as title says what cams should i use to replace the stockys in my TJ awd?

the heads have to come off so im thinking there isnt going to be another chance to do the cams and valve springs etc...

bear in mind it's supercharged and currently sitting on 6psi but i am going to bump that up to 10psi when i can...

i was just thinking some stock ralliart cams as they are the same profile just with a tad more lift...

any ideas?

Aren't you sick of your car? You said you're over it etc.

Get some stage 2 or 3 cams. POWER!

Aren't you sick of your car? You said you're over it etc.

Get some stage 2 or 3 cams. POWER!


As if.. Get some stupidly big cam that sounds like its trying to jump out of the motor..:)

Or if you are smart stage 2-3 would be better..:)

Aren't you sick of your car? You said you're over it etc.

Get some stage 2 or 3 cams. POWER!


yeah im sick of it!

who if anyone knows if these types of cams are going to work with boost?

i dont wanna slot some in and find out it went better stock lol

yeah im sick of it!

who if anyone knows if these types of cams are going to work with boost?

i dont wanna slot some in and find out it went better stock lol


I think the RPW twin turbo magna has aftermarket cams in it. Jump on the website and find out what ones they have in there.

Cams for a boosted engine need to be higher in lift and only slightly longer duration (probably around 30degrees more duration than stock say around 270degrees maximum) BUT you dont wanna go too long with the duration otherwise some of your forced air/fuel mix will be lost straight out the exhaust, also you would want a fairly wide lobe seperation, say around the 114-118degree range.

Ralliart cams would be a good cheap choice for your engine, as they have more lift than stock but standard duration.

Cams for a boosted engine need to be higher in lift and only slightly longer duration (probably around 30degrees more duration than stock say around 270degrees maximum) BUT you dont wanna go too long with the duration otherwise some of your forced air/fuel mix will be lost straight out the exhaust, also you would want a fairly wide lobe seperation, say around the 114-118degree range.

Ralliart cams would be a good cheap choice for your engine, as they have more lift than stock but standard duration.


thanks that was the kinda info i was after..

You need supercharger specific profiles which is a combination of a n/a profile and a turbo profile.

Increased duration is not really the answer, you need to run a large lobe seperation angle to stop the incoming charge going straight out the exhaust, but you also need to run a smallish intkae profile because its boosted, and run a largish exhaust profile, to enable the exhaust to be sucked out on both off boost and on boost.

A turbo profile isn't good for a supercharger because it counts on there being a restriction on hte exhaust side, whcih doesn't exist on a supercharger engine. As well due to the nature of it coming on boost straight away, you need a cam to accomodate that.

i see....

so basically it would have to be a custom grind... and that'd cost $$$$

ahh im poor now, damit lol

i guess i'll just check out the conditon of the existing cams, and if they are no good maybe toss some ralliart ones in there for a cheap upgrade....

i have to look at the valve springs and rocker gear too, cos the damn thing makes peak power at rpm cut and revs out so quickly..

We have superhcarger profiles already in stock - we sell them a lot to the USA market.

Doesn't cost anymore than any other magna billet camshaft we stock.

You are nuts :bowrofl:

Are you still gonna sell your car? If so I wouldn't worry about upgrading anything. Just get it fixed and back on the road.

nah it's going and ****ing fast too i ****myself the otherday when i drove it lol

just has a minor unknown problem and cyl 1 is 30psi down on compression and the sparkplug was damaged, put a new plug in it and she's all good (if i didnt tell anyone it was stuffed you wouldnt know) not going to sell it spent 40k all up and i cant think of any other car i want... cos this is what i wanted lol

mitsuman can you please pm me price... im at work and the work computer wont let me look at many sites im lucky amc works sometimes thanks

nah it's going and ****ing fast too i ****myself the otherday when i drove it lol

just has a minor unknown problem and cyl 1 is 30psi down on compression and the sparkplug was damaged, put a new plug in it and she's all good (if i didnt tell anyone it was stuffed you wouldnt know) not going to sell it spent 40k all up and i cant think of any other car i want... cos this is what i wanted lol
In that case I reckon you should work on trying to get a manual in there aswell. I'm sure there is a way. Speak to Protek about it and I reckon they could do it for you.

just has a minor unknown problem and cyl 1 is 30psi down on compression and the sparkplug was damaged,

You sure it wasn't pre-detonation and/or leaning out that did the damange?

nope definatley not, some foreign object has entered the combustion chamber... me thinks its when they had the lid off my plenum... cant prove anything though...

