Hi,

Here's a review of oils done some time last year by Street Commodores, they tested most popular oils. So i apologise in advance if it's a repost but anyway it's useful.

There's been alot of discussion lately about what oils to use/ which is best etc etc. and i think by some of the results, you'll be suprised. Going by that test the valvoline seems the best of the cheaper oils.

Maybe you might want to sticky it.

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p1.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p2.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p3.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p4.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p5.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p6.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p7.jpg

http://users.chariot.net.au/~magnavrx/Oil%20Test%20p8.jpg

wow some surprizing results there. now i wish they did it again now and on the oil i use to see how that holds up. i use castrol gtx3 , would be good to see how that compares to the others. im due for an oil change soon and was thinking of going synthetic but im still unsure. maybe i'll just keep using the same oil i've been using since owning the magna.

Very interesting.

Thanks for the post.

The Penrite came out on top, and even with the semi blend HPR5 it kicked butt. The semi blend HPR5 if you look through the article definately came out with the best performance for price.

I guess there will be a few less people recommending Motul and Redline now...!

Hmm, that's a bit of an eye opener..i just changed my oil and threw some magnatec in the other day...might go looking for some Penrite next time.

Thanks for that post, is good to know that penrite are supporting street commodores...
maybe amc should do a similar test so we can get some financial backing from a big oil brand...

if you trust everyone of these rating things its up to you.

I believe go with what you prefer, what feels better to you as really its your choice.
how you drive your car has much more effect on how it performs then what oil you use.

Nice read, there are more than meets the eye i say. As you may protect the engine but you also compromise fuel economy. Some of these branded oil just trying to do what they feel best for different Engines. Which was why they have "What is the best type of oil recommendation for your car". As some looking for more power then certain grades tend to out perform the other. When it comes to fuel economy the other may prove better.

Still a very good read. I like it.
Recommend sticky as too many people have been asking about oil types, I be happy to supply the oil chart for all magnas again if this is stickied.

that is interesting as I just recently posted in another thread that i used Penrite HPR 10 over normally using Shell helix plus and found I have engine rattle i didn't use to have after changing to new cams....:confused:

Thanks for the scans. Very very useful. I guess its the $75 Penrite from now on :)

Penrite?

Wasnt the Valvoline the star "bang for your buck" oil!

Yeah, going by what was there, the Valvoline was the best bang for your buck oil. Then the Penrite Synthetic 5 fared very well, and best of all was obviously royal purple.

very interesting...

But in the end not really worth the paper its written on. It's measuring one small property of oil at very benign temperatures.

The 'winners' here may be the losers when compared in real world engine conditions.

Very interesting reading, I'v done a fair bit of research on API and SAE ratings over the past months. API website http://www.api.org gives an outline as to what all the letters and numbers mean on oil bottles, also the Valvoline website has a good page to read at http://www.valvoline.com.au/inserts/techshow.cfm?techtalkid=22 but this site seems to be down right now. I belive a large number of the public buy oil on media advertising alone, if a brand has believable adverts and packaging that looks modern and higher performing than others, then it is. Only takes seconds to read the API rating and if you know what to look for it's easy. In mineral oils look for the highest rating.

API- S*/C* S- for standard test on petrol/gas engines
C- for commercial test on diesel engines.

e.g API SJ/CF means its passed standard at a J rating and commercial at a F rating
(primeraly for petrol engines and can be used it diesel engines 4x4 or
light trucks)
API SM means its passed standard test at a M rating currently the highest rating.
( for pertol engines only)
API CJ means its passed commercial tests at a J rating currently the highest rating.
(for diesel engines only light trucks, heavy trucks, earthmoving)

Hope all this typing makes it a bit clearer for at least one person.
Cheers Paul...

One last thing, I think it's also good pracitice to stick to one brand of oil because different brands use different additives (contamination). On an oil change not all oil is drained there is always a little left behind. If you do oil flushes then you still leave a little oil and oil flush in your engine, more contamination.

Just my thoughts.

Thanks for the scans. Very very useful. I guess its the $75 Penrite from now on :)

:stoopid: if only it was a lil thicker

:stoopid: if only it was a lil thicker

In that case you can use the Penrite Sin Engine Oil 10, as opposed to the 5 they tested. There's also a 0, 15, and 25 as well!

