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bomfunk
30-01-2004, 01:01 PM
i was inspecting my car today when i notice a crack in the rubber of the engine mount. ive havent notice any difference in handling and im not sure if it needs to be replaced :?: :?:

mr_mbquart
30-01-2004, 01:10 PM
i got mine changed this week.
The problem is that once they crack in the rubber, the crack keeps on getting bigger. You will probably get to a stage where the engine will "clunk" as you go around corners.
You might be in a bit of luck though having an older magna than me, try going to wreckers to get a second hand one.
I had to buy a new once, no wreckers had one, and it cost me $275

Mitsiman
01-02-2004, 08:17 AM
The magnas are common for this and the problem it will eventually cause is

(A) Puts more load on te rest of the mounts damaging them
(B) Will when launching hard cause the motor to bounce around more causing further loss of traction.


edited.....

BOosted' BOoya
01-02-2004, 08:20 AM
[quote:704e2f83f1](B) Will when launching hard cause the motor to bounce around more causing further loss of traction. [/quote:704e2f83f1]

is that simular to the "axle tramp" you can get sometimes? is that directly related to the engine mounting? ive only ever got 'axle tramp' once? anything can be done to stop it/prevent it from happing again?

Mitsiman
02-02-2004, 08:30 AM
Yes because teh load transmitted through the cv shafts direct affects the motor which has soft engine mounts to start with which has the same effect as axle tramp as with the motor bouncing around it moves the front of the car around it.

mr_mbquart
02-02-2004, 05:57 PM
good one Dave, i paid $275 for a genuine mitsibishi one last week, if i knew u done these i would have gotten one, the problem is now that is i have to wait for this mount to bust up again.
U said $165 exchange, does this still count of the rubber is cracked, what if u have two to trade in, then will this reduce the price again?

Mitsiman
02-02-2004, 07:47 PM
No there is no problem if there cracked as that is why they are exchange, to take your cracked one and give you a performance enhanced and strengthened unit :D

We remove teh stock rubbish material, press fit a solid polyurethane material into it, drilled, fix and then supply back so you can avoid the axle tramp problems.

Works in my magna TT

Velocity
02-02-2004, 07:55 PM
Mitsiman... how much work is involved in replacing the mounts? Does the engine need to be lifted partially out of the car?

My driver’s side engine mount looks stuffed - the rubbery thing inside is cracked and poking out.

Tomorrow is my last service under manufacturer's warranty, wonder if I can score some new ones. But I wonder if it’s worth the hassle as I’d ideally rather get the RPW mounts.

Also do the RPW mounts still absorb engine vibration like the factory ones, or would I expect more vibration being transferred to the car body :?:

Mitsiman
03-02-2004, 08:35 AM
The front engine mount on the front of the motor near the timing belts is fairly simple. The side ones can be more of a pain but otherwise fairly easy to get to.

Yes the polyurethane we use is something akin to compressed jelly, bad description but it will still absorb vibrations without being too harsh yes.

Possibly slightlymore vibration the more mounts you do the more vibration

mr_mbquart
03-02-2004, 09:11 AM
Dave
Will you trade in 2 though, because I have my old one that the rubber was cracked, then i also have the new one in my car at the moment. If I was to get your performance one then I would like to trade both of these in, is this possible. If so how much would I be looking at then?
Cheers
Paul

Mitsiman
03-02-2004, 02:30 PM
You coudl send us both if you want but it woudl be a waste of your money.

I woudl suggest keeping the new one until it breaks then get teh modified one fitted.

Madmagna
03-02-2004, 04:51 PM
Get the mounts from Bursons, are about 70 for the one at the back and about 120 for the front one. While at it get the manual one is it is solid.

dingo
15-02-2004, 10:10 PM
posted similar answer in another post, but here a snipet...

my mount stuffed!
got new one through mechanic from MMAL, cost $217 plus $20 for him to chuck it in... me too lazy and dont have the tools to do easily!

it was the full bracket with rubber inside... very easy job, if you have a wheel trolly (to lift the engine slightly) and a set of socket spanners!!

ReallyArt
16-02-2004, 09:55 AM
I've been getting axle tramp on the odd occasion in my Ralliart, generally when the road is wet and it's scrabbling for grip from takeoff.

Recently though, if I pull away s..l..o..w..l..y, like out of a car park, I get a shudder not disimilar to axle tramp (pretty violent shaking).

This only happens sometimes but never happens when I take it in for the dealer to look at. Could this be the mounts as well??

LiquidHotMagna
16-02-2004, 10:36 AM
Mal I think we need to do mine soon lol. On the way up to Bendigo the other day the passenger seat was sitting there oscillating beside me giving me the shits lol :)

Velocity
16-02-2004, 11:04 AM
I've been getting axle tramp on the odd occasion in my Ralliart, generally when the road is wet and it's scrabbling for grip from takeoff.

Recently though, if I pull away s..l..o..w..l..y, like out of a car park, I get a shudder not disimilar to axle tramp (pretty violent shaking).

This only happens sometimes but never happens when I take it in for the dealer to look at. Could this be the mounts as well??

Are your wheels straight or are you turning?

ReallyArt
16-02-2004, 12:37 PM
Are your wheels straight or are you turning?[/quote]


It seems to happen more often when turning. My guess is it's probably because there's more resistance on the clutch and diff. It starts off as a slight shudder then increases in amplitude. That's why I'm thinking the mounts may have something to do with it in that they don't cause the problem but if they're too soft they make the shudder worse.

My other guess is that is something to do with the LSD?

Velocity
16-02-2004, 12:48 PM
It seems to happen more often when turning. My guess is it's probably because there's more resistance on the clutch and diff. It starts off as a slight shudder then increases in amplitude. That's why I'm thinking the mounts may have something to do with it in that they don't cause the problem but if they're too soft they make the shudder worse.

My other guess is that is something to do with the LSD?

The LSD might be locking while turning, causing the agressive front end lift as the wheels are trying to rotate at the same speed on the turn.

I am having this problem atm with my aftermarket LSD, which I'm trying to get sorted, that's why I thought of it. And it mainly happens on slow cornering like parking.

ReallyArt
16-02-2004, 01:47 PM
My understanding of LSDs (which is limited) is that the oil type and the condition of the oil within them is critical for them to work properly ie correct amount of slip and grip. Does anyone know more about this??

dingo
17-02-2004, 09:20 PM
My understanding of LSDs (which is limited) is that the oil type and the condition of the oil within them is critical for them to work properly ie correct amount of slip and grip. Does anyone know more about this?? yeah the oil has a lot to do with it, how many k's you done since last service?? its possible that the stock oil is not suited to your climate maybe???

i'm not to sure about these torque sensing units, but standard LSD's should NOT be making you're cars shudder at low speeds (unless you're getting into it of cause!!)

ReallyArt
18-02-2004, 10:26 AM
It's been less than 1,000kms since last serviced and the car currently has just over 45,000km on it. The oil has never been changed but according to the service manual (which is unclear about LSDs) it probably should have been at the 45,000km service.

ReallyArt
18-02-2004, 10:26 AM
It's been less than 1,000kms since last serviced and the car currently has just over 45,000km on it. The oil has never been changed but according to the service manual (which is unclear about LSDs) it probably should have been at the 45,000km service.