okay, gonna be a thread hog and make one dedicated to the sedans audio install.

Current system:
TN Elite h/u, with steering wheel controls
Awa 5W paper cone 4" dash fronts
Response 35W coaxials 6" rears

Future system:
h/u, currently unknown, for now will be an iPod.
6" Response Kevlar Splits, front & rear 55W no tweeters for rear
http://jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_9639.jpg
12" Response Carbon Fibre Subwoofer, 300W Dual voice coil
http://jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_8756.jpg
2/ 4x100 Response Full Range Digital Amps, (1 for splits 4x100 @4ohm, 1 for sub 2x300 @4ohm)
http://jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_9409.jpg

To date I have started the process of sound deadening the boot with bitumen absorber material, should be finished on sunday, and have bought the mdf to make the general layout and support for the amps, sub housing and lighting.

it helps if you have all the gear sitting in front of you first, but whatever, good to see you have some kind of plan/outline going on there. best of luck

well, actually all the gear is downstairs, i could take a pic, but didnt, so did linky pics from the website, lol

i have all the wiring lengths, the speakers, the amps, the mdf,

just gotta make it, still deciding if i should go carpet or vinyl

thought i'd add also that the boot install will be designed around a 2 sub design with the 2nd sub absent for now,
if i find i can add more later due to not enough bass, which there never is enough, i can add a 2nd one in series thru a mono block which i'll make a easy removal system to change the sub amp for now.

be interesting so see how it sounds

Good luck with it, let me know how it goes - I'll be installed what I thought would be the second half of my system within the next few weeks, but is actually the second third.

Afterwards I'll be upgrading my fronts to splits and add another amp for speakers in the middle. :)

Should be a nice sounding system! Let me know how the digital amp goes... I haven't heard one in action yet.
The sub is nice, just make sure its tuned right, cause it can make a huge difference (as I found out :P best money I ever spend on the system! lol )

Keep the progress pics coming! :)

not so much of an update as a change of mind plan.
there will now be 2 12" carbon fibre subs, powered in series from an class D mono block, output rating of 820wrms @ 1ohm.

This should deafen anyone in the car, and the car next to me, and the houses around...:nuts:
http://jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_8745.jpg

ah subs will prob have to be in parralell to get 1 ohm. are the subs duel voice coil or single. what is the impedance of the sub or coils

ah subs will prob have to be in parallel to get 1 ohm. are the subs duel voice coil or single. what is the impedance of the sub or coils

They are DVC at 4 ohms per VC. So you would need to parallel each VC and then each sub to get 1 ohm. Rated at 300Wrms (150W per VC)

Make sure your sub is connected in phase with the rear speakers - as I discovered the hard way (due to wiring listed in the manual wrong), when they are out of phase you can get incredibly strange sounding effects... I had this massive sound hole where the rear speakers and sub cancelled each other out at some frequencies, and at others had really exaggerated peaks! Was really annoying.

Also I'm curious what the sound deadening stuff might do to the sound. I was thinking of putting some in mine to "blend" the sound in a bit more with the rear speakers.

I'd like to see how you get the speakers in the front... I've looked at putting some Re-sponse splits in the front doors, but couldn't find a good way of protecting the wires going from the door into the car frame, and couldn't work out how I might go about sealing the doors better sound-wise. The rears I already have some Pioneer TS-E1695's in, except that everybody who sits in the back gets deafened, while I can hardly hear them from the front lol. If you find a good way to work those problems out, I'd really like to know! :)

ok, the 800W amp has been scrapped
was ridiculous when I did all the calculations.

so, i'm back to the 4x100 bridged to one 12"
should sound alot nicer in this fashion I believe.

essentially yeah as described above its a dual voice coil, 4ohm per coil, 150w per coil side. total 300W
the amp will be bridged with each channel putting out 380wrms to each coil. over driven, but it won't be cranked right up.

as for the front splits, I will be mounting the crossover units in the boot with seperate wire run to the front for the tweeters and woofer, the woofer will be in the door, and the tweeter where the dash 4" once was.

as for sound deadening the doors, will be using the bitumen sound absorber on the outer sheel within the door structure itself, as well as sealing over the internal shell gaps with material sound absorber between the door trims.

friend did this with the same speakers in his legacy, and whilst its abit overkill, makes for some pretty good front end bass and a nice solid sounding door to close.

whilst this project will add a crud load of weight to the car, the engine itself won't be staying stock for long with plans in store for the replacement block soon to go in.

btw: in regards to putting wire thru the door into the cabin, if u have ability to thread a single 2 strand wire thru the existing loom tube, do that, however in the unlikely even you cant, more than so, you can simply tape it to the existing tube, and then use a small amount of either spiral bind or loom tube over the top of the existing tube, also now covering the speaker wire.