all signs lead to this as sparkplug was damaged looked like it was droped on its end so something has hit it. and the engine function/operation is as normal so 3 mechanics i have talked to so far are with me on the thinking that something very small has gone in and possibly damaged a valve or valveseat or something similar on its way either in or out... wont know till the head is off...

but it still runs fine and still does the 1/4 in 14.4sec lol

but im paranoid so i wanna fix it when i can afford it...

also regrinding cams? worth it or not?

nope definatley not, some foreign object has entered the combustion chamber... me thinks its when they had the lid off my plenum... cant prove anything though...

all signs lead to this as sparkplug was damaged looked like it was droped on its end so something has hit it. and the engine function/operation is as normal so 3 mechanics i have talked to so far are with me on the thinking that something very small has gone in and possibly damaged a valve or valveseat or something similar on its way either in or out... wont know till the head is off...

but it still runs fine and still does the 1/4 in 14.4sec lol

but im paranoid so i wanna fix it when i can afford it...

also regrinding cams? worth it or not?

Damn, hope it doesn't turn out too expensive to fix. 14.4 is decenttly quick!!! :P

We have superhcarger profiles already in stock - we sell them a lot to the USA market.

Doesn't cost anymore than any other magna billet camshaft we stock.
hey dave,

would this require adjustable cam gears as well, or could a profile be made that the standard cam gears can be retained? I also assume that valve springs would need to be replaced along with injectors cause we'd be using more fuel.

God the list just keeps going on and on!!!

cam gears, most prob
Valve springs, depends on what sort of profile you go for
and injectors, prob not, also depends on what sort of increase your looking at.
just dont forget an ECu tune is required

cam gears, most prob
Valve springs, depends on what sort of profile you go for
and injectors, prob not, also depends on what sort of increase your looking at.
just dont forget an ECu tune is required
the ECU is being taken care of at the end of next month, so no dramas there :cool:

If you just go a stage 1 supercharger profile, no valve springs or cam gears required. Just fit them and start tuning.

Like anything, cam gears do give extra tuneability and tweaking and I have always foud the effort worth doing.

Unless you have something better than the piggy back ECU setup the sprintex runs, I would not recomend anything larger than a stage 1 profile on that setup.

i think i need valve springs though... in drive my car sometimes hits the rev limiter before upshifting cos it revs out really quick up top.... (btw mine cuts at 6750rpm, and i cant increase the rev limit with the piggyback :()

or i need a shift kit so it will shift quicker... and yes the auto tans is fine...

Get the Ralliart cams, they are available through Mistubishi spare parts for $266.55 each, even cheaper trade price!!
Thats friggin cheap!! I just bought some.

Get the Ralliart cams, they are available through Mistubishi spare parts for $266.55 each, even cheaper trade price!!
Thats friggin cheap!! I just bought some.

So $500 for ralliart cams which aren't ideal for FI, + ~$500 installation + ~$300 retune for very minimal gain? Not great advice mate...

Add another $600 on top of the ~$1300 for the right profile cams and make a nice gain, as opposed to virtually no gain. I know which I'd pick.

Btw, as a Ralliart owner, why did you just buy ralliart cams? If they needed replacing, surely you'd upgrade them while you're at it, rather than get the same cams again...

So $500 for ralliart cams which aren't suited for FI,

Considering the Ralliart cams are the same spec as the standard TJ cams except for having 10% more lift, I'd say they would work just fine in a FI setup.

I agree, there are better options out there, but for the price they aren't too bad.

I agree, there are better options out there, but for the price they aren't too bad.

By themselves the cams may be quite cheap, but once you factor in the other costs of swappig cams, you're looking at pretty dismal gains-for-money (Unless you are going DIY),especially where spending more on proper-for-the-application cams would lilkely net much more of a gain.

By themselves the cams may be quite cheap, but once you factor in the other costs of swappig cams, you're looking at pretty dismal gains-for-money (Unless you are going DIY),especially where spending more on proper-for-the-application cams would lilkely net much more of a gain.

Cam swaps take me around 2 1/2 hours on a magna V6.

If ya want more gain for the dollar, your better off upping the boost a few psi, instead of spending $1000+ (rpw price for cams) then more for stronger valve springs, which to do properly is a heads off excercise, so then theres new head gaskets etc.
So unless your prepared to do everything yourself like i do then you will be paying good money that could be spent elsewhere unless cams were the last mod you have left to do.

just my 2 cents (im now off to do some more work on my magna lol )

my heads will be off


and upping the boost isnt so simple... i have to get a pulley custom made...

interesting to note i have been hangingaround the commo v6 supercharged site and to match the magna 3.5L output on only 6psi they need their 3.8L motor atleast 10psi and full exhaust tune and rockers etc...

the magna 3.5 must be pretty good!

my heads will be off


and upping the boost isnt so simple... i have to get a pulley custom made...

interesting to note i have been hangingaround the commo v6 supercharged site and to match the magna 3.5L output on only 6psi they need their 3.8L motor atleast 10psi and full exhaust tune and rockers etc...

the magna 3.5 must be pretty good!
I remember micjay telling me they swapped pulleys on his car with one off a commo V6 because of belt tension issues. If this is true then what is stoppng us from going to FIT and getting an 8-9 psi pulley made for a commo V6?

