Well, For those of you who are about to pick up that hair dryer and start sticking it down, learn from this, do not paste it in little segments, just use long reams, this will stop it from peeling off, try a better method for service hole, cut a hole out of the MDF, dont just cut the top of it, do not stick over clip holes, screw holes :redface:, and i think the first service hole (top left) is made for the window demister, which is why my trim isnt sitting straight :bowrofl: will get back to you on this. :nuts:, i just used flashtac, im doing another layer, to clean it up a bit, i personally think flashtac is all you need, 30$ a door, and maybe another roll for two doors just to seal it up a bit more.

I will be doing passenger door, then parcel shelf, parcel shelf i might put dynamat.

Looks like a good job you did there. Have you heard a noticable difference in the road noise and does the door now close with a solid thud? I will be doing this on my holidays in a few weeks so just wondering what to expect that's all. I will be doing my doors and the parcel shelf as well. Was considering doing the floor but it would cost a fortune I think. Where did you get the Flashtac from? Thanks

What i want to know is, Who told you to cut it up into little squares?
you did a top job though

all of the above... and you didnt heat it up with a hair dryer first did you? and you say your gonna dynamat after? ill give you another tip, one layer of dynamat would do the job of 3 layers of flash tacky... apart from that youve done a pretty tidy job there already from the looks of it

flashtac is a builders secret, you can get it from bunnings..... and he didnt cut it up, thats how it comes.

dont tell too many people of this little secret, i plan to do the same!

but do tell, how does it sound...... im keen as chips to do this

i was reccommended flashac by a very high end audio shop in vic who do some awesome installs, he said $ for $ it's the best value even though 2 layers will be needed to be as good as 1 layer of the stuff he had.... the difference is $100 was going to ge me enough stuff to almost do a door where as $100 of flashtac is enough to do 2 doors and the boot in 2 layers 3 where needed

flashtac comes in various roll widths from like 30mm up to 240mm wide


i will admit it not as good, but fot us who dont have the finest tuned ears and med core systems in our cars its more than fine and after install the doors and boot closed more solidly

ohh and it helped heaps with the rattles and vibrations in the doors.... now i just got to do the roof floor lol nah not going to bother... i'd change my exhaust first if i was going that far cos a certain crusing revs the exhaust resonates and vibreates the whole car

flashtac sucks, its a fraction thicker than paper.. and you risk it peeling off after a few summers.

dynamat is the easiest to apply, no need to heat it, as long as the surface is clean, it will never come off :) $ for $, we worked out that dynamat is actually cheaper.. so save yourself the drama if you plan on deadening and use dynamat :)

Why have you sound deadend the doors when it looks like your running stock speakers

because future proofing is awesome :D

I'm only deadening my doors to cut out some road noise.

you dont have to heat flashtac to use it i applied it on a 10deg day and it was very pliable and fine... it sticks well too and hasnt fallen off (think of it's design use, using it inside a door is an easy life for it lol)

and it's atleast 1.5mm thick...

it does the job, sure there is dynamat, but there is also $5,000 amps out there yet i had a budget for a $200 amp...

of course it's not as good but it still does the kob and cheaply.... and it stoped the rattles in my boot caused by the subs now it the actual plastic bumper which vibrates and the roof resonates due to the sound pressure... even you hair blows about when you sit in it occasionally....


if anyone is interested as mentioned before a highly regargded audio shop told me about it (not autobarn jb or crapfield!)

Well a dynamat extreme door kit is about $100 dollars. And it has cost him $30/door for flashtac and needs two layers to do as good a job. So its $120 for two layers of flashtac or $100 for a dynamat kit. I know which id choose.

$100 of flashtac is enough to do 2 doors and the boot in 2 layers 3 where needed



as above, if not even more.... it cost me loking at the reciept $48 to do 2 doors and whole bootlid in 1 layer

After spending $70 on the jaycar sound deadner id definatly do it all over again in dynamat.

When i did mine i thought it would work out cheaper until you find out just how thin it is.
I now have a bit of spare dynamat and the stuff looks awesome, cant wait to apply it. much better then the cheap stuff quality wise.

......$100 of flashtac is enough to do 2 doors and the boot in 2 layers 3 where needed

Have been wondering if anyone else has used this. Also paint the interior of the door cards with a bitumen paint, (from bunnings, 4l 4 $40) & you'll end up with a cheap alternative to Dynamat.


......i will admit it not as good, but for us who dont have the finest tuned ears and med core systems in our cars its more than fine and after install the doors and boot closed more solidly



Has worked wonders for my wagon, especially the boot area.

Have been wondering if anyone else has used this. Also paint the interior of the door cards with a bitumen paint, (from bunnings, 4l 4 $40) & you'll end up with a cheap alternative to Dynamat.



Has worked wonders for my wagon, especially the boot area.

