For all of you out there who have run zero guage in your third gen, have you run it down the centre console, or, through the wiring tunnels on the side of the car ??

If done the centre, can you see the cable bulging out of the carpet

run it down the side of the car

as above

Assuming you both come in from the gromit near the clutch, run it under the drivers seat and up the side ?

yep the gormet just above the clutch
but my powers run down the passenger side of the car
drivers side is where my speaker cable and RCA's have been run

Mine run on the opposite side:D

not a third gen but i ran mine down the center under the centre console. rcas down the left and speaker both sides.

0 gauge 3rd gen, through the centre...

big grommet down the middle u could fit two runs of 0 guage (possibly)


http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24057&highlight=gauge+firewall
Check post 17 for pics

Thats the same gromit i use. Im just wanting to upgrade my 4awg to 0awg soon.

Tim, running down the centre, does the cable bulge anywhere ? Also, can it be felt under the back seat ?

Thats the same gromit i use. Im just wanting to upgrade my 4awg to 0awg soon.

Tim, running down the centre, does the cable bulge anywhere ? Also, can it be felt under the back seat ?

Nar no dramas.

U cant feel it under the back seat

might be able to feel it through the carpet if you knew it was there, but you wont have any issues.

i got my 0awg going through the big grommet on the right hand site of the engine bay (when looking into it) get a pic tomorrow if i remember

sounds better to me running down the centre. That way i can keep the cable to its shortest length, and well away from all speaker wire and rcas. hmmm, ideas ideas :D

i got my 0awg going through the big grommet on the right hand site of the engine bay (when looking into it) get a pic tomorrow if i remember

I know which one your talking about. Its the one next to the strut tower is it not ?

yep, thats the one

Meh!! Just cut a hole in your bonnet, and a hole in your boot lid, then sticky tape the cable over your roof.

:thumbsup:

Is there really that much advantage having 0G cable. I have two amps ( cadence 2 channel (bridged for the r type sub) and a v power 4 channel for the fronts and backs. I have run 8G for the 4 channel and 4G for the 2 channel (going soon to be replaced by the V12 amp) both cables are run direct from the bat. I can't really see either amp pullin enough for 0G cable.

am i mistaken and risking all sorts of nasties or is 0G just overkill for the hell of it? :confused:

Is there really that much advantage having 0G cable. I have two amps ( cadence 2 channel (bridged for the r type sub) and a v power 4 channel for the fronts and backs. I have run 8G for the 4 channel and 4G for the 2 channel (going soon to be replaced by the V12 amp) both cables are run direct from the bat. I can't really see either amp pullin enough for 0G cable.

am i mistaken and risking all sorts of nasties or is 0G just overkill for the hell of it? :confused:

You can find out if you should upgrade your system wiring by testing for voltage drops using a multimeter. There are a couple of steps you can follow in post 15 of this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44346&page=2)

Handy hits there:)

Another way is to simply add up the fuses on each of your amps (this will determine max possible current draw through the cable)

With this you want to match the gauge to the current draw.

Wire Gauge - Fuse Size
2/0 gauge - 430 amps
0 gauge - 345 amps
1 gauge - 265 amps
2 gauge - 215 amps
4 gauge - 135 amps
6 gauge - 80 amps
8 gauge - 55 amps
10 gauge - 30 amps
12 gauge - 20 amps
14 gauge - 15 amps
16 gauge - 7.5 amps

And That chart you posted was each wire size and its Current limit?

']And That chart you posted was each wire size and its Current limit?
Yep suggested cable for that gauge... i.e you are fine to run 135 amps through 4 gauge but any more than that you would want to go to 2 gauge.

That's probably an easier and safer method, and your choice in wiring will certainly be solved using this way....


But what if your amp doesn't have fuses? (my PPI amps don't).. Also, I see little benefit spend extra cash on cable if you don't need it.

For example: The amps fuse relates to the current draw it will take at its maximum usage. If I wanted to use it with my gains set to low, or configured as a stereo 4 ohm output instead of a bridged 2ohm output (which would use more current)...should I wire the system up using the fuse ratings if I was not going to use the amp at its full current limit?

Of course, to aid in future amp configurations, that may use a larger current draw the answer would be to setup the cabling so it would be able to cope with any changes, but if you were happy with the setup as is, and it doesn't use the amps to full current draw, then a lot of time and money could be saved by a few simple tests instead of a blanket solution.



I would go with Tim's method to be absolutely sure that you won't encounter problems due to current draw in the wiring, you are sure that there weren't going to be any other problems, and you didn't mind spending a little extra cash just to be safe :cool:

I would go with the testing method to ensure that the wiring is working properly (checking grounding, battery and charging systems faults) as a more concise method of determining whether an upgrade is neccessary.

sorry for diverting from the original topic of this thread but when you guys run a 0G cable to the boot do you then use a distrubution block in the boot to run to your amps or have 0G for one amp? I have always run a seperate cable from the bat for each amp, is this just a waste of time?

sorry for diverting from the original topic of this thread but when you guys run a 0G cable to the boot do you then use a distrubution block in the boot to run to your amps or have 0G for one amp? I have always run a seperate cable from the bat for each amp, is this just a waste of time?
yes total waste of time, money and effort.

Always One cable. then split it at the boot using distro blocks if necessary. Ie fine to use 0 gauge to distro, then 2 x 4 gauge to amps etc...

yes total waste of time, money and effort.

Always One cable. then split it at the boot using distro blocks if necessary. Ie fine to use 0 gauge to distro, then 2 x 4 gauge to amps etc...

so should i go to a single cable set-up? or leave it as is

Yep suggested cable for that gauge... i.e you are fine to run 135 amps through 4 gauge but any more than that you would want to go to 2 gauge.

That guide is only a very rough rule of thumb. For example, the amount of current you can fun through the same guage wire also depends on the brand. Marty from FHRX has done a few tests on this.

I remember him saying jaycar 4guage could only flow a bit over 100amps, whereas the stinger equivalent could flow approx 130 (from the top of my head).

Also, while im in the different in brands, different brands have different cable resistances, leading to higher, or lower voltage drop :)

That guide is only a very rough rule of thumb. For example, the amount of current you can fun through the same guage wire also depends on the brand. Marty from FHRX has done a few tests on this.

I remember him saying jaycar 4guage could only flow a bit over 100amps, whereas the stinger equivalent could flow approx 130 (from the top of my head).

Also, while im in the different in brands, different brands have different cable resistances, leading to higher, or lower voltage drop :)

Yeah.. It's fricken annoying when you want a specific guage, only to find out that it's actual copper content is smaller than another brands wire size, even at the same guage. It's downright false advertizin I sez!!!

GRRRRRRR!!!!! :rant: *kicks foot out in frustration...only to put a hole through the wall* DOH!!!

Well i puchased Aerpro 2ga wiring. Compared to the jaycar stuff it looked alot better.....I agree too its not fair that you've been told its both say 4ga when in actuall fact it contains a different amount of wire.