It would have been interesting if they tested Sin 0, although that would only be useful from a brand new car I guess... (in a test like they did it would supposedly outperform the Sin 5).

http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=438&nav_cat_id=178&nav_top_id=55

In that case you can use the Penrite Sin Engine Oil 10, as opposed to the 5 they tested. There's also a 0, 15, and 25 as well!

It would have been interesting if they tested Sin 0, although that would only be useful from a brand new car I guess... (in a test like they did it would supposedly outperform the Sin 5).

http://www.penrite.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=438&nav_cat_id=178&nav_top_id=55

If you read the handbook, 3rd Gens will run on 5W30, which is actually the factory fill.

So I cant see a major issue with 5W60 but I guess ill wait and see what responses I get from this post :)

I run Castrol Edge 5W30 without an issue.

If you read the handbook, 3rd Gens will run on 5W30, which is actually the factory fill.

So I cant see a major issue with 5W60 but I guess ill wait and see what responses I get from this post :)

I run Castrol Edge 5W30 without an issue.

I looked this up in my TJ Manual, you can use 5W-30 so long as the climate ranges from -40C to 10C. Typical aust weather would be -15C to 50C in most areas therefore using 15W-40 or 15W-50. OR -10C to 50C using 20W-40 or 20W-50 going by TJ/KJ manual
I use 15W-40

5W-30 factory fill = running in oil???

BULL**** BULL**** BULL**** !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK now thats out of my system, that was in an old issue of street machine and there is now a court case as the oils tested were tested on a grease testing machine, if you read the next issue you will find a small notice that has a full apology in regards to all the oil companies for the incorrect testing procedures, royal purple will be lucky to still be around as all the other oil companies are sueing them,

now everyone can feel free to go off this advice, but hey i know i wouldn't use some of the oils that topped there list if ya paid me,

BULL**** BULL**** BULL**** !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK now thats out of my system, that was in an old issue of street machine and there is now a court case as the oils tested were tested on a grease testing machine, if you read the next issue you will find a small notice that has a full apology in regards to all the oil companies for the incorrect testing procedures, royal purple will be lucky to still be around as all the other oil companies are sueing them,

now everyone can feel free to go off this advice, but hey i know i wouldn't use some of the oils that topped there list if ya paid me,



Now i have to go return my bottles of royal purple... :cry:

BULL**** BULL**** BULL**** !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK now thats out of my system, that was in an old issue of street machine and there is now a court case as the oils tested were tested on a grease testing machine, if you read the next issue you will find a small notice that has a full apology in regards to all the oil companies for the incorrect testing procedures, royal purple will be lucky to still be around as all the other oil companies are sueing them,

now everyone can feel free to go off this advice, but hey i know i wouldn't use some of the oils that topped there list if ya paid me,

Which oil would you use then?

Just out of curiousity. :)

Which oil would you use then?

Just out of curiousity. :)

The ones Mr Team Autobarn needs to sell that month to move old stock :P

The ones Mr Team Autobarn needs to sell that month to move old stock :P


well if that is what you would like to think go ahead, oil has a good enough turn over plus what would i get out of selling a certain oil?? nothing at all so i guess ummm your wrong :D


i use an oil that i don't see the need to disclose,

p.s. just to add almost every oil there is stocked by autObarn including royal purple, just so everyone knows i'm not bagging anyone elses product

I believe go with what you prefer, what feels better to you as really its your choice.

That's how I see it.... my old man's used Mobil 1 for years, and he doesn't use anything else (cept in our ****box Festiva when we had it), so I guess I'll stay the same. He had something go wrong with his Walkinshaw Commodore at ~20k kms or so, I forget exactly what went wrong, but he is confident that if he wasn't using Mobil 1 oil, the engine would have needed a complete rebuild.

only ever used BP Visco 3000 !!

going by the specs sprintex want me to use there isnt much around that the auto stores stock...

but i found it funny that i managed to get 1L of a fully synth 5w40 from a bp servo a few $$$ cheaper than at either supercheap and autobarn :nuts:

im using shell atm the same as o.e ferrari spec (proably why my car is so solw lol)

but my old man who builds harley engines only used penrite/penzoil

Olis aint olis

going by the specs sprintex want me to use there isnt much around that the auto stores stock...

but i found it funny that i managed to get 1L of a fully synth 5w40 from a bp servo a few $$$ cheaper than at either supercheap and autobarn :nuts:

im using shell atm the same as o.e ferrari spec (proably why my car is so solw lol)

but my old man who builds harley engines only used penrite/penzoil

Olis aint olis

Penrite and Penzoil are two completely different brands! I guess you mean Penrite or Penzoil, and not penrite/penzoil inferring that they're the same... lol!