Yeah ive painted all door cards, parecel shelf, bootlid, and roof with that stuff, best value for money sound deadning out there

I reckon you should consider the deadening you use in respect to how much you need it :redface: :nuts: bad wording I know!!

But I don't see the point in having spent $100 on a door for deadening, when there is only going to be around 50 watts of juice pumping into a set of cheap mid woofers... so I can see the point of using flashtac in this instance. I'd budget for around $100 in deadening per $300 spent on speakers... to keep things in perspective.

I initially used flashtac on my install when I was running a set of focals from the H.U., which made a good improvement on what I had.

At the moment I've got Focal plain chant tiles, MDF panels covering the service holes, half a bulk pack of Dynamat per door, about a litre of bitmumen deadening on the inside of the door trim, plus a liberal amount of dacron in areas of vibration between the door trim and the door frame. With the amount of power running into the speakers at the moment, I think its justified.

Geez I babble!!! What I'm getting at is that I can see how in some cases flashtac will do, but nothing comes close to Dynamat for serious deadening needs, when you have big vibration problems to absorb.

Heaven help me if I need to fix something in the door though lol

I reckon you should consider the deadening you use in respect to how much you need it :redface: :nuts: bad wording I know!!

But I don't see the point in having spent $100 on a door for deadening, when there is only going to be around 50 watts of juice pumping into a set of cheap mid woofers... so I can see the point of using flashtac in this instance. I'd budget for around $100 in deadening per $300 spent on speakers... to keep things in perspective.

I initially used flashtac on my install when I was running a set of focals from the H.U., which made a good improvement on what I had.

At the moment I've got Focal plain chant tiles, MDF panels covering the service holes, half a bulk pack of Dynamat per door, about a litre of bitmumen deadening on the inside of the door trim, plus a liberal amount of dacron in areas of vibration between the door trim and the door frame. With the amount of power running into the speakers at the moment, I think its justified.

Geez I babble!!! What I'm getting at is that I can see how in some cases flashtac will do, but nothing comes close to Dynamat for serious deadening needs, when you have big vibration problems to absorb.

Heaven help me if I need to fix something in the door though lol


Well if i go with the $100 to every $300 spent on speakers.... if you include subs... I would have to use....... $700 worth of sound deadening!!!!

Well if i go with the $100 to every $300 spent on speakers.... if you include subs... I would have to use....... $700 worth of sound deadening!!!!

Whoa!! Sounds like you have a big system :badgrin: $700 would get a set of plain chant pads for the fronts, and 2 bulk packs for the car, which would be about what I'd want to put into a car with a solid sounding sub and a good set of splits. This would make a big difference in the quality of sound compared to an undampened system...

But I have been known to exagerrate :silenced:...

By the way, what do ya have in your car ATM? I'd be great to get some more big installs in the Installs Thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49740) to help Tim build it up again... I'd love some more inspiration for my install too :)

Whoa!! Sounds like you have a big system :badgrin: $700 would get a set of plain chant pads for the fronts, and 2 bulk packs for the car, which would be about what I'd want to put into a car with a solid sounding sub and a good set of splits. This would make a big difference in the quality of sound compared to an undampened system...

But I have been known to exagerrate :silenced:...


hehe i wasnt going on what was in the car atm, but what i have spent on speakers all up. only about $950 is in the car atm...

note to self... STOP SPENDING MONEY!!!

I went to bunnings today and no one had heard of this flash tac. Is that the propper name for it or not? I also bought that bitumen waterproofing stuff. Is that the right thing?

do it once do it properly


thats what i have always been told and EVERYONE at CAA/MEA has said use dynamat extreme...


woob - damo95 is doing mine so its in good hands ;)

do it once do it properly


thats what i have always been told and EVERYONE at CAA/MEA has said use dynamat extreme...


woob - damo95 is doing mine so its in good hands ;)
Yes but all those that suggest that from caa are in the autosalon contests for best install and sq and db contests. Im not. So that advice doesnt apply to me

but why spend more effort on something for a ****ter result that costs only a tiny bit less?

I went to bunnings today and no one had heard of this flash tac. Is that the propper name for it or not? I also bought that bitumen waterproofing stuff. Is that the right thing?

I went to Bunnings last week to check out this Flashtac and that it's actual name. You should find it in the building materials section in lengths of 10 metre rolls in varying widths.

From memory, a 216mm x 10m roll (the widest they had) was about $98 and a 144mm x 10m is about $58. There were smaller width rolls there that are even cheaper. I must say though that this stuff it pretty thin but then again, I have nothing to compare it to so all sound deadening sheets might like this.

