, fairly straight forward to replace.

As for you Lima, drive-shafts are critical because really.. if your car don't drive, then what's the point in having the car??? Sure I've done about 10,000 on a crook CV/drive-shaft combo, but it's not recommended by any means because if your drive-shaft snaps it'll take out pretty much anything around your front suspension = write off for a 2nd gen especially on the drivers side. CV's are just as critical because they let you apply drive whilst turning, if your boot is done and you don't change it you're garunteed to need a new one - and they seize, with no boot they throw the grease and then they can real hot, real DAMN hot, get dirt, rocks, anything in them and imagine driving along and then your front LH or RH side just locks up? you'd either dive into oncoming traffic or a powerpole/parked car/house/dog - whatever, it's ALL bad news.

Brakes, well you don't have to have brains to know if your brakes are gone then you just DON'T drive the car until you can fix them. Simple as that. Sell your n00dz on the interwebs for cash, baggie up dilmah and sell it as dope, whatever, but just DON'T let it go. Brakes are not only critical to you stopping but to you not killing someone elses mother, brother, sister, father, uncle, aunt - and it continues. I had my fronts done with new pads and rotors for $380, sure it was a mobile dude, who get a premium, but basically the car was not going anywhere until I had working brakes.

So I'll put it like this - Your drive-shafts might last a year, they might die tomorrow. Your brakes have a less guessed, narrowing life-span and if they're cactus now, they're just going to get worse. Perhaps check out which end of the car needs it first, get that done and then just don't drive your car more than a few times a week on short trips until you can afford to get the other end done.

Unfortunately two critical parts of your car is dead, and they are fairly high maintenance, in the sense of, let your cv boots go, goodbye at least $150 per side, brakes - well they demand instant action.

Sorry pal, not good news at all. if anything i'd leave the bushes till last but if you bushes go and your arms drop off well.. it's all bad news really. If i was you i would've got 2nd hand 50% tyres and kept the $200+ to fix the brakes, then the cv's and bushes at the same time after i pimped myself to old ladys who had last seen a man in the depression..

So got new tyres put on today, the dude mentioned that my driveshafts and front arm bushes werent looking too good. Knew about the bushes, but driveshafts is news...possibly caused by CV boots not being done 6 months ago??
Anyhoo, i was quoted $280 for 2 driveshafts and $180 for bushes. Reasonable? Not?
Was also quoted around $700 for new rotors all around which i laughed at.

My point is, im a uni student with not a great deal of income. Im gonna get another opinion tomorrow morning, but i wanted to know what people think - what needs doing ASAP, what can wait, are they reasonable prices??

hey mate, do your CVs and bushes first if they NEED to be done. if they can wait, save up and do them when u got the dosh. PM Megatron about rotors. we can them for $190 a pair thru him, thats slotted rotors to, not ur standards... cheap as. $700 is ridiculous for 4 rotors.

in any case, ALWAYS get a second opinion on anything,
cheers :D
big 4

Nick,

This is my daily drive, and there's no other car for me to drive. I drive 45 mins to uni 3 days a week, have no other means of transport to get there. I'll probs have to borrow some cash off dad, get another opinion and get the urgent stuff fixed end of this week.

This couldn't of come at a worse time, i f**cking hate cars.

Nick,

This is my daily drive, and there's no other car for me to drive. I drive 45 mins to uni 3 days a week, have no other means of transport to get there.

.

I suggest this it works for me

sikaflex method for fixing the engine mount needs 2 days to cure

$18 a tube bunnings and does 3 mounts--- smooth2 post forget the knockers it works well

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32670

Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanimus
Tell me about it. Fixed the radiator, now i need engine mounts(2) and exhaust.

Deanimus
if a rear
you left a rear engine mount with me its here if you need it

buffy

Nick,

This is my daily drive, and there's no other car for me to drive. I drive 45 mins to uni 3 days a week, have no other means of transport to get there. I'll probs have to borrow some cash off dad, get another opinion and get the urgent stuff fixed end of this week.

This couldn't of come at a worse time, i f**cking hate cars.

Do your brakes have pedal tramp or are they warped? (when you brakes does the car shake around or does the wheel wobble) if not, get your second mechanic to check all rotors with a micrometer to see how thick they are and compare that to the min thickness stamped on the rotors, should be something like 21.X mm (a guess). Rotors i'd say replace yourself with a mechanically minded friend helping, they're easy as, just take the wheel off, undo the bottom bolt of your caliper, undo the bracket, take the bracket off, swing the caliper up and slide the rotor off, now reverse with new rotor. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK BRAKE PAD THICKNESS, no point in getting new rotors if your pads are going to last another 3 days..

**** happens to all of us, you just gotta bite the bullet and do what it takes.

Now to engine mounts - eh! you can go forever with a busted one, if mine was busted i'd just wait until there was a long weekend or i could score a lift to work/borrow car and get a poly mount from Megatron, at least i know i wont need to change that mount again for a loooooooooooooooooong time, not in 6-12months time. Sikkaflex gets knackered too after a while, it is better than just rubber mounts but its not better than poly.

Nick,

The rotors need machining, but they're too close to min. thickness so i need new ones.
That's sweet, they just shudder a bit when braking from higher speeds. I changed the pads myself about 2 months ago, so they're sweet ;)
Thanks for all the advice, i was talking to tufftr last night so ima get some rotors on the weekend, and have her booked in for driveshafts etc early next week.

One last Q, ran into bursons and asked for rotors, he asked if i had an X on my chassis - i have no clue? Apparently theres two models of rotors, one with X one without.
Any ideas? Ive got a TR GLX (carby)

It'd probably be for single or twin-pot calipers. You'd have the normal single piston calipers.