I remember micjay telling me they swapped pulleys on his car with one off a commo V6 because of belt tension issues. If this is true then what is stoppng us from going to FIT and getting an 8-9 psi pulley made for a commo V6?
Yeah I was boosting at 8psi, but when I had to get the belt retentioned they put a VY SV6 pulley in which is slighty bigger i believe, hence why it only boosted to 7psi

Like you said I'd be checking to see if the commodore pulleys will fit.

Yeah I was boosting at 8psi, but when I had to get the belt retentioned they put a VY SV6 pulley in which is slighty bigger i believe, hence why it only boosted to 7psi

Like you said I'd be checking to see if the commodore pulleys will fit.


i have asked sprintex this and THERE IS ONLY 1 PULLEY from the horses mouth

thats all there was only ever one pulley made and we all have the same pulley.

the tensioner is a different issue...

to increase boost we have to reduce the size of the pulley... this will cause issues with the belt tensioner and ideally the belt tensioner pully should increase in size to compensate

So $500 for ralliart cams which aren't suited for FI, + ~$500 installation + ~$300 retune for very minimal gain? Not great advice mate...

Add another $600 on top of the ~$1300 for the right profile cams and make a nice gain, as opposed to virtually no gain. I know which I'd pick.

Btw, as a Ralliart owner, why did you just buy ralliart cams? If they needed replacing, surely you'd upgrade them while you're at it, rather than get the same cams again...

The cams were for my wife TE 3.0ltr, it got a 3.5ltr with Ralliart cams. The stock 3.0ltr ECU is controlling it all very well, and if you want to spend $1300 on a set of cams, then be my guest, personally I'd ring Wagott Cams and get a quote. I was quoted $800 for a set. With slightly more lift and duration, Ralliart cams would be good for boost and you dont need to buy better quality valve gear like springs and retainers like you do for any of the RPW cams.

RPW Stage 1 camshafts - don't need retainers, valve springs or cam gears.
RPW Stage 2 camshafts - just need valve springs and recomended to use cam gears.

RPW Stage 1 camshafts - don't need retainers, valve springs or cam gears.
RPW Stage 2 camshafts - just need valve springs and recomended to use cam gears.

so in theory lets just say i was to fit stage 1 supercharger cams, port and polish the heads and fit new valvesprings and increase the boost to approx 9psi up from 6psi, what approx gains could i see in theory, just an estimation if possible

considering it makes 175kw at all 4 wheels std cam and heads on 6psi...

would it be safe to say cam heads boost and new tune 200+kw???

if i dont sell the magna... im selling the vitara and the work begins soon



(note made 175kw at all 4 wheels with 34deg inlet temps(hot day) with 2deg more timing made 188kw atw but started to ping lightly, power curve dosent fall off just keeps going up and up)

There are so many factors there - firstly are you staying with the stock setup of the sprintex system - if so then quite honestly, camshafts and porting work is going to be marginal in its improvement, and create worse problems in the tune of the vehicle.

Going on the basis you will upgrade the ECU package and fueling system to a better setup.

Again no need for valve springs on stage 1 camshafts this will only result in essentially losing horsepower by having un necessary heavier springs with no benefit.

Stage 1 profile camshaft will provide a minor improvement in power probably around 10% but what it does provide is better fuel economy, throttle response and more importantly, correct breathing setup for max efficiency for the supercharger. This means that the tuning can be a lot more exact, efficient, use less fuel, more economy and for basically be optimised.

Stage 2 profile picks up from here with higher boost for greater efficiency and greater power.

it has been retuned, and the computer had all the features of a regualr piggyback eg.. haltech etc...

after the retune it made 30kw more atw's and has since also dramaticaly reduced fuel consumption...


the reason to the valve springs is that the engine revs so quickly to the top end it is constantly in the 6-7k zone when giving it a bit.... and considering it makes peak power at max rpm i want something that will be more stable than the stock springs at hight rpm

as for the sprintex kit i have different ecu and fuel pump... injectors are at 90-95% dont know about the fuel presure but it has a walbro intank pump... im told there is plenty more in the 7th injector though