Has anybody ever used the stuff that you put under carpets? That ugly purple matting with a few other dull colours in it? Just coz a mate used it for his band shed and it's done a fair good job for that. Could be totally different tho for a car and i can imagine it would be hard to install but maybe? i do have minimal knowledge on this subject though:confused:

Hedgie, dynamat make a product for the application you are thinking of. Check out their website, it looks quite good.

if you want sound deadening for under carpet, Bostik make some deadening mats really cheap, like $30 for a box of 10 or something.. apparently they are fantastic for deadening horizontal surfaces, as they dont stick for crap vertically. Panel beaters use them when they need to do chassis work and replace the deadening

if anyone is interested as mentioned before a highly regargded audio shop told me about it (not autobarn jb or crapfield!)


well our super street 1-2 car has dynamat and we wouldn't use anything else but then were not a "highly regarded audio shop" coz our spl car is quiet at 161.4db in its second ever comp

unlike all these "highly regarded audioshops" :nuts:

well our super street 1-2 car has dynamat and we wouldn't use anything else but then were not a "highly regarded audio shop" coz our spl car is quiet at 161.4db in its second ever comp

unlike all these "highly regarded audioshops" :nuts:

I hate to pick, but wouldn't it be louder without sound deadening?

The tar would absorb the sound unlike the metal that would reflect most of it away, this would cause more sound waves to be in the car raising the total sound in the car....

Sure it may not sound as good, but in a Db shoot out it would perform higher.

I hate to pick, but wouldn't it be louder without sound deadening?

The tar would absorb the sound unlike the metal that would reflect most of it away, this would cause more sound waves to be in the car raising the total sound in the car....

Sure it may not sound as good, but in a Db shoot out it would perform higher.

:think: Don't qoute me for sure, but I was always under the assumption that any sound waves, especially lower frequency waves pass through bare metal sheeting (that's why you can hear it from the outside of the car. So with that I alwyas thought that the sound is being lost anyways. SPL cars reflect the sound waves back into the cabin by extra reinforcement, either heavy MDF sheets, cement, or fat people on the windscreen. The tar (sound deadening) won't lower the SPL at all, it will mearly stop higher freq reflections (not spl type sound) from creating harsh peaks in speaker response, and lower the amount of sound heard from outside the car.

i replied earlier but it seems it didnt succeed :S

Dynamat and similar sound deadening is used to lower the resonant frequency and add mass (strength) the panel. not to absorb sound

well we have done more hours testing than i would like to remember and i can tell you that on the termlab you DO NOT loose even ANY db at all with dynamat, we actually picked up .1 db, but the look on peoples faces when the car hardly resonates and hits 160 db is priceless, specially when billy bob in his car rattles like a *insert bad word* and pulls a 149db

if you want sound deadening for under carpet, Bostik make some deadening mats really cheap, like $30 for a box of 10 or something.. apparently they are fantastic for deadening horizontal surfaces, as they dont stick for crap vertically. Panel beaters use them when they need to do chassis work and replace the deadening

Hey Woob, would you a specific place that stocks this Bostik deadener? Thanks

The door does thud now.

It seemed easier to cut it into little squares, because im going back over it later on with a paint, and then another layer.

The sound is not that noticable at the moment as the rear view mirror still rattles :rant:, and i also need todo the other door.

I had free time so I decided todo it then, so the stocks will be gone soon as they are easy to replace.

If your going to try and cut road noise, do the outer of the door, so basically the part which is on the outside of the car.

Parcel shelf is a killer, I would recommend this first for any decent sub, damn it vibrates, and its not a rattle. But if you take a look whilst its on you can see the carpet vibrate like hell.

"I went to bunnings today and no one had heard of this flash tac.", ask for weatherproofing tape section.




I was happy with the result. In the end i guess thats all that matters.

In terms of the db vs deadening debate.

Deadening dissipates audible noise (rattles/resonance) as heat and movement through the tar.

Therefore deadening actually does reduce the amount of noise in a car. For db comps it is a fairly tested truth that adding deadening makes your car quieter.

BUT.

in terms of listening to music it will lower your ambient noise (all noise that isnt music; road noise, rattles, resonance etc) so your sound wont need to overcome this for you to hear all the detail.

So if you want to get loud for db comps... = no deadening.

If you want your car to sound good and your MUSIC to be louder at lower volumes = deadening.

it's worth its weight in gold, and is the difference between a noise and music.

Peace

Tim

In terms of the db vs deadening debate.

Deadening dissipates audible noise (rattles/resonance) as heat and movement through the tar.

Therefore deadening actually does reduce the amount of noise in a car. For db comps it is a fairly tested truth that adding deadening makes your car quieter.

BUT.

in terms of listening to music it will lower your ambient noise (all noise that isnt music; road noise, rattles, resonance etc) so your sound wont need to overcome this for you to hear all the detail.

So if you want to get loud for db comps... = no deadening.

If you want your car to sound good and your MUSIC to be louder at lower volumes = deadening.

it's worth its weight in gold, and is the difference between a noise and music.

Peace

Tim

Pretty much what I expected.