Has anyone swapped the 7v regulator on the back of the dsah for a 8v one. I've been having problems with my clock resetting all the time. If i tap the cluster it resets also if i go over a bump it resets.
So anyway about a month ago i replaced the reg on the alt with no changs so i thought id put in the 8v reg seeing as it's only $1.20 and members on hear have claimed it made the fuel and temp gauge more accurate.
well i didn't do sqwat for me apart from telling me my tank was full when it was almost empty and the temp gauge was at the hottest mark:nuts:
so back in went the 7v and the temp was at the right place as well as the fuel gauge. but while doing this i did notice the plgu and connection for the clock was lose (like it could move side to side , so i guess thats why the clock keeps reseting).

So anyone who has done this can u tell me how it went for u. or is it just my cluster??

Has anyone swapped the 7v regulator on the back of the dsah for a 8v one. I've been having problems with my clock resetting all the time. If i tap the cluster it resets also if i go over a bump it resets.
So anyway about a month ago i replaced the reg on the alt with no changs so i thought id put in the 8v reg seeing as it's only $1.20 and members on hear have claimed it made the fuel and temp gauge more accurate.
well i didn't do sqwat for me apart from telling me my tank was full when it was almost empty and the temp gauge was at the hottest mark:nuts:
so back in went the 7v and the temp was at the right place as well as the fuel gauge. but while doing this i did notice the plgu and connection for the clock was lose (like it could move side to side , so i guess thats why the clock keeps reseting).

So anyone who has done this can u tell me how it went for u. or is it just my cluster??

Dude, my lcd clock ocassasionly works luck every now and then the light comes one when ever it feels like it.

your connection must move side to side like mine. Im not sure how to get it to stay in place. don't want to damage the cluster by trying to glue it to stop it moving.

super glue

super glue

Are you sure thats fine. i don't want it too eat through anything or the fumes affect anything.

saw a member swap his over and that holds it in place

it is the reg with 3 wire pins behind the dash

http://wiki.mitsubishiclubaustralia.net/index.php/TM-TP_F.A.Q#Electrical_System

clock might be a differnt problem members usually have clock problems with low voltages

no i meant gluing the clock connection in place. the problem with my clock is that the connection can move side to side so when it does it cuts out , but u know that cos it's above :D

i know what the reg is cos i replaced it and that doesn't work like everyones been saying , but u also know that cos it's written above in my first post:D don't need glue for the reg cause it's strapped there by a bit of plastic and 2 screws:nuts: :D :D

what i was asking is if i try to glue the plastic clock connection to the plastic body of the cluster(so it will stop moving and work all the time) will it eat thought it or damage anything.

Now with that write up, this is what my whole thread was about. cos that write up won't work(well u can do it but the gauges won't read proper). the 8v reg make evrything read at full . read my first post i was asking for ppl how have done this and what happed when they did it, cos i did it and all the gauges read wrong but back in with the 7v and they all work fine.

use araldite it is less corrosive to hold the clock in place ?

even the wires if loose

okey dokey just didn't want to melt the connection to the back of the cluster.

hot glue gun cheap and effective

hot glue gun cheap and effective

but in summer it get's really hot up here. So would the glue melt??

Must just be your dash... I have the 8v reg in mine and it's been going for about 9 months no problems. My fuel gauge is still inaccurate, but that's due to the sender windings worn out. No problems with the clock on mine either - although it did reset now and then with my old battery when I started the car as the voltage would drop too low... maybe related?

Must just be your dash... I have the 8v reg in mine and it's been going for about 9 months no problems. My fuel gauge is still inaccurate, but that's due to the sender windings worn out. No problems with the clock on mine either - although it did reset now and then with my old battery when I started the car as the voltage would drop too low... maybe related?

my battery is a yellow top optima thats 6 months old . i got plenty of voltage and the reg on the alt is new (i month old).

Super glue will work fine for securing that pin. Or, strip the wire and solder it directly, though you won't be able to remove the cluster if you do that.

Super glue will work fine for securing that pin. Or, strip the wire and solder it directly, though you won't be able to remove the cluster if you do that.

It's the connection on the actual cluster that moves not the plug or pins or wires. so soildering plastic connection to the plastic cluster won't work.
here's a pic of my cluster. It's cirled in blue. and the arrows show it moves side to side.A little black plug goes in there for the clock.

It's the connection on the actual cluster that moves not the plug or pins or wires. so soildering plastic connection to the plastic cluster won't work.
here's a pic of my cluster. It's cirled in blue. and the arrows show it moves side to side.A little black plug goes in there for the clock.
TP Auto?

That little plug there's for the PRND2L, not the clock. The clock's power wire is a blue one on one of the white plugs.

TP Auto?

That little plug there's for the PRND2L, not the clock. The clock's power wire is a blue one on one of the white plugs.

yea auto. but how come when i move it side to side the clock resets?
hhhmmm strange. so whats affecting my clock then??dam thought i knew why it was doing that. would u happen to know exectly which plug. looking like some soildering in my future.

yea auto. but how come when i move it side to side the clock resets?
hhhmmm strange. so whats affecting my clock then??dam thought i knew why it was doing that. would u happen to know exectly which plug. looking like some soildering in my future.
It is possible that when you wiggle it, it's flexing somewhere else too, that has a dry joint, or fuggered connection.

It is possible that when you wiggle it, it's flexing somewhere else too, that has a dry joint, or fuggered connection.
not sure i'll have to take the cluster out tommorow and see if anything else moves at the same time.Didn't look for that so maybe.
Ive got the wiring diagrams in front of me but can't understand where the plugs would be. It shows the wires going to fuses but im not sure what the letters stand for as a colour. eg, BR that could be blue\red or black\red:nuts: electrics are the only thing that stumps me.
So if anyone can tel me which plug is for the clock and the wire colours that would be good, so i can see tommorow if there lose and need resoildering.

Blue is L, Black is B, so BR would be a Black wire, with a red trace.

(I rewired my ol' wagon for Elite gear...)

Blue is L, Black is B, so BR would be a Black wire, with a red trace.

(I rewired my ol' wagon for Elite gear...)

thanks gav.was looking for a ledgend (key,to explain the colours)in the manual but didn't see one.i'll just follow the coloured wires tommorow and see which plug it leads me too.
cheers:D