Hey all

Just got my car back from Ultra Tune. I sent it there to get it tuned and they said that there is not much a tuning can do so they did the following:

Cleaned throttle body and rest tune
changed throttle body gasket
changed air filter
changed fuel filter - I had that replace at 105,000kms and they said that it was dirty.

My car used to idle at around 700-800. Now it idles at 1000-1200 rpm. The needle always moves up and down within that range and it never used to do that before.

Any suggestions!!

Cheers

So they couldnt give you a reason why its idling like that. They changed all those bits and pieces to no avail. Sounds like they had no idea.
Did it idle correctly before it went to Ultra Tune? 700-800rpm range?
If it did previously and now it doesnt there may be a vacume leak in the throttle body area.
Take it back get them to sort it or get your moneys back.

Regards

When i took it there. The idling was not the problem I just wanted to get a tune(felt a bit rough but most likely i was paranoid). But then they told me that there is not much to tune for this car so they suggested that it might be rough because the throttle body was dirty.

So i agreed to have the TB checked. And since it came back it was idling at 1000rpm. The car was revving itself to 1100. I just noticed the needle rising and fallinf bu 100-200rpm.

But i will give them a call.

Could it be the ISC ?

Cheers

Is it idling this high on start? Cause if so, it's pretty normal. My car idles at 1400rpm when you first turn it over. Once it's been in gear though, it drops to about 1000rpm in neutral.

ok. But i problem is why does the needle move up and now everytime. it moves by 200rpm so from 900rpm to 1100rpm, drops back to 900rpm and then back to 1100 rpm and so on. It continues like that when its in neutral (manual)

ok. But i problem is why does the needle move up and now everytime. it moves by 200rpm so from 900rpm to 1100rpm, drops back to 900rpm and then back to 1100 rpm and so on. It continues like that when its in neutral (manual)

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's normal. Does it take a little while (approx 5-10 seconds) for it to switch between them? Cause if so I think its to stop the engine from stalling. Something makes the engine slow down slightly every revolution under 1000rpm. Thus, the ECU opens up for a while to stop it from dying a slow death. Then it settles back down again.

But I'm not too sure sorry.

i think its normal ay. mine idles at 1200rpm wen cold but wen it warms up it can be from 800 to 1000 rpm, it changes all the time

ok ok. You still are not getting my point. My needles moves up and down all the time when it idles. Moving to and from a certain rpm.

The cold part i understand. I know when a car is cold it idles at a higher rpm and then reduces to a certain FIXED level. Mine is never fixed. Its always moving back and forth, cold, warm, hot.

Here is a better description

Before Ultra Tune:

Cold: Idles at 1500rpm then when engine is warmed up, idles at 800rpm and stays at 800rpm for all the time. Never increases. Needle on the tacho stays at 800rpm never decreases or increases.

After:

Cold: Idles at 1500rpm
Warmed up: Idles at 900rpm and then increases to 1100rpm. When it reaches 1100rpm falls to 900rpm. When it reaches 900rpm , it increases to 1100 rpm and it continues like this all the time. Its 1 second to increase and 1 second to decrease. So in 1 minute the needle is moving about 30 times between 900rpm to 1000rpm


The idle speed is not the problem here because you can adjust the idle range.

The problem is the needle is moving forward and backwards all the time.

I don't think this is normal, because:

1. It never did this before
2. I had 2 magnas, never happened.

Re-check the seal on the TB and gasket, the intake hose over the TB and the vac line at the front of the intake hose. There is absolutely NO REASON AT ALL for replacing a TB gasket unless it has been marked. The OEM gasket it metal, robust and reusable. The replacement gasket sets are typically cardboard-based :shock: and don't tend to seal as awesomely as they should even with an ACL stamp on it. The face on the TB and plenum should be inspected for marks too. Check the vac line on the back of the plenum is intact and the clamp on correctly.

They may have squirted some upper cylinder head cleaner etc thru your TB or an oil additive, chances are that some crud has lodged itself in your PCV valve. Remove it carefully and clean it out with kero, cotton bud and a nail head to scrap the tough stuff of.

To be tricky they may have tried to open the TB backstop up to let more air in for a higher idle - and haven't adjusted the TPS to suit. Check the backstop screw and the TPS screw for a break in the white paint that the factory puts on them. If the paint is displaced then they're humped with them.

Hope that helps you track it down. :cool:

Or just take it back and tell them to sort it. After all you did pay for the work.

Regards

My TF Idols at 8/900 while in park.
Driving down a hill when the ignition cuts out and my breaks went. The handbreak alone wasnt enough to stop me so i had to slam it into park while moving and turn the engine over to get the breaks back. Next time i started my car it was idoling eraticly between 1000 and 1200.

Acording to my mechanic (wich was ultratune at the time) Id some how managed to gut my Idol speed motor during the commotion. I dont know much about that part of the car but the only work done on it while it was at ultra was to have the ISM replaced. The problem disapeared and has not happened since.

Maybe have that looked at, hope it helps.

problem solved. when cleaning the TB and replacing the gasket, the ecu needs to be reset. car is fine now. thanks to all those that posted.

cheers