Penrite and Penzoil are two completely different brands! I guess you mean Penrite or Penzoil, and not penrite/penzoil inferring that they're the same... lol!

thats it, i cant remember which one!

but when it comes to his harleys it's all the best gear... and his car... pfft that verada is running some old olive oil from the frying pan

royal purple will be lucky to still be around as all the other oil companies are sueing them,


Why are they suing RP when it was the Magazines fault ?

Well being a total layman, from what I can see the oil companies just don't like to be put under the microscope, let them jump up and down all they want, until there's another independant test to prove otherwise I'm sure Valvoline, RP51 & Penrite Synth are going to be doing some good business.

Actually if there's is another test out there to show what different oil brands can do under different conditions then I'm sure we'd all love to see it. Although I have a sneeky suspision that oil companies are watching this very closely and are standing at the ready to kick you in the balls if you try.

Also I agree with Gemini I can't see how RP can be sued when they had nothing to do with the tests. I'm confused about that one.

Hi all I had a read through this thread and decided to go with Penrite synthetic oil as it was in the top three or four oils, well after i had my service done three weeks ago i have been very impressed with it, i have a 2000 TJ VR-X with 180,000km's on the clock and before the service it had a lot of tappet noise when you started it cold which would go away after about 10 or15 mins, now it's almost completely gone except on really cold morn's ,and the engine fells better as well (i know probably just in my head) it cost's around $80 but worth it in the end IMO.:D

*merged last post* and on the topic of threadmining... this one is fine to go in here... :) Under a month is fine in my books...

Hi all and I will proberly get shot down for my 2 cents worth. Generally speaking, everybody will have there own favorite oil, for its durability, price and length of service. If it is a dearer type of oil, then you would expect better performance from it. My fav. a.t.m. is mobil 1, circulating for 20,000kms of which it uses about 1/2 liter per 10000k. A 5 lt bottle gives enough for an oil change and than the top up at 10000kms. I have no rattles or noisey lifters on start up on an engine that has done 110000kms. Like I said my 2 cents worth.

Hi all and I will proberly get shot down for my 2 cents worth. Generally speaking, everybody will have there own favorite oil, for its durability, price and length of service. If it is a dearer type of oil, then you would expect better performance from it. My fav. a.t.m. is mobil 1, circulating for 20,000kms of which it uses about 1/2 liter per 10000k. A 5 lt bottle gives enough for an oil change and than the top up at 10000kms. I have no rattles or noisey lifters on start up on an engine that has done 110000kms. Like I said my 2 cents worth.


id hate to be your motor
oil doesnt last 20000km it looses its cleaning ability and will sludge up.
motors with the right oil and the regular servicing should not use any oil at all

Hi all and I will proberly get shot down for my 2 cents worth. Generally speaking, everybody will have there own favorite oil, for its durability, price and length of service. If it is a dearer type of oil, then you would expect better performance from it. My fav. a.t.m. is mobil 1, circulating for 20,000kms of which it uses about 1/2 liter per 10000k. A 5 lt bottle gives enough for an oil change and than the top up at 10000kms. I have no rattles or noisey lifters on start up on an engine that has done 110000kms. Like I said my 2 cents worth.

Not trying to "shoot you down" or anything, but I'd recommend you consider switching to a less expensive oil (one which has a viscosity rating closer to what the handbook recommends), and change it more frequently.

You'll find most of us here will generally do an oil change at every 7,500km's (half the interval recommended in the handbook), and some change every 5,000km's. It also depends on how much use the car gets. For instance if it is taking you 2 years to get to 20,000km's, that oil is going to be way past being effective. I've always been of the opinion that you should change your engine oil at least every 12 months regardless of km's.

