A few questions...

Did you sound deaden your actual door trim? (plastic door cover) Following the Sound Deading guide on CAA, I've done my inner and outer door skins with 1 layer of dynamat. Sealed up access holes with (4mm? MDF) covered with dynamat aswell. Got an 18mm MDF baffle for woofer and crossover. (not sure if the baffle is completely sealed against the inner door skin, what's best to use to seal it up?) There is an acoustic tile directly behind the woofer aswell attached to the outer door skin.

Anyway after all this work, my doors still sound like Scheiße. :disgusted I can hear and feel the driver's door power window switches rattling, among other things. Would coating the underside of the window switch with dynamat be of any benefit? I'm considering using spray on sound deadener and coating the inside of my door trims a few times. Maybe the A & B pillar covers and rear door trims aswell. I'm a spray painter by trade so getting hold of some decent spray on stuff shouldn't be a difficult task. Any recommendations on a quality product to use? I've heard of SoundOff, can this be sprayed on? Got plenty of K&N Body Deadener/Stone Guard at work. Would this stuff work just as effectively? Wrapping the loose cables and lock rods in foam or something could help aswell I guess. I have seen door installs with some sort of fluffy white material (dacron?) wedged between the door trim and inner door skin. Worth the effort? Wondering also if there is any decent improvement using angled baffles? Another problem bothering me is the amount of water getting inside the door and into my woofers. I can't use the original covers as they are too small. What do other people do to improvise? I can see there is not a lot of room between the speaker magnet and the window when fully wound down.

Here is my setup..

Alpine CDA-9857 MP3/CD Receiver
Alpine Type-X SPX-177R 6.5" splits - 75wrms
Alpine Type-R SWR-1222d 12" Subwoofer - 500wrms
Alpine V12 MRV-F545 4 Channel Amplifier - 2x125wrms (splits) 1x600wrms (sub)
Amp crossover settings - Front stage 80hz+\Sub 80hz-
Had the gains on the amp adjusted by pro at Northfield Moorooka.

Have also been playing around with the BassEngine settings on the HU. Although I don't completely understand how it works, I have been able to clean the sound up a bit by making some adjustments there. I have BBE turned off.

I'm lost for ideas on how to fix this annoying problem. :rant:

Maybe...

- The woofers are overpowered or aren't sealed properly and distorting on low frequencies?
- The amp's crossover settings are incorrect? (80hz too low for splits?)
- Go crazy with the sound deadening? (door trim, wires, lock rods, sealing, dacron?)
- Need more expensive splits that can handle more power?

Anyone able to give me some solutions\advice? It is driving me nuts. :nuts: I like my sound clean.

On another note, I successfully removed and replaced my power window regulator without damaging\losing any of my dynamat! Have plenty extra anyway thanks to Megatron. Just dunno where to put it! Scratched the Scheiße out of my window tint though getting the glass out. :redface: Lucky it's cheap to get re-tinted.

Hrmm, I've got dynamat on the actual doors, but not on the trim. On the trim i've got the spray on stuff, and mine seems to sound ok. although i do have to take off my trims and tighten all the screws every few weeks, everything kinda gets rattled apart..

Wow I think there are like 40 questions in there...

Umm

Ok Soundoff yes it is awesome, yes it can be sprayed. I just use a brush. I deaden all the installs I do now with sound off on the back of the trim, makes it solid as a rock. Need to get into all the little areas though.

Lock rods etc, wrap them in blu tack (like heaps of blutack) then in electrical tape to keep them clean.

It is a never ending battle but you can get there, i have gone to town on my door and am fairly happy with them now.

With the water, depending on how big ur drivers are, glue a piece of pvc pipe big enough to go around the whole speaker to the baffle (or speaker itself from the rear) does the trick, although most car audio speakers are designed to get wet so shouldnt be a prob.

Angled baffles help a bit, the door design sucks for getting midrange freqs through to the cabin (at least on the older 3rd gens where the speaker grille was at the bottom of the door compared to the middle). I made some angled baffles a while back when i was running 6" mids.

Sealing up the baffle and the door - try using closed cell foam - from bunnings for sealing door drafts etc. Also use this b/w ur speaker and the baffle (use proper speaker tape here if possible)


80 hz isnt too low for splits, depending on how loud u want them u can get most good 6" down to 50hz for moderate listening levels.

Peace

Tim

edit: what slope db/oct cutoff is everything running at?

ive been wanting to deaden my skins for a while now.. it does indeed improve the sound/rattles. and an 80hz cross is fine with type-x splits. could lower it down to 60hz if you felt like it.. my 8" mids are at 62hz on a 12dB slope, and my door rattles are driving me insane.

Firstly, thanks for your feedback. There are a few things I'm unclear on though...



1 - Sealing up the baffle and the door - try using closed cell foam - from bunnings for sealing door drafts etc. Also use this b/w ur speaker and the baffle (use proper speaker tape here if possible)

2 - what slope db/oct cutoff is everything running at?

Number 1, I'm not sure what you mean here. Making an angled baffle to place the woofer up against the speaker grill of the door trim with cell foam between the two? Also I don't get what you are trying to say with the tape. b/w?

Number 2, I'm not sure really. How can I find out? I don't think my headunit is capable of adjusting those sort of things. Unless you adjust them from the amp? Haven't really fiddled with the amp in a while. (No motovation to climb into my dark, uncomfortable boot with a miniature allen key and spend 15 minutes trying to get the amp cover off.) A good bloke at Northfield Car Sound Moorooka adjusted the amp for me free of charge and tested out the system when I first installed it. Haven't touched the amp since.

Bear in mind this is my first install. I'm a newbie. Please go easy on me. I'm slowly learning different things. CAA forums have helped me a lot. I'm just aiming at a decent novice SQ system.

Keep the replies coming.

Cheers.

Anyone?