Okay, bit of an update post, not so much progress as a post, but never the less.

have now made patch leads for the 3rd/4th inputs on the amps for both of them so I can have cable lay at a minimum and make the whole install look alot more nicer and pro.

After speaking with a guy at work he recomended seeing as I will be sound deadening the boot, to also perhaps look into sound deadening the entire interior floor, and whilst i'm not a big fan of the thought seeing it is alot of work, it is a good idea, so currently in a bind as to whether I should or not..

thoughts anyone?
Just remember weight is not an issue, but whether the point of doing it will be valid enough to outweigh the time, effort and overall effect of the project.

have begun removing the interior in an effort to run power cables, rca leads, still tossing up whether to also make these myself like my patch leads, and also still researching a good headunit.

My peer thru hole in the back seat will infact be boxed up with override switches to shut off amps, hole a distribution block for power with secondary fuses, and also to show a few vu meters, current draw meters and a volt meter, a lil overkill, excessive and pointless, but it's either do something bizarre with it, or simply block the port hole and it simply be a blank board.

lil insight the rca patch leads are infact rg59 coax with compression crimp rca connectors on em, pretty much guaranteed these cables will last even with moisture and all seeing as there designed to be used externally in harsh conditions.

Not to put a dampener on anything, but you wont be able to make as good quality RCAs as what you can buy. Power and speaker cables are fine, but the RCAs you can buy are shielded etcetc.

Not to put a dampener on anything, but you wont be able to make as good quality RCAs as what you can buy. Power and speaker cables are fine, but the RCAs you can buy are shielded etcetc.
true this, main reason I did my own are for length reasons, I don't want cable lying around everywhere, or have to be bundled up or tied back or whatever, just personal touch mainly.

p.s. just to clarrify these leads are not to bridge channels, as channels 3 and 4 like shown in the picture, these are to link the 2 amps together, the amps 4 channels like most will feed off the primary channel inputs.
just incase you were wondering from the pic, had a few remarks, so thought i'd clarrify. only did link pic to show the leads.

HAHAHAHA, wow

Am I ever slow, mostly lazy.
I have been making progress though since april,
I have stripped the car,
fish oiled and tar painted the entire interior,
sound deadend the entire floor and doors,
reassembled the interior, as well as customised the centre console to accept the new pioneer headunit.
Still haven't done the speakers in the doors yet, still have to work on a little bad magna design with the doors in allowing water inbetween the trims and metal skin, plus hole cutting in good doors and door trims is never fun.

Now, the reason I post up, was to show my lovely small child I have stashed away in the trunk..... sorry, I meant large sub box and dual 12s.
see below for less talk, more show.

Currently:
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/a.jpg

With Sub box:
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/b.jpg

Another angle:
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/c.jpg

Looky looky:
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/d.jpg

If you wish to see the box out of the car, and just how much room is behind the box when its in there check the pics below.
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/1.jpg
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/2.jpg
http://cars.stargaters.com/subs/3.jpg

The story being, my original intention was a single 12" neatly mounted where the spare tire house is, but due to laziness and the fact it would be trial and error, it never got done. Found this, measured my clearance, and changed tack.
Now replacing one of my amps with a 1000W mono block to power these 2 puppiers.
Should be good.

P.S. I know the boot sound deadening looks bad, but its simply not finished, nor is it easy to do.

the sound deadening looks pretty good as long as you get all the bubbles out of it and it isnt peeling to the craphouse its pretty good. Anyways its not as if you will see it or show it off heaps :)

Looking good :)

Im in the process of finishing my audio install too. You dont see alot of 1st gen installs.

Looking good :)

Im in the process of finishing my audio install too. You dont see alot of 1st gen installs.
That's true, not to the level I'm going at either, like yeah, anyone can stick in a single box and have empty air around it, but I wanted to make the boot like it was made around the audio gear if you get me.
Beside the sub box where it is currently empty space is going to be 2 'cupboards' basically it will look like carpet right across, but I'm gonna put in 2 push to open cupboards and store on one side a tire puncture repair kit, and the other a fire extenguisher.
Still deciding if i make a false floor and mount the amps on the floor, or have the amps standing on end at either side of the cars boot.

all my electric stuff will go behind the sub box, cap, distribution block, fuse panel and equaliser, just to keep the boot free to store atleast my snow boarding stuff when its winter.

looks good when do you reckon you will have it all done

12th of never.

see when the thread started? lol

It's annoying, I've one day a week to work on it, and not always, plus I have 3 other cars to maintain and get things done on, so, doesn't make the process quick.