Also - regardless of service history (unless it was non existent), I would be extremely worried if a modern engine with 110000km's had rattles or noisey lifters.

But like you said, that's your 2c worth, and each to their own right.

Half a litre every 10,000k's sounds like a lot.
Mine burns nothing (as far as I can tell) when I change it.
I change mine every 5000k's which may sound excessive but it takes me about 9 months to drive that much.

Half a litre every 10,000k's sounds like a lot.
Mine burns nothing (as far as I can tell) when I change it.
I change mine every 5000k's which may sound excessive but it takes me about 9 months to drive that much.

Sounds like an ecotec 3.8L engine. I have to add 0.5L-1L to my gf's VX commondore b/n oil changes. my TJ doesn't need a drop b/n changes.

very interesting...

But in the end not really worth the paper its written on. It's measuring one small property of oil at very benign temperatures.

The 'winners' here may be the losers when compared in real world engine conditions.
Yep, what he said.

I think I should post a new Item: "What's the best oil and best tyres" - and see this Forum blow up.... :D

BTW, just chaged the oil to my Volvo (my train-station-only car). Previous change was almost 2 yrs ago and did some 4500 km with that lot of oil. Soo, hmmm, wonder what kind of conclusion (apart from me being lazy) can we come up with? Using Shell Helix, the yellow normal cheap can. :doubt:

Actually if there's is another test out there to show what different oil brands can do under different conditions then I'm sure we'd all love to see it.
.

lol Ok here is link :P
http://www.royalpurple.com/arta/arta.html

id hate to be your motor
oil doesnt last 20000km it looses its cleaning ability and will sludge up.
motors with the right oil and the regular servicing should not use any oil at all

The guys at my local mobil depot vow and declare that mobil 1 is actually good for 40thou. It being a fully synthetic oil, aparantly doesnt break down with temperature or time. I do enough trips (Im in the country), to make sure that all contaminants are evaporated out leaving only oil in the system. Most motors should use some oil, in city cars this is often replaced by condensation and excess fuel deposits, giving the appearance of never using oil and then on a trip will suddenly use a lot as it evaporates the condensation and fuel deposits. To me 1/2 lt in 10000 is not excessive, but signs of an engine in ok cond. Now the starwagon that I have, it seems to use 1 lt in about 2500kms, doesnt blow smoke and doesnt leak oil. Im running a standard type of oil in that (15-40 I think) which I change at either 5000 or 10000 depending on what its been driven at. Next oil change will proberly use mobil 1 in it as well.
The other thing I want to mention is that I used to run castrol magnatec in my van, and was away in it once, when the oil top up light came on and I couldnt find a servo that sold magnatec to top up with, where with mobil, you could easily find a mobil servo and get the mobil oil of choice.
Suppose Im up to 4cents worth now, and this is what works for me. Just letting others know what I do. I should point out that 20,0000km oil changes should not be done with standard/mineral based oils as they do tend to break down with time. Im a mechanic by trade, mobil convinced me (I trust our local man), so that I have more time to take kids here there and everywhere that they seem to need to go.

Fully synth or not - 20,000 kms is FAR too long. 10,000 is more than enough. I change mine every 7,500 when possible.

Half a litre every 10,000k's sounds like a lot.
Mine burns nothing (as far as I can tell) when I change it.
I change mine every 5000k's which may sound excessive but it takes me about 9 months to drive that much.

:stoopid: mine burns no oil and is 17 years old:D i do mine at 5000 as well. i was using castrol gtx 3 for awhile but now have started to use valvoline (sp?) , the difference is qutie noticable. well after a year on castrol then switching to valvoline , the engine dosen't try so hard to start up. ofcourse it will start better with any new oil but im talking at the time of an oil change is due. 20 000klms your nuts i do all my cars at 5000 , whats 40 bucks every 5000 :P not much for a good running engine no matter the car or age.

As far as I know, synthetic oils do last a long time. 20,000kms and the oil itself would be fine, but it's all the other crap stuck it in that can damage the engine.
I've read of some people using exotic oils that last 50-60,000kms but they have special filters.
I'd rather stick to my regular synthetics and change more often.