hey guys, as u can probly tell. my check engine light is coming on and off.
happens when the car is relatively cold and i start her up. wheni get going the light pops on and the symptoms are:
Less power
feels like clutch is slipping even tho it isnt (new clutch fitted 5000k ago)
obviouly lowered economy.
exhaust sounds beefier lol

recently my dizzy carked it. put a TP dizzy on til i got a new one and the problems started with the TP dizzy. put the new dizzy in correctly and problems persist.

gonna reset the ecu tomorrow n see how that goes.
any ideas?

cheers,
big 4

Mine comes on for like 2-3 seconds when I first start the car but from what I know its normal. I doubt its the warning thats affecting your driving, its the problem that it has detected, I would get it checked out.

Mine comes on for like 2-3 seconds when I first start the car but from what I know its normal. I doubt its the warning thats affecting your driving, its the problem that it has detected, I would get it checked out.

when u start the car, the ecu checks the engine so the light comes on for a few seconds as you said.

the warning light isnt affecting the driving, its telling me somethings wrong. so im asking if anyone has any idea concerning the symptoms :D

You can "read" your ECU error logs but it's like morse code, take it to mitsu or any half credible mechanic and ask to have the log checked and cleared, that should give you a problem, solution and finally, closure.

That sounds like it may be your airflow sensor. When I left mine unplugged, it sounded like a V8, hardly moved, and the ECU kicked a code out immediately.

That sounds like it may be your airflow sensor. When I left mine unplugged, it sounded like a V8, hardly moved, and the ECU kicked a code out immediately.

yeah i thought that too but it only started when we played around with the dizzy...

Perhaps fried the AFM some how? no AFM = bad news, could run super rich OR super lean, I assume it has a 'Mayday' code in there to richen it like all hell but still, not good news.

Maybe AJ will let you borrow his spare AFM that is still behind my drivers seat :redface:

When you put the dissy in, did you get the gear teeth lined up correctly with the camshaft? A single tooth out will make a significant difference, and it's not hard to get wrong!

When you put the dissy in, did you get the gear teeth lined up correctly with the camshaft? A single tooth out will make a significant difference, and it's not hard to get wrong!

yeh we got it in perfect, although the TP dizzy was out by one tooth i think. :redface:

when u start the car, the ecu checks the engine so the light comes on for a few seconds as you said.

the warning light isnt affecting the driving, its telling me somethings wrong. so im asking if anyone has any idea concerning the symptoms :D

check engine light must be the oil getting up to the engine before its cold

as long as the light goes out thats ok or we better check the sensor for that warning light it may be faulty

yes people I changed a TP dissy into a TS to keep it on the road

rotor button didnt sit like the TR one should

once the new TR dissy was refitted no problem

I did do it a night and the timing pully didnt have its timing line maked with white paint :rant:
and no timing light to hand

cog and dissy of the tp was out but the car still did a 16.719 down the quarter mile
with that TP dissy in it

so it will do better next time

Are their any higher performance distributors available for magnas so we can run bigger and colder plugs? (fatter sparks)??

Are their any higher performance distributors available for magnas so we can run bigger and colder plugs? (fatter sparks)??

definately, money is the key...

Are their any higher performance distributors available for magnas so we can run bigger and colder plugs? (fatter sparks)??

definately, money is the key...

Are their any higher performance distributors available for magnas so we can run bigger and colder plugs? (fatter sparks)??

I did a quick bit of googling and found none. and theres none for the DOHC of course cause tehre coil pack...

Given the way the 2.6 electronics work, I can't see why you couldn't use the stock ECU spark signal to trigger an MSD, with a nice big coil...............that'll cover you for spark no matter what you do to the engine. The ECU wouldn't care, once it's sent teh signal to the coil, it has no further knowledge of what happens.
These engines are very fussy with regards old distributors and the crank angle sensor/wiring harness located within. Even old timing chains can cause spark scatter when the chain hits resonant frequency(you can see it with a timing light).
You can buy new crank angle sensors and have the distributor rebushed/refurbished, which would be very good money spent on any higher mileage 2.6.

Regards, Andrew.

How 'bout on a 3L?

Some say the mitsu magna has a pretty good ignition system to begin with but does anybody know what the limits would be? I was thinking of gapping and running cooler plugs with an advance in timing to make a little more power but safely (running cooler plugs and gapping means I hope to obtain the stock like elements but with the fatter spark and advanced timing).

How 'bout on a 3L?

Some say the mitsu magna has a pretty good ignition system to begin with but does anybody know what the limits would be? I was thinking of gapping and running cooler plugs with an advance in timing to make a little more power but safely (running cooler plugs and gapping means I hope to obtain the stock like elements but with the fatter spark and advanced timing).

Im sure Vlad did something similar to this, like advancing the timing, and i know this sounds weird but i can remember him saying 140Kw, im sure thats from the fly from the auto but from what he used to say it used to clock the speedo and then some..

maybe throw him a PM? Or skotty who bought it off him.

140kw@ATF.. Well who knows the algorithm for that because I got 125hp@ATW on a dyno day coupe weeks ago.

I can't see something this small making 140 at the wheels on a stock engine.. I was hoping for a safe 5kw.

140kw@ATF.. Well who knows the algorithm for that because I got 125hp@ATW on a dyno day coupe weeks ago.

I can't see something this small making 140 at the wheels on a stock engine.. I was hoping for a safe 5kw.

Well ask him...Cause im sure i seen him post a 140Kw figure of SOME SORT......im sure....:redface: