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View Full Version : WIP- DIY: 2nd Gen Remote Central Locking



yann89
26-06-2007, 07:47 PM
Hi there, noticed there weren’t any threads on how to do this, so I decided to make one.

*Note- This is how I did it, so there may be a simpler way*

!!WARNING- Make sure to always leave your key elsewhere, whether it is inside your home or in your pocket when carrying out this exercise!!

You will need:
1) Remote Central Locking Kit which includes: lock motors, link rods, and remote receiver, wiring kit and screws / fasteners.

2) Set of Flat blade and Phillips head screwdrivers.

3) Several smaller sized sockets (10mm, 11mm, 12mm).

4) Hex shaped screwdrivers.

5) Spare Battery or portable Jump starter to test locking mechanisms with.

6) "Wire Taps" (also known as "Wire Splices") from Autobarn or Supercheap Auto.

You might need:

1) Electrical Tape

2) Extra Wires

3) Wire Cutters

It took me a while to do it as I was doing it slowly every day after school and a little bit on weekends. It should be possible in one day.

Procedure:

**Note- Starting by drivers door**

1) Remove door trim by unscrewing from screw points and clip points making sure not to neglect door handles and window winder (if fitted).

2) Disconnect current Central Locking Solenoid (CLS) from wiring harness. This motor and wiring harness will be not be used and can be removed if desired (this process is explained in step 2a)

2a) Remove current CLS (if fitted) by removing entire locking mechanism and extracting via the exterior door handle hole. This mean you must disconnect all link rods already connected to the motor and exterior door handle. You must unscrew the door lock (hits the striker to keep the door shut) for this part. Extract the ensemble through the cut-out in the door where the exterior handle goes. Installation is reversal of the removal procedure.

3) Find anchoring spot for new Remote Central Locking (RCL) motor. For this, the supplied mounting brackets can be useful. Secure locking unit to door with small white loop facing north.

4) Position supplied Link Rod so that it reaches Link Rod connected to lock snipper button. Once desired placement is achieved, slide supplied link rod connector over supplied link rod and secure to existing snipper button link rod using screws supplied with connector. Tighten firmly as these link rods can move when Lock/Unlock functions are used.

**NOTE- Make sure both RCL motor and Lock snipper button are in "lock" function before fastening link rods together**

5) Test effectiveness by temporarily connecting RCL motor to receiver box and connecting to battery. Use Lock/Unlock functions several times to ensure that locking mechanism is secured properly. Close door, and use lock function. Try to open door to test. If door still opens when Lock function is used, the link rods are either not properly adjusted or the snipper button link rod is flexing. Find less flexible spot to secure link rods together. The same problem may present itself with the Unlock function where the locking mechanism locks, but does not unlock afterwards.

6) Repeat procedure for Left Front Passenger door. No wiring needs to be undertaken just yet.

Rear Door Installation.

1) Remove door trims remembering not to neglect door handles and window winder (If Fitted).

2) Rear does not require that lock be removed, as it is well out of the way.

3) Find anchoring point for RCL motor on rear door, with the white loop facing west, so that, when looking directly at the door, the motor can push the lock snipper button left/right. Make sure the motor is placed so that adequate room is left for the link rod supplied with the kit to move freely.

4) Slip the bent end of the supplied link rod into the white loop found at the top of the RCL motor. The other end will slide into the link rod connector supplied with the RCL kit and will be secured much in the same way the front was.

**NOTE- Make sure both RCL motor and Lock snipper button are in "Lock" position before fastening link rods together**

5) Test effectiveness by temporarily connecting RCL motor to receiver box and connecting to battery. Use Lock/Unlock functions several times to ensure that locking mechanism is secured properly. Close door, and use lock function. Try to open door to test. If door still opens when Lock function is used, the link rods are either not properly adjusted or the snipper button link rod is flexing. Find less flexible spot to secure link rods together. The same problem may present itself with the Unlock function where the locking mechanism locks, but does not unlock afterwards.

6) Repeat Procedure for opposite rear door.

Wiring:

**NOTE: starting from drivers door.**

1) Remove lower dash panels by locating and removing screws. Remove trim panels below centre console. Remove glove box and black backing to expose mechanicals behind dashboard.

2) Remove rubber wiring covers from inside door jams from the chassis and from the door itself. This must be done to pass the wire through to the motor.

3) Place RCL receiver under Transmission Control Unit, located behind Radio and below Air Conditioning unit. Insert wiring connection from wiring kit into receiver and pass master cylinder and right rear passenger slave wires behind carpet ending, found behind the accelerator and brake pedals. Pass this wire behind fuse box. This where the wires are separated. Rear passenger wires (Usually only two) are put aside and Master Cylinder wires are now main concern. Push these wires through hole exposed by removing rubber cover but using a pen or similar. Once wires are visible on the exterior, pull out until wires are fully extended and cannot be pulled any more. Push through rubber cover using pen or similar.

4) Once wires are visible at end of rubber wire cover, pull out and fully extend them, inserting them into hole left by the cover on the door. Replace rubber cover.

5) Wires may need to be adjusted for length, otherwise, simply match wire colours from receiver box to wire colours on master cylinder. That's the drivers' door done.

6) For rear right passenger, unscrew front kick panel, door scuff panel and B Pillar cover to expose plastic wire guard on floor. Simply lift carpets and pass wire through wire guard for more peace of mind (just in case they get nicked or cut under carpet). Pull wires out once they have reached B Pillar.

7) Remove rubber wire cover from B Pillar and Rear door with a flat blade screwdriver. Push wire through hole in B Pillar and through rubber wire cover as well as rear door. Replace Rubber wire cover. Connect wires by joining colours exactly. Make sure not to reverse wires, as this will also reverse the operation of locking cylinder.

8) Front passenger door is easier. Take slave wires for front passenger and left rear passenger (four wires) and pass them behind dashboard, in front of A/C unit where the front passengers' doors' rubber wire cover will have to be removed to pass wires through. Much the same process as the Driver door with the passing of wires and connection.

9) Left rear passengers' door is a repeat of Right rear passenger's door.

Making It Live!

1) Locate (+) wire from radio, which on stock 2nd Gen Magnas, should be Red/Green in colour. Cut connector from positive terminal on receiver box and place into "Wire Splice" or "Wire Tap". Use pliers to tap into positive wire and transfer current to the receiver box.

2) Locate (-) wire from Cigarette lighter, which should be black in colour. Repeat procedure for negative as done with positive.

3) Test by using both Lock/Unlock functions. Make any last adjustments needed before replacing all door, dash and kick trim panels.

Upon completion, you should have a remote central locking system that looks as though it was standard equipment.

Thanks,
-Ian

s_tim_ulate
26-06-2007, 07:50 PM
Cheers...

If someone ever does this can they take some pics and add them to here?

Peace

Tim

Doug
27-06-2007, 03:32 PM
!!WARNING- Make sure to always leave your key elsewhere, whether it is inside your home or in your pocket when carrying out this exercise!!



Sounds like a word from the wiselol

gremlin
27-06-2007, 08:39 PM
If your car is already fitted with central locking (ie TS Magna)... why wouldnt you just get an alarm system that can control it... why would u rip out the current central locking system and replace it with an aftermarket one?

genuine interest here as ill be attempting to fit remote central locking in a TS exec very soon

parker
27-06-2007, 08:42 PM
My TR had factory remote central locking............but its really REALLY old school Infrared Remote styles.

Lucifer
27-06-2007, 11:17 PM
If your car is already fitted with central locking (ie TS Magna)... why wouldnt you just get an alarm system that can control it... why would u rip out the current central locking system and replace it with an aftermarket one?

genuine interest here as ill be attempting to fit remote central locking in a TS exec very soon
I had to do it, didn't have a remote or functional central locking solenoids in my car, its pretty easy to do and stuff, I really have to redo mine though... wiring is messy :( I didn't even expect my car to even have central locking lol

Mrmacomouto
28-06-2007, 06:20 AM
If your car is already fitted with central locking (ie TS Magna)... why wouldnt you just get an alarm system that can control it... why would u rip out the current central locking system and replace it with an aftermarket one?

genuine interest here as ill be attempting to fit remote central locking in a TS exec very soon

Exactly what I was thinking, a relay here and there and there shouldn't be anything stopping you.

gremlin
02-07-2007, 10:43 AM
Exactly what I was thinking, a relay here and there and there shouldn't be anything stopping you.

well ill be having a go at doing that real soon. ill report back here

Target
24-08-2009, 12:24 PM
Old thread but still useful.
I took pictures when I did mine, this might help some people.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/album.php?albumid=149

ambetone
09-09-2009, 05:34 PM
My TR had factory remote central locking............but its really REALLY old school Infrared Remote styles.

They are easy to upgrade, locking controller is in the drivers side kick trim. You will find Constant, earth and lock / unlock triggers there. They are ground triggered and only require a short pulse. If you need indicator flash / ignition you can find them either at the steering column or a better place is the hazard switch above the radio.

Rod

van0014
03-03-2013, 06:42 PM
There is a way to install these, using the stock door actuators.

All you have to do is isolate only 2 out of four wires (blue/red and blue/black on 2nd gen) from the master lock and wire them to the aftermarket wires. Can be the wires for any of the four actuators. Both systems function happily together.

If you do not isolate the 2 main wires, and just splice the aftermarket wires to them instead, the aftermarket system may not be able to lock/unlock. I have tested this. It tries to, but doesn't quite give enough power.

The only disadvantage is if you leave your keys in the ignition, and lock the car. The drivers door will not unlock itself again. This could be fixed by using diodes. I made a diagram to show how. But keep in mind i have not tested it. It may not work.

If you have a stock alarm, it WILL be triggered by the aftermarket system unlocking. To fix this, you need a relay. The relay should be wired in parallel with the master actuator, and it should be connected to the switch under the key barrel. That switch tells the car the key has been used to unlock the car. In 2nd gens, the wires are black, and blue. I forget the stripes on them. But they are very thin wires.

(ignore the diodes and their wires in the diagram. That part is experimental.)
http://www.upurload.com/file.php?name=eff4c51a06aa321aff9ac78ce19df399.png

Parts of the diagram are small. Download it if you want to zoom in.